Thursday, September 30, 2010

Monsoon Trek to Thadiyendamol Peak, Coorg, Karnataka, India

The trek to Thadiyendamol peak is one of the best treks in the state of Karnataka. It is a pleasure to trek this range of the Western Ghats all year round. But, the biggest thrill comes during the peak of the monsoons when everything here is at its liveliest best.


At 5,730 feet above MSL, Thadiyendamol is the highest peak in Coorg (Kodagu) and the second highest in Karnataka. The highest being Mulaiyangiri, which is located in the Chickmagalur district of Karnataka.


There are two popular trekking trails that lead to the Thadiyendamol peak. The shorter trail starts from the Palace Estate in Kakkabe, while the longer trail originates at the Honey Valley Resort.


Personally, I have always preferred to start the trek from Honey valley as the trail passes through dense tropical rainforests that are infested with leeches and provides splendid vistas enroute.


The trail from Honey Valley is much longer and will take at least ten hours for a comfortable trek. In terms of distance, it should be about 27 kilometres for the return journey.


I have trekked to Thadiyendamol many times and have taken various routes. I would start at Honey Valley, take the longer route to the peak and come back from the shorter route through Nalnad Palace in Kakkabe. Sometimes, I would go and come back via the same long route.


There are no trekking permits required for going to Thadiyendamol peak, but please do ensure that you carry all your trash back to civilization.


The trails to Thadiyendamol from Honey Valley go through dense bushes, umpteen number of hills and lush green rainforests. Hence, there is a great chance that you can get lost. Hence, taking a local guide is highly recommended. Honey Valley Resort helps in arranging a local guide for a very reasonable cost.


If you are climbing from the Palace Estate side, then you don’t need a guide as the trail is large and cannot be missed. But, you can always get a local guide if you want to.


While trekking here, do ensure that you trek during daylight hours as wildlife is known to pass through this terrain during night times and the slippery terrain and the mist factor can contribute to slips and falls during night time.


A couple of weeks back is when I trekked to the peak yet again. And since I was planning to climb to Thadiyendamol from the Honey Valley trail, me and my friends made Honey Valley as a base.


We had booked a nice 5 person ethnic style dormitory for the four of us. An overnight Volvo bus from Bangalore brought us to Virajpet in the wee hours of the morning and a local bus brought us to Kabinakkad bus stop at 8 AM.


From here, we trekked the steep ascent of three kilometres to Honey Valley, checked into our room, freshened up, had breakfast and started our trek to Thadiyendamol.  To give us company, 2 mutts belonging to Honey Valley joined us.


One of the younger mutts wore a shiny black coat and was called ‘Gundu’. The other older mutt seemed to be limping and returned a short while into the trek. Gundu kept us company throughout. In fact, he was instrumental in chasing away the cows and buffalos which seemed be grazing in large numbers on our trekking trail.


About an hour into the trek, we were joined by our local trekking guide, Mani, who cuts grass and does a little of farming to earn his two square meals.


The initial part of the trek was a steady climb. We ascended rapidly and arrived at an elevation of 4,800 feet. By this time, most of us had a lot of leeches in our boots and we could feel it, but instead of taking them out, we preferred to soak in the natural vistas and breathe in the fresh air.


During this initial climb, we saw a couple of waterfalls that looked milky white against the dense greenery. Soon, the rains began. What started initially as a persistent drizzle, turned into a heavy downpour in an hour.


This reduced our speed as the terrain became slippery, the cliff edges became threatening, visibility became weak and the ground turned slushy. And the best part is that the rains brought out the best in the leeches.


But, ain’t this the best part about a monsoon trek? Most of us were soaked to the bone, were tired and were getting bitten by leeches, but, we were truly lost in the fresh green views that were being presented to us in the rains.


During all this, we somehow managed to get our cameras out and capture these images in our lens. It was during lunch time I guess, we were all hungry, but we had to cross a dense slushy tropical rainforest to cross the fence to the Thadiyendamol range.


This slushy zone, in my mind was the highlight of the trek. The entire slushy trail was covered in thick bushes and small pink flowers were in full bloom on all these bushes. This was a very spectacular sight. Our guide Mani told us that these Pink flowers bloom only during the monsoons.


The bushes were so dense that we had to cut our way through to the other side, which led to a small rain pond, where we cleaned ourselves of the hundreds of leeches that had stuck onto us and proceeded to have a much required snack break.


During our entire trek, we followed a simple philosophy. It was to take it easily, but steadily on the grasslands, but rush through the leech infested dense tropical rainforests. And to enable this, we took short breathers before all the rainforest stretches.


It would be like we walk over a hill through grasslands, descend into the heart of the rainforests and then ascend from the other side of the rainforest to the other hill. We did this many a time during our entire trek. In fact, if I remember right, we crossed seven different hills.


This according to me is what makes the Thadiyendamol trek so enticing, memorable and challenging. I know a lot of people who have got freaked out in these rainforest stretches.


Finally, after about seven gruelling hours of trekking, we made it to the Thadiyendamol peak to have our lunch. We couldn’t do anything else as the entire place was covered in clouds and mist. Thankfully, the rains had taken a break.


Post our late lunch, we descended back through the rainforests to join a different trail, which was much larger and heads towards the Palace Estate in Kakkabe. This trail was much easier and safer than the one we had just come on. But, it did not provide picturesque views either. Instead it was a fast and steep descent through forests on either side, thus blocking all views.


Upon reaching the Palace Estate, one can stop by and explore the 18th century Nalnad Palace, which is quite popular in Coorg. Even we stopped by and explored this palace before heading back to Honey Valley making this day a very memorable day in Coorg for us.

21 comments:

  1. awesome! wish i could go there too,but then, i am no good at trekking, so i have to be satisfied with seeing the place through your pics.... thanks so much!

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  2. The pleasure is mine Anu! You should definitely go to the place, Honey Valley, with its coffee estates and brilliant birdwatching opportunities. Most of the scenic spots are just a small walk away. I guess you are good at walking :-)

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  3. Great trek you had, interesting shots too.
    The monsoon bugs aren't very friendly.

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  4. Breathtaking beauty! I would love to go there one day!!

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  5. Thank you Indrani. The monsoon bugs may not be friendly, but they are fairly innocuous. I guess they are just doing what is natural to them :-)

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  6. And let me know when you plan to come here. I would love to be your host or at least help you out thoroughly.

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  7. nice trek... are there any wild animals still inhabiting the forest....

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  8. Yes Flip, very much. During cloudy days and in night times, you can spot the Gaur (Indian bison) and some predators, though not that easily.

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  9. i m good at walking, but no good at walking long distances, esp over hills.... had a muscle sprain a few years back, and since then, my ankles swell up at the slightest exertion! but this place looks really interesting.. and a trip to coorg is long overdue!

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  10. I am sure you know what's best for you. :-)

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  11. Wow ! I am really surprised by your treks photographs. Its all looks so nice and beautiful. Karnataka is a awesome city for treck. There are so many beautiful places available at Karnataka.

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  12. Yes, Karnataka is a beautiful place indeed!

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  13. v r planning to visit coorg in august (i.e in the modst of monsoon season)..is it advisable to visit coorg in monsoon season?

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  14. Hi Anudeep,

    Monsoons are actually the best time to visit Coorg. Everything around you is dressed in fresh green and nothing like sipping a cuppa local coffee in the nippy weather of coorg. It will be raining heavily, so do remember to carry our rain wear. And if you plan to head into the forests and into the coffee estates, then do remember to carry some leech repellant (salt, snuff, tobacco, castor oil, lime concentrate, deoderant, etc.)

    I am sure you will have a fabulous experience....

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  15. thanq subramanian..i'm a big fan of ur website..i drop in very frequently so see the pics u uploaded...

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  16. Since v r planning to visit coorg in monsoon season, will the weather permit us to go for sight-seeing or will it play a spoilsport..v r actually concerned dat too much of downpour may ruin our sight seeing program since this coorg is nestled in western ghats which receive heavy rainfall during south-west monsoons..

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  17. v r planning to stay in coorg for 2days(2 nights and 1 n half day to be precise)..so could u plz suggest us the places which r very worth watching n which fit into our 2days holiday program...v have already  drawn up a list of places to visit in and around coorg...suggest a place(town) for us to stay (apart from madikeri town) from where all the sight-seeing locations in coorg wud be near

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  18. It will be raining. Heavy or not will depend on your luck. But, if you have proper rain gear, you should be able to continue with your sightseeing.

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  19. Coorg is a massive area. Hence, in your given time frame, you cannot cover most of the places. Hence, you can choose from any of the below options.

    Option 1: Find homestays at Kutta or Siddapur...Do Irpu falls, Nagarhole/Kabini National Park, Coffee estates.

    Option 2: Stay at Kushalnagar or nearby...do Bylaguppe, Harangi Dam, Talacauvery and Dubare Forests

    Option 3: Stay at any of the homestays close to Virajpet...do Thadiyendamol trek, Kakkabe Palace, Iguthappa temple, Chalavara Falls and even Siddapur if you want to

    Option 4: Stay at homestays outside Madikeri...do Hebbe Falls, Madikeri fort and palace and nearby coffee estates

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  20. I am happy to know that you like my website. It is people like you who egg me on to keep writing and sharing my experiences :-)

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  21. It's amazing places... What a beauty.. I never seen this type of amazing places in my whole life.. Thanks for this post,it's really a awesome post...

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