Courtallam: The Herbal Bath Holiday Destination of Tamil Nadu

A head massage with sesame oil followed by a dunk under the waterfall. You come out of the waterfall to catch your breath. You head back into the waterfall for a few more dunks while coming out periodically to catch your breath. Once you can’t take it no more, you wipe yourself dry and revel in the glorious after effects of a herbal waterfall bath. Pretty soon, you start to feel cold and your stomach begins to grumble. That is when you have Chukku Kaapi, the local concoction of herbs, spices and coffee to instantly refresh you. You then head home or to the nearest restaurant to have a delicious meal. Pretty soon you find yourself drifting into la la land and when you wake up a good many hours later, you feel like you are reborn. This is in essence a rural waterfall holiday in the deep south of Tamil Nadu.

I call it the herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu as the waters of the waterfall stream traverse through forests of medicinal plants and herbs before they tumble down on to your head.



This herbal waterfall holiday destination is the village of Courtallam, that is located in the Tenkasi village of Tamil Nadu. It has 4 waterfalls, each of which attract visitors by the drove for waterfall baths. The most remote one is called Old Courtallam falls. The largest and the most popular one is called Main falls. And the other two are known as Five falls and Tiger falls.

The experience is more or less the same at each of these waterfalls, though different people prefer different ones. Personally, I like the one at Old Courtallam. Not only is it a bit remote, but it enjoys a great location with paddy fields, palm trees, forests and mountains.



The Courtallam waterfall holiday is not just about the waterfall, but it is about the exotic local fruits that you can sample here (mangosteen, star fruit, nongu and padhani, grapefruit, etc.), the local drinks (chukku kaapi, padhani with nongu, nannari sharbat, etc.), the drive through the lush countryside, the pristine mountain forest atmosphere with terrestrial birds and animals and the full body massage services. Of course, the waterfall is the highlight and its effect cannot be expressed in words as one has to experience it for themselves in person.



If relaxation is on your mind and if you prefer rustic locations, then the herbal waterfall holiday destination of Courtallam is bound to appeal to you at multiple levels. It has been my go-to waterfall destination for close to four decades. Locals living nearby are bound to echo my sentiments. You have to indulge in it to understand its healing effects. Do add this place to your bucket-list and visit during your next holiday.



Things to remember while bathing at Courtallam:

1) There are metal barricades separating women and men bathing areas under the waterfall. Swim wear is usually not preferred here. Locals usually jump into the waterfall fully clothed. Men remove their Tshirts and shirts before getting into the waterfall.

2) There are a few changing rooms for women, but nothing for men.

3) A few toilets are available, though they might not be very clean.

4) Please do not use any soap or shampoo while bathing here as the down stream water is used by villages for drinking purposes. At best, use natural oils and natural shikakai if you have to use something.

5) Grip the metal barricades while bathing under the waterfall. I have known a lot of people lose their footing and hurt themselves.

6) Hold onto your gold jewellery if you happen to wear them while getting under the waterfall. The sheer force of water is known to loosen jewellery and it may go with the water current never to be found again.

7) Beware of the monkeys if you happen to have some food in your hands or in your bag. They are known to be greedy.



Best season to visit:

The waterfalls of Courtrallam carry water both during the SW and the NE monsoons. The best months to visit would be July, August, November and December. Water will be a bit cold during the winter months. Other months may or may not have water as it would depend on exact onset and strength of monsoons.

The waterfalls would attract the Sabarimala crowds during the winter months.

Waterfall timings:

The waterfall is open from sunrise to sunset, though on some days, the local administration puts floodlights and allows people to bathe even in the night.



How to reach there:

Courtallam is to the west of Tenkasi towards the mountains. There are 4 waterfalls: Old falls, tiger falls, main falls and five falls. All of these are located close to each other, though the old falls is set a bit in the countryside.

The nearest airports would be Tuticorin, Thiruvanthapuram and Madurai. You can choose from any of these 3 depending on your starting point.

The nearest railway station would be Tenkasi, located about 10 kms away.

The nearest bus station would also be Tenkasi.

If you are traveling from Kerala, you can take the deviation to Courtrallam from Shencottai.

If you are traveling from Tirunelveli or Rajapalayam side, you can take the deviation to Courtrallam from Tenkasi.

If you wish for some beautiful countryside views and are traveling from Tirunelveli, then take this route Tirunelveli –> Chermahadevi –> Kallidaikurichi –> Ambasamudram –> Alwarkurichi –> Kadayam –> Thiraviya Nagar (take left after here) –> Old Courtrallam –> Courtrallam town.



Where to stay:

There are a lot of guest houses and resorts located in the vicinity of Courtallam. While some of them are located closer to the city, there are a few that are set right in the middle of pristine countryside.

If you prefer to stay in the city, you should have Tenkasi or Tirunelveli as your base.

If you prefer staying by the beach, try the properties located on Varkala’s cliff beach or the ones near Kollam.



Where to eat:

There are shacks next to the waterfall serving you fresh catch of the day, chukku coffee, simple meals and fresh fruits. These should be enough to curb your hunger pangs after your waterfall bath.

If you want a nicer place or a restaurant with much better options, you should head to Tenkasi town. If you happen to be returning to Tirunelveli, then you can either have a wide variety of food at Ambasamudram or at Tirunelveli.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Kasi Viswanathar temple: 13th century temple located at Tenkasi that is famous for its large gopurams

2) Thenmala forest and palaruvi falls: Offbeat nature and wildlife getaway

3) Ponmudi: The offbeat hill station of Kerala with a 360 degree panorama

4) Kappil beach: Sandy beauty hemmed in between the sea and the backwaters

5) Varkala beach: The stunning cliff beach of Kerala where you can wash away all your sins

6) Papanasanathar temple: 1000 year old temple by the river Thamarabharani where you can wash away all your sins

7) Nellaiappar temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder

8) Kalakadu Mundanthurai tiger reserve: Rich hidden wildlife getaway

9) Manimuthar falls and Manimuthar Dam: A large dam and beautiful waterfalls surrounded by pristine forests of the Western Ghats

10) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep South

11) Agastyar Falls: A gorgeous waterfall on the Thamarabharani river

12) Lesser known mountain railways of Kerala: A treat for nature lovers

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Nongu and Padhani: Best cooling summer drink packed with many health benefits

The sun is beating really hard on us. This could be one of those really hot summers. Staying cool is of paramount importance. Modern day drinks available in the super markets are loaded with sugar and artificial chemicals and don’t cool you down properly. If you wish to cool yourself down using a traditional summer fruit drink, then read on as this article is just for you.

Most of us know of the health and cooling benefits of the electrolyte packed fresh tender coconut water. But, did you know that there is something else available in the tropics that not only cools you down impressively, but is also super delicious. I am referring to a combination of a fruit and a drink made from the sap of the tree. This combo is called Nongu and Padhani or Nongu and Pathani in Tamil.



This fruit and sap combo drink is loaded with nutrients such as calcium, phosphorus, zinc, vitamins B and C and other minerals and natural sugars. This delicious summer drink is extremely low in calorific value and hence perfect for diabetics and for all those who are watching their weight, but still wish to cool down this summer. This lip smacking drink is also said to be immensely good for your skin and stomach.



The palmyra fruit (nongu) is part of the palmyra palm that grows abundantly in the hot and dry tropical regions of South and South East Asia. The Tirunelveli district in Southern Tamil Nadu is one of the best places to find this tree, fruit and drink and as it is my homeland, I have had the privilege of having this summer drink a good many times. The tree sap is collected every morning at dawn, diluted with water or palm fruit juice and then served with fresh palm fruit in a fresh palm leaf. No plastic, no paper cups, no straws. Everything is bio-degradable. In fact, they will turn into great compost for future plants to grow. The only thing to keep in mind is that as the day goes by, the tree sap starts fermenting. While fresh and mildly fermented are good for your body and help in reducing the body heat, the more fermented one can make you feel tipsy. Hence, make sure to ask the person about when the tree sap was collected and try to have this drink before 11 AM or latest by 12 noon to ensure that it hasn’t gotten very fermented.



Usually, 6 fleshy fruit pods (from 2 whole palm fruits) and 2 glasses of drink should cost you INR 60 in the countryside and could be a bit pricier in cities. This drink works pretty quickly. Within a matter of 15 minutes, you will start feeling its cooling effects and that is when 40 degrees or more heat will feel like 30 degree Celsius. This is my trick to carry on with my daily outdoor lifestyle during summer without letting the heat affect or bother me. What is your summer trick?

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Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve and its mighty waterfalls...

An event of days gone by...last December during my solo all india motorcycle journey...
Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve, nestled in the South West of the Western Ghats is located in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu. It is home to some famous rivers (Thamarabarani, Manimuthar), waterfalls (Courtallam, Vana Theertham, Agastyar, Manimuthar), dams (Karaiyar, Manimuthar, Papanasam) and hydro-electric power plants. Even my ancestral home at Kallidaikurichi falls in its fringe boundaries and close to the national park's buffer zone.
 
It was one fine balmy morning and I had ridden from Kanyakumari to Kallidaikurichi. Upon reaching my ancestral home, I got to know that most of the rivers and waterfalls were in full spate due to the excess rainfall this area received due to the North East monsoons. Some areas were cordoned off to prevent citizens from water related dangers. However, this got all me all pumped up as I had never witnessed these rivers or waterfalls in full spate. So, I proceeded to explore this natural event in the company of my uncle who expressed similar interests too.


First, we proceeded to the Manimuthar dam forest entrance, got our forest permits done and proceeded to climb up through the Kalakkad forests through completely desolate roads. We sighted a lot of peafowl on our way up. Peafowl survives in huge numbers in this wildlife sanctuary. When we finally reached the Manimuthar falls, we were astonished at the thundering sound the waterfall created. On a normal day, the waterfall would fall onto the rocks below, but on that day, the waterfall seemed to be falling about 20 m to its front, straight into a large swimming pool, if I may. This also turned out to be our breakfast stop and we had some nice home-made idlis, searing gunpowder and chutney.
Next, we made our way to the Courtallam waterfalls for a midday shower. Again, in full flow, it was scary to enter into the falls, but we somehow managed to squelch out some courage. Though, the courage couldn't last for long, once we felt boulders of water hitting our backs without giving us a moment to breathe. After our super human shower, we proceeded to witness the beauty of the Agastyar waterfalls at Papanasam (the top left picture). The entire 10 km road that leads to this waterfall was blocked citing safety reasons. All we could was stand in awe and admire this natural wonder. Finally, we made our way to the Karaiyar dam to see if the boat service to the Vana theertham waterfalls was functioning, but it looked like even it was closed due to the heavy rains. We sulked on hearing the news, but drew some happiness by biting into yummy and delicious raw mangoes. On our way back through the forest roads, we spotted a large group of Hanuman Langaurs enjoying themselves.

Some day, I will go on a tiger exploration drive in this dense forest - Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve.
To see India through the eyes of a motorcyclist's lens, visit the album below.

my solo all-india motorcycle journey

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Monsoon in the Western Ghats - My ancestral town "Kallidaikurichi"

Back in July this year, I had been to my ancestral town, Kallidaikurichi, to spend a week and enjoy the monsoons. Now, this town, Kallidaikurichi, which literally means "in the midst of hills" is located on the leeward (eastern) side of the Western Ghats in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu. A quaint town with a rich history, Kallidaikurichi is known for its famous temples, the famous Kannadigan irrigation canal, the Thamaraparani river and the famous waterfalls (Courtallam, Agastyar, Papanasam, Vana Theertham and Manimuthar) that are situated close by.


As is the case with me, I set about exploring these beautiful surroundings yet again. Took a trip to the famous tourist town of Courtallam and visited the Old Courtallam falls, New Courtallam falls and Five falls. Since these waterfalls are seasonal and this happened to be the monsoon season, all these places were lively with tons of tourists thronging to visit these falls. There were scores of make shift shacks selling goods from ayurveda massages, rare mountain fruits to hot piping tea/coffee and snacks.


These waterfalls originate in the Western ghats and are believed to carry medicinal properties owing to the medicinal/herbal terrain they traverse and tradition beckons one to take such a medicinal shower. And I kept up with tradition! Lathered in sesame oil from head to toe and after a brief exposure to the sun, I went into the falls to feel rocks of water hit me and take me to a world of bliss sans any pain. When I came out of the experience, all the oil from my body had disappeared and that too without any soap or shampoo. Now, tradition also beckons you to eat a whole-hearted meal after your waterfall experience and succumb to your sleeping senses. That's exactly what I did when I took a bus back to my ancestral home.


The next day was Aadi Ammavasay (No moon day in the Indian Lunar Calendar month), an auspicious day to take a dip in the waters of the Thamarabarani river at Papanasam and wash away all your sins. Papanasam, in sanskrit, literally means to destroy your sins. Though, I have been to Papanasam many times before, I have never done so on this auspicious day and was pleasantly surprised to see the entire river bank swarming with people taking dips and offering their prayers. I joined this large group of people, took a dip in the holy waters and offered my prayers.


The rest of the week was spent watching nature's beauty offered free of cost at this quaint little town. Be it lush green freshly sown paddy fields, views of the Western Ghats, amazing bird life, dip in the Thamarabarani river or a swim in the Kannadigan irrigation canal, they were all a treat to my senses.


My bird watcher's instinct moved into overdrive mode when I spotted a couple of white breasted kingfishers and little cormorants catching their prey from the Kannadigan irrigation canal that runs behind my ancestral home. I was able to spot Indian Pond Heron, Large Egret, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Black Ibis, Little Cormorant and White Breasted Kingfisher in the nearby paddy fields. All of these were food-spotting in their own unique ways. I spotted some more terrestrial birds, but they were too far away for me to recognize.

An entertaining monsoon week this was for me at my ancestral home town in the Western Ghats!!

The complete photo album can be viewed by clicking below.

Monsoon in the Western Ghats

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