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Wednesday, October 16, 2024

Mekkarai: One of Tamil Nadu’s Prettiest Villages

Road that leads to Adavinainar Dam near Mekkarai in the Tenkasi district of Tamil Nadu

It commands a spectacular panoramic view of the Western Ghats. It is home to lush paddy fields, coconut palms and orchards of other tropical fruits. It is here that the mountain top and the clouds merge into one. It receives both the monsoons of India. It is one of Tamil Nadu’s prettiest villages. I am talking about Mekkarai, the surreal village located on the border of Tamil Nadu Kerala and that is part of the ecosystem that connects Shendurney wildlife sanctuary with Konni reserve forest.

The magical land of Mekkarai in the Tenkasi district of Tamil Nadu

Imagine this view…lush green or golden paddy fields (depending on maturity of crop) swaying in the winds that are blowing from the west, a consistent drizzle in the air, dense jungle views in the yonder and dark monsoon clouds kissing the mountain top. This is the view that nature presents to you as soon as you enter the tiny village of Mekkarai that is located in the Tenkasi district of Tamil Nadu. In the middle of the village lie the homes and the paddy fields around them, towards the mountain side are mountain streams, waterfalls and umpteen scenic locations and to one side of the village lies the Adavinainar dam that commands stunning views of the surrounding Western Ghat mountains.



If you head to the west of the village, you will ascend and hit the forest road that connects it to the temple town of Achankovil in Kerala. To its east, lie Elathur and Tenkasi and to its south lie the towns of Shenkottai and the waterfall holiday destination of Courtallam. In simple words, Mekkarai is home to beauty and is surrounded by more natural beauty. It makes for a fantastic nature getaway in rural Tamil Nadu with its scenic picnic spots, pretty views, many waterfalls, winding roads and forests. It is literally a slice of heaven during the South West Monsoon.

A motorcycle trip to the surreal paddy world of Mekkarai in Tamil Nadu

Best season to visit:

Mekkarai looks its best during the monsoon season between June and October. During this season, there are on and off drizzles, a strong and cool breeze blowing through the region, the paddy fields are shining in the sunshine and the surrounding mountains are all green with dense monsoon clouds over them. The other months of the year are also beautiful. January to March is cool and radiant, while October to December can be wet with copious rainfall. April and May can be much cooler than the other parts of the region.

How to reach there:

If you are traveling from Konni, take the forest route via Achankovil to reach Mekkarai. This route also happens to be the most scenic.

If you are traveling from Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam or Punalur, take the road via Punalur –> Vettithitta –> Cherukadavu Dam –> Chempanaruvi Falls –> Achankovil –> Mekkarai.

If you are traveling from Thenmala, take the road via Ottakal –> Edamon –> Valacode –> Cherukadavu dam –> Chempanaruvi Falls –> Achankovil –> Mekkarai.

If you are traveling from Shenkottai, Tenkasi or Tirunelveli direction, take the road via Shenkottai to Elathur –> Panboli –> Mekkarai.

Scenic pit stop at Mekkarai, Tamil Nadu

Where to stay:

There are a few resorts and homestays in and around Mekkarai that offer simple accommodation with the best views. For a diverse range of decent hotels, head to Tenkasi, about 17 kms away.

If you prefer staying amidst nature, try the resorts in and around Courtallam, the accommodation inside Thenmala Eco Zone (Kerala) or the forest accommodation inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve.

For luxurious options, head to Tirunelveli in Tamil Nadu or Kollam/Thiruvananthapuram in Kerala.

Where to eat:

The nearest place to eat would be Shencottai. There are restaurants that serve basic tiffin and meals here. For more diverse options, Tenkasi would be your nearest hub.

The road leading to the paddy heaven called Mekkarai in the Tenkasi district of Tamil Nadu

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Mekkarai to Achankovil to Konni: Heavenly motorcycling route through pristine forest

2) Kutralam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu

3) Sunderapandiapuram: Of lovely brahmin agraharam houses, sunflower fields, windmills and mountain views

4) Puliyarai view point: Scenic pit stop on the Tenkasi – Kerala highway

5) Sivasailam Temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats

6) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East monsoon in India

7) 13th century Kasi Visvanathar temple at Tenkasi

8) Manalar Falls: The gorgeous forest waterfall perfect for a family getaway

9) Kumbhavurutty Falls: Pristine jungle waterfall in the middle of dense forest

10) Thenmala Forest: Offbeat nature and wildlife getaway

11) Vintage Pathimoonu Kannara Bridge: Colonial charm of the Indian Railways

12) Punalur Suspension Bridge: Historical gem of Kerala

13) Lesser Known Kerala Mountain Railways: Treat for nature lovers

14) Achankovil Saastha Temple: That happy Lord Ayyappa in the middle of pristine jungle

15) Palaruvi Falls: Kerala’s herbal waterfall that drops like milk from the sky

16) Thenmala Dam: A monsoon pit stop view

17) Aryankavu Saastha Temple: Ancient temple located in the sacred forests of the Western Ghats

18) Rosemala: Spectacular view point of the Thenmala reservoir

19) Kudrevetty: The gorgeous windy station of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

20) Manimuthar Falls: The herbal waterfall inside a tiger reserve

21) Agastyar Falls: A gorgeous waterfall on the Thamirabharani river

22) Manjolai: The offbeat hill station of Tamil Nadu

23) Nalumukku: The wettest place of India during the North East monsoon

24) Kakkachi: The highest point inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

25) Scenic Iron Bridge of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve: Pristine nature overloaded

26) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep south

27) Cycling through the backyards of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

28) Mannarkovil Rajagopalaswamy Temple: Magnificent 10th century temple with an ashtanga vimana

29) 10th century Brahmadesam Kailasanathar Temple: Lesser known architectural marvel of South India

30) 1000 year old Papanasanathar Temple: Where you can wash all your sins away

31) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the saaral season

32) Iruttu Kadai Halwa: Icon of Tirunelveli

33) Nellaiappar Temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder

34) Pattamadai Pai: GI tagged beautiful handwoven mats from a tiny Tamil Nadu village

35) Thamirabharani river delta: A motorcycle route full of rustic gorgeousness

36) 10th Century Valiswara Temple at Thiruvaliswaram: Hidden Chola gem in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu

37) Tiruchendur Murugan Temple: Sea Shore Magic

38) Kallidaikurichi to Manimuthar Dam: A top scenic and rustic cycling route

39) Garuda Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi

40) Festival of Thiruvathirai from a traditional Tamil Nadu village

41) The festival of Karthigai Deepam from a traditional Tamil Nadu village

42) The exotic tropical fruit shops of Puliyarai

43) Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand cultural spectacle in rural Tamil Nadu

44) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature

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Wednesday, October 09, 2024

Veetikunnu Island Nest: Living on an Island inside a Tiger Reserve

Gorgeous sunset colours over Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

This jungle property offers the perfect mix of pristine nature and digital detox. There is no property within 50 sq km of it. In fact, to get to the nearest human civilization, you will have to travel an hour by boat. It is in the middle of a tiger reserve and is surrounded by a massive reservoir. I am talking about the Veetikunnu Island Nest, a property run and managed by the Kerala forest department. It is in the middle of the Parambikulam reservoir inside the Parambikulam tiger reserve in Kerala. The island is called Veetikunnu Island and it can be only accessed by boat. It is surrounded by huge mountains of the Western Ghats and a lot of wild animals and birds frequent this place.



Wild animals swim the waters of the Parambikulam reservoir to come and graze here. Elephants, gaurs and spotted deer are often seen here. During the dry months, when the water levels recede, the island is connected to other parts of the jungle through a narrow land mass. This ensures excellent migration of wild animals to the island during the dry season.

Parambikulam Tiger Reserve view from Veetikunnu Island, Kerala

The island is special and picturesque and one will fall in love with it right from the time they spot it from the boat. The island is not more than four square kilometers and it mainly consists of bamboo forests, though in the middle of the island, you will spot Arjuna, rosewood, sandalwood and many other local tree varieties. A steep walk from the boat mooring point will take you to the top of the island where the property is located. Once you cross a trench that is there to protect you from the elephants, you are inside the property. From here, you can see the vast Parambikulam reservoir while listening to the chirps of the birds. There is hardly any civilization nearby and you and your group will have the entire tiger reserve to yourselves here.

Elephants at Veetikunnu Island, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

The only way around the island is on foot. You will have to negotiate the sharp bamboo thickets and steep terrain for most of the walk, but once you reach the other side of the island, the terrain flattens out. Here, the bamboo forest gets denser and this is where the elephants hang out along with the gaurs, deer, crocodiles and other wild animals. The entire trek around the Veetikunnu island is eventful as you keep seeing animals and birds. Once you are out in the open grassland, you can see the mountains in the yonder and the vast expanse of water surrounding the island. This stretch along the water is extremely scenic around sunset as that is when the sky changes colours and looks very picturesque.

Golden rays of the morning sun light up Veetikunnu Island, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

Early mornings and late evenings are the best time to spot the wild animals as that is when the weather is pleasant and the mist surrounding the bamboo thicket gives the animals some cover from the predators. This is also the time to be extremely cautious as visibility is quite poor and you might miss out on an elephant foraging in the bamboo thicket next to you. The forest guard will keep you on your toes, but it is best if you stay quiet and keep an eye out too.



Afternoons are perfect for that siesta under a tree near your property and the nights are perfect for that campfire under the starry sky while listening to the croaks of the frogs and the sounds of the cicadas and crickets. The air is absolutely pure here and sometimes when the wind is strong, you can hear the gentle laps of the reservoir water against the shore. Overall, it is a magical location offering a surreal experience.

Checking for elephants behind bamboo thicket at Veetikunnu Island, Kerala

If pristine forest environment and remote location is your thing, then you will definitely love this place. Digital detox is definitely on the cards here and so is an overdose of nature. A perfect combo for a rejuvenating holiday. This place is not for everyone, but if you are willing to rough it out, you are bound to have an absolutely swell experience. As it is not often that you get to stay on an island in the middle of a tiger reserve.

Spotted deer grazing at Veetikunnu Island, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

Things to keep in mind while visiting Veetikunnu Island:

1)There is no cell phone or internet connectivity on the island. Be prepared for a total detox from technology. It is up to you if you wish to spoil the sanctity of the place with music from your mobile phone or portable sound systems. You will miss the natural music of the island if you bring your own music.

2) Electricity can be patchy on the island. If your weather is preceded by harsh weather or rains, be prepared for trouble with the power. Flashlights and/or headlamps will be your best companion here.

3) There is no food ration available on the island. Remember to carry everything from the mainland.

4) There is no hot water facility on this island. If you need hot water to shower, you will need to boil the water in a wooden stove.

5) Elephants visit this island frequently. There are trenches dug around Veetikunnu Island Nest, so that will keep you safe. When exploring the island by foot, stay close to the forest guard and keep an eye out for wild elephants.

6) It is a steep walk from the boat mooring location to the place of accommodation. Do ensure that you are in decent physical condition. Also, do carry a good pair of walking shoes with you or a good pair of walking sandals.

7) There are no mosquitoes on the island, but you can expect a lot of insects and bugs as they will all get attracted to the lights in your accommodation. If you are sensitive to bugs, do carry some form of a bug spray to repel them.

8) If you have young kids in your group, do make sure to keep them close to you at all times.

9) Watch out for crocodiles when you go near the shore.

Crocodile sunbathing on the banks of the Parambikulam Reservoir as seen from Veetikunnu Island during a trek

Best season to visit:

Parambikulam tiger reserve is open all year round. If you can handle the heat, the best time to see wild animals would be the dry months between March and May. If you wish to see the forest in all its lush glory, the post monsoon months from November to February would be ideal. During the other months, you can see animals and birds, but it would depend on your luck. Monsoons happen to be the season of mating, so may be, you will see the birds busier than usual and showing their best plumage.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport and large railway station would be Coimbatore. The nearest large bus station would be Pollachi. From Coimbatore, Parambikulam tiger reserve is about 120 kms away. Only four wheelers are allowed into the forest. It is best to hire your own vehicle to travel to Parambikulam as a lot of different places in Parambikulam are quite far away from each other. The route would be Coimbatore –> Pollachi –> Top Slip (Anaimalai Tiger Reserve) –> Parambikulam Tiger Reserve. If you have booked your accommodation at Parambikulam, you can show that booking voucher at the different forest entry gates. From Parambikulam reservoir, a forest department boat will take you and your belongings to Veetikunnu Island.

Elephants on Veetikunnu Island - charm of Parambikulam Tiger Reserve

Where to eat:

There are no hotels or restaurants on Veetikunnu Island. The people who row your boat and who bring you to Veetikunnu Island from the mainland double up as your cooks. You will have to carry your food rations for the duration of your stay. This includes rice, wheat, lentils, eggs, meat, spices, oil, tea, coffee, milk, sugar, salt, etc. You can either carry the supplies with you from home or buy them at the line of shops near the Parambikulam reservoir. You can share your dietary requirements with the cooks before they prepare the dishes.

Next to a forest watch tower on Veetikunnu Island, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

How to make the bookings:

Bookings can be made easily by visiting the Parambikulam tiger reserve website. The bookings include your accommodation, food, safari, treks and entry fee. Anything additional will be charged. As there is only one place to stay on Veetikunnu Island, it might be prudent to book well in advance, especially if it is the holiday season or the weekend.

The steep walk upto Veetikunnu Island Nest, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

Other places to stay inside Parambikulam Tiger Reserve:

The other places to stay inside Parambikulam tiger reserve are the properties managed by the forest department. These include the tented niche, treetop hut at Thunakadavu, Honeycomb, Peruvari Island Nest and Tented Roost. All these places will provide you with food, though some places might you to carry the food rations as they are totally remote and do not have a functioning kitchen.

Arriving at Veetikunnu Island, Parambikulam, Kerala

Other tourist attractions inside Parambikulam Tiger Reserve:

1) Trekking inside Parambikulam tiger reserve: A thrilling adventure

2) Kannimara Teak: The oldest teak tree in Parambikulam tiger reserve

3) Jungle safari inside Parambikulam tiger reserve

Boat Ride to Veetikunnu Island, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Anaimalai Tiger Reserve: Of elephants, gaurs, tigers and hornbills

2) Puthuthotham Estate: The hidden gem of Anaimalai Tiger Reserve

3) The best place to see the rare Lion Tailed Macaque in the wild

4) Monkey Aliyar Falls, Aliyar Dam, Sholayar Dam and other vast water bodies

5) Pristine Vazhachal rainforest highway: A special road trip hot spot

6) Valparai to Athirapally: One of the top tropical motorcycle routes in India

Going on a wildlife trek inside Veetikunnu Island, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Kerala

7) Poringalkuthu Reservoir: Nestled in the tropical rainforests of Vazhachal, Kerala

8) Athirapally Falls: The Niagara of Kerala

9) Valparai: The unsung hill station of India

10) Nallamudi Poonjolai: Velu saw god there

11) Udumalpet to Munnar forest highway: Perfect route for your Neelakurinji highway

12) Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary: An offbeat wildlife heaven

13) The tea estates of Valparai and around

Elephants grazing at Veetikunnu Island as seen during a wildlife trek on the island

14) Eravikulam National park: The Nilgiri Tahr lives here

15) Mukurthi National Park: A treasure trove of nature near Ooty

16) Emerald Lake: An offbeat gem near Ooty, Tamil Nadu

17) Cauliflower Shola Forests from Mukurthi National Park, Tamil Nadu

18) Nilgiri Mountain Railway: Go for a joy ride on this heritage train

19) Silent valley national park is not really silent

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Wednesday, October 02, 2024

A Traveller's Guide to Authentic Local Experiences in Japan

Mount Fuji view from Arakurayama Sengen Park, Japan

Japan offers a wealth of authentic experiences that allow travellers to immerse themselves in the country's unique culture and traditions. From riding scenic railways through picturesque landscapes to participating in ancient tea ceremonies, this guide explores a range of activities that provide genuine insights into Japanese life.

Ride the Sagano Scenic Railway

Sagano Scenic Railway, Japan

The Sagano Scenic Railway, also known as the Sagano Romantic Train, offers a picturesque journey through the stunning landscapes of western Kyoto.

Passengers can enjoy breath taking views of mountains, forests, and the river along the Hozugawa River gorge from the train's vintage-style cars, including an open-air carriage for an immersive experience.

Ritsurin Garden, one of the most famous strolling gardens in Japan

The train operates from early March to late December each year, with peak seasons during cherry blossom viewing (late March to late April) and autumn foliage (mid-November to early December).

For a complete experience, consider combining the train ride with a Hozugawa River boat cruise for the return journey, offering two unique perspectives of the scenic Arashiyama area, including the stunning Bamboo Grove.

Stay at a Ryokan

Autumn maple leaves at Kongobu-ji on Mount Koya, Japan

Staying at a ryokan offers an authentic Japanese experience, immersing guests in traditional hospitality and culture. These traditional inns typically feature tatami-matted rooms, futon bedding, and communal baths, often supplied by natural hot springs.

A traditional breakfast at a Kyoto ryokan, Japan

Guests are provided with yukata robes to wear during their stay, and are served elaborate kaiseki meals, showcasing seasonal local ingredients. Ryokans are best experienced in rural areas for a more authentic atmosphere, but you can also find the inns in large cities like Kyoto and Tokyo.

Bathe in an Onsen

Kurokawa Onsen roten-buro in Kyushu, Japan

Bathing in an onsen, or Japanese hot spring, is a quintessential experience that offers both relaxation and cultural immersion. These natural hot springs are rich in minerals and believed to have therapeutic properties.

Some of the best places to bathe in an onsen include:

1) Hakone, renowned for its picturesque mountain scenery and diverse onsen options with views of Mount Fuji.

2) Kusatsu in Gunma Prefecture, famous for its yubatake, or hot water field, in the town centre.

3) Noboribetsu, Hokkaido's most famous hot spring resort which features various types of mineral waters and the dramatic ‘Hell Valley’, full of steaming vents.

Many ryokans and hotels in Japan offer both communal onsen baths and rooms with private onsen, providing a more intimate experience.

Participate in a Tea Ceremony

Participating in a Japanese tea ceremony offers a profound insight into Japan's rich cultural heritage. Known as sadō or chanoyu, this ritualistic preparation and consumption of matcha green tea is an art form that emphasizes harmony, respect, purity, and tranquillity.

The ceremony often takes place in a traditional tearoom adorned with tatami mats and seasonal decorations. Guests are usually served Japanese sweets (wagashi) before the tea to complement its bitterness.

One of the best places to participate in a tea ceremony is in the Nishinomaru Garden of Osaka Castle, which is particularly beautiful during the cherry blossom. Alternatively, tea ceremonies in Kyoto’s historic Gion district offer you the chance to be served by geisha, known locally as geiko, and observe their graceful movements.

Visit Famous Temples and Shrines

Torii path with a hanging lantern at Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine, Japan

One of the best reasons to visit Japan is to visit its numerous famous temples and shrines. Some of the most notable are found in Kyoto and include:

1) Fushimi Inari Taisha - This shrine dates back to 711 A.D. and is renowned for its thousands of vermilion torii gates that create a stunning path up the mountain.

2) Kinkaku-ji - Also known as the Golden Pavilion, this temple was originally built as a shogun's villa and is famous for its gold-leaf façade that reflects beautifully in the surrounding pond.

3) Kiyomizu-dera - This iconic Buddhist temple offers breath taking views from its large veranda overlooking the city, especially during cherry blossom and autumn leaf seasons.

Also worth a visit is Sensō-ji, Tokyo's oldest temple, completed in 645. The temple is particularly beautiful at night when illuminated, highlighting its intricate architecture.

Experience a Japanese Festival (matsuri)

Aomori Nebuta Matsuri Festival, Japan

Some of the most renowned Japanese festivals or matsuri, are held in the summer, and include:

1) Gion Matsuri - Held in July in Kyoto, this festival is known for its grand processions of elaborately decorated floats called yamaboko.

2) Aomori Nebuta Matsuri -Taking place from August 2nd to 7th in Aomori, this festival is famous for its giant illuminated floats depicting warriors and mythical figures, accompanied by vibrant music and energetic dancers known as haneto.

3) Tanabata Matsuri - Celebrated from August 6th to 8th, this festival in Sendai is known for its stunning decorations made from colourful paper streamers, and a spectacular fireworks display on the opening night.

Noh performance at a Shinto shrine, Japan

If you’re visiting Japan in winter, it’s also well worth visiting the Sapporo Snow Festival. Held in February, it features impressive snow and ice sculptures displayed throughout Sapporo City in Hokkaido, attracting millions of visitors each year.

Note: The photographs in this article are courtesy of wikipedia.org and have been borrowed under the creative commons license. Each photograph has been linked to its host page on wikipedia.org.

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Sunday, September 29, 2024

Mekkarai to Achankovil to Konni: Heavenly Motorcycling Route through Pristine Forest

The Achankovil forest highway and the criss crossing Achankovil river

This motorcycling route is one of my top motorcycling holiday destinations in India. Now, why do I say that? It is offbeat and consists of a narrow highway that passes through dense jungles. You can come across many wild animals on this route. In fact, it is a common occurrence to see wild elephants standing in the middle of the road here. This route has steep hairpin bends, criss-crosses a meandering river, has many waterfall and river pit stops where you can bathe, enjoy and relax and it is home to some of the most pristine forest in this region.

The offbeat Mekkarai Achankovil Forest Route

The route begins at Mekkarai in Tamil Nadu and goes till Achankovil, about 16 kms away. This short route is for the people who wish for some civilization, decent roads and a safety road. However, for those who do not mind poor road conditions and love adventure, the route begins at Mekkarai and heads all the way to Konni covering a distance of 80 kms. This entire route is part of Konni reserve forest, which connects Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve, Agasthyamalai biosphere reserve and Shendurney wildlife sanctuary with Ranni forest and Periyar tiger reserve. It is one of India’s largest contiguous forests and some of the best preserved tracts of jungle in the Western Ghats.

Mekkarai - Achankovil Forest Highway - An offbeat motorcycling route in South India

The typical route would be:

Mekkarai in Tamil Nadu –> Kerala Forest Check Post –> Manalar Falls –> Kambhavurutty Falls –> Achankovil Saastha Temple –> Chempanaruvi Temple and Falls –> Kalleli Bridge –> Kalleli –> Konni

When you are starting at Mekkarai, you will leave the plains with the paddy field views below and start to rapidly ascend into dense forest. A few hairpin bends will bring you to the Kerala forest check post and from there, the route gets denser and more beautiful. You will ascend initially and then rapidly descend. You will keeping crossing many some jungle streams and water bodies while getting fleeting glimpses of the vast and dense jungle in the yonder. Usually such far away views are rare as the road has dense green cover on both its sides. It is this dense cover that makes this route very difficult to navigate if wild animals happen to be around and therein lies the challenge and adventure.



Once you have completed your descent, you will come across Manalar waterfall, a stunning jungle waterfall with a natural swimming pool. You can park your vehicle here, get yourself the entry ticket and trek a short distance to reach the waterfall. This waterfall has multiple levels and you can choose to climb it, enjoy a refreshing dip and head back to your vehicle. Once you have crossed the Manalar falls parking lot, you will keep crisscrossing the Achankovil river all the way till Konni. The river is not fairly deep, but it can carry a fair amount of water during the rainy season. The next stop is Kambhavurutty falls, another gorgeous forest waterfall that falls from a much higher location and is located deeper in the forest from the main road. You can choose to take another refreshing dip here, before heading to Achankovil Dharma Saastha temple and see the lord’s blessings. Here, Lord Ayyappa is in a happy avatar and it seems like he is enjoying his stay in this pristine forest. When I was traveling this route, even I felt peaceful inside in this unsullied jungle.

Further west from Achankovil lies the Chempanaruvi falls. This waterfall is a bit far away from the main road, but the detour is totally worth it. The road beyond Chempanaruvi temple is in poor condition and you will hardly see any people or vehicles here. There is a very high chance to spot wild animals here. It is best to ride/drive slowly with a keen lookout for animals. This stretch is also the most raw and wild. You continue to cross the meandering Achankovil river at many places before reaching Kalleli bridge and Orekkar waterfall, which is a short deviation away. Once you cross the Njavanal forest check post, you can either take a detour to Chelikkuzhu waterfalls or head straight to Konni city. At Konni, do remember to visit the Konni Eco tourism elephant shelter and museum.

One of the many streams that join the Achankovil river

This route is one of my favourites in the Western Ghats owing to its pristine nature, dense forest cover, wildlife sightings and due to its offbeat nature. The roads are narrow here and it offer the perfect route for a jungle motorcycling experience coupled with scenic pit stops, waterfall and river stops, a temple and so much more. It is one of South Kerala’s hidden gems and one that I would recommend to all nature loving motorcyclists.

Dense jungles as seen from Achankovil forest highway

Timings:

This forest route is open from sunrise to sunset. However, the forest department might allow some vehicles to pass through. If you happen to travel in the early hours of the morning, in the late hours of the evening or during heavy rain or dense mist, be on the lookout for wild animals, especially elephants, as they might be standing next to the road or on the road. If you get to know that elephants have been sighted on the route, travel in a convoy with larger vehicles like jeeps, vans or buses.



Best season to visit:


This route looks the best during the rains when the waterfalls are in full flow, the rivers are in spate and the surroundings are dressed in fresh green. However, monsoon season can also bring along floods, landslides and road closures. One needs to plan for that.

The winter months from December through February are also magical as this is when there is the added cover of mist during the early morning hours and the late evening hours. This adds a whole new dimension to the route.

This forest route is open all year round. Summers can get quite warm and sticky, but it is also the best time to spot wildlife as all wild animals are attracted to the rapidly shrinking water bodies.

Achankovil river and the forest highway

How to reach there:

If you are traveling from Konni, take the forest route to reach Achankovil. The road is narrow and in poor condition.

If you are traveling from Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam or Punalur, take the road via Punalur –> Vettithitta –> Karavoor –> Cherukadavu check dam –> Chempanaruvi Falls –> Achankovil

If you are traveling from Thenmala, take the road via Ottakal –> Edamon –> Valacode –> Cherukadavu check dam –> Chempanaruvi Falls –> Achankovil

If you are traveling from Shenkotta, Tenkasi or Tirunelveli direction, take the road to Elathur –> Mekkarai –> Manalar Falls –> Kambhavurutty Falls –> Achankovil

The scenic Mekkarai to Achankovil Forest Highway

Where to stay:

There are simple guest houses and hotels at Achankovil and these happen to be the best in terms of proximity. For decent hotels, head to Tenkasi.

If you prefer staying amidst nature, try the resorts in and around Courtrallam, the accommodation inside Thenmala Eco Zone (Kerala) or the forest accommodation inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve.

For luxurious options, head to Tirunelveli in Tamil Nadu or Kollam/Thiruvananthapuram in Kerala.

The lush Mekkarai - Achankovil forest highway

Where to eat:

The nearest place to eat would be Achankovil. Here, you can find basic food options next to the temple. The temple also serves delicious vegetarian meals from time to time. For more diverse options, Tenkasi would be your nearest hub. Shenkottai and Aryankavu would also be decent hubs for meals in case you are traveling from either direction.

Achankovil Dharma Saastha Temple surrounded by dense forests and mountains of the Western Ghats

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Kutralam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu

2) Sunderapandiapuram: Of lovely Brahmin agraharam houses, sunflower fields, windmills and mountain views

3) Puliyarai view point: Scenic pit stop on the Tenkasi – Kerala highway

4) Sivasailam Temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats

5) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East monsoon in India

6) 13th century Kasi Visvanathar temple at Tenkasi

7) Mekkarai: One of the prettiest villages of Tamil Nadu

8) Manalar Falls: The gorgeous forest waterfall perfect for a family getaway

Achankovil Forest highway - famous for regular elephant crossings and sightings

9) Kumbhavurutty Falls: Pristine jungle waterfall in the middle of dense forest

10) Thenmala forest: Offbeat nature and wildlife getaway

11) Vintage Pathimoonu Kannara Bridge: Colonial charm of the Indian Railways

12) Punalur Suspension Bridge: Historical gem of Kerala

13) Lesser known Kerala Mountain Railways: Treat for nature lovers

14) Achankovil Saastha Temple: That happy Lord Ayyappa in the middle of pristine jungle

15) Palaruvi Falls: Kerala’s herbal waterfall that drops like milk from the sky

16) Thenmala Dam: A monsoon pit stop view

17) Aryankavu Saastha Temple: Ancient temple located in the sacred forests of the Western Ghats

The walkway to Kambhavurutty Falls, Kerala

18) Rosemala: Spectacular view point of the Thenmala reservoir

19) Kudrevetty: The gorgeous windy station of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

20) Manimuthar Falls: The herbal waterfall inside a tiger reserve

21) Agastyar Falls: A gorgeous waterfall on the Thamirabharani river

22) Manjolai: The offbeat hill station of Tamil Nadu

23) Nalumukku: The wettest place of India during the North East monsoon

24) Kakkachi: The highest point inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

25) Scenic Iron Bridge of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve: Pristine nature overloaded

26) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep south

Manalar Falls - that forest waterfall with a natural swimming pool

27) Cycling through the backyards of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

28) Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy Temple: Magnificent 10th century temple with an ashtanga vimana

29) 10th century Brahmadesam Kailasanathar Temple: Lesser known architectural marvel of South India

30) 1000 year old Papanasanathar Temple: Where you can wash all your sins away

31) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the saaral season

32 Iruttu Kadai Halwa: Icon of Tirunelveli

33) Nellaiappar Temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder

34) Pattamadai Pai: GI Tagged beautiful handwoven mats from a tiny Tamil Nadu village

35) Thamirabharani river delta: A motorcycle route full of rustic gorgeousness

Entering Kerala on the Achankovil forest highway from Mekkarai

36) 10th century Valiswara temple at Thiruvaliswaram10th century Valiswara temple at Thiruvaliswaram: Hidden Chola gem in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu

37) Tiruchendur Murugan Temple: Sea shore magic

38) Kallidaikurichi to Manimuthar Dam: A top scenic and rustic cycling route

39) Garuda Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi

40) Festival of Thiruvathirai from a traditional Tamil Nadu village

41) The festival of Karthigai Deepam from a traditional Tamil Nadu village

42) The exotic tropical fruits of Puliyarai

43) Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand cultural spectacle in rural Tamil Nadu

44) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature

Continue Reading...

Thursday, September 26, 2024

Sunderapandiapuram: Of Lovely Brahmin Agraharam Houses, Sunflower Fields, Windmills and Mountain Views

Sunderapandiapuram Sunflower fields are popular with tourists from Kerala to take selfies

This beautiful village in rustic Tamil Nadu is surrounded by the tall mountains of the Western Ghats. For about 5 months in a year, it enjoys a stiff breeze from the South West Monsoon along with consistent drizzle in an otherwise hot region giving it a dream-like status. The rest of the year, it enjoys good rainfall from the North East Monsoon and pleasant weather. This salubrious climate gives it a rich farming scene and the strong winds have given birth to many windmills around this village. I am talking about the village of Sunderapandiapuram that is located in the Tenkasi district of South Tamil Nadu.

Entering the village of Sunderapandiapuram in Tamil Nadu

Sunderapandiapuram, a popular location for movie shoots, is famous for its lovely Brahmin agraharam houses that surround the Perumal temple, a massive pond to its north, its gorgeous sunflower fields and lush farms. Life moves at a much slower pace here. Therein lies its charm. Historically, it was the Brahmin agraharams that made up Sunderapandiapuram. Wealthy merchants and rich farmers used to live in these Brahmin agraharams. The people used to own lots of land, made lots of money from their fertile farms and it was this abundance of money that allowed them to build massive houses in Sunderapandiapuram. Today, most of them live outside of Sunderapandiapuram either in the major Indian cities or abroad. But, they still try and visit their ancestral village at least once a year and it is for this reason that nearly all the houses are well maintained. Today, Sunderapandiapuram has grown beyond its agraharam streets. There are many more streets as people have moved here from other places in Tamil Nadu. And thus, you get to see a more diverse culture.

A street moment from Sunderapandiapuram, Tamil Nadu

The highlight of a visit to Sunderapandiapuram has to be its vibrant sunflower fields. Apparently, these sunflower fields are the craze on Instagram and tourists from the neighbouring state of Kerala flock here in huge numbers to take a selfie amongst these yellow flowers. The locals seem to have learned of this trend and are now charging charging an entry fee per person to enter these sunflower fields. And then there are the supporting elements like tender coconut water, fruits, nongu and padhani, etc. So, all in all, these sunflower fields generate good income for the locals.

The sunflower fields of Sunderapandiapuram, Tamil Nadu

And as you drive around the Sunderapandiapuram pond, you will notice the myriad of wind mills in the background along with the mountains in the backdrop and farms in the foreground that grow corn, chillies, vegetables and more. Overall, it is a lush scene. Add to it, the cool breeze blowing in from the west and the powder like drizzle, you have a great destination couple with awesome weather. And it is not far away from the other tourist attractions of this region that include waterfalls, mountains, temples and so much more. Sunderapandiapuram makes up for a fabulous day trip idea in this region and a must visit on your next holiday to Courtallam, Thenmala or Achankovil.

The Sunderapandiapuram landscape with the pond in the foreground and the windmills and the mountains in the background

Best season to visit

Sunderapandiapuram is great to visit all year round, but it feels best during the months of June to September as that is when the rest of the state of Tamil Nadu is hot while Sunderapandiapuram enjoys cool and breezy weather. This also happens to be the waterfall season, thus making it a perfect time to visit.

Sannadhi street, Sunderapandiapuram, Tamil Nadu

How to reach there:

Sunderapandiapuram is well connected to other cities by a good road network. If you are coming from Tirunelveli on the Tirunelveli-Tenkasi road, turn right at Pavoorchatram towards Melapavoor, Thiruchitrambalam and Sunderapandiapuram. If you are traveling from the Thenmala direction of Kerala, head towards Shenkottai and then turn left towards Elathur, Ayikudy and Sunderapandiapuram.

The nearest large bus station is Tenkasi bus stand (about 10 kms away) that is well connected with other parts of Tamil Nadu and Kerala.

The nearest large railway station is Tenkasi (10 kms away) and Shenkottai (20 kms away). Regular passenger trains connect these two towns with Tirunelveli and Kollam. Long distance trains also connect these towns with the cities of Chennai and Madurai.

The nearest airports are Tuticorin airport (about 95 kms away) and Thiruvananthapuram international airport (about 129 kms away).

The beautiful agraharam of Sunderapandiapuram, Tamil Nadu

Where to stay:

If agraharam homes are your thing, you can try the guest houses and AirBnBs at Sunderapandiapuram and/or Shencottai (about 20 kms away).

If you wish to stay amidst pristine nature, try the resorts and hotels in and around the waterfall town of Courtallam, about 15 kms away.

For good quality hotels, head to Tenkasi, about 10 kms away.

For luxurious accommodation, head to Tirunelveli, about 50 kms away or Thiruvananthapuram, about 120 kms away.

Where to eat:

There are a few places in Sunderapandiapuram where you can find basic snacks and a cup of tea and coffee, but for something more elaborate, you will have to head to the restaurants in Tenkasi.

Massive house in North Mada Street, Sunderapandiapuram, Tamil Nadu

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Kutralam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu

2) Puliyarai view point: Scenic pit stop on the Tenkasi – Kerala highway

3) Sivasailam Temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats

4) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East monsoon in India

5) 13th century Kasi Visvanathar temple at Tenkasi

A Sunderapandiapuram view

6) Mekkarai: The lush village where paddy fields, fruit orchards and mountains merge into one

7) Shenkottai to Achankovil forest route: The lesser known scenic jungle route

8) Manalar Falls: The gorgeous forest waterfall perfect for a family getaway

9) Kumbhavurutty Falls: Pristine jungle waterfall in the middle of dense forest

10) Thenmala forest: Offbeat nature and wildlife getaway

11) Vintage Pathimoonu Kannara Bridge: Colonial charm of the Indian Railways

12) Punalur Suspension Bridge: Historical gem of Kerala

Lush paddy fields and the Western Ghat mountains in the background near Alwakurichi

13) Lesser known Kerala Mountain Railways: Treat for nature lovers

14) Aryankavu Saastha Temple: Ancient temple located in the sacred forests of the Western Ghats

15) Palaruvi Falls: Kerala’s herbal waterfall that drops like milk from the sky

16) Thenmala Dam: A monsoon pit stop view

17) Rosemala: Spectacular view point of the Thenmala reservoir

Sunderapandiapuram temple pond, the windmills and the Western Ghats in the background

18) Kudrevetty: The gorgeous windy station of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

19) Manimuthar Falls: The herbal waterfall inside a tiger reserve

20) Agastyar Falls: A gorgeous waterfall on the Thamirabharani river

21) Manjolai: The offbeat hill station of Tamil Nadu

22) Nalumukku: The wettest place of India during the North East monsoon

23) Kakkachi: The highest point inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

24) Scenic Iron Bridge of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve: Pristine nature overloaded

25) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep south

26) Cycling through the backyards of Kalakad Mundanthurai tiger reserve

An old house in Sunderapandiapuram agraharam

27) Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy Temple: Magnificent 10th century temple with an ashtanga vimana

28) 10th Century Brahmadesam Kailasanathar Temple: Lesser known architectural marvel of South India

29) 1000 year old Papanasanathar Temple at Papanasam: Where you can wash all your sins away

30) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the saaral season

31) Iruttu Kadai Halwa: Icon of Tiruvelveli

32) Nellaiappar Temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder

33) Pattamadai Pai: GI Tagged beautiful handwoven mats from a tiny Tamil Nadu village

34) Thamirabharani river delta: A motorcycle route full of rustic gorgeousness

35) 10th Century Valiswara Temple at Thiruvaliswaram: Hidden Chola gem in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu

Sunderapandiapuram agraharam is full of such beautiful houses

36) Tiruchendur Murugan Temple: Sea Shore magic

37) Kallidaikurichi to Manimuthar Dam: A top scenic and rustic cycling route

38) Garuda Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi

39) The festival of Karthigai Deepam from a traditional Tamil Nadu village

40) The Festival of Thiruvathirai from a traditional Tamil Nadu village

41) The exotic tropical fruit shops of Puliyarai

42) Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand cultural spectacle in rural Tamil Nadu

43) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature

Continue Reading...
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