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Thursday, November 14, 2019

Chintala Venkataramana Swamy Temple: A 16th century marvel in Andhra Pradesh

Epics and Hindu mythological stories on Tadipatri temple

It is yet another offbeat day trip or weekend destination from Bangalore. It resembles Hampi’s Vittala temples in many ways and it is classified as one of the Monuments of National Importance by the Archaeological survey of India. I am talking about the 16th century Chintala Venkataramana Swamy temple that was built during the reign of the Vijayanagara empire.

Offering prayers at Chintala Venkataramana Swamy temple, Tadipatri

Built by Pemmasani Timmanayudu II, a subordinate of Krishnadevaraya of the Tuluva dynasty, the Chintala Venkataramana swamy temple is known for its granite sculptures, stone chariot, striking resemblance to Hampi’s Vittala temple,  Vijayanagara style of temple architecture and for its mesmerizing visual depictions of Hindu mythological stories and folklore.

A bright monsoon day at Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

Spanning 5 acres and located by the Penna river, the Chintala Venkataramana temple was built around the same time as Hampi’s Vittala temple. May be, that is why they share striking resemblances to each other. While the Vittala temple was built using red granite, this temple at Tadipatri was built using much older black granite.

Hampi Vittala Temple like horse chariot at Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

A mighty temple gopuram greets you upon your entry. Right after it is the sthamba and then comes the garuda mantapa that is in the form of a stone chariot with rolling granite wheels. While this stone chariot resembles that of the Vittala temple in Hampi, it is much smaller in size. Right in front of the Garuda mantapa is the large Mukha mantapa with its forty pillars followed by the Ranga Mantapa and the Garbha Griha.

The main mantapa of Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

The Mukha mantapa and the Ranga Mandapa are full of images and stories from Mahabharatha, Ramayana and Bhagavatha, all in proper sequence of events. It is certainly one of the highlights of a visit to this temple as each pillar tells beautiful stories through its intricate carvings. The other highlight of this temple is the 10 feet high classical masterpiece statue of Lord Venkataramana Swamy that is located in the Garbha griha. Just as you enter the garbha griha, do pay close attention to the ceiling to see the octagonal shaped flower.

Ananta Sayana Vishnu on the walls of Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

If you thought the Garuda mantapa stone chariot, the Mukha mantapa pillars, the Ranga Mantapa and Grabha Griha were beautiful, wait till you begin your temple parikrama (circumambulation). Every inch of the exterior walls of the temple are carved and each carving tells you a lot about our gods and our puranas. There is so much carving on the walls of this temple that it might take you a couple of days just to see them all.

Walking by the beautiful walls of Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

Built according to Shilpa shastras, this Vijayanagara era temple gem with its eye catching Dravidian architecture will appeal to all kinds of art, culture, history and temple lovers. I don’t know why it is not spoken in the same breath as Hampi. May be Karnataka has done a better job of promoting it than Andhra Pradesh. Whatever the reasons might be, I think this temple is so culturally, creatively and aesthetically rich that it is a must visit in my mind. It’s rustic atmosphere adds to the charm.

Vermilion on the feet of the gods at Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadiaptri

If you wish to experience a stunning piece of temple architecture that is not well known in the masses, the Chintala Venkataramana Swamy temple is that offbeat gem. Together with the Bugga Ramalingeshwara temple located a km away, these two temples of Tadipatri are the pride of our nation and are living examples of our crazily good creativity in temple architecture. I recommend both these temples with multiple thumbs up!

The elephant staircase leading to the garbha griha of Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

Temple timings:

6 AM to 11:30 AM and 4:30 PM to 8 PM (if you wish to enter the garbha griha and see the main deity). The temple campus is however kept open from 6 AM till 8 PM.

Hampi Vittala temple like carved pillars at Tadipatri temple

How to reach there:

There are two popular routes to Tadipatri from Bangalore.

One is to take the 4 lane highway (NH 44) all the way to Anantpur and then take the state highway to Tadipatri. This route would be fast and is about 272 kms long.

The other option is to take NH 44 till Nagasamudram and then take the smaller roads to Tadipatri via Dharmavaram, Narapala and Muchukota. This road would be scenic post Nagasamudram and gives you an opportunity to experience the countryside of Andhra Pradesh. Dharmavaram is also a great place to stop for breakfast if you happen to leave Bangalore real early.

The hall leading to the garbha griha at Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

Other places to visit enroute from Bangalore:

1) 7th century Bhoga Nandeeswara temple at the foot of Nandi hills

2) The vineyards and vegetable farms of rural Chikkaballapur

3) Sri Veerabhadra temple at Lepakshi, another Vijayanagara era temple

4) Gudibande Fort, a great fort and hike that offers some breathtaking views

5) Penukonda fort

6) Avalabetta, a lovely hill full of beautiful nature and great views

7) Skandagiri hill, a climb to see misty mountain top views

8) Chandarayana betta, a great place for a short hill climb

Doing the pradakshanam at Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri

Best season to visit:

The post monsoon and winter months from October through February would be a great time to visit this temple. You can visit during the other months too. Just that it might be a bit too hot and humid for comfort.

Entering Tadipatri's Chintala Venkataramana Temple

Where to stay:

Tadipatri has a few budget hotels to cater to its visitors. If you want something luxurious, I would recommend that you head to Anantpur and if you feel like some adventure, stay in tents by the Pennar river at Gandikota.
If you are traveling from Bangalore, you can also visit this temple as part of a day-trip, thus avoiding any stay.

Beautiful carvings on the temple walls at Tadipatri

Where to eat:

Tadipatri city has a lot of places to eat near the market street surrounding Sri Chintala Venkataramana temple. These are not high quality restaurants, but simple hotels serving delicious food. For something exquisite, you might have to go to Anantpur that is located about 55 kms away.

A moment at Sri Chintala Venkataramana Temple, Tadipatri, Andhra Pradesh

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Bugga Ramalingeswara Swamy temple, another Vijayanagara era gem, located just 1 km away

2) The natural wonder of Pennar river canyon at Gandikota

3) Belum caves, one of the longest cave system in the Indian subcontinent

4) The beautiful caves and Sri Uma Maheshwara temple at Yaganti

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Monday, November 11, 2019

Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple: Visit this offbeat gem from the Vijayanagara era

Admiring the sculptures and carvings on the gopuram of Bugga Ramalingeswara Swamy Temple, Tadipatri

James Anderson, an architectural historian who wrote the famous book ‘ History of Indian and Eastern Architecture’, termed the imposing gopurams of this temple as ‘wonders’. Some of the finest carvings of the early Vijayanagar empire can be found here and there are many aspects of this temple that will leave you gaping in wonder. I am talking about the Bugga Ramalingeswara temple in the town of Tadipatri in the state of Andhra Pradesh and that is an offbeat gem from the Vijayanagara era.

Sculptures on the gopuram of Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple annointed with vermilion

Built in the 15th century during the reign of the Saluva dynasty of the Vijayanagara kingdom, the Bugga Ramalingeswara temple is located by the banks of the Pennar river and is dedicated to Lord Shiva who exists here as a swayambhu linga. The interesting thing about this linga is that a perennial underground water spring keeps flowing from the base of the Shiva Linga even though the Shiva linga is about 17 to 18 feet higher than the Pennar river and that the Pennar river is dry for most of the year. This underground water spring is called Bugga in the local Telugu language and hence the name of this temple.

The musical pillars and the intricately sculpted gopuram of Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

In spite of having been plundered many times by Muslim rulers, this architectural marvel of a temple has somehow managed to withstand the test of time. While its incomplete, yet majestic gopurams take center stage, it has beautiful carvings and sculptures all over the temple that tell different stories. It could be the sapta swaranga musical pillars in front of the Vishnu shrine (very similar to the musical pillars of the Vittala temple at Hampi), the beautiful carvings on the ceilings (very similar to the Hoysala style of temple architecture) or the epics depicted on the exterior temple walls.

A work of beauty - gopuram at Sri Bugga Ramalingeswara swamy temple, Tadipatri

The other interesting thing to note in this temple is the direction of the Shiva shrine. Unlike other temples where the gods face east, here the Shiva linga faces west and hence instead of the usual east facing gopuram in other temples of South India, the Bugga Ramalingeswara temple has gorgeously carved gopurams in the north, south and west. Out of these the South and the west facing gopurams act as the main entrances and the most intricate ones. The west facing gopuram connects to the Pennar river.

Ornate sculptures on the gopurams at Bugga Ramalingeswara Swamy temple, Tadipatri

These gopurams and the carvings in the temple in overall depict the various avatars of Lord Shiva (Kevalamurti, Dakshinamurti, Uma Maheshwaramurti, Vrishabaruda murti, Natarajamurti, Ardhanarimurti and even the Haryadhra Murti) and his many life stories. Such richness of architectural expression is quite rare and an absolute treat for the true temple and culture lover. There is so much to see and learn here that pretty soon your neck will start hurting from all the looking up at the stunning pieces of art. If you are a Shiva bhakt or a lover of Shiva’s life stories, you will definitely appreciate this visual Shiva purana. In addition to the Shiva purana, you can also spot famous episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata and popular mythological stories such as churning of the ocean (Samudra Manthan).

The intricate work on the gopuram of Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

So the next time you are looking for a day trip or weekend getaway from Bangalore, do keep this offbeat temple destination in mind. It will certainly help if you enjoy art, culture and temples, but even otherwise, its gopuram wonders are bound to leave you speechless with their sheer presence and rich work.

The helpful priest and the Sapta Swaranga pillars of Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

How to reach there:

There are two popular routes to Tadipatri from Bangalore.

One is to take the 4 lane highway (NH 44) all the way to Anantpur and then take the state highway to Tadipatri. This route would be fast and is about 272 kms long.

The other option is to take NH 44 till Nagasamudram and then take the smaller roads to Tadipatri via Dharmavaram, Narapala and Muchukota. This road would be scenic post Nagasamudram and gives you an opportunity to experience the countryside of Andhra Pradesh. Dharmavaram is also a great place to stop for breakfast if you happen to leave Bangalore real early.

The main gopuram entrance of the Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Other places to visit enroute:

1) 7th century Bhoga Nandeeswara temple at the foot of Nandi hills

2) The vineyards and vegetable farms of rural Chikkaballapur

3) Sri Veerabhadra temple at Lepakshi, another Vijayanagara era temple

4) Gudibande Fort, a great fort and hike that offers some breathtaking views

5) Penukonda fort

6) Avalabetta, a lovely hill full of beautiful nature and great views

7) Skandagiri hill, a climb to see misty mountain top views

8) Chandarayana betta, a great place for a short hill climb

Bugga Ramalingeswara temple view from Pennar river

Best season to visit:

The post monsoon and winter months from October through February would be a great time to visit this temple. You can visit during the other months too. Just that it might be a bit too hot and humid for comfort.

The incomplete, yet massive gopuram of Bugga Ramalingeswara temple, Tadipatri

Where to stay:

Tadipatri has a few budget hotels to cater to its visitors. If you want something luxurious, I would recommend that you head to Anantpur and if you feel like some adventure, stay in tents by the Pennar river at Gandikota.

If you are traveling from Bangalore, you can also visit this temple as part of a day-trip, thus avoiding any stay.

A moment from Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Where to eat:

Tadipatri city has a lot of places to eat near the market street surrounding Sri Chintala Venkataramana temple. These are not high quality restaurants, but simple hotels serving delicious food. For something exquisite, you might have to go to Anantpur that is located about 55 kms away.

Colorful sarees and monotone colours of Bugga Ramalingeswara temple gopuram

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Chinta Venkataramana Swamy temple, another Vijayanagara era gem located just 1 km away

2) The natural wonder of Pennar river canyon at Gandikota

3) Belum caves, one of the longest cave system in the Indian subcontinent

4) The beautiful caves and Sri Uma Maheshwara temple at Yaganti

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Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Pennar River Canyon at Gandikota: Surreal Natural Wonder between Bangalore and Hyderabad

Panoramic Pennar river canyon at Gandikota, Andhra Pradesh

It is popularly referred to as the ‘Grand Canyon of India’. It is one of India’s most gorgeous natural wonders. It is so beautiful that efforts are being put to give it a world heritage tag. I am talking about the surreal Pennar river canyon at Gandikota in Andhra Pradesh and the 12th century Gandikota fort that is built along this steep and stunning canyon.

Gandikota, which literally translates into ‘gorge fort’ in Telugu is a 12th century fort that was built during the reign of the Kalyani Chalukyas on the steep  Erramala or Gandikota range of hills by the narrow Pennar river. This gorge is more than a million years old and could have been formed due to a volcanic eruption many millions of years ago. Such lava flows from volcanic eruptions in this region are referred to as Deccan traps. This steep rocky canyon of red granite could be one such Deccan trap.



The East flowing Pennar river is usually a seasonal river, so technically this canyon should be dry most months of the year, but due to the Gandikota dam upstream and the Mylavaram dam downstream that get water from the much larger Srisailam dam on the Krishna river, this canyon usually has water. It is technically a river, but it behaves more like a backwater or reservoir overflow. This constant water in the gorge is what makes this canyon look so beautiful and may be that is why it draws comparisons with the grand canyon in the United States which has such a similar riverine landscape.

The darkish green water, the red granite rocks, the in between greenery and the colours of the sky all add to the dramatic effect of this landscape. It is this heady concoction that makes this place a hot favorite with everyone. Add to it, the beautiful fort enclosure with temples, mosques, granary, pigeon tower, palace, massive fort walls with canons and water bodies and you have an amazing heritage and nature package.

Admiring the Pennar river canyon view on a dark monsoon day

And the fact that it is located right in between the bustling cities of Bangalore and Hyderabad make it a perfect weekend getaway destination. It offers a lovely mix of stupendous nature, adventurous trails, history and rustic location. Have you visited this place as yet? If not, I would recommend you to visit this place on your next road trip from Bangalore. And do remember to tell me your experience in the comments below.

Enjoying the beauty of Pennar River Canyon at Gandikota on a monsoon day

Things to keep in mind before visiting:

1) Drone photography is not allowed at Gandikota. I don’t know if there are people checking this, but I think the ban exists due to the dam nearby. The heavy winds in the gorge also renders drones useless.

2) The rocks by the Pennar river gorge are slippery. Do exercise caution and ensure that you wear footwear with good grip.

3) It can get quite hot here during the day and there is hardly any shade. Do ensure that you carry a hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, some power snacks and water with you at all times.

4) You can trek down to the Pennar river through the gorge. Do check with locals for the exact trail.

5) Sunset is the best time to visit Gandikota if photography is your agenda. After 3 pm, the sun shines directly on the Pennar river gorge.

Beautiful Nature - Pennar river canyon at Gandikota, Andhra Pradesh

How to reach there:

The nearest airports would either be Bangalore (290 kms) or Hyderabad (390 kms).

The nearest railway station would be Jammalamadugu (about 12 kms away), though connectivity would be poor. Gooty junction ( 116 kms away) and Muddanuru (about 26 kms away) would be the options with better rail connectivity.

Gandikota is connected by good roads to both Bangalore and Hyderabad.

If you are driving from Bangalore, opt for the scenic forest and gorge route. Bangalore to Koikonda on the NH 44 4 –lane highway. Then turn right towards Gorantala, Kadiri, Pulivendula and Muddanur. The route between Kadiri and Pulivendula is the beautiful gorge and canyon route while the earlier stretch between Gorantala and Kadiri is the hilly forest stretch. The entire route is about 290 kms and takes about 6 hours to drive from Bangalore.

Temple, Mosque and dark clouds at Gandikota

Other places to visit enroute:

1) 7th century Bhoga Nandeeswara temple at the foot of Nandi hills

2) The vineyards and vegetable farms of rural Chikkaballapur

3) Sri Veerabhadra temple at Lepakshi

4) Gudibande fort

5) Penukonda fort

6) Avalabetta

7) Skandagiri hill

8) Chandrayana betta

Juma Masjid inside Gandikota Fort, Andhra Pradesh

Where to stay:

There are 3 options to stay at Gandikota.

Option 1: Stay at the decent lodging at Haritha Resorts, a property run by Andhra Pradesh tourism department.

Option 2: Opt for the local camping services and stay in a tent by the river Pennar.

Option 3: Carry your own tent and pitch it somewhere in the Pennar river gorge. Do remember that this is not recommended, but there are people who have done this in the past.

Pennar River Canyon at Gandikota - One of India's beautiful natural wonders

Where to eat:

There are shacks just outside Gandikota fort where one can find basic things to eat like fried rice, omelette, tea, etc. If you want something more appropriate, head to Haritha Resort, a hotel run by Andhra Pradesh tourism department. For more options, you will have to head to Muddanur, about 28 kms away.

The steep walls of the Gandikota canyon with the reservoir in the background

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) The 15th to 16th century Vijayanagara era temples of Tadipatri (Sri Bugga Ramalingeswara Swamy temple and Sri Chintala Venakaramana Swamy temple)

2) Belum caves, one of the largest cave system in the Indian subcontinent

3) The beautiful caves and Sri Uma Maheshwara temple at Yaganti

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Friday, October 18, 2019

11 South Indian Temples with the most scenic locations

The famous pillars of Hoysala architecture at Belur, Karnataka

India is a land of temples and this temple riches can be seen all over the country. While each one of them are beautiful in their own right through their spiritual significance, cultural riches and glorious past, there are a few that are set in some of the most scenic locations. The temples located in the Himalayas usually enjoy such heavenly locations, but there are some in South India that enjoy pretty locations too. Here is a list of 11 South Indian temples that enjoy the most scenic of locations.

T A M I L    N A D U

Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam

Sesaharayar Mandapam art work, Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam

It is the largest functioning Hindu temple in the world. It also has the largest temple complex in India. It’s southern gopuram, at 239.5 feet, is the tallest in Asia. It is a major pilgrimage site for Srivaishnavites. I am talking about Sri Ranganathaswamy temple, one of the 3 temples of God Ranganatha that are situated in the natural islands formed in the Kaveri river. The Srirangam Ranganathaswamy temple is the most downstream one (Antya Ranga), while the other two upstream ones are Ranganathaswamy temple at Shivanasamudra (Madhya Ranga) and Ranganathaswamy temple at Srirangapatna (Adi Ranga).

This temple is famous for the Anantasayana Vishnu or Lord Vishnu in a reclining posture, but the interesting thing to note here is that the lord faces south unlike other Hindu temples of India where the lord usually faces the east direction. Built during the Chola empire, this temple rose to its current prominence during the Vijayanagara empire. Today, it is one of the most sacred spots in the country. On one side of the temple flows the beautiful Kaveri river and on the other flows its distributary, the Kollidam. Pilgrims visit this temple to absolve of all their sins, to immerse the ashes of the departed and to find the path to vaikuntam, which means no more cycle of rebirth. If you are offering any special prayers or wish to catch the abhishekham or opening of garbha griha doors, do keep a tab on the srirangam temple timings as everything works according to that. You might have to wait for a long time if you happen to miss these time slots.

Papanasanathar Temple, Papanasam

Neeranjanam offering at Papanasam Shiva Temple

This 1000 year old Shiva temple is located by the banks of the Thamarabharani river and is surrounded by the pristine forests of Kalakad Mundanthurai tiger reserve. A few kilometers from it is the Agastyar falls and the Papanasam dam that stores water and generates power for this region. While it is surrounded by sensational nature of the Western Ghats, pilgrims come in droves to this temple to get rid of their sins. They usually take a bath in the Thamabharani river and climb the steps from the river ghat straight into the temple to offer their prayers.

Arulmigu Ramanathaswamy Temple, Rameshwaram

Corridor of 1000 pillars at Ramanathaswamy Temple, Rameshwaram

This island in the Bay of Bengal is considered one of the holiest places in India for Hindus. One of the four char dhams in the iconic Hindu pilgrimage circuit, this place is where Lord Ram built a Shiva linga and worshipped to get the blessings of Lord Shiva in the Treta Yuga. People visit this temple and drench themselves in the water from the different wells inside the temple complex to absolve of all their sins. A lot of people also immerse the ashes of the departed here. The highlight of a trip to Rameshwaram is the wave less ocean, the iconic Pamban railway bridge and the vast blue spectacle.

Murugan Temple, Tiruchendur

The Sea Shore Tiruchendur Temple

One of Tamil Nadu’s richest temples, this temple dedicated to Lord Subramaniya is located just a few metres from the Bay of Bengal whose waves lap the beaches of this temple. One of the 6 holy places of worship for Lord Murugan, this temple designed in Dravidian style is known for the different looks of the lord on different days, its stunning gopuram and its lovely seaside atmosphere.

Shore temple, Mahabalipuram

Mahabalipuram Sea Shore Temple

Another Shore temple, but this time a 7th century UNESCO World heritage site that is located at Mahalabalipuram. Built by the Pallava kings, it is one of the oldest structural stone temples of South India. The highlights of this gorgeous temple are the lion monolith, the Ananta Sayana Vishnu, the cluster of temples, the Pancha Rathas (five chariot like monolithic structures named after the Pandavas of the Mahabharata) and the laidback sea side location.

K A R N A T A K A


Vittala Temple, Hampi

Ruins of Hampi and the rocky landscape

One of South India’s most intricately carved temples, Hampi’s Vittala temple that is located on the banks of the Tungabhadra river in northern Karnataka is a class apart. It’s musical pillars (that make sounds of everything from oceans to rivers to ragas and instruments) and its horse chariot (only 4 such chariots exist in India – Konark Sun Temple, Modhera Sun Temple, Airavateeswara Temple and Vittala Temple) are the main attractions. But, its main attraction according to me is its rocky landscape that surrounds the temple and through which the Tungabhadra river flows. This medieval wonder, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site was built by the kings of the Vijayanagara empire when Hampi used to be their capital.

Mahabaleshwar Temple, Gokarna


Om Beach, Gokarna, Karnataka, India

Sandwiched between the mountains of the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea, lies the temple town of Gokarna that is shaped like a cow’s ear (land that lies between the Aghnashini and Gangavali rivers). Amidst its rustic setting, lies the Mahabaleswar temple and inside it is the Atmalinga that is believed to have gifted to demon king Ravana by Lord Shiva himself. One of the seven important Hindu pilgrimage centers, Gokarna’s Mahalabaleswar is as popular for its spiritual significance as it is for its natural surroundings. Pristine white sandy beaches, cliff walks, beautiful waterfalls and a green setting completes its ensemble.

Bhutanatha Group of Temples, Badami

Bhutanatha Temple, Badami

A 7th Chalukyan wonder, the Bhutanatha group of temples were built right after the famous cave temples of Badami. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this cluster of sandstone shrines contains architectural forms from different periods due to every Chalukyan king leaving a bit of their mark behind for close to 400 years. Located next to a large temple pond, the Bhutanatha group of temples is surrounded by the rugged sandstone mountain landscape of Badami and during the rains, even waterfalls seem to adorn this view.

A N D H R A    P R A D E S H

Kailashagiri Temple, Visakhapatnam

Beach line view from atop Kailashgiri, Vizag

One of the best coastal views of Andhra Pradesh is visible from this mountain temple. It is a modern temple, but it offers some legendary views of the beautiful Coromandel coast near Vishakapatnam. A large statue of Shiva Parvati and a simple temple premises make Kailashagiri. A plastic free environment, a hilltop park and a cable car service completes this temple experience.

K E R A L A

Thirunelli Temple, Wayanad

Brahmagiri wildlife sanctuary near Thirunelli temple

This Vishnu temple built by Lord Brahma himself is located on one side of the Brahmagiri hill in Kerala. Located at an elevation of 3000 feet, this valley in northern Wayanad is surrounded by mountains, streams, waterfalls and beautiful forests of the Western Ghats. The place is so pretty that even Lord Brahma was enamoured by it and how this temple came along. There is a nearby mountain stream called Papanasini that is believed to carry medicinal water and that locals consider very sacred. Go to this temple for a full on forest, mountain and nature experience.

G O A

Mahadev Temple, Tambdi Surla

Mahadev Temple, Tamdi Surla, Goa

This 12th century Shaivite temple is the only structural temple of the Kadamba dynasty to have survived the Muslim and Goan occupations of the Goan territory. Set deep inside Mollem National Park, this Shiva temple enjoys as much nature, wildlife and greenery as any of the other popular forest zones of Goa. A forest trek and temple waterfall are some of the perks of being located in the Western Ghats of Goa.

Photo courtesy: The photographs that do not have the beontheroad logo has been borrowed from wikipedia.org under the Creative Commons license. Each photograph has been linked to its host page on wikipedia.

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Thursday, September 14, 2017

Lepakshi: Off Beat Temple Day Trip from Bangalore

A side view of the gorgeous pillars of Veerbhadra temple, Lepakshi

When it comes to the temple riches of the Vijayanagara empire, there is no better example than Hampi, whose mystic charms and rich history are known the world over. But, there do exist a few temples from the empire that share the same exotic quotient and that stand in full glory. One such temple built by the governors of the Vijayanagara empire in the 16th century is the Veerabhadra temple that is built in the shape of a tortoise at Lepakshi, Andhra Pradesh. And given that this temple is only 120 kms from Bangalore, it offers the interesting prospect of an off-beat temple day trip from Bangalore either during the week or the weekend.

A wide angle view of Lepakshi temple's pillar beauty

Now, you might be wondering why I am recommending a small temple so much. Even though it is small, it packs quite a punch with its many beautifully decorated and designed elements. The one that catches everyone’s attention and that is the highlight of a visit to this temple is the hanging pillar. A beautiful work of architecture, this massive stone pillar hangs in thin air while being surrounded by other gorgeously carved pillars. The other aspect is the very large Nandi bull that is carved out of a single piece of stone and that is considered as one of the largest of its type in the world. And then there is the pillar garden, the inner sanctum housing three main Hindu gods, the rock chain, the Vastu Purusha, the Lepakshi Saree designs and so much more.

Colorful sarees liven up the monotones of Lepakshi Temple, Andhra Pradesh

Once you have parked your vehicle and make your way up to the temple entrance through the maze of shops on either side, you might be greeted by the many monkeys that have made Lepakshi’s Veerabhadra temple their home. So far from the outside, the temple looks simple and like any other temple of South India, but once you climb those black granite steps and enter the first chamber of the temple with all its pillars, carvings and sculptures, that is when the true beauty of this temple dawns on you.

Dancing Lady on the walls of Lepakshi Temple, Andhra Pradesh

Considered by Skanda Purana as one of the divyashetras, the Lepakshi Veerabhadra temple is an important pilgrimage site of Lord Shiva. As you make your way straight to the shrines of Shiva, Vishnu and Veerabhadra (fearsome form of Lord Shiva), you cannot stop noticing the well preserved fresco paintings from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Puranas along with the giant sculptures and the jewellery and saree designs on the pillars.

Maha Vishnu statue carved on the pillars of Lepakshi temple

The temple that you have just entered can be broken down into three parts: the assembly hall or mukha mantapa or Natya mantapa where you are standing, the Ardha mantapa and finally the Garbhagriha or the sanctum sanctorum. While the Mukha Mantapa is made up of beautifully decorated pillars, it is the Ardha Mantapa and its fresco paintings that keep you spell bound.

Maze of beautiful sculptures on the pillars of Lepakshi temple, Andhra Pradesh

One of the Ardha Mantapa fresco paintings is said to Asia’s largest and it has the frescoes of 14 Avatars of Lord Shiva.  This fresco painting is so beautiful that you can almost always see guides pointing their flashlights here and explaining the different Avatars to the visitors. While this fresco painting adorns the top, the bottom is covered by stunning amazes of divine beings, saints, musicians, dancers and Avatars of Shiva.

Mythological creature and warriors on the walls of Veerbhadra temple, Lepakshi

If you see figurines of Goddess Ganga and Yamuna flanking the entrance, that means you are entering the garbhagriha or the sanctum sanctorum where the presiding deity is a large statue of Lord Veerabhadra, fully decorated and armed with skulls. As you walk clockwise in this chamber, you will also see a linga installed by Sage Agasthya here, the sanctum for Lord Shiva and a statue of Goddess Parvathi as you exit the garbhagriha. If you look up, you will notice paintings of the regally dressed builders of the temple.

Posing amidst the iconic pillars of Lepakshi Temple, Andhra Pradesh

All of this carving, painting, sculpting and design magic lies in a very short area. But, this is only a small portion of the temple. As you re-enter the Mukha Mantapa with the pillars and make your way clock-wise around the temple, you will notice that this temple has been indeed built on a rock mountain. And as you keep going forward you will come across another beautiful part of this temple, which is the huge granite carving of a coiled multi-hooded serpent providing an umbrella like cover to a Shiva Linga.

Relaxing amidst the beautifully carved pillars of Veerbhadra Temple, Lepakshi, Andhra Pradesh

Along this shiva linga, you will see a row of pillars, which might have been a place to house devotees. Right behind the Shiva Linga is a big rock carving of Lord Ganesha and once you cross it, you will come to the pillar garden of the temple, easily the most photogenic parts of the temple. This pillar garden looks like it was either the prototyping ground for the main temple or the remains of the pillars from the main temple were kept here. Either ways, one can enjoy them in different shades and glows as the light traverses across and on top of them unlike the pillars in the main temple that are housed in total shade.

Stunning sculpture on the pillars of Veerbhadra Temple, Lepakshi near Hindupur

These pillars, similar to the pillars of the main temple, are made up of decorated Lepakshi saree designs, beautiful sculptures of figurines, dancers, gods, jewels and much more. I would totally recommend spending a lot of time in this pillar garden and may be exploring it from all angles.

The coils of the Lepakshi Naga and the color tones of the South Indian Saree

The exploration of the temple is not complete even as you finish the clock-wise circle of the temple and find yourself outside the temple amidst the maze of shops. The huge granite monolith Nandi bull bedecked with garlands and bells and that faces the statue of the serpent in the precincts of the temple at about 200 metres from the temple is another of the gems surrounding this temple. This Nandi monolith is considered as one of the largest of its kind in the world.

The famous decorated pillars of Veerbhadra Temple, Lepakshi, Andhra Pradesh

Finally, make your way to the top of the hill that overlooks the temple. Not only can you see the tortoise shape of this temple, but you can soak in the entire landscape of this region. The best time to climb up this hill is either during sunrise or sunset.

The gorgeous pillars of Veerbhadra Temple, Lepakshi, Andhra PradeshAs you can see, this off-beat temple location from Bangalore packs quite a punch of cultural riches with its many magical design elements. Hope you enjoy this Vijayanagara temple beauty as much as I did!

The maze of carved pillars - a highlight of Lepakshi temple, Hindupur, Andhra Pradesh

How to reach here:


The rock cut Ganesha at Lepakshi temple, Andhra Pradesh

The nearest airport is Bangalore, which is well connected by both domestic and international flights. Hindupur is the closest railway station and from there you can catch a bus, autorickshaw or taxi to the Lepakshi temple.

The shiva linga protected by the Nagas at Lepakshi temple, Andhra Pradesh

By road, Lepakshi is located about 120 kms from Bangalore. One can either take the 4 lane Hyderabad National Highway NH 44 to Kodikonda and then turn left to Lepakshi or you can take the quieter alternate route of NH 9 via Yelahanka –> Doddaballpur –> Gauribidanur –> Hindupur and then turn right towards Lepakshi.

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