Narendra Bhawan: Regal Address for your Bikaner Holiday

To stay in a palace or a king’s ex-residence on your holiday is quite something, but to be actually treated like a king…now, that’s something I call a ‘WOWIE’ experience! Such a regal experience can be found at Narendra Bhawan, a grand residence of the last reigning Maharaja of Bikaner, Narendra Singhji. I stayed at this royal home turned hotel property recently on a trip to offbeat Bikaner, a hidden gem of Rajasthan and the experience was so pleasant that I cannot stop raving about it. 



My stay at Narendra Bhawan lasted 4 amazing days and these are the various reasons why I love this place so much. May be, after reading this review, you might also be tempted to plan your own royal offbeat holiday to Narendra Bhawan and Bikaner.

Hospitality like no other



As a travel blogger, I get in and out of more hotels in a year than many do in a lifetime. While most properties are good, serve the purpose and provide value for money, it is only a select few that touch your heart and make you wish that every other hotel could emulate their quality. Narendra Bhawan is one such place that bowls you over with their heart-warming hospitality. Every single member of the Narendra Bhawan team breathe this hospitality mantra and make you feel comfortable, happy and at home while you are staying with them. Right from small things like remembering your name, your dietary preferences to actually ensuring that you are having a great holiday (not just a great stay), Narendra Bhawan does it all. I absolutely treasure all the conversations and interactions I have had with the Narendra Bhawan team. Now, that’s something right?

Tastefully Designed Contemporary Royal Home



What I like about Narendra Bhawan is how it portrays the stories of Maharaja Narendra Singhji’s life, his hobbies, his military background and travels and the past and present of Bikaner through various design elements. In a beautiful contemporary traditional fusion design, Narendra Bhawan brings this royal past to life. Right from the time you enter the verandah lounge area that has been influenced by the Bombay Art Deco movement to the time you enter the rooms that mirror India’s past and present, each nook and corner of Narendra Bhawan has a story to tell.



This royal home is not only perfect for a romantic getaway to exquisite Bikaner, but ideal for those intimate family gatherings like baby showers, key birthday or anniversary celebrations or even a cosy wedding. With about 80 tastefully designed luxury rooms, a central courtyard emblematic of a Royal Bikaner, a fantastic kitchen that provides you a slice of heaven with every bite you eat, exquisitely themed dining and drawing rooms and a state of the art spa, your intimate family gathering will have its own royal story to tell.

Enchanting Curated Experiences and Explorations



Like the popular adage goes…It is not about the destination, but the journey! Narendra Bhawan Bikaner helps you make that journey special through its curated experiences and explorations. How about watching the sun go down while sipping a drink in the middle of the Bikaner desert? Or how about a resplendent dinner served at the Ratadai Talai on full moon nights? Or may be, a chaperoned exploration of the ancient merchant trail of Bikaner, its royal legacy and its rich temples? Each one of these experiences are bound to dazzle. I can vouch for it from personal experience. These are the ones that I opted for, but Narendra Bhawan offers more of these unique curated experiences.

Regal Culinary Experience



Food is an integral part of my travels and it seems like it is an important element of Narendra Bhawan too. No wonder we became thick as friends. Right from the freshly brewed coffee, puddings and pies, toffees and rum balls of the Mad Hatter Bake House to the lip smacking Marwari, Indian and continental foods that come out of the swivelling kitchen doors of Narendra Bhawan, you are bound to eat like a king. It would be hard to pick any favorites as each and every single of their culinary creations are bound to delight. Their specialty desserts and well stocked international quality bar are just the icing on the cake.

Very Affordable


Now, you might all be thinking that it will cost you a bomb to stay at this regal residence. That’s where you are mistaken. Narendra Bhawan is surprisingly very easy on your wallet. With rooms starting in the range of INR 6000 to 7000, a lot more of us can call make this our regal address for our Bikaneri holiday. And that’s not it. They do throw in off season discounts from time to time. May be, all the more reason to take your entire extended family with you!

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11 Top Things to do in Off Beat Bikaner

When we think of a holiday in Rajasthan, we think of the palaces and forts of Jaipur and Jodhpur, the rolling sand dunes of Jaisalmer, the lake palace of Udaipur, the temples of Ranakpur, the camel festival of Pushkar and the rich wildlife experience at Ranthambore Tiger Reserve. But, we hardly think of making off-beat Bikaner a part of our itinerary. May be, it is because Bikaner doesn’t have an airport or may be because, a lot of us have preferred to stay ignorant to the charms of this 3rd largest city in Rajasthan. I recently spent 4 days exploring Bikaner as part of a Rajasthan holiday and I have to say that it was possibly one of my best Rajasthan holiday experiences.



From forts to palaces, from havelis to temples and from a colorful desert culture to delicious food, the city of Bikaner has it all. Here are 11 special reasons to make off-beat Bikaner a part of your next Rajasthan holiday.

Live in a King’s Home



Rajasthan is one of those places in India that allows you to live like kings  even in the 21st century and that is one of the top lures of this colorful state. Sadly, most of them are uber expensive, but not in the case of Bikaner’s Narendra Bhawan, a home of ex-king Narendra Singh ji that functions today as a tastefully designed hotel home and which mirrors the life of Narendra Singh ji.



Living that regal life, chomping on that delicious food from their kitchen, getting spoiled by their amazing service and not burning a hole in your pocket…Now, that’s what I call a special Bikaneri holiday.

Pay a Visit to Rajasthan’s Temple of Rats  


A trip to Bikaner is not complete without a visit to the Rajasthan’s temple of rats aka Karni Mata Temple. This 15th century temple, which is one of its kind in the whole world can seriously test your mettle. After all, it is not every day that we enter a temple crawling with 20,000 rats and where people are offering food to them and taking their blessings. And while you are there, see if you are lucky enough to spot a white rat. It is like a jackpot of good luck.

Lose Yourself in the Ancient Merchant Trail



Back in the day, business in Bikaner thrived due to its prime location along the caravan routes between West and Central Asia. Precious stones, silk, spices and many other items were traded by the Bikaneri traders. Enriched by this bountiful trade, the nobles and merchants of Bikaner built palaces, havelis and temples in red sandstone that stand pristine till date.



There is no more trade happening on this ancient merchant trail, but it certainly offers a stunning walking trip across Rampuriya Haveli, Golchha Haveli, Rangari Chowk, Kotharion ka chowk, Daga Sitya Chowk and Punan Chand Haveli. This merchant trail walk through the havelis and colorful bazaars offers you a delightful insight into the sheer riches of the merchants of Bikaner.

Visit Miniature Artist Mahaveer Swami’s Workshop


Rajasthan is one of those states in India that specializes in miniature art. A beautiful fusion of Mughal style of art and Rajasthani color palette and creative imagination, Bikaner’s miniature art history is stunning and worth every bit a slow and thorough experience. Bikaner’s very own internationally acclaimed miniature artist, Mahaveer Swami ji, is keeping this ancient family skill afloat. Along with his son, he runs his miniature art workshop in the city.



Here you can understand everything from how paper is hand made, how the natural colors are produced to the intricacies behind the different types of brushes. And as his workshop is also a gallery of his life time’s creations, you can see the gorgeous and fine miniature art through the very important magnifying glass. You can also buy a miniature painting as a souvenir for yourself or for your friends and family.

Try out a Safa



In Rajasthan, one is not too far away from a man sporting a colorful turban and a handlebar moustache. This colorful turban, locally called as the safa, is an integral part of Rajasthani culture. Such is the safa culture that it is worn as  a day to day accessory and as a fashion accessory when attending weddings and family functions and it is considered derogatory to touch a safa with your foot. Moreover, each city, district and region in Rajasthan has its own unique way of tying the safa and the locals can easily identify the city that the person belongs to just by looking at this safa. Fantastic, right?



Such glamor over a turban definitely requires you trying it out at least once. Rajwadi Safa house near the Bikaner railway station is ideal as they host a lot of designs and their safa experts can tie you any of the different safa styles while giving you a good understanding of their meaning, history and background. Personally, I have a panchrangi tied in the Barmer style (this is the one that you see in the photograph).

Eat Traditional Marwari Lunch at a Haveli



In Rajasthan, one is never far away from delicious food. But, to enjoy a delicious meal the local way while sitting inside a haveli is definitely a rare experience. My mouth is already watering just thinking of Dal Baati Choorma, Kher Sangri, Govind Gatta, Bajra de Roti, Peshawari Dal, Halwa, Kheer and other delicious foods of the desert.

Have a Sunset Drink in the Desert



Bikaner and its surroundings are smack in the middle of the Thar desert and hence offer great access to gorgeous sand dunes, sunset camel rides in the desert, a sundowner drink by a oasis and/or a camp over under the star-studded and amazingly clear desert sky. And thats not it, if you are an early riser, you can catch a surreal sunrise in the desert while chinkaras, blackbucks, raptors and vultures keep dropping in and out of your vision.

Explore the Royal Trail



History lives in every nook and corner of 500 year old Bikaner. From its palaces to museums and from its forts to temples, every art and history lover is bound to be amazed by these historical storehouses. Be it the spectacular crafts of the Mahals inside 16th century Junagarh Fort ( a land fort that was never conquered) or the royal residence of Laxmi Niwas Palace, the resplendent Lalgarh palace influenced by Victorian architecture or  the rich architecture at Laxminath temple, the royal trail of Bikaner is bound to impress one and all.

Float into Ghevar Heaven



Made up of flour, ghee (clarified butter), kewra (extract distilled from the flower of the pandanus plant), milk, sugar, almonds, pistachio, saffron and green cardamom, this disc-shaped sweet cake and a traditional Rajasthani dessert possesses all the ingredients to transport you into sugary heaven. Even though the Ghevar hails from Jaipur, one can also try it out at the sweet meat shops in the bazaars of Bikaner. A word of advice: Go easy on the dessert and make sure you have not had a lot of food prior to eating this dessert as it is quite heavy.

Seth Bhandasar Jain Temple



Dedicated to the 5th Tirthankar of the Jain faith, this 15th century temple is the oldest and the most distinct monument in all of Bikaner.  Carved in red sandstone and white marble, this temple is famous for its rich mirror work, frescoes and gold leaf paintings. And when you are there, ask the priest (the local pandit) for the best selfie location and he will guide you to the whereabouts.

Catch a Sunset at the Royal Cenotaphs of Devikund Sagar



While the sunset in the desert is definitely special, I kind of liked the sunset at the Royal Cenotaphs of Bikaner too. The cremation ground of the Bikaner Royal family, these cenotaphs or chhattris are marvelous examples of a fusion of Rajput and Muslim art and architecture. Get here an hour before sunset, admire the different art and carvings and make your way to the cenotaphs on the far right to capture your perfect sunset shot.

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Karni Mata Temple: World’s Only Rat Temple

Do you know a temple where rats are worshipped? Do you know a place where rats and humans are considered one and the same? Well, there exists a temple near Bikaner in Rajasthan where 20,000 or so rats live in a temple and who are fed fresh warm food and are worshipped by the people visiting this temple. And where rats are seen nibbling and running all around the temple. Sounds weird right? Well, such temples are really rare and it is not surprising that people from all over the world come to see it with their own eyes. I was no different and paid my first visit on my recent trip to Bikaner.



Set deep in the Thar desert at a place called Deshnok lies Karni Mata Temple, aka Temple of Rats. ‘Karni Mata’, who lends her name to this temple was a simple girl child who was born into the Charan community of Rajasthan. Believed to be an incarnation of Goddess Durga, Karni Mata lived for as long as 150 years curing people and making miracles happen. People of the Jodhpur and Bikaner kingdoms worshipped her and she blessed them with peace, prosperity and good health.



There are 2 legends surrounding this temple. The first legend has it that Karni Mata’s step son Laxman, drowned in a tank while attempting to drink water from it. Karni Mata requested Yama, the god of death to revive her son, but Yama refused as the boy had already taken a rebirth. But, after consistent pleading, Lord Yama relented and permitted Laxman and all of Karni Mata’s male children to be reincarnated as rats. The second legend has it that 20,000 members of an army deserted a nearby battle and came running to Deshnok. In those days, desertion meant death. However, Karni Mata spared their lives, turned them into rats and allowed them to stay in the temple. To show their gratitude, the soldiers (rats) pledged to serve Karni Mata.



Keeping the legends aside, there are many current stories from the Karni Mata temple that boggle your mind. Like how the number of rats living in the temple does not go beyond 20,000. Or the fact that if a rat dies, a new birth occurs in the charan community some where and vice versa with death. However, there are no baby rats in the temple. Locals say that all are adult male rats. They also believe that white rats are the holy souls and if one gets to see them all their wishes will come true. Unfortunately for me, I couldn’t sight a white rat.



While the Karni Mata temple took form sometime in the early 15th century, its current marble form with silver doors and Mughal architecture is from the early 20th century when it was built by Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner. From the outside, the temple looks to be simple and like most of the Hindu temples of Rajasthan, but when I entered, I saw rats running all around. It takes a while to get used to the rats and their smell. Don’t be surprised if you jump from time to time as rats keep scurrying over and/or around you. It is actually considered auspicious if a rat runs over you. And even better if it eats the food offering brought by you. Locals also say that it is considered very lucky if you eat the food nibbled by the rats, but then, I would not recommend that. But, if you do step on a rat or if you end up killing a rat, you will have to offer a rat made out of gold or silver as a punishment.



It does feel weird to be visiting a temple where rats (that give you that creepy feeling) are scurrying all around you, but then, it is not every day that you see the world’s only rat temple. I would definitely recommend you to gather every ounce of courage and pay a visit during your next trip to Bikaner. It will be a special experience.

How to reach there: Deshnok is about 30 kilometers from Bikaner on the Bikaner – Jodhpur road. You could either hire a private car or take a public bus. Bikaner is the nearest railway station and Jodhpur will be the nearest airport.

When to go there: Late evening or early mornings are best to visit the temple as that is when you will see the rats at their busy self. Navaratri and festival days will be crowded, so you might want to avoid those.

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