Arunachal’s Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary: Birdwatcher’s Paradise in the Himalayas

It is one of India’s best birding hotspots. It is an integral part of the elephant corridor in the Eastern Himalayas. One can see the most surreal sunrises of the Eastern Himalayas here. I am talking about the extremely off-beat and hidden Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary that is located in the Himalayan foothills of West Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh.



Made up of sub-tropical forests, evergreen forests and bamboo forests, shrubs and thickets, the beauty of Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary lies in its wide altitude range (500 m to 3,250 metres). This diversity in altitude range gives birth to a wide variety of flora and which in turn attracts many birds, herpetofauna, mammals and butterflies. A part of the Kameng Elephant reserve, it conjoins Sessa Orchid sanctuary to the north-east and Pakhui Tiger Reserve across the Kameng river to the east.



It’s call to fame was a new bird species that was discovered here in 2006 by amateur birder and astrophysicist Ramana Athreya. This bird was named Bugun liocichla after the Bugun community that lives in this forest. But, for me, Eaglenest is more than just one bird. To me, it is surreal Himalayan sunrises, pristine Himalayan forests, colorful small birds, vibrant butterflies, giant flying squirrels, stories of marauding elephants and plenty of birding walks through bamboo thickets and forests.



With at least 454 species of birds here, birding is the major attraction here. If you are patient, you will spot birds that you will not come across anywhere in India except in the color palettes of birding books. Nuthatches, Pittas, Yuhinas, Milnas, Trogons and Sibias give you company as you make your daily walk through this forest. In addition to these small bird species, Eaglenest has the unique distinction of having three tragopan species. If you are lucky, you will spot giant flying squirrels, Arunachal Macaques, Gaurs and Elephants during your birding expeditions.



Apart from birding, one can study butterflies here, see rhododendrons during the spring season, see the vibrant fall colours in November, enjoy waking up to the sun rising over the snow capped mountains of the Himalayas or huddle around the campfire on chilly nights while listening to the stories of the land.



Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary is an absolute joy to the senses and a treat to the eyes. It doesn’t matter whether you are a birdwatcher, wildlife enthusiast, herpetologist, lepidopterist or a simple nature enthusiast, this remote wildlife sanctuary of Arunachal Pradesh will blow your mind with its riches. I recommend it with many thumbs up!



How to get inner line permit for Arunachal Pradesh:

If you have made prior bookings at either of the campsites at Eaglenest, they will help you get the inner line permit.

If you wish to get the permit on your own, you can either apply online at the government website or visit in-person to the Deputy Commissioner’s office at any of these cities - Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati, Shillong, Tezpur, Dibrugarh, North Lakhimpur, Jorhat and in the capitals of other NE states.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Tezpur (150 kms away), but the nearest airport with the best pan-India connectivity would be Guwahati (about 355 kms away or 9 hour drive).

The nearest railway station would be Bhalukpong (around 94 kms away).

If you are traveling by road, the best option would be to hire your own mode of transportation. The route would be Guwahati –> Tezpur –> Tenga –> Eaglenest campsite. The route from Tenga to Eaglenest campsite is usually in bad condition.

If you wish to opt for public transportation, you will have to make do with multiple bus and shared jeep rides till Tenga. After that, you will have to hire a vehicle to take you to Eaglenest campsite.



Best season to visit:

The rhododendron season of March and April are the best months to visit to see the birds. But, this is also high season and bookings need to be made well in advance.

If you don’t mind cold weather, mid-November through February is a great time to visit too. This is also the time when the mountain views are clearer and the sunrises are magnificent.

Eaglenest wildlife sanctuary is closed during the monsoon months of June through September.



Where to stay:

The only options to stay at Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary are at tented camps. Lama Birding camp,Bompu Camp and Sessni camp are such campsites run by the Bugun welfare society. Lama is the oldest camp. Both camps are basic, but offer fantastic location and views.



Where to eat:

There are no restaurants here. So the only place to eat is at your place of accommodation, which is bound to be basic. If you have any specific needs, it is best that you carry them with you.



Other nearby places for birdwatching:

1) Nameri National Park, Assam – about 113 kms away

2) Sela pass, Arunachal Pradesh – about 160 kms away

3) Manas National Park, Assam – about 275 kms away

4) Orang National Park, Assam – about 130 kms away

5) Kaziranga Tiger Reserve, Assam – about 135 kms away

6) Hoolongopar Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary, Assam – about 290 kms away




Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Sela Pass – A 13,000 feet high beautiful mountain pass in Western Arunachal Pradesh. Known for its high altitude lakes and winding roads.

2) Nameri National Park – Located at the foot hills of the Eastern Himalayas, this national park is home to tigers, elephants and the great hornbill. Also, its rivers were once famous for angling.

3) Bomdila – Home to the Bombila monastery, this Buddhist town can make for a great pit stop before heading towards Tawang.

4) Dirang – A scenic pit stop enroute to Tawang from Guwahati.

5) Sangti valley – This beautiful valley is known for its pristine forests, stunning mountain views, fast rivers, fruit orchards and interesting culture.

6) Tawang – A 10,000 feet high hill station that is home to the largest Buddhist monastery in India.

7) Jung Falls – A beautiful pit stop enroute to Tawang.

8) Kaziranga Tiger Reserve – A UNESCO World Heritage site and home to the one-horned rhinoceros. This Brahmaputra swampland is home to elephants, tigers, rhinos and many other wild animals.

9) Jaswantgarh war memorial – A war memorial commemorating the soldiers who fought in the 1962 Indo-China war.

10) Penga Teng Tso Lake – A beautiful high altitude lake north of Tawang towards the India – China border.

11) Tongpen La view point – An absolutely stunning view point enroute to Bumla pass.

12) Sangetsar Lake – A religious lake where many Bollywood movies have been shot.

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Windermere River House: Where time goes for a stroll

In our fast paced lives, each of us crave for a break. But, unfortunately, this break (where we go to a dream destination) ends up being more stressful than our regular day in the city. The reasons could be many: jet lag, flights at odd hours, changing weather, changing sleep patterns, cramming a lot into a small schedule, food issues, that thought of work piling up when we return, too much road travel and so many other things that we have all faced during our travels.

So, how do we end up enjoying and loving our holiday and yet return home fully refreshed physically, mentally and emotionally? There is no set template to find the answer, but slow travel, oodles of nature, a quiet environment, yoga, physical activity, lots of sunshine, a good bed, delicious food and minimal connectivity seems to do the trick for me.



One such place in peninsular India that offers oodles of the above is a new boutique luxury property called Windermere River House, that is tucked between the calm Periyar river of Kerala, the dense Neriamangalam forest, rubber plantations and the tall Western Ghat mountains. Set in a small 2 acre space, it offers you that perfect tropical countryside experience with all the ingredients for a totally relaxing holiday. For bookings, do look up their website or go through Rare India, a great portal of those special properties across India, Nepal and Bhutan.

Location! Location! Location!

The location of the Windermere River House property is such that one will fall in love with it even before stepping into the property. The small and winding countryside roads that lead you to the property once you deviate from the Munnar – Kochi highway are a delight to the senses. Tall trees, small streams, pretty villages and an overall sense of solitude is what makes this place so special.


 
And then there is the property itself. On one side of the property is the Periyar river that is dammed just further down. On the opposite side is the dense Neriamangalam jungle and the tall mountain peaks of the Western Ghats. On either side are rubber plantations interspersed with spice farms and other tropical trees. And all this just an hour or so away from the bustling city of Kochi, which means that this kind of a nature rich relaxing holiday is so easily accessible from any Indian city with an airport.

Traditional Look with Modern Luxuries


 
The Windermere River House property, which is surrounded by beautiful nature, is in itself a treat to the eye. Built in traditional Kerala style architecture, it is that perfect combination of minimalistic tropical style mixed with modern day luxuries. It’s infinity pool facing the Periyar river is the perfect place to relax and unwind. It’s 5 traditionally designed rooms are ideal for couples or a small group of family and friends. It’s balconies are perfect for spotting birds with a hot cup of tea or coffee in hand during the day and counting fireflies in the night.

The kitchen churns out a lip smacking combination of traditional and continental food. If you love fish, this is the place to be, as cooking the fresh catch of the day in Kerala curry style is their specialty. The chef is also super accommodating, which means that you can ask him to cook a special menu just for you.

Perfect for Yoga or Spiritual Holidays

The dedicated open air yoga and meditation center facing the infinity pool and the river and the presence of yoga mats in each room means that this is the place to truly unwind. When you do yoga or meditate here, all you can hear is the sounds of nature and your own breathing. That is how quiet this place is. While I was there, I enjoyed doing yoga both at early in the morning and at sunset. This was followed by a session in the pool and good food and coffee. And that’s why when I returned home, I was all fresh and rejuvenated both physically and mentally. 

Great for Sunbathing and Reading



The lush tropical weather, the bright sunny days, the sound of the birds, the mild gurgle of the Periyar, the sensational infinity pool, the umpteen green spaces and the open air lounge nearby makes this a great place for those lazy swims coupled with book reading, sun bathing and dreamy afternoon siesta sessions. Nothing beats the feeling of sleeping in tropical shade after a good yoga and swimming session followed by an absolutely delicious Kerala meal that is starch heavy. That kind of sleep is so care free and is so hard to come by in this time and era.

Motorcycling, Fishing, Nature Walks, Cycling and Birdwatching


 
Whenever you feel like you have relaxed enough and wish to do some kind of activity, this place provides you with many options. If you prefer walks, you can go for long forest walks or to the nearby villages. If you wish to go a bit far away, you can borrow the in-house bicycles and head over the suspension bridges, the burial sites and the far away villages. If you are a motorcycling afficionado, you will certainly love the winding roads that take you to the different waterfalls and the Thattekad bird sanctuary.

Birders will have a field day almost everywhere as this entire region is known for its birds. Malabar grey honrbills can be spotted every morning and afternoon right from the balconies in front of your rooms. Other birds that frequent the Windermere River House are the purple sunbirds, brain fever bird, night heron, mynas, barbets, bee eaters and so many more. If you feel like spreading your birding wings a bit wider, you have the neighbouring Neriamangalam forest or the iconic birding trails of Dr Salim Bird Sanctuary at Thattekad.

I foresee this place to be a huge hit with anglers. The only flip side is that you will have to carry your own fishing equipment. The perennial Periyar river and the fact that it get dammed just a bit further downstream ensures that you are never too far away from that special catch.


 
What else to see around here?



1) Thattekad Bird Sanctuary: If you a birder or a nature lover, you will definitely enjoy the rich bird, butterfly and insect life while walking on the Salim Ali birding trails inside Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.

2) Inchathotty Bridge: A 20 minute bicycle ride or a 5 minute motorcycle ride would take you to Kerala’s longest suspension bridge that connects the mighty Periyar river.

3) Neriamangalam Forest: If you feel like a forest walk, you can get permits from the wildlife department and go in search of more exotic bird and wildlife species inside the dense Neriamangalam forest.

4) Valara waterfall and other waterfalls: A short drive from Windermere River House towards Munnar are a plethora of waterfalls that are set amidst pristine greenery. These can make for great photography and picnic spots.


How to reach here?

Kochi would be your nearest domestic and international airport. Windermere River House is about 60 kms by road from both Kochi and Munnar. If you follow Google maps, it is about 7 kms from the intersection near the big Neriamangalam bridge on the Periyar. It is best to have some form of transportation as buses would not be able to provide you with last mile connectivity.

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Magical Nature on the Birding Trails of Thattekad Bird Sanctuary, Kerala

India’s famous ornithologist, Dr Salim Ali, calls this place, the richest bird habitat in peninsular India. I say, this place is so much more! It is where nature weaves a web of magic across a 360 degree spectrum. I am talking about the small, but rich, Thattekad Bird Sanctuary, Kerala’s first bird sanctuary that is an evergreen low land forest located between the branches of the mighty Periyar river.



A great day trip from Kochi and Munnar, Thattekad Bird Sanctuary, which is also fondly referred to as Dr Salim Ali bird sanctuary is perfect for nature lovers, insect lovers, plant lovers and of course for those who love the avifauna. Arrive here at 7 AM when the gates open and watch nature unfurl its magic in front of your eyes and ears.



Right from the shrill sound of the cicadas at dawn to the cacophony of the mynas, babblers, drongos, hornbills, cuckoos, parakeets and other birds that greet you straight after, this place is bound to awaken all your senses and may be even put them into overdrive. Once you start walking on the different trails inside the bird sanctuary, you will notice richness of life almost everywhere.



From caterpillars to dragon flies, butterflies and moths, from interesting plants to fungi and ferns and from over 284 species of birds to many mammals, amphibians and reptiles, all the trails inside the Thattekad bird sanctuary is filled with mother nature’s rich drama. To me, standing in the middle of nature’s cacophony and drama is the best way to forget the chaos of the fast paced world outside and be one with yourself and the nature that surrounds you.



Each side of the bird sanctuary is bound to astound you. Sometimes, the experience is so good that you lose your way and end up in the middle of nowhere. That is what happened to me and my friends. And which is why I would recommend that you opt for a forest guide or go with a good map.



A lot of people visiting this bird sanctuary come with a bucket list of birds to spot, see and photograph. Very high on this list is the Ceylon Frogmouth, a beautiful and rare bird found in this region. Most forest guides take you directly to the spot where the birds live and help you take your pictures. While this is great for photography, it does take away the whole charm of being one with mother nature where every new sight, smell and sound is a treat to your senses.



It’s amazing location on the fringes of many forest ecosystems such as Chinnar, Sholayar, Paramabikulam, Eravikulam and others ensures that this belt supports diverse vegetation, which enables seasonal migration of birds. This means that as a bird lover, irrespective of time of year, you are never short of quality bird watching.



When visiting this place, opt for a good pair of binoculars and don’t be disappointed if you do not get a lot of quality bird photographs. The dense foliage and the tall trees ensures that lighting is always poor inside and the thicket ensures that you struggle to get good focus. Hence, just enjoy your walk on these birding trails and soak in the beauty of mother nature. This is one place that you should plan to visit on a holiday to Kochi or Munnar. It is an even better experience if you stay inside the bird sanctuary or in the nearby villages surrounding the Neriamangalam forest and by the Periyar river.

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Baya Weaver Nests with Babies: Another Monsoon Magic in Mother Nature

Last Sunday, I was out on a relaxed morning motorcycle ride through the quieter and greener countryside roads of Karnataka. I was headed towards Savanadurga via the Dodda aladamara and Manchinebele dam route when I spotted this very appealing dirt track leading to the top of a nearby hill. The dirt track turned out to a dead end after a bit, but it led me to this tree by a small stream that had an active baya weaver colony with their famous well woven nests.

  

Video Note: Watch the video in 4K for best quality and for all the details. Shot on Google Pixel 2 XL Phone.

This weaver nest colony piqued the interest of the birdwatcher in me and off I went closer to them. I could see both the male (bright yellow) and female (Dull dirty yellow grey) species of this Baya Weaver bird busy fluttering in and out of their nests. But, I was kind of stupefied by the incessant tweeting and chirping of the birds and that’s when it suddenly struck me. The monsoon season is when the Baya weaver gives birth to her young ones and the chatter that I could hear near the tree were actually the little ones shouting for food or for their parent’s attention. The baya weaver birds kept going in and out of the nests. May be, they were feeding them or taking care of them.



These well engineering nests that are made of a combination of grains, clay, mud, twigs and leaves are a sight to behold and to actually see a full colony with birds fluttering in and out and the sound of the young weaver chicks is more than what I could have asked for. The birdwatcher and the nature lover in me definitely returned happy. If you like such birdwatching, keep an eye for their nests next to water sources on your next trip to rural India.

For those who wish to know, the Baya Weaver, is found all across the Indian subcontinent and their nests are found especially on thorny trees near water sources. They breed during the monsoons and it is the males who build these well engineered nests.

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Chiang Saen Lake: A Scenic place where you can see winter birds

A lot of tourists visit Chiang Saen as part of their day tour from Chiang Rai or Chiang Mai to visit the Golden triangle. But, if you are planning in Chiang Saen, do not miss the opportunity to explore the very calm and serene Chiang Saen Lake that is located about 5 kilometers from the town.


The lake is pretty large and its underground vegetable matter and fish variety attracts a lot of migratory birds from the north. When I was there yesterday, I saw storks, ducks, teals, plovers, water-hens and more. There are not too many birds like some of the birding sanctuaries, but enough to pique your attention.


It is also a great place for capturing sunset from the lake’s level. On certain days, you might be the only person watching the sunset at this lake. When I was there yesterday, I just had 2 local photographers giving me company. If you feel like solitude, this is a place you have to visit if you are in the golden triangle belt of Thailand.

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