Ladakhi Kiangs from Changthang Cold Desert

They are related to the Zebras of East Africa and to the wild asses of Rann of Kutch. But, they face the harshest of terrain and environmental conditions. They are the kiangs of Ladakh, a breed that roams the high altitudes of the Western Himalayas.


Generally, they are seen very regularly during the summer months due to an increase in green cover, but I was one of those lucky ones who got to see them in the cold month of January when they are rarely seen.


I saw them on my way from Chumathang to Hanle in the Changthang Cold Desert, a high altitude cold desert bordering China. Unfortunately, I was limited to a focal length of 40 mm and hence could not grab a tight shot.

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Chang La, the 3rd Highest Motorable Road in the World, in winter

Marsimek La is a killer climb, Khardung La rises out of nowhere, but the climb is pretty easy. Chang La is one of the more steeper climbs. It is known for the boulders that greet everyone during the climb. At 17,586 feet, Chang La (Pass towards the South), is the third highest motorable road in the world after Marsimek La and Khardung La.


This is the pass that connects the rest of Ladakh with the picturesque Pangong Tso lake. I was here in the peak of winter and it was quite an experience. Thankfully, the roads were not snowed in due to a lack of snowfall. But, as we climbed up towards Chang La, we found a whole lot of boulders blocking our path.


It took us a good 25 minutes and after a lot of huffing and panting (due to lack of oxygen), we were finally able to remove the boulders or at least create enough way for our jeep to go by. The sensational snow covered Chang la and the heated tea shop on the top helped in getting our breath back and also some warmth back into our cold bones (especially our feet).


From this pass onwards, the landscape changes into more desert-like and this forms the Changthang Plateau and Tangtse is the main village in it. The aura of the spectacular vistas here is totally worth the drive to this place. One should definitely experience this place.

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Standing on the Frozen Indus River

How many people can say that they stood right on the middle of a flowing river? Underground rivers and standing on bridges don’t count. But, a frozen river definitely counts.


I can convincingly say that I stood right in the  middle of the frozen Indus river at a place called Mahe in India’s Ladakh region. This place is situated right at the junction where one road leads to the Tso Moriri lake, while the other leads to Nyoma, Loma and the astronomical observatory at Hanle.


It was end of December and the Indus river here was completely frozen. Not frozen in bits and pieces, but completely frozen end to end. One could stand on it and jump as hard as possible and not even a teenie-meenie crack would appear. Only thing was that it was a bit slippery and we had to watch our footing.


Such was the strength of the ice that when I threw a huge rock onto it, the rock broke into many pieces. And it was unbelievably cold here too. The shade factor added to the misery.


Generally, as a thumb rule, the Indus river is completely frozen from Mahe and upstream into Nyoma and Loma and the rest of it in the Changthang Cold Desert. The winter temperatures here are always below minus 20 degree celsius even during the day time.


Sometimes I think…Why don’t people walk on the frozen Indus river like how they do on the Zanskar river as part of the Chadar trek. Of course, I do understand that the Chadar was then part of the winter trade route and no one lives in the Changthang Cold Desert and thus needed no frozen river trek. But, in today’s world of adrenalin junkies, I am sure the frozen Indus river trek would find a lot of takers. Considering that the terrain is much more ruthless when compared to the Zanskar valley, this place should offer a memorable experience. I am definitely kicked to do it at least once.

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Pangong Tso in winter

Pangong Tso is one of India’s most beautiful places. It looks picturesque in the summer, which is the peak tourist season, but I wanted to see how it looks in the extremely cold winter months. And that’s how I landed here during my winter backpacking trip to Ladakh.


Pangong Tso is a high altitude (14,270 feet) lake located in the western Himalayas of Ladakh. 40% of this lake comes under India while the remaining 60% comes under the purview of China occupied Tibet. Since this lake area falls under the sensitive India-China border, one needs an inner line permit to visit this Himalayan lake.


Completed surrounded by the mighty Himalayas, the lake colour varies from a emerald blue to a turquoise green. While I was here, the temperatures were about minus 15 degrees celsius, but the wind chill factor would have been 5 degrees lower. In spite of such low temperatures, the lake was frozen only at the edges. It is said that the lake freezes only for a couple of weeks or so every winter. The best part is that it freezes real quick and unfreezes with great speed too.


When the lake completely freezes over, the ice gets so thick that one can actually drive a jeep over it. The Indian army is known to organize skating games over it during such times. But, in all this, I sometimes wonder, how does a saline lake, such as the Pangong Tso really freeze. I tried tasting its water and found it be more saline than sea water.


But, on the other hand, during the summer months, the atmosphere at the lake is more bearable, though the lack of oxygen can still be felt, though not as bad as winter. But, the colours get prettier in summer as the clouds stay away during the warm months. What one gets to see in the ‘3 Idiots’ movie is the summer view. What you get to see here are the winter views.

 
If you wish to be one with nature, then winter is the time. The spectacular sights of the lake, its surrounding hills, the rarified temperature, the complete lack of living beings, the bone-chilling weather and the absolute peace is a perfect concoction for a heady paradise mix.

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Shyok River: A Beautiful Himalayan River from Northern Ladakh

The glacier-fed Shyok river is one of the main reasons for the extremely pretty and fertile Shyok and Nubra valleys. This tributary of the Indus river originates from the Rimo glacier, one of the tongues of the Siachen glacier, flows along the Pangong range of Changthang, does a ‘U’ turn and joins the Nubra river. It is the valley of these rivers that is known as the food bowl of Ladakh, allowing exotic fruits like seabuckthorn berries, apricots, almonds, etc. to grow here.


The Shyok and the Nubra then enter Pakistan and join the Indus river. The entire river is quite a sight in all seasons, especially in the summers when it glitters in emerald colors. This picture is of the Shyok river from a curve on one of the Himalayan roads that connects Khardung la to the town of Diskit

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