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Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Tranquebar – The Tale of the Submerged City

One can find a lot of information about Tranquebar on the internet. It’s historic Dansborg Fort, the 17th century British Collector’s Luxury Bungalow, its unique stretch of beach, colonial buildings and churches, Danish history and the 14th century Masilamani Nathar temple all get a lot of mention. But, there is something that you can find only when you visit this beach town in person. And that is the tale behind this submerged city.

 
The locals will tell you that about a kilometre and a half of the city lies submerged. And even better is when they show you the tied up boats in the open seas that mark the true boundary of this coastal town. The boats act as buoys that alert ships and fishing vessels about the danger underneath.

 
And all this because of rising sea levels worldwide. The locals don’t recommend anyone swimming within this cordoned area, but I was wondering if we could dive with our scuba diving equipment and get a chance to see how this submerged town looks from the inside. May be someone has done this. I am guessing that the Archaeological Society of India must have definitely done something on these lines.

 
If permissible, I would have loved to dive here, but didn’t find any infrastructure that allows such dives. And that is the tale of the submerged city, that used to be one of Denmark’s strongest colonies in India.

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Tranquebar’s Different Beach Line...Thanks to Global Warming and Climate Change!

Here the beach is not rocky like in Pondicherry or Kanyakumari. Nor is it sandy like most of India’s west coast. Instead, the waves of the Bay of Bengal crash against the bricks that used to be the historic Danish city of Trankebar. Thanks to global warming and climate change, only a small portion of the brickworks breathe in the atmosphere. Rest of them remain below the water’s surface.

 
This brickwork from the era gone by is what creates an unique aura at Tranquebar (Tharangambadi). Tharangambadi is a small seaside town situated on the east coast of India, about 100 kilometres south of Pondicherry.


The feeling of being one with nature becomes ominous if one were to climb these brick walls. And if it is high tide time and you are the at the edge of brick walls that jut out into the sea, then you are greeted with foamy spray that promises to give you a mad thrill. Swimming is also possible, though only in small recommended pockets. The rest of the beach is considered unsafe for swimming unless you are well versed with the terrain underwater.

 
But that is not the end of it. This beach line has other charms too. It has a small golden sandy stretch that is enough for relaxed beach walks. This is where the locals and tourists alike come to soak in the seaside atmosphere. This golden beach is right in front of the Dansborg fort that towers in the background.


The fishermen community are also based on this beach. After all, the entire town of Tharangambadi revolves around this small beach line. Typical beach line stalls, though much smaller in size can be seen here selling food and snack items. And the umpteen fishing boats moored on the beach here act as seats for the beach lovers.

 
This different beach line at Tranquebar truly forms an unique experience. Let’s hope that the beach remains as it is and global warming and climate change do not take this amazing nature’s gift from us in the future.

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Friday, September 17, 2010

Neemrana’s Bungalow on the Beach – A great place to spend your holiday on India’s East Coast!

This place is a 17th century British Collector’s bungalow that faces the East Coast of India in the sleepy fishing town of Tranquebar or locally known as Tharangambadi. This place was also home to the only Danish settlement in India.

 
This 17th century heritage bungalow is now the property of Neemrana non-hotel Hotels, who manage it as a luxury resort.


This hotel property is a 2 storied bungalow with a huge courtyard. Most of the courtyard is now beautifully landscaped gardens with a huge swimming pool to the east.


Everything about this place oozes royalty starting with the name of the street ‘King’s Street’ where this Bungalow is located. The bungalow from inside resembles the architecture of the 17th century.


It is entirely built with thick wood (don’t know which one) with some support from bricks. Even the beams and the pillars are built using this wood. The stairway through the centre of the bungalow, the porticos, the hallways, the high ceilings all look magnificent.


All the rooms share a similar architecture. With the exception of the air-conditioner, the loo, the water system and the water heater, everything looks like antique material, but very rich and presentable.


All the rooms in ‘Bungalow on the Beach’ are named after the Danish ships that were docked at the port of Tranquebar in the 15th, 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The one I stayed at was called Elefante. These names also help in bringing an air of charm within these rooms.


The rooms on the ground floor do not have a beach view and hence come cheaper at 3,500 rupees plus luxury tax. The rooms that have a beach view are slightly larger and come with a price tag of 5,500 rupees per night plus luxury tax. All rooms come with a verandah and a sit out. Breakfast for two people comes complimentary with the room.


For food, there is an in-house kitchen that serves a reasonable number of French and Indian dishes. Food here tastes great, but if you need your food spicy, please inform before placing your order. Alcohol is not served at this place with the exception of wine, champagne and beer.


Food prices are fairly reasonable. Per head charges would vary from 250 (vegetarian) to 500 rupees (meat-lovers). Beer, if I remember right, gets charged at 150 rupees per bottle. Am not aware about the wine or champagne prices.


In terms of luxury, the place in itself feels royal. In addition, there is a swimming pool and a lovely green garden. For sightseeing, one can visit the 13th century Chola temple, the 17th century Dansborg Fort and Danish churches which are located nearby.


In the mornings and the evenings, one can explore and enjoy the sandy Tranquebar beach and the city ruins. One can also use the ‘Bungalow on the Beach’ as a base to explore the historic and religious port town of Poompuhar and the temple district of Kumbakonam that are situated at most a couple of hours away.

 
If you are the kind of person who loves a idling vacation, then this place provides the right amount of privacy and serenity.


Neemrana, the hotel group that manages ‘Bungalow on the Beach’ also runs another property close by called ‘The Gateway’. I believe this property to be great too, though this property does not have a beach view. I will be able to provide a better report when I return to Tranquebar and stay at the Gateway, instead of the ‘Bungalow on the Beach’.


Overall, if you are the kind, who loves a luxury holiday, then this is the place. Even better, if you appreciate art and antiques. Coz, you are going to be living in a 17th century heritage collector’s bungalow. The Beach view, the serenity, the delicious French food and wine are just some add-ons.


P.S. Neemrana runs thirteen (13) such heritage luxury resorts all across India. To find out more about them, you can go to their website.

Tranquebar/Tharangambadi is a small fishing town that is situated in the Nagapattinam district of Tamil Nadu. It is located about 15 kms north of Karaikal and about 120 kms south of Pondicherry on the East Coast.

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Thursday, September 16, 2010

Eye of the Fishing Boat

During our travels, we are presented with so many different sights and some of them are really eye-catching.


Like this one, where an eye is painted on the starboard side of the fishing boat. Sometimes fishing boat owners or painters come up with some really fascinating paintings.

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Smiling Local Kids

Children are great subjects for photography and the photos ooze life if the children in them are smiling. After all, children are known for their true no-bother smiles.

 
In this photograph, I saw these kids playing on the beach of Tranquebar in Tamil Nadu. I took this photo before they became conscious of my presence. Once they became aware of me clicking their pictures, they became shy and ran away :-).

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