Ladakh’s Stakna Gompa as seen from the banks of the Indus River

This is a 16th century Buddhist monastery of the Drugpa sect in Ladakh. It is located about 25 kilometers from Leh on the banks of the Indus river. I am talking about the Stakna Gompa that is located at an altitude of 11,800 feet above MSL and that offers a fantastic view of the Hemis monastery and its nearby surroundings. The name ‘Stakna’, literally means ‘Tiger’s Nose’, because the monastery is situated on a hilltop and appears to be in the shape of a tiger’s nose. You can get a great view of this palace from the banks of the Indus river that runs parallel to the Thiksey – Shey – Leh highway.



Do not miss to see this palace from the riverside when you visit the Thiksey monastery, Shey Palace, Chemrey monastery and/or the Changa la pass. The Stok palace is also located close by and you can easily couple both these attractions along with the other nearby palaces and monasteries for a fantastic day trip from Leh.

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How to plan a dream motorcycle holiday to Ladakh?

A motorcycle ride to the highest motorable road in India is a dream trip for all motorcycle enthusiasts. It would certainly feature in the travel bucket-list of many Indian and international travelers. After all, such terrain and panorama is rare and only exists at a very few places across the world. This motorcycle ride to Ladakh in India’s Western Himalayas is dubbed as one of the top 10 best motorcycle rides in the world. However, it takes a lot of planning to complete this challenging journey. There are many things to keep in mind such as AMS, tough terrain, mountain riding experience, etc. So, the key question here is how to embark on one of India’s top motorcycle routes and successfully complete this dream motorcycle journey to Ladakh?

How do I plan the motorcycle bit?



There are 3 ways to plan your motorcycle logistics:

1) Option 1: Take your own motorcycle

This is the best option as you get to take your own motorcycle. Some riders ride all the way from their city or they ship their motorcycle to the nearest point and then ride from there. As a thumb rule, motorcycle riders to Ladakh usually prefer sending their bikes by train to Delhi or Chandigarh and then start their journey from there. You could also send your bike by road or by air. There are many options, but I personally prefer Indian railways. If you travel in the same train, the process becomes much more simpler.

2) Option 2: Rent a motorcycle at Delhi or Manali

If you do not want to take on the worries associated with motorcycle logistics, you can rent a motorcycle of your choice at Delhi, Manali or Leh. The prices are reasonable, though it is advised to check the motorcycle thoroughly before you decide to take it on your long ride. It is best to get it checked properly by a mechanic to ensure that the engine, clutch, brakes, tyres, etc. are all in good condition.

3) Option 3: Go with a motorcycle touring company

This is the option with the least headache and possibly also the safest as it comes with the service of tour guides, mechanics, doctors, etc. Such Ladakh bike trips run by motorcycle tour operators are ideal for first timers and for people with limited riding and/or mountain experience. A lot of motorcycle tour companies allow you to select your motorcycle in advance. Some even allow you to keep interchanging motorcycles during the course of the trip. Usually motorcycles in such outfits will be in good condition and in case of any trouble, you will always have access to an in-group mechanic.

How do I plan the itinerary?



Your itinerary would depend on the time you have at hand and the route you opt for.

Route 1: Manali to Ladakh via Rohtang pass and return the same way

This is the traditional and most popular route that begins at Manali. This is also the shortest route. It takes you via Rohtang pass, Tandi, Barlachala pass and Tanglangla before heading towards Leh. Acclimatization points would be Tandi or Jispa, Sarchu and Leh. Once you reach Leh, you can opt for the Leh - Khargung La- Nubra valley circuit, Leh – Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri circuit and/or Leh – Lamayuru – Alchi – Kargil circuit.
While it is possible to complete this route in 10 days, it is best to have at least 2 weeks for it.

Route 2: Manali to Ladakh via Rohtang pass and return via Srinagar



This is what I call the full Jammu and Kashmir circuit. It begins at Manali and then heads to Leh via Rohtang pass, Tandi, Sarchu and Upshi. Like in the previous option, you can explore Khardung la, Nubra valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and the surrounding monsteries. But, for your return leg, you don’t head the same way to Manali, but head to Chandigarh via Kargil, Drass, Srinagar, Patnitop and Pathankot. This route is longer, but allows you to get an experience of the lush Kashmir valley.

This route should take 14 days to complete, though I would keep 3 days as buffer for any kind of contingencies.

Route 3: Manali to Ladakh via Rohtang Pass and return to Shimla via Spiti valley

This is the magical Western Himalayan route as it allows you to experience the best of both Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh. The route starts at Manali and like the previous 2 routes heads to Leh and after seeing all tourist attractions of Ladakh, it returns the same way till Keylong. At Keylong, it diverges towards Gramphoo, Chandra Taal Lake, Kunzum pass before heading into Spiti valley. After exploring the various high altitude villages of Spiti valley and nearby Pin valley, it makes it way to Shimla and/or Chandigarh via small diversions to Sangla, Chitkul and Kalpa.

This is the longest route and will easily take at least 3 weeks. The roads beyond Gramphoo are some of the worst in the region. Hence, it is extremely essential that you are a good rider and can handle really tough off-road mountain conditions.

How do I handle AMS?



There are 4 golden rules when it comes to handling AMS or Acute Mountain Sickness.

1) You ascend slowly and spend the night at lower altitudes after completing a higher elevation during the day

2) Stay well hydrated and keep physical activity to a bare minimum during the first 48 to 72 hours

3) Try to avoid smoking and drinking during the first 48 to 72 hours



4) Descend urgently to a location of lower altitude in case you struggle big time (like high blood pressure, heavy breathlessness, blood coming out from the nose, etc.)

As a precautionary step, motorcycle riders usually chew ginger and garlic right from Manali. While this makes your mouth stink and your stomach uneasy, this allows you to fight AMS successfully. Others carry a pill called Diamox which is known to help with AMS. However, Diamox comes with a side effect of tingling in fingers and at other places. Do be aware of it.

What is the best season to visit Ladakh?



Ladakh is beautiful all year round and hence allows all year access if you fly into Leh. However, since you will be riding over the high mountain passes of the Western Himalayas, you will have to plan your ride between May and August. The rest of the year, Rohtang pass and the other high passes are closed due to heavy snowfall. The exact time of opening and closing of the mountain passes varies every year depending on the extent of snowfall. This information is usually available online so that can be checked easily.

Once the tunnel from Manali to Keylong is ready, this route will be open all year round as it will skip Rohtang pass altogether. Till that time, you will have to make do with the summer months of May through August.

Any important things to keep in mind?



Following are some important things to keep in mind before and during your ride to Ladakh:

1) There is no petrol pump between Tandi and Karu (about 350 kms). Hence, plan to carry jerry cans with additional petrol for contingencies.

2) Mountain weather can be tricky. Things can change very quickly. Stay prepared for all 4 seasons within the course of a single day.

3) The high mountain passes are extremely beautiful and begs a long stay. However, a long stay at such high altitude places with low oxygen can lead to AMS.

4) Do not block the way for Indian army vehicles. It is us who are going on their roads and not the other way around.

5) Ladakh is a pristine, yet fragile mountain region. Please refrain from littering or causing any kind of damage to this sensitive ecosystem.

6) Summer months happen to the busiest tourist season in Ladakh. Hence, it might be prudent to make all your bookings well in advance in case you wish to stay at a particular hotel or if you wish to visit a particular festival.

7) Buddhist monasteries are places of worship. Do respect the sanctity of the place by reducing your volume levels.

How do I go about inner line permits?



Inner line permits are required for some border zones in Ladakh. You can either apply for them yourself at Leh or ask someone to apply on your behalf. The process is simple and it requires your ID card, some passport size photographs, your vehicle papers and your rough itinerary. Inner line permits usually take at least a day, but if you ask for a speedier option, you could get it sooner.

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12 Top Motorcycling Routes in the Western Himalayas for the Die Hard Adventure Enthusiast

Summers can be sweltering and sultry in the plains and coastline of India, but this same season signals a vibrant change in life in the Himalayas. The melting snow, the increasing temperatures and the bright sunshine gives the entire mountainous region a makeover. Greys, whites and browns are replaced by lush green and vivid colours. The bottom half of the landscape is made up of gurgling snow fed streams and rivers, a sea of greenery interspersed with colourful flowers and a rich array of active bird and animal life. And the upper half of this landscape is dominated by the mighty mountains and their snow capped peaks. Add to this rarefied air, a pleasant nip, longer days, clean blue skies and bright sunshine and you have a heady concoction.



With the high mountain roads in the Western Himalayas being re-opened, this exhilarating experience now becomes accessible to all of us. Motorcycling enthusiasts, cyclists and road trippers…be ready as the time has come to act on your travel bucket-list for the mountains and to conquer some of the highest mountain roads in the world.



Here is a list of the 12 best motorcycling routes in the Western Himalayas. These routes are high on adventure, spectacular when it comes to panorama and absolutely surreal when it comes to overall experience. While some of these take you to the highest villages, polling stations and post offices of India, the others take you to cold deserts, gorgeous high altitude lakes, stunning high mountain passes, India’s highest astronomical observatory, serene monasteries and temples and last, but not the least, some of the highest motorable roads in the world.

Some words of wisdom before you embark on this adventurous journey:

1) Do plan for proper acclimatization or be ready for Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)

2) Dare devilry is a one way track to hell in the mountains. Remember that and plan your trips accordingly

3) Mountain weather is very unpredictable. Be prepared for snow or very cold weather at all times

4) Certain high mountain passes can get blocked at times due to inclement weather. Do ensure your trip itinerary has enough buffer

5) Some areas are perilously close to our international borders. Hence, you might require inner line permits and there can be periodic checks

1) Leh –> Khardung La –> Nubra Valley –> Turtuk



This is possibly the mecca for all motorcycling aficionados. At 17,582 feet above MSL, Khardung La, which is about 45 kilometres from Leh, is one of the highest motorable roads in the world. A steep ascent from Leh takes you to this high mountain pass and on the other side of it exists Nubra valley, one of the popular Ladakh tour places and that is famous for its double humped bactrian camels and scenic views of the Shyok river. A little beyond Nubra valley is the very remote village of Turtuk that shares more similarities with Central Asia than South Asia.

Level of difficulty: Moderate

Approximate number of days: 3 days (one way)

Accessible months: Usually open throughout the year unless there is heavy snowfall at Khardung La

Nearest airport: Leh, Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir)

2) Leh –> Chang La –> Tangtse –> Phobrang –> Marsimik La –> Pangong Tso



You might be mistaken if you think Khardung La is the highest motorable road in India. There is a slightly offbeat mountain pass called Marsimik La or Marsimek La that is even higher than it. At 18,384 feet, it is higher than Khardung La and hence owns the title of the highest motorable road in India. But, the road here is not in as good a shape as the one at Khardung La and hence only experienced motorcyclists should attempt to scale this pass. This route takes you through lovely Ladakhi countryside, beautiful mountain passes and authentic villages before arriving at the iconic Pangong Tso lake.

Level of difficulty: Difficult

Approximate number of days: 3 days (one way)

Accessible months: May to July

Nearest airport: Leh, Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir)


3) Keylong –> Gramphoo –> Batal –> Kunzum La



This has to be one of Western Himalayas’ most treacherous routes. It is made up of boulders, stones, pebbles and gushing mountain streams. This route tests the true grit and mettle of the motorcycle and its rider. Connecting the Lahaul region of Himachal Pradesh with Spiti, this route takes you to the absolutely stunning Chandra Taal lake and the heady Kunzum pass, before descending into the villages of Spiti.

Level of difficulty: Difficult (the roads are really poor) with many boulders and water streams

Approximate number of days: 4 days (one way)

Accessible months: March to December

Nearest airport: Kullu (Himachal Pradesh)


4) Leh –> Upshi –> Chumathang –> Hanle –> Tso Moriri –> Tso Kar



For most of this route, the mighty Indus river flows next to you and that too in the middle of the Changthang cold desert, where horses, Ladakhi kiangs, nomadic tribes and spectacular mountains keep you company. Apart from spectacular views, this ladakh road trip offers you the chance to visit the second highest astronomical observatory in the world at Hanle, a rich wetland in Tso Moriri and a lovely salt lake in Tso Kar.

Level of difficulty: Moderate

Approximate number of days: 3 days (one way)

Accessible months: All year round unless there is heavy snowfall on the high mountain passes

Nearest airport: Leh, Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir)


5) Manali –> Rohtang La –> Tandi –> Barlacha La –> Sarchu –> Tanglang La –> Leh



When someone talks of a Ladakh bike trip, this is what they would referring to in all probability. One of the most iconic motorcycle trips in the world, this adventure packed route takes you through some of the highest mountain passes in the world, sensational valleys, beautiful landscapes and roaring mountain rivers. If you are a motorcycle lover, this route definitely has to be on your bucket list.

Level of difficulty: Difficult

Approximate number of days: 3 days (one way)

Accessible months: May to July

Nearest airport: Kullu (Himachal Pradesh) or Leh, Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir) depending on which way you opt for this route


6) Kaza –> Ki –> Kibber –> Tashigong –> Thinam



Home to the world’s highest polling station at Tashigang and colorful gompas in harmonious surroundings, this route in Spiti valley takes you to some of the highest villages in the world. Rapidly ascending roads, steep curves and hairpin bends and heavenly vistas greet you here. I would go here to stay in these high villages and to meditate in its tranquil monasteries.

Level of difficulty: Moderate

Approximate number of days: 2 days (one way)

Accessible months: April to December

Nearest airport: Kullu (Himachal Pradesh) or Chandigarh


7) Kaza –> Langza –> Hikkim –> Komic –> Dhemul –> Chorden



While the previous route takes you to high mountain villages, this route takes you even higher. India’s highest post office at Hikkim, India’s highest village in Komic and an absolutely gorgeous village located at the base of mighty snow capped mountains in Langza are some of the treats of this route. The roads can be bad to worse, but the panoramas will more than make up for it.

Level of difficulty: Moderate

Approximate number of days: 3 days (one way)

Accessible months: April to December

Nearest airport: Kullu (Himachal Pradesh) or Chandigarh


8) Kaza –> Dhankar –> Mud –> Pin Valley



This has to one of Spiti valley’s prettiest routes. Connecting Pin valley national park with the main Spiti highway, this route is full of pristine river views, cute villages and lush nature. At Dhankar, this route also offers one of the best river confluence views in the Himalayas where the pin and the spiti rivers meet. Trekking enthusiasts will love this route as it allows them to indulge in the high altitude Dhankar lake and the various treks leading towards Pin Parbati peak and the Great Himalayan National Park.

Level of difficulty: Moderate

Approximate number of days: 2 days (one way)

Accessible months: April to December

Nearest airport: Kullu (Himachal Pradesh) or Chandigarh


9) Leh – Alchi – Lamayuru - Kargil – Zozi La – Sonmarg



The notorious Zozi La can be found on this bike trip to Ladakh. Running perilously close to the Pakistan border, a lot of military action can be seen on this route. It is home to two tranquil monasteries in Lamayuru and Alchi, it has the gorgeous confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers, it has the unique magnetic hill and stunning valleys. While the roads till Kargil are good, do expect some back breaking conditions after that, especially as you near Zozi La pass.

Level of difficulty: Moderate

Approximate number of days: 2 days (one way)

Accessible months: April to December unless there is heavy snowfall on the high mountain passes

Nearest airport: Leh (Jammu and Kashmir) or Srinagar (Jammu and Kashmir)


10) Shimla – Sarahan – Sangla – Chitkul – Kalpa

This is apple terrain. Sarahan and Sangla are famous for their apples. Chitkul is considered the last village on the Hindustan – Tibet highway. And Kalpa is home to the Kinnaur Kailash mountain view. Located in the Sutlej and the Baspa river valleys, these villages offer everything from pretty riverside to ripe apple orchards and from lovely mountain vistas to a pretty mountain holiday.

Level of difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Approximate number of days for return journey: 3 days (one way)

Accessible months: All year around unless the roads are blocked due to heavy snowfall or landslides

Nearest airport: Chandigarh


11) Leh – Padum



Recently opened, this route takes you to the heart of Zanskar valley, one of the remotest regions in Ladakh and certainly a new addition to a leh ladakh bike trip plan. This route will be cold, as offbeat as possible and will offer you some of the best views of the Zanskar river, the one that freezes to become a ‘chadar’ or carpet in the winter months.

Level of difficulty: Difficult

Approximate number of days: 2 days (one way)

Accessible months: May to July

Nearest airport: Leh, Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir)


12) Leh – Chemrey – Chang La – Pangong Tso



From lush Indus valley to mustard fields to high mountain passes and a massive salt water body, this charming route takes you through some of the most diverse landscapes of Ladakh. The offbeat Chemrey monastery, the beautiful Chang La pass, the quiet Tangtze village and the absolutely jaw dropping high altitude Pangong tso lake are its main highlights. Camping by the lake and watching the starlit Himalayan night sky is an experience to die for.

Level of difficulty: Moderate

Approximate number of days: 2 days (one way)

Accessible months: All year round unless the roads are closed due to heavy snowfall

Nearest airport: Leh, Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir)

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Shey Palace: Erstwhile Summer Capital of Ladakh

There is something special about Ladakh that keeps drawing people to it. Is it the snow clad mountains, the rarefied atmosphere, rich Buddhist culture, insanely beautiful nature or all of it? I have been to Ladakh a countless number of times. Some to different parts in different seasons and some to the same places for different occasions. Irrespective of the type of visit, I have always left a piece of my heart there and may be, that is why I have kept returning to this Himalayan kingdom.



Sometimes, even the most visited place in Ladakh like the Shey Palace, can give you such a rich experience. Shey Palace is one of the tourist attractions that is located closest to Leh and one that is insanely popular on the tourist map. Normally, I find places with huge crowds and lots of tourists a huge turn off. But, for some weird reason, Shey monastery and palace, which I have visited many times in the past, made a strong connection during my summer visit this year.



I don’t know if the connection was due to the giant statue of the seated Shakyamuni Buddha, the meditating monk inside the monastery, the smiling locals or the panoramic view from the roof top. I just felt very peaceful here during this summer visit.



From the moment you begin the climb from the main road to the palace beside the zigzagging lane of prayer wheels through the interiors of the palace, into the quiet divine rooms of the monastery and to the white pagoda on the top, that feeling of peace stays.



Overlooking the fertile Indus river valley, Shey Palace, which used to be a summer retreat for the kings of Ladakh is now mostly in ruins. Both the Shey Palace and the Shey Gompa were built in 1655, but thankfully, the Shey Gompa has stood the test of time and is now a working temple.



This Shakyamuni Buddha statue in the Shey Palace is the second largest such statue in Ladakh. This giant golden Buddha statue’s most appealing attribute is the smiling face of Lord Buddha. It was an absolute pleasure to sit in the tiny area surrounding this giant Buddha and to go around the Buddha statue watching the colorful wall paintings detailing the various stories from Buddhism.



If you feel like feeling a blast of cold air and some sensational views, you can take the narrow trail from the monastery to the top of the hill. From here, you can see the monastery, the stupa, the Indus valley and the snow capped Himalayas, all in one gorgeous view.



What is your special Ladakh experience? Do the mountains keep calling your home or you love to be enveloped by the vast emptiness here? Do share your thoughts through the comments below.

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Travel Photo: Stakna Gompa, Ladakh

Happy Avani Avittam and Raksha Bandhan to all of you! On this auspicious day, I bring to you Stakna Gompa, a gorgeous Buddhist monastery perched on top of a hill overlooking the mighty Indus river. This 16th century gompa of the Drukpa order is located on the right bank of the Indus river and is easily accessible from Leh.



If you are one of those who love quiet monasteries tucked away from the mainstream tourist trail, the Stakna monastery will definitely fit the bill. You can even stay here and embrace the tranquil atmosphere while living among the monks and the stunning surroundings.

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