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Tuesday, March 30, 2021

Kunzum La: Scenic mountain pass connecting Lahaul and Spiti Valleys

Kunzum Mata temple, Kunzum pass, Himachal Pradesh

Rohtang La, Lahaul valley and the highway to Leh lie to one side of it and to its other side lie the beautiful high altitude villages of Spiti valley. Standing tall between all these spectacular destinations lies Kunzum La, a 14, 931 feet high mountain pass in the Eastern Kunzum range of the Himalayas. The most special attribute about Kunzum pass has to be the journey to reach the top of the pass. If you are coming from Kaza, you will have to cross the semi-arid cold desert landscape of Losar and if you happen to be coming from Gramphoo, you will be crossing the treacherous Chenab river valley before you start the steep ascent from Batal.

Chandra Taal Lake - Paradise in the Himalayas

Unlike the other mountain passes in the region, the Kunzum pass is the one that offers the toughest road conditions. Mountain streams overflowing onto the roads, huge boulders falling on to the roads, umpteen landslide zones and overall steep and rough terrain greet you on this route. Add to it the absolutely gorgeous Chandra Taal lake enroute and you have a dream rugged road trip.

Kunzum la, Himachal Pradesh

Although it is not recommended to spend a lot of time on the top of high mountain passes, especially ones like Kunzum La, one can spend enough time to explore the Kunzum Mata temple, a small stupa like temple structure on the top of the pass. Visitors on this route usually stop their vehicles here for a short while to seek the blessings of the Kunzum Mata for a safe journey. One can also explore nearabouts and indulge in some photography. If you are one of those adventure lovers and if you have already acclimatized to the high altitude atmosphere, you can embark on the 15 km trek from Kunzum La to Chandra Taal lake, one of the more beautiful high altitude treks of Himachal Pradesh.

Kunzum pass is one of the more rugged, yet beautiful mountain destinations in India. If you can handle a bumpy road trip with raw nature around you, then Kunzum la is the ideal mountain holiday destination for you.

Note: Only thing to remember here is that the roads are at the mercy of mother nature here (floods, landslides, snowfall, falling rocks, etc.) and it is best to check in with the local authorities about the current state of the roads before embarking on your journey.

Stupa on top of Kunzum pass, Himachal Pradesh

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Chandra taal lake: A magical family camping destination in the Himalayas

2) Keylong: Paradise for walkers in Lahaul

3) Rohtang pass: One of the most famous mountain passes in Himachal Pradesh

4) Kibber: The village of the snow leopard

5) Langza: The Himlayan village that is known for fossils of marine animals

6) Komic: One of the world’s highest villages with road connectivity

7) Dhankar: Prettiest village of Spiti

8) Pin valley national park: A spectacular mountain national park that is home to the iconic Pin Parvati peak

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Thursday, April 14, 2016

Keylong: Paradise for Walkers in Lahaul

It is mid April and most of Telangana, Odisha and Karnataka have already hit early to mid 40s in degree Celsius and it is an ordeal just to step out into the sun. As I write this article from Hyderabad (it is 43 degree Celsius here), my mind cannot but wander to the cooler climes of the Himalayas. And one of the places that I absolutely love is Keylong, the headquarters of the Lahaul region of Himachal Pradesh.

Shashur Gompa and the snow capped peaks of Keylong, Himachal Pradesh

I have visited Keylong on three different occasions, the latest one being last late autumn. On each of these short visits, I ended up exploring different parts of this Himalayan valley town that is tucked amidst lovely snow capped peaks. Irrespective of the type of my trip, trekking, motorcycling or plain backpacking, I loved staying in this quaint town. Be it the arduous climb to Shashur Gompa and then relishing the view of the snow capped peaks with a cup of butter tea in my hands or camping at Tandi tantalizingly close to the confluence of the Chandra and the Bhaga rivers, the Keylong experience is special.

Trekking to Shashur Gompa unleashes a riot of colors and views

Even though Keylong is an important location on the famous Manali – Leh highway, many do not opt to spend more than a night here. For some reason which I cannot understand, most visitors do not wish to explore this valley town. Sure, there are lots of exotic and beautiful places near Keylong, but even this valley has so many spectacular walks to indulge in that it definitely deserves a long weekend, if not more.

Panorama from Shashur Gompa, Keylong

Be it the walk to the Kardang monastery on the opposite hill, the walk to the Bhaga river, the walk through the apple orchards, the lazy amble through the local market, the early morning riverside trail walk to Tandi while listening to the chirping of birds, the climb through farms and local houses to Shashur Gompa or the steep walk to Tayul monastery, Keylong has so many different trails that offer a variety of lazy to heart racing walks that can appeal to all kinds of walkers. The best thing is the weather, which is so conducive to walking. The slight nip in the air and the heat generated due to walking are like made for each other.

Rich colors on Shashur Gompa - the oldest monastery in Keylong

And because a lot of travelers do not opt to stay in this town for long, you can enjoy a relaxing holiday here and make this town your very own. Like most high altitude Himalayan towns, Keylong too, enjoys those misty cool mornings, late breakfasts, lazy lunches, vibrant evenings and a bustling hill market.

Bhaga river and the sensational Keylong valley

For those who need to indulge in a variety of activities during their holiday, the Trilokinath temple, the high-altitude Chandra Taal Lake, the gorgeous Rohtang La pass, the Spiti valley and Manali offer great getaways and of course Leh is just a day’s drive away from here.

Majestic Keylong view from Shashur Gompa, Lahaul and Spiti

At about 10,000 feet in the Himalayas, Keylong would be a great place to beat the summer heat. I wish I were there right now far away from this heat wave that seems to have gripped the whole of South and Central India.

Spectacular view of the snow capped peaks around Keylong as seen from Shashur Gompa

How to reach Keylong: Kullu and Leh are the nearest airports. Manali offers the easiest option for road access. Once the Rohtang tunnel is completed, it will be fairly easy to reach Keylong, but till then, one has to cross the beautiful and mighty Rohtang pass to get here. Alternately, one can drive from Kaza if you happen to be traveling from Shimla.

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Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Chandra Taal Lake: A Magical Family Camping Destination in the Himalayas

Outdoor camping and holidaying with your family in the Himalayas doesn’t seem to make a connection with most of us Indians. Whenever I indulged in outdoor camping across India and talked about my experiences with friends and family, they would always think of it as an activity for young singles. However, I always begged to differ as I believe that there is no better family bonding experience than in the raw confines of mother nature. You get to relish nature, it is a great learning curve for your kids, you get quality family time without any new age gadget distractions like mobile phone, television, computers, tablets and the likes, you get intoxicated by the pure air and you simply have a fun filled family holiday.

Stunning Chandra Taal Lake

Those of us who have traveled or lived abroad, know that outdoor camping is one of the most popular activities for families. Till the recent past, outdoor camping would interest young people or die hard adventure enthusiasts. These days, there is a new wave of families who seem to have found that interest in outdoor adventure. Well, if you are a part of one such family, you would definitely be interested in camping with your family at the high altitude snow fed Himalayan lake called the Chandra Taal. And it doesn’t matter whether you are a newbie when it comes to outdoor camping or if you have practised it down to a habit. I think you will simply love the magical experience of camping here.

Camping by the Chandra Taal Lake is an adventure in itself

This crescent shaped lake whose name literally translates into ‘Lake of the moon’ is located at an altitude of 4,300 meters (14,100 feet) in the high Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh’s Lahaul and Spiti district. Surrounded by glaciers and mighty Himalayan mountains of the Chandra Bhaga range, this turquoise lake is the starting point of the Chandra river, an important river of Lahaul and Spiti and one that joins the Chenab and the Indus later in Jammu and Kashmir.

Chandra Taal Lake - Paradise in the Himalayas

This spectacularly beautiful location makes for a great getaway due to its proximity to Manali and leads to the gorgeous Spiti valley. Adventure loving people can trek to this lake from Kunzum pass (a high altitude pass in Lahaul and Spiti area) while beginners can drive till about 1 kilometer from the lake via Batal. This flexibility allows all kinds of families to visit this snow fed Himalayan lake. While the lake and its surroundings are insanely beautiful, the real charm of this Himalayan getaway is its camp ground as it allows you to stay longer in this divine land. The camps are located about 2 kilometers from the lake and are totally surrounded by the Himalayas. With double layered wind proof winter tents, these camps offer the perfect solace in the cold nights, its Western toilets offer you the much needed home/hotel luxury and its camp fire, cosy dinners and group activities offer you that great holiday. What else do we need for an awesome outdoor camping Himalayan experience?

Trekking to the Chandra Taal Lake is full of such spectacular views

There are 2 ways in which you can reach the lake from the camp. The easier one is to drive to the top of the lake from where you can walk 1 km to the lakeside. The tougher, but more beautiful option is to do a slightly uphill 75 minute hike to the lake. This hike takes you across a small lake, amidst tall mountains and offers you breath-taking views of glaciers enroute.

Drinking water at its mountain source is quite a thrill

During the days, you can either explore the many small hikes and the beautiful views that it offers or indulge in some games with your family/friends. Evenings are nippier and hence sitting round a warm campfire and sharing stories is a great past time. And then there is the charm of sleeping in a tent surrounded by the mighty Himalayas. Due to its high altitude, nights are generally cold and sometimes in spite of your blanket and sleeping bag, you might feel cold. This is perfectly normal as most of us Indians are tropical creatures by nature  and not used to such low temperatures. But, that doesn’t mean, you can’t sleep warm. And that is where new age innovations like Warmee come in handy. I believe that air activated Warmee is the ultimate body warming solution and one that I always pack on my cold weather treks and camping expeditions. All you have to do is tear open a pack, shake it, put it next to you in your blanket or sleeping bag and drift to a warm sleep. In case you are visiting Chandra Taal during the colder months, you can also use the same Warmee body warmer inside your jacket or sweater. All in all, a perfect camping companion for young and old alike.

Epic mountain roads of Lahaul and Spiti

Here, amidst the Chandra-Bhaga range, you and your family can indulge in some off-roading, outdoor camping, Himalayan trekking/hiking, campfire dancing and so much more. In case you wish for more, you can explore Kunzum pass that is located close by or head to Kaza that is located deep in the Spiti valley and soak in its rich Buddhist culture. In fact, if you and your family are strong cyclists, I would recommend carrying bicycles with you and doing some dirt mountain biking in this gorgeous terrain. For people with a stronger will to explore and those with more time, I would recommend doing the Manali to Shimla loop via Kunzum pass, Losar, Kaza, Ki, Langza, Komic, Dhemul, Lhalung, Dhankar, Pin Valley, Tabo, Nako, Recong Peo, Sangla, Chitkul and Sarahan. This heavenly loop will take you through some of the highest villages of the world, some of the remotest parts of India, the land of India’s best Apples, the last village on the Hindustan-Tibet trail and the heavenly Kinnaur Kailash, the winter abode of Lord Shiva.

Glacier in Chandra Bhaga Range seen during trek to Chandra Taal Lake

If this place tempts you, you might be interested in reading these titbits of information about getting to this place and more.

Nearest Domestic Airport: Kullu

Nearest International Airport: Chandigarh

Closest cities: Manali, Kaza and Keylong

Scenic Chandra Taal Camping site

Closest Train Station:
Don’t even bother. This is mountainous country and the rail network is pretty far away from this location

Easiest Route: Manali –> Rohtang Pass –> Gramphoo –> Batal –> Chandra Taal Lake (Keep at least 7 to 9 hours to cover this 160 km stretch from Manali to Chandra Taal Lake as the mountain roads are in poor condition, have many streams passing over it during the summer months and is prone to slow traffic.) Manali to Batal is a designated highway, which has boulders on it. But, from 18 km track from Batal to the camp is a proper dirt track.

Recommended Commute Options: Self driven car (if you are a good driver), a car/jeep on hire from Manali or the Himachal Pradesh state buses if you are on a low budget and have the comfort of time.

Sunset over snowy Himalayas in the Chandra Bhaga range, Himachal Pradesh

Recommended Place to Stay:
Tenzin Camp. These guys are locals. The sons manage the Tenzin camp, while the parents manage the dhaba at Batal. I stayed with them and liked their company and the place so much that I would not recommend any place else. If I remember right, they charged 800 rupees per person for food (all meals), tea, western toilets, camp fires and confortable boarding with beds and blankets in tents.

Best Season to Visit: April to October

Sunset over the Chandra Taal campsite

Important Things to Carry:
Warm wear, Warmee, Hiking shoes, Sunglasses, First Aid Kit

Is it possible to visit on a long weekend?: Yes

Traveling on Lahaul and Spiti roads of Himachal is in itself an adventure

What other places can I visit during an Extended Holiday?:
Spiti Valley, Kinnaur, Keylong and Tandi, Leh, Zanskar Valley

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Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Wanna go on a Motorcycling Holiday to the Himalayas!

This July and August, Motours, a motorcycle adventure company from Bangalore is organizing 3 fully packaged motorcycle rides to the Himalayas (One way trip to Ladakh, A Ladakh/Jammu & Kashmir Round Trip and the Baspa, Kinnaur, Spiti and Lahaul Loop of the Indian-Tibet Border)! And since this is the first year since company formation, the rates are the lowest in the market.

A quick highlight can be seen in the flyer below.

A word of encouragement for all those interested, but worried about credibility of this young organization is that all these Himalayan rides will be managed and run by experienced motorcyclists including me who have travelled the length and breadth of this vast country. Also, each motorcycling package has been prepared keeping in mind all comfort and safety requirements of the rider and the pillion.

Additional facilities like getting a bike on hire, motorcycle and travel insurance and motorcycle transportation can be arranged for a nominal additional cost.

I am definitely going on this Himalayan Motorcycling Holiday! Would you want to join me?

For all kinds of questions, feel free to contact me!

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Logo Credits : Jobi T Chacko. UI/UX Credits : Murugan S Thirumalai
Copyright © 2009-2025 Sankara Subramanian C (www.beontheroad.com)
Reproduction without explicit permission is prohibited. All Rights Reserved

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