13th Century Sadashiva Temple at Nuggehalli: Offbeat Sunday Getaway near Bangalore

This place is an ideal rural getaway just three hours from Bangalore city. It has rustic charm, lush scenery and rich culture in the form of two beautiful 13th century temples from the Hoysala era. One of the temples is the gorgeous Lakshmi Narasimha temple while the other is the Sadashiva temple. In this article, I am talking about the Sadashiva temple, a fine example of Hoysala nagara style of architecture with Bhumija type superstructure that is more popular in Northern and Western India.

Built in 1249 by Bommanna Dandanayaka, a commander in the Hoysala empire, the Sadashiva temple combines a ekakuta (one shrine) with a nagara (north Indian) styled tower. Unlike the other Hoysala temples, its shrine walls and mantapa are simple with no sculptural decorations. The temple is built on a jagati (raised platform) and it consists of a garbhagriha, a sukanasi, a navaranga with porches and a Nandi mantapa. The main deity of this temple is Lord Shiva and located right in front of his garbhagriha is a large and well carved Nandi statue. The other interesting statues of this temple are its life like statue of Goddess Parvati and the unique Navagraha statues. The sukanasi has beautiful carvings on its ceilings that include the different avatars of Parvati, Soorya Narayana, Kala Bhairava, Chamundeshwari, Ganesha and Subramanya.



A Sunday day trip from Bangalore not only allows you to experience the Sadashiva and the Lakshmi Narasimha temples, but it also allows you to soak in the quiet and laidback atmosphere of a pretty little village. A traditional local breakfast and may be lunch too at any of the nearby villages or towns, two very pretty 13th century temples, being surrounded by farms and trees and a perfect excuse to soak in the sun, the fresh air and relax – Nuggehalli’s Sadashiva temple offers you the perfect Sunday getaway from Bangalore that is not only offbeat and hidden, but that is rich in art and culture and steeped in rustic charm. I recommend it with multiple thumbs up!



How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Bangalore international airport, about 144 kms away.

The nearest large railways stations would be Bangalore (144 kms away), Hassan (50 kms) and/or Tumkur (109 kms). The nearest small railway stations would be Channarayapatna and Tiptur.

Channarayapatna or Tiptur would be your nearest bus station. From here, you either have to take a not so regular bus, many shared cabs or a full cab to Nuggehalli village.

If you are riding or driving from Bangalore, the route would be Bangalore –> Nelamangala –> Kunigal –> Yadiyur –> Hirisave –> Nuggehalli. The route from Bangalore to Hirisave would be a 4-lane highway, while the route post that would be a quieter 2 lane highway flanked by lush farms and water bodies on either side.

Best season to visit:

The Sadashiva temple at Nuggehalli is open all year round. The rains and the winter months are ideal if you care for lush surroundings and pleasant weather.

As the temple is located in the middle of a small village, rituals can be more elaborate during festivals and hence they are worth watching and attending.

Temple timings:

The temple opens at 8 AM and stays open till 11 AM. And it re-opens at 4 PM and stays open till 7 PM.

Certain festivals and village events can alter these timings a bit. It is best to check with locals, who in all probability will direct you to the temple priest, who will guide you with the exact timings.



Where to stay:

Channarayapatna and Tiptur would be the nearest cities in case you are looking for decent budget accommodation.

For luxurious accommodation, you might have to head to Bangalore.

If nature is your thing, head to the coffee estates in and around Chickmagalur or Sakleshpur.

Hassan has also some quality resorts in case that type of accommodation interests you.

Where to eat:

The nearest town to find some good food would be Channarayapatna.

If better quality restaurants are your preference, try the many restaurants located between Hirisave, Yediyur and Kunigal on the Hassan – Bangalore highway. Most of the places will be open longer hours, have ample parking facilities and have good quality restrooms.

If you don’t mind traveling a bit more, try Hotel Madihalli Naveen, located just outside of Tiptur for some quality local dishes and snacks.

It might be prudent to keep some drinking water and snacks with you at all times, especially if you plan on exploring the temple at leisure.



Other offbeat Hoysala era temples nearby:

1) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Nuggehalli

2) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Javagal

3) Veeranarayana temple at Belavadi

4) Lakshmi Devi temple at Doddagaddavalli

5) Brahmeshvara temple at Kikkeri

6) Panchalingeshwara temple at Govindanahalli

7) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Hosaholalu

8) Chenna Keshava temple at Somnathpur

9) Chenna Keshava temple at Aralaguppe

10) Chenna Keshava temple at Turuvekere

11) Ishvara temple at Arsikere

12) Chenna Keshava temple at Anekere

13) Mallikarjuna temple at Basaralu

14) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Haranhalli



Other tourist attractions nearby:

1) Shettihalli rosary church ruins in the Hemavati reservoir

2) The hill station and coffee estates of Chickmagalur

3) The wide Hemagiri falls on the Hemavati river

4) The temple town of Melukote famous for its Iyengars and Puliyogare

5) The Jain pilgrimage site of Shravanabelagola that is home to the mighty Baahubali statue

6) The hill station of Kemmangundi

7) The beautiful Hebbe Falls surrounded by coffee estates

8) The absolutely photogenic Mysore palace

9) The butterfly forest of India called Bisle Ghat

10) Bhadra tiger reserve known for its tigers, river terns and leopards

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Lakshmi Narasimha Temple at Javagal: 770 year old offbeat Hoysala temple gem near Bangalore

It is a 13th century Hoysala era temple gem that is located just a few hours away from Bangalore. It is located in a small village that is associated with one of Indian cricket’s fast bowlers. I am talking about the offbeat Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy temple that is located in the pretty little laidback village called Javagal, the ancestral village of Indian cricketer Javagal Srinath.



This trikuta temple is one of many such lesser known gorgeous temples built during the reign of the Hoysala kingdom. Like most Hoysala era temples, the Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Javagal stands on a jagati (raised platform), beautiful moulding friezes and sculptures on the outer walls and lathe turned pillars, sukanasi and garbha griha on the inside. Where it differs from the other temples is that even though it is home to three shrines, it has only one shikhara. And its outer wall panel sculptures, reliefs and friezes are folkish in character and much different from the other Hoysala temples where the work is more intricate, well planned and laid out.



The main deity of this temple is Sridhara. The other two shrines are dedicated to Venugopala and Lakshmi Narasimha. As the main deity of this temple is Sridhara, some people also refer this temple to as Sridhara temple. This temple does not come under the archaeological survey of India and hence does not see much in terms of grants and regular maintenance, which is very sad, as it is an integral part of our country’s rich heritage. The main temple enclosure is full of thorns and weeds and a lot of restoration work is unscientific, but thankfully most of the original temple is still standing, even though it is a bit weather beaten.



It is a working temple and daily puja, mangalarti and archana is offered. Most people visiting this temple are pilgrims and you will hardly see any art, culture or temple lovers. That is how offbeat this temple is on the cultural circuit.

A typical visit to this temple would start with entering a mantapa with two elephant balustrades that were built in the Vijayanagara period. Then, you are greeted by a Garuda sthamba, two dwarapalas Jaya and Vijaya and then the ranga mantapa with the lathe turned pillars. From here, you can enter the main temple complex and its three shrines. If you stand in the vestibule, straight ahead would be the sukanasi and the garbha griha of Sridhara, to your left would be the shrine of Venugopala and to your right would be the shrine of Lakshmi Narasimha. The sukanasi and the vestibule connecting the 3 shrines have beautiful carvings, ceiling work and sculptures.

Now, coming to the outside of the temple, as you take a clockwise pradakshinam (circumambulation), you will notice the six equal width rectangular moldings or friezes close to your feet. Staring from the top, these friezes depict hansa (birds), makara (crocodiles), Hindu epics and other stories, leafy scrolls, horses and elephants. Right above these friezes, you will see close to 140 beautifully carved sculptures that include Chaturvimsati murtis (24 different aspects of Lord Maha Vishnu), Hari hara, Brahma, Goddess Parvati, Tandav Ganesha and more. Most of these sculptures were sculpted by the famous Hoysala temple artisan Mallitamma.



The Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Javagal is perfect for a Sunday day trip from Bangalore. It offers a beautiful mix of offbeat Hoysala temple, village atmosphere and a lush green landscape. It doesn’t matter whether you are an art, temple or culture lover, a student of archaeology or just a regular joe looking for a weekend getaway close to Bangalore, Javagal’s Lakshmi Narasimha temple and its surroundings are bound to appeal to all. I love such hidden gems and would recommend it with many thumbs up.



Temple timings:

The temple is usually open from 6 AM to 7 PM. However, in case the temple is closed, you could either ask anyone for the house of the temple priest Narayana Swamy or you can try calling him on his mobile +91 94488 94575. If the temple priest is available and free, he will open the temple premises for you.

As this is a working temple, mangalarti takes place in the morning and evening. And may be a few more times on specific festival days or when the crowd is higher.



How to reach there:

There are two routes to reach Javagal. One is via Hassan highway and the other is via Shimoga highway. Below is the full route map.

1) Route 1: Hassan highway: Bangalore –> Nelamangala –> Kunigal –> Channarayapatna –> Hassan –> Halebeedu –> Belavadi –> Javagal

2) Route 2: Tiptur – Shimoga highway: Bangalore –> Nelamangala –> Kunigal > Yediyur –> Turuvekere –> Tiptur –> Arsikere –> Banavara –> Javagal

The nearest railway stations are Kadur and Birur. The nearest large bus station would be either Banvara or Hassan.

The nearest airport would be Mangalore international airport, but the one with the best connectivity would be Bangalore international airport.



Best season to visit:

It is good to visit Javagal all year round. You might have to visit early in the summer months as the days can get pretty warm.

Monsoons and post monsoons are best to see the surroundings covered in lush vegetation.



Where to stay

Basic budget accommodation can be found at Belur and Halebid.

For something more luxurious, look up Hoysala Village resort that is located between Belur and Hassan.

For something set amidst nature, look up the plantation stays and resorts located in and around Chickmagalur.



Where to eat:

You can get tea/coffee or biscuits at Javagal. Nothing more. If you are looking for restaurants that serve decent food, you will either have to head to Banvara, Halebid or Belur.

The best bet would be Belur as it has more choices available. Hoysala village resort that is located between Belur and Hassan would be the most luxurious option.



Other offbeat Hoysala temples nearby:

1) Veeranarayana temple at Belavadi

2) Lakshmi Devi temple at Doddagaddavalli

3) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Nuggehalli

4) Sadashiva temple at Nuggehalli

5) Brahmesvara temple at Kikkeri

6) Panchalingeshwara temple at Govindanahalli

7) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Hosaholalu

8) Chenna Keshava temple at Somnathpur

9) Chenna Keshava temple at Aralaguppe

10) Chenna Keshava temple at Turuvekere

11) Ishvara temple at Arsikere

12) Chenna Keshava temple at Anekere

13) Mallikarjuna temple at Basaralu

14) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Haranhalli



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Shettihalli roasary ruins in the Hemavati reservoir

2) The hill station and coffee estates of Chickamagaluru

3) The wide Hemagiri falls on the Hemavati river

4) The temple town of Melukote famous for its Iyengars and puliyogare

5) The Jain pilgrimage site of Shravanabelagola that is home to the mighty Baahubali statue

6) The hill station of Kemmangundi

7) The beautiful Hebbe falls surrounded by coffee estates

8) The absolutely photogenic Mysore palace

9) The butterfly forest of India called Bisle Ghat

10) The world famous Hoysaleswara temple at Halebid

11) The world famous Chenna Keshava temple at Belur

12) Bhadra tiger reserve that is known for river terns, tigers and leopards

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Doddagaddavalli Lakshmi Devi Temple: One of the earliest known Hoysala Temples

This early 12th century soapstone temple happens to be one of the earliest known temples built in the Hoysala era. It is the only chatushkuta (four shrines) temple built by the Hoysala dynasty. It was the first grand temple dedicated to goddess Lakshmi in the South of India. There are many architectural aspects to it that are unique to this temple only and not found in any of the other Hoysala temples. I am talking about the architectural beauty called Lakshmi Devi temple that is located in the village of Doddagaddavalli.



Located somewhere between Belur and Hassan, the Lakshmi Devi temple at Doddagaddvalli is a rural holiday gem set amidst a sleepy village, coconut plantations and a lake. Many things about this temple are unique. It doesn’t have a jagati or raised platform that is common with other Hoysala temples. It has a combination of Kadamba and Dravidian shikharas. It has 4 shrines. And unlike the other Hoysala temples, it lacks ornate sculptures and intricate carvings. From a Hoysala perspective, it is a rather simple temple. May be, the architects started practicing their craft here.



Unlike most of the Hoysala temples, which are dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the one at Doddagaddavalli is dedicated to goddess Lakshmi Devi. Maha Lakshmi faces east and right opposite her is the shrine of Lord Shiva facing west. Goddess Kali is located facing South and Lord Vishnu is located right opposite her facing north.

As you enter the temple premises, you pass through a small hall with lathe turned pillars before you step into a courtyard with multiple shikharas showcasing Hoysala emblems. As you approach the door to this chatushkuta, you will see two large sculptures of females with intricate jewellery.



As soon as you enter the ranga mantapa, you will notice the shrine of Mahakali shrine to your left. As your eyes adjust to the dimly lit interiors, you will notice the two life size nude betalas standing guard in front of the Maha Kali shrine. While these betalas look scary, the statue of Maha Kali looks just the opposite and is very peace inspiring. She has been showcased in her Shanta Swaroop. If you look up at the ceiling right next to the Maha Kali shrine, you will notice a dancing Shiva and also Lord Shiva playing his Rudra Veena.



If you continue to look up flashing a torchlight at the ceiling, you will see the different Vaastu devatas at different directions that they are lord of. You will see Kubera and Rambha on a horse in the north direction, Agni riding on a one horned ram and holding his weapon Shakti in the south-east direction, Yama riding his buffalo and holding his danda in the South, Goddess Niruti in her human form in the south-west, and Varuna riding a crocodile in the West. In the center of the hall, you will also notice Lord Indra with his consort Indrani on his Airavat elephant.



In the main shrine, goddess Lakshmi, facing East, holds a conch in her upper right hand, a chakra in her upper left hand, a rosary in her lower right and a mace in her lower left hand. There are female attendants on both her sides. And right opposite her shrine is the shrine of Lord Shiva as Bhootanatha with his sons Karthik (Subramanya) and Ganesh on his either side. This shrine to Lord Shiva also makes it a rare Hoysala temple that has shrines to both Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu and their respective consorts.



Overall, the Lakshmi Devi temple at Doddagaddavalli is an architectural gem from the Hoysala era and is a must visit on your Hoysala temple trail. Its offbeat nature, beautiful rustic setting and unique design elements make it a top destination on the Hoysala temple trail. I absolutely love this temple and would recommend it within a heartbeat. Do remember to carry a good flashlight with you to appreciate the carvings on the ceiling.



Guide services for the temple:

If you wish to know the rich history of the Lakshmi devi temple at Doddagaddavalli, it is best to hire a government guide from Belur or Halebid and bring him over here. If you are staying at Hoysala village resort, you can also hire their in-house travel guide.

In case you don’t have access to any guide, it is best to read up a bit on the internet about this temple and ask the ASI caretaker at the temple campus to show you around and share his knowledge with you. You might want to tip the caretaker for his services.




How to reach there:

There are 2 different routes by road to approach the temple:

1) Tiptur – Shimoga route: Bangalore –> Kunigal –> Yediyur –> Turuvekere –> Tiptur –> Arsikere –> Banavara –> Belur –> Doddagaddavalli

2) Hassan route: Bangalore –> Kunigal –> Channarayapatna –> Hassan –> Doddagaddavalli

The nearest railway station would be Hassan.

The nearest airport would be Mangalore airport, but the one with the best connectivity would be Bangalore international airport.



Temple timings:

The Lakshmi devi temple at Doddagaddavalli opens at 8 AM and closes at 6 PM. The ASI caretaker / security guard / farmer stays close by. Do give a look around and shout out if you find the premises locked. This ASI caretaker will also double up as your guide in case you do not have one or you wish to know more about this beautiful temple.

The priest visits the temple in the early hours of the morning to perform the daily puja. Do get his number in advance in case you wish to offer archana or wish to watch the daily puja.



Where to stay:

If you wish for close proximity and something cheap, there are a lot of budget hotels in and around Belur and Halebid.

If you want something luxurious, look up the Hoysala village resort between Belur and Hassan.

If you wish to stay amidst coffee estates and pristine nature, look up the homestays, hotels and resorts located in Chickamagaluru. Some of these would be farm stays or plantation stays.



Where to eat:

You can hardly find anything to eat at Doddagaddavalli. If you seek a decent hotel or a restaurant, head to Belur or Halebid

If you want high quality dining with good washrooms and ample parking space, I would recommend that you visit Hoysala village resort that is located between Belur and Hassan.

If you wish to dine amidst nature, look up the restaurants in and around Chickmagalur.



Other offbeat Hoysala temples nearby:

1) Veeranarayana temple at Belavadi

2) Chenna Keshava temple at Javagal

3) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Nuggehalli

4) Sadashiva temple at Nuggehalli

5) Brahmeshvara temple at Kikkeri

6) Panchalingeshwara temple at Govindanahalli

7) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Hosaholalu



8) Chenna Keshava temple at Somnathpur

9) Chenna Keshava temple at Aralaguppe

10) Chenna Keshava temple at Turuvekere

11) Ishvara temple at Arsikere

12) Chenna Keshava temple at Anekere

13) Mallikarjuna temple at Basaralu

14) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Haranhalli



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Shettihalli rosary church ruins in the Hemavati reservoir

2) The hill station and coffee estates of Chickamagaluru

3) The wide Hemagiri falls on the Hemavati reservoir

4) The temple town of Melukote famous for its Iyengars and delicious puliyogare

5) The Jain pilgrimage site of Shravanabelagola that is home to the mighty Baahubali statue

6) The hill station of Kemmangundi

7) The beautiful Hebbe falls surrounded by coffee estates

8) The absolutely photogenic Mysore palace

9) The butterfly forest of India called Bisle Ghat

10) The world famous Hoysaleswara temple at Halebid

11) The world famous Chenna Keshava temple at Belur

12) Bhadra tiger reserve that is known for its river terns, tigers and leopards

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Panchalingeswara Temple at Govindanahalli: Only Surviving Panchakuta temple from Hoysala era

It is an offbeat Hoysala temple gem just three hours from Bangalore. This 13th century temple is one of the rare surviving Panchakuta temples from the Hoysala era. The famous sculptor, Ruvari Mallitamma, is known to have made contributions to this temple. I am talking about the Panchalingeshwara temple located in the village of Govindanahally in south-interior Karnataka.



Set in a sleepy little village called Govindanahalli, the Panchalingeshwara temple is surrounded by lush farmland and coconut plantations and located right in front of it is the Govindanahalli lake. Unlike other Hoysala temples, this temple is built directly on the ground without the pedestal and its outer walls are fairly simple and it does not have edge to edge carvings like the other Hoysala temples. There are carvings and sculptures, but not a whole lot.



Facing east, it has five shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva that run north to south. The garbhagrihas (sanctum sanctorum) of all 5 shrines are connected to a common mantapa by a vestibule with sukanasi above. A long pillared hall connects the mantapa with two porched entrances whose ceiling are supported by lathe turned pillars. Each of these porched entrances have two intricately carved nandi statues. There are 3 other nandi statues inside the mantapa, but these statues are simple and plain.



Apart from the eye catching Nandi statues, the porched entrance has 2 sets of beautifully carved dwarapalakas. These dwarapalakas stand tall on either side of the entrances to the mantapa, while the nandi stands opposite to them and faces the door. These dwarapalakas along with the carved nandi statues are the top highlight of the Panchalingeshwara temple at Govindanahalli. Inside the temple, each shrine contains one shiva lingam. These five different manifestations of Lord Shiva are called Sadyojata, Tatpurusha, Vamadeva, Aghora and Ishana. And you can also see carvings of Gaja Lakshmi at the entrances to the Garbha griha along with a set of low relief dwarapalas. In addition to the pancha lingas, one can also see statues of Parvati, Subramanya, Ganesha and Mahisasura Mardini housed in small gopurams on the outer walls of the garbha griha.



As with any Hoysala temple, the pradakshina at the Panchalingeshwara temple is also special. The Dashaavatar of Vishnu on the upper railings, dancing Ganesha, dancing Saraswati, Adiseshan Vishnu, Indra on his airavat, Lord Karthik on his peacock, Lord Krishna playing his flute, Brahma, Vamana avatar, trivikrama, Ravana lifting Kailasha, Mahisasura Mardini and the large Varaha avatar are some of the key sculptures one can see during the pradakshina.



As you go on the pradakshinam of the temple, you will notice that each of the gopurams of the 5 shrines are different. You will also notice that the last shrine looks different from the other 4 shrines. May be, it was added to the overall structure at a later date. Compared to other Hoysala temples, this one certainly feels light when it comes to intricate carvings and sculptures, but it certainly has its special elements.



If you are one that looks for offbeat temples or you are one looking for hidden day trips from Bangalore, then you will certainly enjoy the Panchalingeshwara temple at Govindanahalli. It’s rural atmosphere, its serene temple campus and its Hoysala era creative gems are bound to captivate you. I would definitely recommend this Panchakuta temple from the Hoysala era for an offbeat day trip from Bangalore. And while you are here, do make sure that you visit the other lesser known Hoysala era temples in the vicinity.



Best season to visit:

The Panchalingeshwara temple at Govindanahally is open and accessible all year round, but it looks its most beautiful self during the rains and right after it. This is when the lake opposite the temple carries water and the surrounding farms and plantations look lush and green.



Temple timings:

The temple is open from 8 AM through 6 PM. ASI staff are present at the temple premises. In case, the temple gate is locked, do look or ask around for the ASI staff.

The ASI staff will also act as a guide for you.



How to reach there:

One can take either of the two routes to reach the Panchalingeshwara temple at Govindanahalli. Both routes are more or less of the same distance, but the one via the Hassan highway is bound to be a bit faster.

Route 1: Bangalore –> Nice road exit towards Mysore road –> Channapatna –> Maddur –> Mandya –> Srirangapatna –> Krishnarajapete –> Kikkeri –> Govindanahally

Route 2: Bangalore –> Nice road exit towards Tumkur road –> Nelamangala –> Kunigal –> Yadiyur –> Hirisave –> Channarayapatna –> Tholasi –> Govindanahally

If flying, Bangalore would be the nearest airport and if traveling by train, the nearest railway station would either be Mysore or Hassan.



Where to stay:

The closest place to stay would either be KR Pete or Channarayapatna, though accommodations can be basic.

If you prefer resorts, head to Hoysala village resort near Hassan or opt for luxury properties near Chickamagalur.

If you prefer reputed hotels, head to Mysore or Bangalore.



Where to eat:

The nearest place to eat would be Krishnarajapete. There are a few good restaurants serving meals and snack items.

If you are traveling via Mysore highway, you can try the many restaurants on Mysore – Bangalore highway.

If you are traveling via Hassan highway, you can either eat at Channarayapatna or the restaurants on the Hassan-Bangalore highway, especially the ones near Hirisave and Yadiyur.



Other offbeat Hoysala temples nearby:

1) Brahmeshvara temple at Kikkeri

2) Sri Lakshmi Narayanaswamy temple at Hosaholalu

3) Chenna Keshava temple at Aralaguppe

4) Chenna Keshava temple at Turuvekere

5) Ishvara temple at Arsikere



6) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Nuggehalli

7) Sadashiva temple at Nuggehalli

8) Chenna Keshava temple at Anekere

9) Mallikarjuna temple at Basaralu

10) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Haranhalli

11) Veera Narayana temple at Belavadi

12) Lakshmi Devi temple at Doddagaddavalli

13) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Javagal

14) Chenna Keshava temple at Somnathpur



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) The temple town of Melukote

2) The panoramic Hemagiri falls

3) The magnificent Mysore palace

4) The riverine island and temple town of Srirangapatna

5) The Jain pilgrimage town of Shravanabelagola

6) Ranganathittu bird sanctuary on the Cauvery

7) The Incredible world of toys at Channapatna

8) Shettihalli church ruins

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Belavadi Veeranarayana Temple: The Hoysala Gem with 108 Lathe Turned Pillars

Allow me to take you to yet another offbeat temple gem from the Hoysala era. This temple from the 13th century is a trikuta (which means it has three shrines) and it is one of the largest temples built by the Hoysala kings. It is located at the place where the Pandava prince Bheema killed the demon Bakasura to protect the villagers. On the day of the summer solstice, the rays of the morning sun fall directly on the idol of Lord Veera Narayana deep in the garbha griha.  This amazing temple that I am talking about is the Veeranarayana temple and it is located at Belavadi, a small village just a few kilometers away from the world famous temples of Halebid and Belur.



As you park your vehicle in front of the temple and by the lane of pretty little village houses, you will notice the elephants that greet you right at the temple entrance. The jagli katte (or relaxation arena) right behind these elephants is one of my favorite areas of the temple as this is where you can put your feet up, enjoy the rustic atmosphere, the cold breeze and have a nice conversation with your family and friends while being surrounded by oodles of art and culture.



As you cross the jagali katte, you enter a mahadwara mantapa with a massive door. This door opens into the main temple complex where you are greeted by two more elephants, but these elephants are much larger in size and are much more ornate. 108 lathe turned pillars (some of them look like pineapples) greet you once you cross these large elephants. To your left is the shrine of Venugopala and to the right is the shrine of Yoganarasimha. And these lathe turned pillars and the two shrines together make the sabhamantapa and they then open into the mukhamantapa in the East. As you go further east, you come across some more lathe turned pillars, ornate pillars and the main shrine belonging to Lord Veeranarayana.

Just before I entered the sabhamantapa beyond the ornate elephants, I couldn’t stop but notice that this temple was not built on top of a jagati (raised platform) like the other Hoysala temples. As it predates most of the other Hoysala temples in the region, it’s architecture is quite unique.



As you explore the temple slowly taking multiple pradakshinams (circumambulations), you will realize that this Veeranarayana temple has 3 different styles of architecture owing to its 3 different states of development.

The first part of the temple is the shrine of Veeranaryana (East facing) and the pillars around it. This part is fairly simple in terms of architecture and is devoid of any carvings on the exterior walls. Even the carvings in its interiors are limited to the roof of the sukhanasi and the prabhavali.



In the second phase, the shrines of Venugopala and Yoganarasimha was built. One shrine was built on a square platform, while the other is star-shaped. The pillars of this complex merge into the pillars and structure of the earlier complex, thus giving the feel of one temple, but a person with a keen eye for detail will figure out the different architectural elements. Dashaavatar (the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu) can be seen just outside the shrine of Yoganarasimaha. The exterior walls of this temple complex is covered with large size statues of Hindu gods and goddesses, stories from our mythological stories and more. Varaha avatar and Kalingamardana stand out proudly even after 800 years. The gorgeous pillars and detailed roof work are the highlights here.

In the third phase, the flat roofs of the mahadwara mantapa was built and it was made to mirror the mukha mantapa. This is the simplest part of the temple.



Even though the temple was built over 3 different phases, their alignment is so precise that upon entering the temple (270 feet away from the garbha griha of Lord Veeranarayana), you can clearly see the idol of Veeranarayana. May be, that is why on the day of summer solstice, the rays of the morning sun fall directly on the idol of Veeranarayana even though he is located deep into the temple complex.



Compared to the other modern Hoysala temples, the Veeranarayana temple at Belavadi is definitely simple when you think of intricate carvings, but its architecture is unique. It’s lathe turned pillars, pineapple pillars, bell shaped pillars, ornate elephants, roof carvings and overall large temple size make it an architectural masterpiece in the world of Hoysala temples.



At just 220 kms from Bangalore, it makes for a great day trip or weekend getaway. Do visit this offbeat temple gem from the Hoysala era on your next weekend road trip from Bangalore. I am sure you will really enjoy its rustic ambience and unique architecture. I definitely recommend the Belavadi Veeranarayana temple to all art, culture and temple lovers.



Guide services for the temple:

There are no official guides available at this temple. However, if you strike a conversation with the temple priest, he will share a lot of details about the temple. In case the temple priest is unavailable, there is a temple caretaker from ASI who would give you some basic information about the temple.



How to reach there:

There are two different routes by road to approach the temple. Both of them take about 4 to 5 hours for the one way trip (about 230 kms or so).

1) Tiptur – Shimoga route: Bangalore –> Kunigal –> Yediyur –> Turuvekere –> Tiptur –> Arsikere –> Banavara –> Javagal –> Belavadi

2) Hassan route: Bangalore –> Kunigal –> Channarayapatna –> Hassan –> Halebeedu –> Belavadi

The nearest railway stations are Kadur and Birur.

The nearest airport would be Mangalore airport, but the one with the best connectivity would be Bangalore international airport.



Temple timings:

The Veeranarayana temple at Belavadi opens at 8 AM and closes at 6 PM. The temple priest lives in the house right opposite the main temple entrance. So, you can always drop in and check in case the temple is closed.



Where to stay:

If you wish for close proximity and something cheap, there are a lot of budget hotels in and around Belur and Halebid.

If you want something more luxurious, look up the Hoysala Village Resort between Hassan and Belur.

If you want to stay amidst nature, look up the homestays, hotels and resorts located in Chickamagaluru. Some of these would be farm stays or plantation stays.



Where to eat:

You cannot find anything more than biscuits and tender coconut water. If you seek some better food, you will either have to head to Belur or Halebid.

If you want high quality dining with good washrooms and ample parking space, I would recommend that you visit Hoysala Village Resort that is located between Belur and Hassan.

If you want to eat in nature, look up the restaurants in and around Chickmagalur.



Other offbeat Hoysala temples nearby:

1) Lakshmi Devi temple at Doddagaddavalli

2) Chenna Keshava temple at Javagal

3) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Nuggehalli

4) Sadashiva temple at Nuggehalli

5) Brahmesvara temple at Kikkeri

6) Panchalingeswara temple at Govindanahalli

7) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Hosaholalu

8) Chenna Keshava temple at Somnathpur

9) Chenna Keshava temple at Aralaguppe

10) Chenna Keshava temple at Turuvekere

11) Ishvara temple at Arsikere

12) Chenna Keshava temple at Anekere

13) Mallikarjuna temple at Basaralu

14) Lakshmi Narasimha temple at Haranhalli



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Shettihalli rosary church ruins in the Hemavati reservoir

2) The hill station and coffee estates of Chickamagaluru

3) The wide Hemagiri waterfalls on the Hemavati river

4) The temple town of Melukote famous for its Iyengars and delicious Puliyogare

5) The Jain pilgrimage site of Shravanabelagola that is home to the mighty Baahubali statue

6) The hill station of Kemmangundi

7) The beautiful Hebbe Falls surrounded by coffee estates

8) The absolutely photogenic Mysore palace

9) The butterfly forest of India called Bisle Ghat

10) The world famous Hoysaleswara temple at Halebid

11) The world famous Chenna Keshava temple at Belur

12) Bhadra tiger reserve that is known for its river terns, tigers and leopards

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