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Thursday, October 29, 2009

Sunderbans Tiger Reserve – of man-eating tigers, mangrove forests and the largest estuarine delta in the world in West Bengal, India

Of days gone by...this March during my solo all India motorcycle journey…

After my visits to Agra and Varanasi, I went to the small industrial town of Jamshedpur to relive my childhood memories. The city hadn’t changed much. Though, I got an opportunity to meet folks and family from days gone by. After spending a good 4 days at Jamshedpur, I was plonked at my school friend’s residence(s) at Kolkata. It was a great relaxing week after nearly 4 months of non stop travel. That one week, I was back to being a normal human being – checking my email, visiting pubs, watching movies, going out shopping and being in the company of a lot of friends. But soon, I got fidgety again and the time had come for me to go to my next destination – Sunderbans Tiger Reserve. Since, the Sunderbans tiger reserve is deep inside the estuarine delta, I decided to leave my motorcycle behind at my friends place in Kolkata and opt for the 2 night/ 3 day wildlife package offered by the Sunderbans Tiger Camp, a lovely and well run resort in the village of Dayapur and bang opposite to the Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary – the tourist part of the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve. If I remember right, the entire package costed me Rupees 4,430, which included accommodation in a ethnic hut, all meals and multiple boat safaris – the only way one can explore the Sunderbans.

So it was one cloudy morning that I got picked up from Priya Cinema, Deshapriya park on Rashbehari Avenue in the heart of Kolkata. I was joined by a backpacker from Bangalore, a couple from England and a student couple from Germany. So off we went in a Tempo Traveler (a 12 seater van) to the last drivable point of Gosaba. The entire road journey took us close to 2 and a half hours. We were treated to some snacks during this journey.

Once we reached Gosaba, we found that there was a large 30 seater launch boat that was waiting to take us to the Sunderbans Tiger Camp in Dayapur. I was amazed at the expanse of the mighty waterway at Gosaba. It was so wide that I could not make out the other shore. The trip down the river was poignant and unforgettable. As we neared Dayapur, there was a dramatic change in the surroundings with huge tracts of mangrove forests coming into view. During the cruise, I spotted tiny fishing boats that were there to trap the bounty of the rivers. During the cruise, our guide let us know that traditionally the locals have lived off the river as well as the forest, by trapping, felling, hunting and collecting honey and wax as the common sources of subsistence. But, after these activities were banned by the forest department in 1978, people have managed with fishing, basic farming and occupations with the various tourist camps.

We reached Sunderbans tiger camp after the 3 hour long boat cruise. The tiger camp resort is set in a great location and offers great value for money. Post lunch, we went on a short boat cruise into some minor water channels and into the Sajnekhali tourist enclosure to get more knowledge on the Sunderbans before returning to the camp to watch a movie on Sunderbans and to bear the wrath of the unusually huge mosquitoes here.

It was an early wake up call the next day as it was time for our morning boat safari into the interiors of the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve. The mist and the refracting early morning sun gave us a great reception. As the cruise started our forest guide let us know that it is very difficult to spot the Royal Bengal Tiger in the Sunderbans and this message became true when I didn’t get to spot a tiger in my 3 days here. He also let us know that the tigers in the Sunderbans have learnt to survive in this extremely hostile territory – they are expert swimmers, drink salty water and feed on fish and crabs and this is primarily the reason why the tigers of the Sunderbans are dubbed as “Man Eaters”. It is this extremely hostile territory – lack of fresh water, high and low tides, slippery and slimy mud that allows the prey to slip away, short, but hard mangrove plants that cause pain to the soft and sensitive feet of the tiger, the periodic effect of cyclones, heavy winds and monsoons that make the tiger to scout for easy food. And this comes begging with the close by villages and settlements and their livestock, cattle and the human babies. And there is bound to be a confrontation with the human when this proximity increases.

Over the 3 days, we went on 4 boat safaris into different creeks, channels and waterways, took a canopy walk in the south-west of the sanctuary, climbed multiple watchtowers and all those led us to see and appreciate the rich ecosystem (mangroves, estuarine delta system, aquatic species, birds and large mammals) of the Sunderbans. The ne thing that amazed me the most was the variations in the water levels in the estuarine system due to the tides. At some times, water level went up/down by as much as 25 feet. At one point, when we disembarked from the boat, the water level was pretty high. 6 hours later, I had to climb down 20 steps, climb a ladder to reach the boat and to avoid all the slush of the tidal mud flats.

Following is the rich wildlife and plant life that I got to see at the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve. Basically, a great place to spot fish eating birds, some very rare birds and estuarine aquatic species apart from the elusive Royal Bengal Tiger.

Birds Black Capped Kingfisher, Indian Pond Heron, Little Egret, Little Cormorant, Common Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, Little Green Bee Eater, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Common Myna, Chestnut headed Bee Eater, Jungle Crow, White-Bellied Sea Eagle, Large Egret, Black Drongo, Lesser Whistling Duck, Osprey, Spotted Dove, Green Imperial Pigeon, Red Vented Bulbul, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Iora (A rare one), Small Blue Kingfisher, Collared Kingfisher, Whimbrel, Dunlin, Brahminy Kite, Pallas’s Sea Gull, Purple Sunbird, White-Bellied Fantail (A rare one), Rufous Woodpecker (Again, a rare one).

Mammals Spotted Deer, Wild Boar

Aquatic Species
Red Fiddler Crabs, Mudskipper, Large Edible Crab

Reptiles
Monitor Lizard (a couple of huge ones), Estuarine Crocodile, Olive Ridley Turtle, River Terrapin

Mangroves
Hental, Pneumatophore and others (don’t remember their names, but I guess I could identify at least 10 different varieties)

Overall, a great 3 days for me and when I reached my friend’s house at Kolkata, I was very happy with my wildlife and nature experience at the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve. It is definitely on my all time favourite list and I will always visit this place when an opportunity comes my way!!

To see India through the eyes of a motorcyclist’s lens, visit the album below.

my solo all-india motorcycle journey

About Sunderbans Tiger Reserve
Sunderbans is the largest single tract of a unique mangrove ecosystem in the world, and spreads over 26,000 sq km. It forms the lower part of the Ganges delta, extending about 260 km along the Bay of Bengal, from the Hooghly river estuary in India to the Meghna river estuary in Bangladesh. About 9,630 sq km of the ecosystem falls in India, and the reserve forest sprawls across 4,263 km of this expanse. About 60 percent of the total area of the ecosystem falls in Bangladesh.

The Sunderbans Tiger Reserve, created in 1973 was part of the then 24-Parganas Forest Division. In 1985, the National Park area of the reserve was included in the list of World Heritage Sites and the entire Sunderbans area was declared a Biosphere Reserve in 1989. The origin of the name Sunderbans is linked to the Sundari trees (Heriteria fomes) typical of the region. There are 64 plant species in the Sunderbans suited to survive in extreme conditions and saline inundation that occurs as a result of tidal effects. The Sunderbans is one of the world’s largest and most unique wetlands. Every 12 hours, high tide inundates the mangroves spread along either side of the network of water channels here. At low tide, one can see expanses of exposed mud ‘flats’.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Corbett Tiger Reserve – India’s First National Park

Of days gone by...this March during my solo all India motorcycle journey…

Jim Corbett National Park is located in the Ramganga valley near the Himalayan foothills. Nestling in the foothills of the mighty Himalaya, Corbett tiger reserve lies mainly in the hilly districts of Nainital, Almora and Pauri Garhwal. This present 1318.54 sq km tiger reserve was established in 1936 when Governor Malcolm Hailey created India’s first and (the world’s third) National Park. The terrain is hilly, ranging from 600-1,100m above sea level, consisting of mixed deciduous forests of sal and sheesham trees and the ubiquitous lantana bush, and open, grassy pastures known as chaurs. The chaurs make up around one-tenth of the core area and make ideal grazing ground for the park’s large population of wild elephants. The park is home to around 580 bird species, 50 mammals, and at least 25 reptile species, including the Indian python, cobra and krait.

After following the rivers Yamuna and Ganges in Uttarakhand for more than a week, I made my way to the Corbett Tiger Reserve. I reached Corbett Tiger Reserve after crossing the spiritual towns of Rishikesh and Haridwar and after a brief lunch stop at IIIT Roorkee to meet my fellow wildlife enthusiast friend. As soon as I reached Ramnagar, I checked into a hotel on the main market road and headed towards the forest department office to book my accommodation and hire a gypsy.

The idea was to book my accommodation at the Dhikala Forest Rest House, which is right in the middle of the Corbett Tiger Reserve, about 50 kms from the town of Ramnagar. The Dhikala Forest Rest House is situated at a slight altitude beside the Ramganga river and offers luxury and budget accommodation to tourists in an enclosed compound. Accommodation costs start from Rs 150/night for the dormitory to Rs 2,500 for the palatial bungalows. Bookings can be made either online or at the respective Corbett forest booking centres at Ramnagar and at other nearby centers. Per day cost for a gypsy (open jeep) varies from Rs. 2,000 to Rs. 5,000 for 24 hours depending on the tourist and holiday season. The gypsy will start from Ramnagar at 1 pm, provide a tour of the Corbett Tiger reserve and stay with the tourist through the night at the Dhikala forest rest house. They will then provide us 2 safaris during the day. Though, it is mainly one good wildlife safari during the morning hour and one so-so safari during the later half of the morning. Finally, they drop the tourist at Ramnagar by 1 pm. Apart from these, the tourist has to bear some entry costs that include entry for the tourist party, entry fees for the camera and video camera, entry fees for the driver and forest guide fees.

The Corbett tiger reserve is bisected by the Ramganga river, running broadly south-south west, and the Kosi rover, and their many tributaries. The park also encompasses the Kalagarh dam, where the Ramganga creates a large reservoir – a great attraction for the many species of migratory birds that flock here during the winter months. The rivers are populated with Mahseer and other fish, which support a variety of aquatic and water-side life, including gharial and mugger crocodiles.

Corbett Tiger Reserve has tow main tourist zones. To the south-east, nearest to Ramnagar, is the smaller portion called the Bijrani range (entry through Amdanda gate). This area is preferred for day trips and makes for excellent wildlife tracking by jeep. The other, much larger, range is collectively referred to as Dhikala. Entry here is through the Dhangari gate and is restricted to those who have a permit to stay overnight in any one of the five Forest Rest Houses within this section of the park. Each of these rest houses have superb locations – Dhikala being the largest and the most popular, sited by the reservoir of the Ramganga river which in turn is surrounded by vast grasslands.

The gypsy drive from Ramnagar to Dhikala offers great sights. The entire route is made up of dense green cover and there are these small, but bad stretches of road that are damaged every year by the overflowing tributaries of the Ramganga and the Kosi rivers. The entire drive from the Dhangari gate to the Dhikala forest rest house provided me with sightings of spotted deer, sambar deer, barking deer and a lot of terrestrial birds. The entire place is so picturesque.

Upon reaching the Dhikala Forest rest house, I went about exploring the wired enclosure, the various accommodation options and the nearby wildlife. There are a couple of options to dine here. One at the main restaurant, which is slightly pricey or at the forest canteen which offers decent food for an affordable price. Bonnet macaques and common langaurs throng this place as they would in forests anywhere else in India. I got great views of large herds of spotted deer and wild boar grazing by the banks of the Ramganga. Grey hornbills and purple sunbird were spotted by me in plenty during the late hours of the evening.

It was post sunset that I befriended a lot of groups here. A couple of avid birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts, a family from Jamshedpur who were related to my 1st standard class teacher and a couple from Mumbai who were professors in IIT Mumbai. The family from Jamshedpur were very kind to treat me to dinner at the forest canteen. It was late in the night that I spotted a small group of spotted deer that had come to graze in front of my dormitory.

It was early next morning, when we left for the wildlife safari. We diligently followed the signs of the tiger and even heard a lot of alarm calls go by, but were unlucky not to spot one. However, having said that, the wildlife experience was not bad at all. In fact, it was a rich wildlife catch for my eyes and my lens.

Following were the mammals and reptiles that I sighted at Corbett Tiger Reserve: Gharial, Barking deer, Spotted Deer, Sambar Deer, Wild Boar, Common Mongoose and the Great Asian Elephant.

Following is my rich bird sighting at the Corbett Tiger Reserve: Indian Grey Hornbill, Red Vented Bulbul, White Eared Bulbul, Spotted Dove, Common Myna, Purple Sunbird, Indian Pond Heron, Common House Crow, Pied Bushchat, Common Stonechat, Crested Serpent Eagle, White-necked Stork, Black Shouldered Kite, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Greater Grey-Headed Fish Eagle, Grey Jungle Fowl, Red Jungle Fowl, Indian Peafowl, Grey Francolin, Black Francolin, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Plum headed parakeet, Lesser Coucal, Brown Fish Owl, Small Blue Kingfisher, White Breasted Kingfisher, Indian Roller, Small Green Bee Eater, Blue-Bearded Bee-Eater, Little Scaly-Bellied Green Woodpecker, Small Yellow Naped Woodpecker, Rufuous-backed Shrike, Bay-backed Shrike, Black Drongo, Pied Fly Catcher Shrike, Rufuous Bellied Babbler, White-throated Fantail Flycatcher, Blue Whistling Thrush, Tickell’s Flowerpecker, Small Sunbird and Crested Bunting.

The wildlife is so rich here, that I would always grab an opportunity to visit the Corbett Tiger Reserve with or without a tiger sighting!!

To see India through the eyes of a motorcyclist’s lens, visit the album below.

my solo all-india motorcycle journey

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Bandhavgarh National Park - in tiger territory!!

An event of days gone by...last December during my solo all india motorcycle journey...

Bandhavgarh National Park lies in eastern Madhya Pradesh, in the northernmost spur of the Maikal hill range in the Vindhyas, which it shares with Kanha (located 160 km to the South), in Shahdol district. Bandhavgarh National Park has the highest tiger density of all national parks in India.

My friend and I had ridden from Pench National Park via Seoni and Jabalpur to Umaria. It was the Christmas-New Year holiday season and we did not find any decent accommodation at Bandhavgarh. Hence, me and my friend opted to stay at the nearest town, Umaria, about 36 kms from Bandhavgarh National park.

Due to unforeseen circumstances, we had to stay at Umaria for 10 days. On most of the days, we would leave our hotel premises at 4 in the morning and ride 36 kms of rattling roads in freezing temperatures to reach the tiger reserve in time for the morning jungle safari.

Bandhavgarh is a 448 sq km of land with ranges of flat-topped hills on its flanks and the high hill of Bandhavgarh fort (811 m) in the centre, dominating the landscape. Large meadows such as the Chakradhara and Sehra, and swampy ground like the Sidhababa Meadow, lie at their feet. It is bounded by the Sone river in the east, the Johilla river in the south and drained by the Umrar river in the west.

The topography changes from the sal forest and bamboo to grassland around the nallahs and swampy terrain. There are four entrances to the park: Panpatha in the north, Tala in the east, Dhamokar on the south-western perimeter and Khitauli on the west. Two roads, the Umaria-Rewa highway and the Parasi-Katni road via Khitauli pass through the park.

We took umpteen safaris from the Tala and the Dhamokar entrances and each of these safaris were worth the bone-chilling weather and dust as they allowed us to see and appreciate the jungle from different angles. It got even better when we befriended 3 folks, who turned out to be fellow wildlife enthusiasts.

Following pugmarks, keeping an ear open for alarm calls, smelling the air, keeping our eyes open just took our excitement to higher levels. And, it turned into total peace and awe when we saw the majestic ROYAL BENGAL TIGER, all muscle and sinew in his flame-orange coat ambling across our jeeps.

A very rich wildlife experience where we ended up spotting sambar deer, spotted deer, wild boar, pea cock, common mongoose, jackal, red-headed vulture, white breasted kingfisher, black drongo, indian roller, spotted owlets, blue jay, crested serpent eagle, common langaur in addition to the Royal Bengal Tiger.

And there is also the endlessly varied beauty of the forest itself, made different at every moment not just by terrain, but by mood and ambience contributed by a trick of light, of weather, of temperature.

The only sad part in this overall great "tiger' experience is the chaos that the unruly tourist crowds cause. Take a look at the picture on the right. About 50 jeeps made "MAD RUSH" to see the tiger. Cacophony rang at every corner as excitement levels rose on seeing a tiger. Some cheer, some talk gibberish, some scream...And all this disharmony even disturbs the usual proud and calm tiger. Why don't people realize that they are in the wild and should preserve some sanctity when they are not in their HOME?

To see India through the eyes of a motorcyclist's lens, visit the album below.