One such gorgeous railway route that I came across recently is the newly reopened Kollam – Sengottai railway route that passes through the lush green heart of the Western Ghats. About 114 years old, the Kollam-Sengottai route, was the first railway line in the erstwhile Travancore state and it connects the coast of Kerala to the plains of Tamil Nadu, the East coast and all the way up to Chennai.
This railway line is in an area that I call the India’s deep south and it is full of tropical rainforests, evergreen forests, waterfalls, national parks, tiger reserves, wildlife sanctuaries, stunning bridges, tunnels, lots of rubber and spice plantations and umpteen hectares of paddy fields. In simple words, if you happen to be a nature lover, this lesser known mountain railways of Kerala and Tamil Nadu is meant for you to explore and experience.
The Thenmala Eco tourism zone, the Shendurney Wildlife Sanctuary and the Kalakad Mundanthurai tiger reserve are the main stretches of forest located on this route. They are bound to appeal to everyone with their rich animal and bird life. The Palaruvi, Kazhuthurutti, Courtrallam and Agastyar falls are the famous waterfalls that fall on this route. And bathing is allowed on a few, which makes them extremely popular destinations in this hot tropical region. Then, there are so many famous temples on this route that are possibly on every itinerary of a Sabarimala pilgrim. For starters, there is the Arayankavu Sastha Temple, the Achankoil temple, the Tenkasi temple, the Papanasam temple and so many others. And then are enough and more traditional villages in this region that will appeal to you with their unique cultures, traditions, food and nature.
You could either take any long distance train plying on this route or if you happen to have more time at hand, you could take the passenger trains and explore each small attraction that makes this region so special and charming. And while you are at it, don’t miss the many arch bridges that fall on this route, especially the 13 arch bridge or the Pathimoonu Kannara Palam at Kazhathuruthi and the Aryankavu – Puliyar (Kottavasal) tunnel. You could experience it both by being on the train when it crosses the bridge or climb to the top from the highway roads under it. Either way, the lush green forest landscape with the arch bridge and the tunnels, makes for a surreal sight. Be prepared for heavy gusts of wind, though as these points are like natural wind tunnels.
If you dig train journeys and are on the lookout for offbeat routes, I would recommend taking a ride on the Kollam-Sengottai railway line and experience the Western Ghats from its heart. Nature lovers, you are bound to go bonkers!
A huge food basket with theplas, chappatis, idlis, namkeen, savouries and a lot of other delicious food, a big Milton jug to store cold water for the entire family, a pack of cards, some Jeffrey Archer, Robert Ludlum, Tinkle, Chandamama and other books, a twinkle in my eye, a joy in my stride and oodles of curiosity…that’s how I remember my childhood train sojourns when my family and I would travel by train from the Eastern part of the country (Jamshedpur) to the Southern part (Kallidaikurichi, Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu).
This journey made in the peak summer months would take somewhere close to 55 hours. Even though, we traveled by the sleeper class, I don’t remember it ever being inconvenient, though I do remember smelling like the train and feeling the rocking of the train in my body for days after the train trip. All I remember is the game of cards with family, the tunes of Antakshari with other train travelers, the umpteen number of books I read, getting down at every station to fill water from the taps at each station, digging into fresh lip smacking savouries at different stations (Puri Bhaji for breakfast at Rourkela, Jhaal Muri and Chanachur on the train especially in Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal and Orissa, Mango delicacies at Rajahmundry, Bananas at Anakapelle and hot piping Idli Vada Sambar in the South), standing next to the train doors at every major bridge (the highlight was always the Godavari river bridge crossing near Rajahmundry) and so many other delightful childhood train memories.
I am sure many of us Indians have similar memories of travel travel in India. I think it was an integral part of my childhood and my passage into adulthood. Unfortunately, now, we don’t travel by trains as much as we prefer air travel. While air travel is very effective, both in terms of cost and time these days, it doesn’t offer the romance that Indian railways does. Which is why I had wanted to go on a long train journey in India for a bloody long while. And what better train journey than India’s longest train journey and one of the best train journeys the world over to feel the romance of train travel once more.
This train, called the Vivek Express, starts at Kanyakumari, the Southern tip of India and travels all the way to Dibrugarh in the far North eastern part of India. I had booked myself tickets on this train on four different occasions and ended up cancelling the first three due to various reasons. Thankfully, I somehow managed to board this train the fourth time around and ended up completing the entire journey.
Covering a distance of 4,233 kilometers, this Vivek Express train traverses through eight Indian states – Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, Odisha, West Bengal, Bihar, Nagaland and Assam. I spent 4 nights and 5 days in this India’s longest train and if I remember right the journey took close to 90 hours. In terms of absolute numbers, the Vivek Express holds the record for the longest route in the Indian subcontinent, both in terms of distance as well as time.
For me, it wasn’t the record status that egged me on, but the fact that I would get to experience a long Indian train journey after close to 18 years. I traveled on the train in a 2nd AC compartment as I could not garner enough courage to travel by sleeper class in the warm weather. Especially for such a long journey! May be, I should have realized then itself that I had changed, but didn’t and had to actually experience the entire journey to realize that I am the not same person that I was 20 years ago.
Well, don’t get me wrong, I was supremely excited to be on board the train and really enjoyed the entire train journey. And didn’t find it tiring too. But, those card games, antakshari sessions and that childlike sparkle for train journeys wasn’t there. I had to experience India’s longest train ride to realize that. May be, somewhere in the past two decades, I had grown older in my head and may be evolved differently in how I perceive travel.
Indian Railways still has the charm, the facilities are definitely better, but, us people, we have changed. The connection with gadgets has robbed us of those interesting train companions. Such companionship still does exist, but only in parts and that too once you cross the Northern stretches of West Bengal coz until that point, India is fairly well developed and people have lots to do and are definitely occupied in their head.
Food served on the train is simple and good, but I so wished that they served something aside from potatoes and dal every day. Food served on the train stations is sub standard and so is the water. That is one definite change from my childhood days when both food and water served on the train stations were of good quality. These days, people don’t necessarily travel with huge food baskets and instead live on the offerings of the train’s pantry car and the food stalls at the stations. Today, there is more packaged food and bottled water, which I consider the bane of today’s world. Somewhere in between, there is this vendor from the countryside who prepares lip smacking Jhaal Muri that instantly teleports you to those train journeys of the eighties and the nineties and may be, the juicy mangoes of Andhra Pradesh that haven’t lost their deliciousness. But, apart from that, there wasn’t any food related aspect of the train journey that made my memory jog to my younger days. Even a good ‘ol cup of tea has lost its zing in today’s world and I see that as a huge change in our country over the past 20 years.
The highlight of the train journey is the lush greenery, dense forests, tea estates, gorgeous countryside and a true connection with India’s yesteryear roots when the train traverses from New Jalpaiguri (West Bengal) on the 4th day to Dibrugarh (Assam) on the 5th day via Alipur Duar, Guwahati and Dimapur. These two days set a fantastic precedent to a holiday in India’s amazing North East. I am pretty sure that the views would be similar when the train traverses in Kerala, but unfortunately, this travel takes places in the night. Likewise with the iconic Godavari bridge, which again passes by in the late hours of the night. The Mahanadi river, Bhubaneshwar and Cuttack come by during the day, but for some reason, the landscapes look bleak. Some parts before and after Malda are also extremely beautiful and this is also the area where the train starts getting delayed.
Like I mentioned before, some amount of charm and romance is still intact in an Indian train journey, but things are very different otherwise. May be, it is because, we have evolved as different travelers! Or may be, India has vastly changed in the past 20 years. The local food and drinks is definitely a low point. But, some high points still exist and which is why train travel in India will continue to mesmerize one and all. And like me, you will have stories and possibly share those memories with the world! India’s longest train journey was definitely a special experience for me and it certainly help me relive my younger days.
About the Train
The train that I am talking in this article is called the Vivek Express. It carries the train number 15905 for the one traveling from Kanyakumari to Dibrugarh and 15906 for the return journey. It travels only once a week for either direction.
Train journeys have that romantic old world charm and thus are popular all over the world. Throw in regal luxury, outstanding levels of service, a special culinary experience and the best destinations of that region and you have a travel product that commands awe and respect. The Golden Chariot train is one such luxury holiday experience. It offers a luxury holiday concept that is the first of its kind in South India and if it has to be compared with a similar travel product idea, I would compare it to the ‘Palace on Wheels’ train from the North of India.
The Golden Chariot train is pure luxury on wheels! And I am not saying this because I read about it. I am saying this because I experienced it for myself when I traveled on the Golden Chariot train about 5 weeks back. I lived on this uber luxurious train for 8 days and 7 days while we went on the ‘Pride of South’ route that takes people through the best tourist attractions of Karnataka and then ends at the beaches of Goa.
Right from the time I stepped foot into this train to the time I sadly got off, I was love struck and could be found smiling from ear to ear. That’s what happens when you are pampered continuously while exploring the best of Karnataka in total luxury.
Let’s Discuss Facilities on Board the Train
I have to tell you about how the train looks inside. And I will definitely not be surprised if you don’t believe everything I say.
Let’s start with the rooms. There are no berths, but full fledged centrally air conditioned private rooms with double beds or twin beds (depending on your request), LCD television, a table with chair, attached bathroom with running hot and cold showers, lots of electrical charging points and facilities that we typically associate with 4 or 5 star hotels. There are 4 such rooms in each compartment along with a common lounge area to read the newspaper, to enjoy a cup of coffee or to simply stretch your legs. And each compartment has its own private butler who is on call 24 hours every day and who offers an un-paralleled level of service.
Each compartment on the train is named after a famous kingdom of the South, like Hoysala, Vijayanagara, Chalukya, etc. My home for these 7 nights/8 days was in the Vijayanagara kingdom.
A couple of train cars away was the business center, spa salon and gym. Yes, a moving gym. And I worked out a couple of days while the train was moving. It was quite an experience.
Then comes the twin dining areas. One compartment is devoted to a kitchen and breakfast dining area, while the other one is devoted to a lunch/dinner dining area.
After the dining cars is the bar lounge where live performances, parties and celebrations are held. And then after it are the rooms again.
I think in overall, the train can accommodate about 50 to 60 guests. This is in addition to the staff.
Pampered with Excellent Service
While the train in itself is definitely a unique luxurious holiday product, no holiday is complete without that special feeling. If I had to pick one standout feature about this train trip, I would have to say ‘Mind blowing Hospitality’. Right from the operations manager to the chef and from the butlers to the waiters and other service personnel, everyone had just one thing in mind and that was to please their guest. Their smiling faces, their humble demeanor, their attention to detail and their noble intentions of ensuring the best holiday for the guest won me over. To me, luxury without hospitality is empty. And here, I had both in good measure and hence was pampered like never before.
A special thanks to all the super knowledgeable tour guides who joined us at different destinations and shared their incredible knowledge with us.
Heavenly Food
As someone who has traveled by train in India a lot, I don’t have nice things to say about the food served on board. But, at the Golden Chariot, it was the other extreme and by that I mean a very pleasant one. Five star quality food and real delicious at that was served at every meal on board. The chef on board personally attended to everyone’s dietary needs and other whims and fancies and unleashed his culinary riches that pleased one and all.
Every single bite that I had was so good that I don’t know where to start. I could have just lived on the desserts served or may be just the soups. Both of them were absolutely delicious. The soups were so good that I would eagerly wait for the soup as if it were the star attraction. Now, that’s not something that you hear every day.
There was a different menu for each meal. There were two options for vegetarians and two options for meat lovers. Cuisines ranged from continental to a wide variety of Indian styles. Irrespective of day or meal, food on board the Golden Chariot was like an experience in itself. The well thought through multiple courses with the fantastic array of choices are a sure way to give you that heavenly experience. I certainly found my slice of heaven and unfortunately, a few extra pounds too.
Well Stocked Bar
While the kitchen on board was top class, I have to say that the bar was not too far behind. Stocked with all the top international labels, the bartenders always found a way to add a buzz to the already pleasurable experience. Even though you have to pay extra for the alcoholic beverages, a good drink is much appreciated after a long day of exploring the sights or even after a long relaxing spa session.
2 Different Routes to Explore South India
The Golden Chariot Train plies on two different routes. One is called the ‘Pride of the South’, while the other is called the ‘Southern Splendor’. The Pride of South (that I was on) starts at Bangalore and goes via Mysore, Srirangapatna, Kabini Tiger Reserve, Shravanabelagola, Belur, Halebid, Hampi, Badami, Pattadakkal and Goa before returning to Bangalore. The Southern Splendor on the other hand starts at Bangalore and goes via Chennai, Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Thanjavur, Madurai, Trivandrum, Aleppey and Kochi before returning to Bangalore. Both trips last 8 days and 7 nights.
The trains on both these routes ply only on pre-defined days.
I Loved this Experience
It is very difficult not to love a romantic and luxurious train journey. And especially so when you are treated to unbelievably good hospitality, heavenly food and a lifetime experience. The train is perfect for all kinds of people – international visitors, domestic visitors, romantic couples, families with kids, elderly people and many others. I would definitely recommend it to all. It is a bit expensive, but it is worth it. Especially, if you wish to celebrate something. And do keep an eye out for offers and discounts. When I was traveling, The Golden Chariot was offering a 40% discount to Indian nationals.
How to Book?
If you wish to know more details, itinerary, costs, etc., I would recommend you reach out directly to the Golden Chariot team through their website or through any of their authorized travel agents and tour operators. Remember, the Golden Chariot train plies only on fixed dates.
My 8 Days on the Golden Chariot Train
In case you wish to know details about the 8 days on the train, here is a sneak peek:
It all started with an orientation program at the Taj West End and a quick visit to the ISKCON temple. What happened afterwards was a feeling of being dumbstruck and happy at the same time. After all, I had set my sights on my luxury home for the next 8 days. It was a moment of celebration, introductions and that’s where the journey began.
Day 2 – Mysore and Kabini Tiger Reserve
Pit stop one was Mysore’s Amba Vilas Palace and then off to Kabini Tiger Reserve for a evening jeep safari in jumbo land where we spotted all animals except the big cats. We stayed overnight at the peaceful Kabini River Lodge.
Day 3 – Kabini Tiger Reserve, Srirangapatna
The 3rd day was the only morning that didn’t begin in the train. Rather, it began with a early morning boat safari at Kabini Tiger Reserve where we spotted otters and lots of birds. Post the safari we returned to the train, freshened up and explored the Tipu Sultan summer palace and Gumbaz. Dinner was at the lavish Lalith Mahal Palace.
Day 4 onwards, the train kept moving. The first half of the morning was the climb to the massive monolith of Baahubali at Shravanabelagola. The 2nd half was spent exploring the rich sculpted beauties of Hoysaleswara Temple at Halebid and Chennakeshava temple at Belur.
The 5th day was all Hampi. From the view points to the ruins and from the river side sunset to the bazaars, we visited all the highlights of this medieval kingdom.
I was excited on the 6th morning as I was visiting my favorite temple complex in India – Pattadakkal, the school of temple architecture. Along with the cave temples of Badami, 7th century Pattadakkal is the gem of the Chalukya era and I think it laid the foundation for the architecture of the rest of the temples in India. This was also the first day spent on the train and we were moving west deep into the Western Ghats.
Day 7 – Goa
Morning saw us arrive at Madgaon in Goa. The churches and Old portuguese homes of Velha Goa were on the itinerary for the morning. Afternoon was relaxing at the beach in typical Goan fashion. The evening saw us return to the train and begin our journey back to Bangalore.
After a final breakfast on the train and after wishing good bye to the entire crew, I slowly and sadly made my way back home.
Miscellaneous
All day trips to the various attractions were made in air conditioned Volvos managed by KSTDC along with super knowledgeable tour guides. While most of the meals were on the train, we did eat outside at the Lalith Mahal Palace, at Kabini River Lodge and at a 5 star hotel in Goa. The only night we didn’t sleep on the train was the night we stayed at Kabini River Lodge run by Jungle Lodges.
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We’re all in such a jolly hurry these days. We tap our feet in the airport queue and prefer to sit in our cars on the ferry so we can drive off immediately. But if you're in accordance with T.S. Eliot, that ‘the journey not the arrival matters’, there surely can’t be a more relaxing way to enjoy the journey than by train. Here’s some trips long and short to start you scheming.
You’d better fancy five-star luxury (and associated costs) too, as this train bills itself as “The Most Luxurious Train in the World.” No pulling any punches there! The four week journey includes a luxury air safari and lake cruise, combining to show guests sights like the Victoria falls in Zimbabwe, chimpanzees in Uganda and pyramids in Egypt. Start planning now – the trip departs only once every two years, with the next scheduled for January 2014.
…6 days on a train: Trans-Siberian Railway (Russia)
This is the world’s longest single service railway, around 8,000 kilometres across the barren expanses of Siberia. There are three main lines; the classic trip runs from Moscow to the port of Vladivostok, the other two end in Beijing. You can opt to do it all in one hit, but breaking up the trip will give you a chance to explore forests, plateaus and traditional villages along the way. Winter is a beautiful time of year to take this journey, although keep in mind that temperatures outside will drop to below zero and daylight hours are as sparse as the plains rolling by…
…5 days on a train: Dibrugarh - Kanyakumari Vivek Express (India)
You can’t mention train trips without mentioning India. Trains are the arteries of the country, pumping travellers, stock, pilgrims - just about anyone and anything through its hectic body. The longest trip on the subcontinent is the weekly train from Dibrugarh in the north-east to Kanyakumari at the southernmost tip of the mainland. Sip sugary chai sold by Chai Wallahs regularly walking through the cars and marvel at the chaos of colours whipping past the window.
…4 days on a train: Tren Crucero (Ecuador)
Recently reopened after extensive restoration, the Tren Crucero runs from Ecuador’s port town of Guayaquil up to the highland capital, Quito. Along the way the train undertakes the dramatic feat of ascending from 970ft above sea level to nearly 10,700ft in just 80 kilometres. It does this by navigating several switchbacks up the ‘Devil’s Nose zigzag’, reputably the most difficult railway climb in the world. There's plenty of side trips along the way to help stave off cabin fever, giving you the chance to explore national parks and cloud forests, eat at markets and haciendas and meet indigenous communities.
…3½ days on a train: The Canadian (Canada)
You’ll certainly get a feel for Canada’s sheer size on this trip, but take along a pack of cards. After the train has trekked its way through forests and then the central prairies, the spectacular Rocky Mountains will be a welcome sight and make the seemingly endless trees of Ontario worthwhile.
…3 days on a train: The Ghan (Australia)
The Ghan is named after Afghan cameleers who traversed the route in the late 19th century while helping settlers explore the harsh interior of the continent. The red heart of Australia certainly isn’t hospitable to hikers, but viewed from the comfort of your carriage it’s spectacular. Running up the centre of the continent like a zip, the Ghan will take you from the Adelaide Plains and Flinders Ranges in the south, through the outback town of Alice Springs and to the tropical city of Darwin in the North.
…2 hours on a train: Flåm Railway (Norway)
It’s a big jump down in time and temperature from the Ghan, to a trip that is a mere 20 kilometres. So brief you might think that if you blink you’ll miss it - in truth, you won’t want to blink at all for fear of missing out on the spectacular scenery as the train winds its way past Norwegian fjords, rivers, ravines and tiny mountain villages.
About the author: Susy Peddie is from New Zealand, now based in Berlin, working with GoEuro and taking as many train trips as possible. All the photographs in this post have been picked by her from Flickr – creative commons.
A lot of budget travelers to Indonesia prefer to spend more time in the Java island when compared to the other islands mainly because of its superior public transport infrastructure and the ability to travel long distances for a very small price. Trains and buses forms the bulk to the public transport system while there are taksi (taxi), ojek (motorcycle taxi), becak (3 wheeler cycle rickshaw), bajai (3 wheeler auto rickshaw), angkot (mini van) and more. Out of these, the trains offer the most comfort and are ideal to commute long distances.
During my last 3 weeks in Java, I have taken the train 4 times. I took the Executive class from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, the Executive class again from Yogyakarta to Malang, the Economy class from Malang to Banyuwangi and the Bisnis Class from Banyuwangi to Surabaya. For me, all classes were comfortable even though each journey was a minimum of 6 hours.
The thing to understand with the trains in Indonesia is that the cost of the trains vary with train type and class type. The Executive trains are the fastest, but also cost the most. All the compartments on the Executive trains are the Executive class, which is the highest class. There are no sleeper berths on the trains in Indonesia. All of them are seat type like the airplanes.
The Executive class has individual seats with push back option, pillow, blanket, and lots of leg room (I am a 191 cm guy and I was very comfortable). The Executive compartments are completely air-conditioned. The Bisnis class is also air-conditioned, but the seats are shared and the leg room is slightly lesser. Pillows are provided upon request. There are 2 types of economy class. One is economy with AC and the other is Economy with fan. Both of them are shared seats with very less leg room. Pillows are provided in this class too, but for a price. The cost decreases as you move from Executive to Bisnis to Economy AC to Economy.
Most of the trains have an attached pantry car that serves food. In the Executive trains, pantry attendants come to take personalized food and beverage orders, but in other trains, they just sell the wares. In economy trains, local vendors get into the train at each station and sell the wares. All the train compartments have attached toilets that are always maintained very well. While most of it is squat style toilets, some Executive trains have WC style toilets too.
The Executive trains take the least time to travel between 2 destinations because they either don’t stop at all destinations or stop only for a very brief period of time. They also get premium treatment over the other trains. The economy trains are much slower, but they stop at stations where the Executive trains do not stop. They get much longer than the Executive trains to ply between 2 destinations.
The thing to keep in mind is that in Indonesia, the Executive trains leave from a different station, while the economy ones leave from a different one. To ensure you have a comfortable train journey, carry a jacket and/or blanket with you if you are traveling in an air-conditioned compartment. The trains in Indonesia love to keep the AC very cold. Also, buy water and food as required from a supermarket before entering the train. Even though food is available on the train, it may or may not be fresh and is slightly more expensive than the supermarket.
The best thing about the trains is the ease of booking. One can either book the tickets directly at the train station, online at Kereta API train booking website and/or book at the nearest Indomaret supermarket (you pay 7,500 rupiah more for using this option). Unless it is a holiday, you should be able to book a train ticket one day in advance. Sometimes you can also get the ticket at the train station just before the scheduled departure of the train.
