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Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Valley Walk from Punakha to Wangdi Phodrang, Bhutan

Typically tourists don’t walk from Punakha to Wangdi Phodrang, two river side valley towns that are known for its history, red rice and hydroelectric projects in Western Bhutan, about a couple of years from Thimphu. It is about 30 kms by road and a share taxi only costs INR/BTN 100 for this 30 minute journey, but I was piqued by a statement that some locals made, which is most of the school kids walk from Punakha to Wangdi during school holidays and festivals.

Bhutanese man met on the trek from Punakha to Wangdi, Bhutan
This caught my interest and after digging a bit deep into this, I found out that there is a much shorter abandoned road and also a walking trail by the side of the river that leads from Punakha to Wangdi Phodrang.

A Bhutanese mother and her child
This route takes you from Punakha Dzong to the second longest suspension bridge in Bhutan and then to the Punakha countryside that is covered with golden yellow rice fields. On the other side of the trail is the azure waters of the Mochu and Pochu rivers that join at the Punakha Dzong.

Punakha's long suspension bridge - the second longest such bridge in Bhutan
The waters of this river is so clean that you can see a lot of migratory birds on this trail and those include the Ruddy Shelducks, Cormorants, Stilts and more. Also, on the terrestrial side, there are many interesting and colourful Himalayan birds. If you are a birder, then this trail should be on your must do list in Bhutan.

Heap of harvested rice at Punakha, Bhutan
Even if you are not a birder, the landscape is full of mountains, a fast flowing river and lots of golden yellow fields with traditional Bhutanese houses in the middle. This makes for some great sights and thus presents great photography opportunities.

Leaf less tree at Punakha, BhutanIn terms of distance, I think the trail is about 12 kms with a little bit of ups and downs, but mostly flat. If you take it easy, stop for a lot of photos and breaks, then you should be able to walk between these two rich valleys within 3 hours and if you are in a hurry, you can do it in 90 minutes. If time is not of essence and you wish to experience the Bhutanese countryside with its greenery, birds and colourful people, then this hike is very much recommended.

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Monday, May 20, 2013

Trek to Gunung Merapi: One of the deadliest volcanoes in the world

Gunung Merapi! This name is pretty much unknown in the tourist world, but it is almost one of the top 10 names in the list of the deadliest volcanoes in the world. A lot of tourists who visit the central Java region of Indonesia do not even know about this active volcano. Even if they do, they give it as miss, as unlike the Gunung Bromo and its easy views, one needs to do a 3 to 4 hour trek to reach the top of Merapi.

First view of sunrise from Gunung Merapi, Central Java, Indonesia
It is only those tourists who either have local friends or are couchsurfing who end up climbing this mountain of fire. This mountain is very popular with the local Indonesian people and attracts hundreds of trekkers every weekend. In line with this Indonesian trend, I joined my Indonesia friend and his group of friends to climb Mount Merapi last weekend.

Sunrise over Gunung Lawu in Central Java, Indonesia
About 12 of us left Yogyakarta at about 2 pm on Saturday and reached the base camp (spot for parking and has some small shops) after sunset. The drive should have taken us just 2 hours, but the weekend traffic and the heavy rains ensured that we reached late. A glass of the the tawar panas (hot sweet tea) woke us up and gave us warmth at the nippy base camp.

Sunrise over the volcanoes of Central Java, Indonesia
It took a while for everyone to assemble as everyone seemed to have gotten delayed due to the rain. Once all of us were together, we started climbing in what was a steep climb. There were hardly any flat stretches as the climb was continuously a steep ascent. Some of us reached our camp site in 3 hours while the other slow ones reached in 4 hours. The ground was slippery, some people got cramps and the weather was giving everyone a chill.

Gunung Lawu as seen from Gunung Merapi during sunrise
By about 1 AM, we had pitched our tents and were brewing a much needed cup of hot tea to warm us up. I was one of the few you came very badly prepared for this trek. First, I had no warm wear with me as a backpacker travels light and doesn’t expect to be cold in tropical south east Asia. Second, I had no trekking shoes, but my sandals. The worst was no sleeping bag. Hence, I had to sleep on the floor of the tent for close to 2 hours.

Trek to Gunung Merapi, an active volcano in Indonesia
In the end, all I managed was 40 minutes of sleep. It was more or less the same that everyone else got. Some could not sleep at all. We were all terribly tired, but the excitement of seeing sunrise from the peak was beckoning all of us to start walking. In a short while from our camp site, the forest cover ended and the walk was through black stones and rocks.

Some of the small perks of climbing the steep Mount Merapi
Between the peak and the campsite, there is a place that is somewhat like a memorial to pay respects to the kids who lost their life during a trek when Merapi exploded. From the campsite to the peak was about 2 hours and as we were approaching the top, I got heady due to the sulphur gases and could not proceed any further. It was also the sunrise time so I went to quickly find a spot to perch myself and my camera. Some folks proceeded further to the peak to see the crater and the lava flowing underneath and the others made themselves comfortable in their own sweet spots.

Twin Mountains as seen from Gunung Merapi, Indonesia
The sunrise was sharp at 5:05 AM and it was beautiful to see the sun rise beyond Gunung Lawu and the city nights below were still twinkling. Slowly, you could see Mount Merapi, Mount Merbabu, which is opposite Mount Merapi and the two mountains that are situated a bit far away. The views were surreal as the weather stayed really clear. The colors of the sun, the landscapes and the views of the mountains kept all of us dumb struck for a long while.

Mount Merbabu, an extinct volcano opposite Mount Merapi
As the sun rose up from behind the mountains, the clouds also seemed to rise with it making the entire world below seem like a maze of clouds. Once the maze of clouds dispersed, you could see the greens that covered these volcanic mountains. The slopes of Mount Merapi was a contrast of sorts with the top slopes being black while the slopes below were fresh green.

From the slopes of Mount Merapi, Indonesia
In a couple of hours, the cold winds of the night died down and the sun started warming up the entire place. Soon, all the warm clothes got replaced with summer clothes. By about 8 AM, all of us were back at the campsite and looking at the pictures.

Campsite overlooking Mount Merbabu in Central Java, Indonesia
While some of us were looking at each other’s photographs, some of the others were kind enough to brew some hot kopi (Indonesian coffee) and start with the breakfast. After a hearty breakfast, we started our descent back to the base camp.

The black and green slopes of Gunung Merapi, Central Java, Indonesia
Descent was quicker, but was very slippery with slimy mud and lots of pebbles and rocks. I fell on my backside 3 times, but it was part of the fun and the overall experience. The descent is actually tougher than the ascent as it has stretches all your leg muscles completely. After reaching the base camp, all of us celebrated with iced tea, some bananas and a group photograph. Then, we sleepily drove back to Yogyakarta.

Villages on the slopes of Mount Merapi, Indonesia
If you wish to do this trek, do ensure you have a guide to help you guide as you might get in the upper stretches and especially in the night, when you have no sense of direction. Plus, it is good to have a local who is aware of the latest activities in the volcano and knows which side of the mountain is safe and which is not. There is also a permissible limit in certain parts of the peak as the sulphur gases might cause trouble if you breathe them for a long while. If you wish to visit an active volcano and/or explore Central Java like a local, Gunung Merapi has to be on top of your bucket list.

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Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Guest Post: Trekking Patagonia's Torres del Paine

Patagonia is quickly becoming one of the most popular trekking destinations in the world, and those who are already familiar with the South American region will know why. The area stretches out towards the bottom of the earth, and in its reach proudly bears some of the world's most breathtaking scenery. It is often described as one of the world's last few places that truly feel undiscovered, an observation justified by the rich greenery and snow tipped mountains that tell little of human interference.

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A popular destination in many unforgettable gap years, many use the iconic natural offerings of Patagonia as a wonderful backdrop for a relaxing break, while others choose to experience the dramatic mountain ranges and lakes up close and personal.

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While South America is usually praised for its rich culture, the Patagonian region doubtless provides scenic beauty in its natural assets. Trekking these often testing pieces of nature is a popular activity among visitors from around the globe, and one of the most popular trekking routes is in the Torres del Paine National Park.

The Torres del Paine trek physically guides participants through what is to many others just beautiful scenery. Trekkers are guided through valleys and along mountain ranges, witnessing lakes and glaciers along the way. The 'W' route (named after the 'W' shape from a birds-eye of the route) is the most popular of all the options, often taking around four days to complete. In this amount of time, participants will face the elements as they trek the dramatic ranges and camp overnight in various exciting places. Patagonian activity authority 'Swoop Patagonia' mention that guests often stop for lunch next to the crystal blue lakes. The trek passes through some of the natural assets that allow for various activities, these include kayaking in the area's testing rivers and ice hiking on the iconic glaciers.

Part of the Torres del Paine's charm is that it caters for different types of holiday makers. While many trekkers enjoy the adrenaline rush of the aforementioned activities, others prefer less strenuous pass times within the journey. This could include horse riding on the ranges or simply taking in the scenery from an advantageous perspective and relaxing.

Trekkers that use the national park are among the few that get to closely observe Patagonia's wildlife. Among the mountain ranges can be witnessed the mighty Condor, that boasts the largest wingspan of any land bird, stretching to an impressive 3.2 metres! Also roaming the region are Pumas, the largest of the area's predators, the endangered Huemul deer, and Guanacos, of which there are thought to be 1,500 in Torress del Paine alone.

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It's clear that this particular trek can be enjoyed by both adrenaline junkies and those who are looking for something less challenging. Other treks and timeframes are available, for example, some treks offer a larger circuit that last as long as eight days. For more information on these options visit Swoop Patagonia . It is recommended to visit the park in the Patagonian summer, which is between late December and February, as this is when the weather isn't as harsh and the daylight hours are longer.

About the author: This guest post is written by Luke Thomas, on behalf of Swoop Patagonia, a leading online authority on all things Patagonian. From trekking guides to the best Kayaking spots, these guys can help you plan an amazing adventure holiday in this beautiful area of South America.
The photos in this post have the rights reserved, and are not available for purchase on this website (beontheroad.com).

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Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Guest Post: Top 10 Treks in Ladakh

Ladakh is a land of varied experiences. There is spirituality to be explored, adventure to be had and the bliss of nature to be felt. While you can explore Ladakh in plenty of ways, trekking is one of the best ways to do it. Trekking in Ladakh brings together all the different experiences to be had in Ladakh- a trip to monasteries gives you a spiritual experience; walking through varied landscapes lets you be with nature; and trekking to the top of challenging peaks gives you an adventurous experience. There are plenty of trekking trails in Ladakh to explore. However, here is an arguable list of top 10 treks in Ladakh which you shouldn’t miss:

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1. The Frozen River Trek
The name says it all. You get to walk on a frozen river and make your way through remote areas of the land and enjoy the bliss of nature. The trek happens in winters, when the Zanskar River freezes and is the only route to get from Kargil to Padum. Also known as the Chaddar trek, this 20 day trek is meant for professional trekkers and not for beginners.
Best time to trek: January to February

2. Sham Valley Trek
While the Chaddar Trek is meant to be adrenaline pumping, the Sham Valley Trek is meant to be a spiritual experience. It takes you through various beautiful monasteries of Ladakh, including the ones which date back to the 11th century. This 5 day long trek is not too demanding and includes a visit to the monasteries of Alchi, Lamayuru as well as Thiksey.
Best time to trek: June to October

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3. Stok Kangri Trek
If you love scaling heights and feel adrenaline pumping through your veins, the Stok Kangri trek is meant for you. This majestic peak, with a height of about 6137 meters above sea level, can be quite a challenge to scale. It takes about 9 days to reach a summit, and you encounter steep climbs as well as some gorgeous camping locations on your way. While the trek can be quite demanding, the views you get from top of Stok Kangri simply take your pain away.
Best time to trek: July and September

4. Rupshu Valley Trek
Lying in the south-eastern region of Ladakh is Rupshu Valley. A trek through the valley takes you varied terrains, with the altitude ranging between 4500 and 5500 meters. The valley has green pastures every now and then, but largely, the land is not suitable for agriculture. That makes the region sparsely populated. However, it is a popular route for nomads, and you can spot quite a few of them while on this trek. Watching them make their way through the arid land with their sheep and yak gives you glimpse into the local life of the people of Ladakh.
Best time to trek: June to October

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5. Indus Valley Trek
The Indus River has carved some gorgeous gorges in the valley, apart from some other beautiful sights. The valley has scintillating mountain peaks in the background, which give it the awe-inspiring factor. Located at quite an altitude, the trek can be difficult in parts. That’s why, it is necessary that you have basic levels of fitness before embarking on this trek. On the way, don’t miss the Spituk Monastery, which is one of the oldest in Ladakh. Likir offers nice camping grounds, and an opportunity to interact with the locals.
Best time to trek: May to July

6. Kang Yatse trek
If the Stok Kangri trek sounds exciting to you, the Kang Yatse trek is even more so. The peak is a little higher than Stok Kangri and requires considerable level of fitness to reach the summit. However, the trek to the top is not technical, which means you don’t have to be a trained mountaineer in order to reach the summit. Nevertheless, as you continue rising to the top, the ascent keeps getting steeper and more challenging. But despite the hardships, it is must have experience if your fitness allows it. The top of Kang Yatse gives an amazing view of Himalayan peaks, including K2, which is the world’s second highest peak.
Best time to trek: June to August

7. Nubra Valley trek
If you would rather have a more relaxing trek than being too adventurous, consider taking the Nubra Valley trek. Nubra valley is known as the valley of flowers, and it has a variety of blossoming flowers in the summer season. Along the trek, you get to cross the beautiful rivers of Shyok and Siachen, visit the Esna monastery, which is a remote monastery of Ladakh, as well as visit the hot springs of Panamik. Finding hot springs in such a cold destination is one of the many delights of nature.
Best time to trek: In the summer months

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8. Lamayuru to Alchi trek
This trek could easily be called the spiritual trek of Ladakh. Lamayuru and Alchi have two of the oldest monasteries of Ladakh, which dates back to the 11th century. Along the way, you get to see some other Ladakh monasteries of Ladakh as well, such as those of Thiksey. The trekking route from Lamayuru to Alchi is pretty undemanding, which makes it perfect for beginners who want to enjoy the joys of trekking in Ladakh.
Best time to trek: May to September

9. Markha Valley Trek
Walk alongside the mesmerizing Markha River and make your way through some really high mountain passes, including that of Stok La and Kongmaru La, which lie at a height of 4,800 meters and 5,200 meters above sea level respectively. As you make your way through the valley, you get to explore the diverse terrains of Ladakh. You can even spot ibex as well as blue sheep along the way, as Markha Valley is a part of Hemis National Park. If you are lucky enough, you could even spot the majestic snow leopard. Watch the terrain change from green pastures to barren lands, with towering peaks in the background.
Best time to trek: June to September

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10. Zanskar Valley Trek
Trekking through Zanskar Valley isn’t just a delight in the winter months only. It is equally exciting in the summer months as well, when the Zanskar River is flowing in full force, and remote villages of the place have bustling activity. A trek through Zanskar Valley takes you through some important monasteries of Ladakh, some remote villages as well as some wild canyons. There is rafting in Zanskar River to be done too.
Best time to trek: June to August
About the Author: Divij is an adventurer, a budding photographer and a writer. He has been to various trekking trails and to many offbeat destinations in India. His passion is to explore all the offbeat destinations in India. Currently, he writes articles on travel for Thrillophilia’s blog.

Note: All the photographs in this post belong to the author.

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Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Upcoming Travel: Backpacking to Icy Cold Ladakh

I have been eagerly waiting for this trip for close to six months now. Planning began in late May, ticket bookings took place in July and gear purchases were made from Aug through December. Joining me on this trip are three other close friends and fellow travellers. All four of us leave for Delhi today and are headed into Leh tomorrow early morning. The next 2 weeks will be spent exploring the Ladakh region.

We do have an itinerary in mind, which involves 2 days of acclimatization at Leh, a 5 day trek in the Zanskar range and 5 days of exploring the scenic locations around Leh, namely, Pangong Tso Lake, Hemis High Altitude National Park, the Changthang belt (Tso Moriri Lake, Tso Kar Lake), Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Lamayuru and the city of Leh.

I am sure that we will not be able to visit all of these places, but we will pick n choose depending on weather and road conditions. Weather plays an instrumental role in Ladakh especially during winters as temperatures drop to as low as minus 40 degree Celsius in some places. Wind Chill is also quite severe here especially in the night and early mornings and this can lower the ‘Real Feel’ temperatures even further down. Ice sheets cover most of the terrain and most of the lakes, rivers and other water bodies freeze.

To tackle this tough weather, we have with us the following gear: ‘800 down’ sleeping bags, ‘800 down’ jackets, thermal wear, backpacking boots, moisture wicking alpine socks, woollen socks, fleece balaclavas, alpine skull caps, woollen mittens, gaiters and others. And we plan to take crampons, ice axes and ropes as need be on hire from Leh. But, I am sure that we will face the ladakhi icy chill in spite of all this. And that is part of the adventure we are going for.

On most of my previous travel trips, my followers and readers have complained that I don’t post updates while I am travelling. Hence, this time around, I will consciously attempt to post pictures and updates on my facebook profile page while I am exploring. Hopefully, I will have get some cell phone connectivity and my phone battery lasts a while in those low temperatures.

I am hoping this will be a great trip. My adrenalin levels have already risen, my heart is pumping wildly and my pulse is racing. I am really excited. Let’s see how it goes…

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