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Thursday, November 07, 2013

Travel Checklist for Winter Backpacking Trips

Last year, I had written a travel checklist for long backpacking trips. Today, as the winter fast approaches us, I am putting together this travel checklist for winter backpacking trips where the temperatures range from 15 to –15 degree Celsius. Such trips may include short to long winter treks. While most of the gear from normal backpacking trips feature on this list too, this list finds some additions to combat the low temperatures, wind chill factor and of course cold rain or snow.

Travel checklist for winter backpacking trips
Tip:
Excluding camera and laptop/tablet, try and keep the pack below 10 kilograms.

Note 1: The below list is for a MALE in the early 30s with medium tenacity to cold.

Note 2: Some of the items below are marked optional. Use your discretion.

Important
1) Passport with at least 6 months validity, though more is advised
2) Yellow fever card if you are coming from an infected country – Optional
3) Travel Insurance document for the length of your journey to take care of contingencies and medical emergencies – Optional, though heavily recommended
4) Credit Card – 2 (one for regular use and one for backup) – Optional
5) Debit Card – 2 (one for regular use and one for backup)
6) Forex, as required. Though, you can withdraw from the country using your international debit/ATM card – Optional
7) Flight/Train/Bus Tickets
8) 16 Passport size photographs (for visas and other documentation)
9) Accommodation vouchers, if you have booked in advance – Optional
10) Soft copies of all important travel documents in hard disk, phone and/or on the cloud (web)

Baggage and Important Accessories
1) Backpack (40 –65 L) with rain cover – don’t put stuff into this that you don’t want to check in or leave at your hotel/hostel/guest house
2) Day pack/Camera pack/Waist pack/Lumbar pack with rain cover – put all valuable stuff in it and keep it with you at all times
3) Copy of all important documents in daypack and backpack. Copies include (bills of all camera gear so that you don’t get questioned at customs, passport, visa, travel insurance) 
4) Featherweight Poncho – to protect yourself and valuables from rain or snow
5) 800 Down Sleeping Bag (upto –15 degrees Celsius), preferably small in size and of less weight – is not required if you plan to stay in heated accommodation
6) Collapsible Thermal Pillow – optional

Electronics (Alert: Batteries run out faster in cold weather) 
1) Camera and necessary accessories (charger, memory cards, micro fiber cloth, etc.)
2) Cellphone, its charger and Headphones/Earphones
3) Laptop/Tablet and related accessories (External Hard disk, Charger, etc.) – Optional
4) e-Reader – Optional
5) Universal Travel Adaptor

Important Tools/Gear
1) Swiss Army Knife – Optional, but good to have
2) Headlamp or Hand Torch and Batteries (1 set in headlamp and one in spare)
3) Sunglasses – 1 pair
4) Ballpoint pen - 1
5) Pocket book –1 (to take notes) – Optional 

Footwear
1) Hiking Boots (preferably waterproof) – 1 pair
2) Bathroom slippers – 1 pair (Optional)

Clothes
Regular Wear
1) Half sleeve or full sleeve shirt or T Shirts – 4 (Personally, I prefer half sleeves)
2) Thin or Thick Cotton Pants – 2 (Personally, I prefer thin cottons in spite of cold)
3) Night Cotton Shorts – 1
4) Swimming Trunks – 1 (for those crazy enough to get into water during winter)
5) Vests – 6 pairs (Can also double up as sleeping trunks for the night)
6) Bandana – 6 – Optional (I love bandanas and hence this features in my list)
7) Thin Bathing Towel – 1
8) Cotton Socks – 3 pairs
9) Light weight Belt – 1 (Optional, but recommended to hold your pants even while you lose those inches while traveling)

Thermal Wear
1) Sleeveless Down Jacket – 1 (for 0 to -15 degree Celsius)
2) Day-to-Day use thin fleece jacket – 1 (for 0 to 15 degree Celsius)
3) Upper Thermal Wear - 1
4) Lower Thermal Wear – 1 (Optional)
5) Woolen Mittens – 1 pair (for below zero degree Celsius and wind chill)
6) Hunting or Photography Gloves (Mittens) – 1 pair (for 0 to 10 degree Celsius)
7) Cold Weather Socks – 2 pairs
8) Neck Scarf (Woolen) – 1 (Optional)
9) Ski Cap - 1
10) Fleece Balaclava – 1 (Optional)

Toiletries (Small sizes only)
1) Soap bar and Soap box or Liquid Soap
2) Shaving Kit
3) Roll On Deodorant
4) Toothbrush
5) Toothpaste
6) Moisturizer and/or Cold Cream
7) Lip Chap stick
8) Sunscreen – Optional
9) Perfume – Optional 

Miscellaneous
1) Poly Bags (Trash Bags or Plastic Bags) – to carry dirty laundry and/or for protecting clothes and gear from the elements
2) Zip Loc Bags (for storing  papers, money, important documents, wallet, etc.)

First Aid Kit
For a detailed first aid travel kit, look up here.

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Sunday, October 07, 2012

Alchi Monastery: One of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh

Generally, we see Buddhist monasteries located on top of hills and it is quite a climb to reach most of them. But, have you been to a Himalayan Buddhist monastery that is located at a low level such that you have to descend to it?

The Indus river flows behind the Alchi Monastery
Well, such a monastery is the Alchi monastery, which is situated by the banks of the Indus river on the way from Leh to Kargil at about 70 kms from Leh and usually takes about 90 minutes to reach from Leh. It is mainly known for its magnificent and well preserved 11th or 12th century wall paintings, all in Indo-Himalayan style.

Alchi Monastery - one of the older monasteries of Ladakh
This Alchi Gompa is known more as a monastic complex of temples that consists of three shrines: the Dukhang (Assembly hall), the Sumtseg and the temple of Manjushri. Chortens are also a part of the complex. The artistic and spiritual details of both Buddhism and the Hindu kings of that time in Kashmir are reflected in the wall paintings in the monastery complex.

Alchi Monastery Situated at an altitude of 10,200 feet, the popular time to visit the Alchi monastery is during the summer months of June to September, but if you wish for a calm and serene experience, then the winter months of December to February are ideal. But, in winter, be prepared to bear the bitter cold winds coming from the Indus valley which feels colder as Alchi lies in shadow for most of the winter months.

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Thursday, October 04, 2012

Chang La, the 3rd Highest Motorable Road in the World, in winter

Marsimek La is a killer climb, Khardung La rises out of nowhere, but the climb is pretty easy. Chang La is one of the more steeper climbs. It is known for the boulders that greet everyone during the climb. At 17,586 feet, Chang La (Pass towards the South), is the third highest motorable road in the world after Marsimek La and Khardung La.

Chang La pass - one of the highest mountain passes in the world
This is the pass that connects the rest of Ladakh with the picturesque Pangong Tso lake. I was here in the peak of winter and it was quite an experience. Thankfully, the roads were not snowed in due to a lack of snowfall. But, as we climbed up towards Chang La, we found a whole lot of boulders blocking our path.

The frozen road of Chang La
It took us a good 25 minutes and after a lot of huffing and panting (due to lack of oxygen), we were finally able to remove the boulders or at least create enough way for our jeep to go by. The sensational snow covered Chang la and the heated tea shop on the top helped in getting our breath back and also some warmth back into our cold bones (especially our feet).

Posing at Chang La
From this pass onwards, the landscape changes into more desert-like and this forms the Changthang Plateau and Tangtse is the main village in it. The aura of the spectacular vistas here is totally worth the drive to this place. One should definitely experience this place.

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Standing on the Frozen Indus River

How many people can say that they stood right on the middle of a flowing river? Underground rivers and standing on bridges don’t count. But, a frozen river definitely counts.

Standing in the middle of the frozen Indus river
I can convincingly say that I stood right in the  middle of the frozen Indus river at a place called Mahe in India’s Ladakh region. This place is situated right at the junction where one road leads to the Tso Moriri lake, while the other leads to Nyoma, Loma and the astronomical observatory at Hanle.

The Indus is completely frozen here. Throw a rock on it and see it break into a hundred pieces
It was end of December and the Indus river here was completely frozen. Not frozen in bits and pieces, but completely frozen end to end. One could stand on it and jump as hard as possible and not even a teenie-meenie crack would appear. Only thing was that it was a bit slippery and we had to watch our footing.

In the middle of the frozen Indus river at Mahe
Such was the strength of the ice that when I threw a huge rock onto it, the rock broke into many pieces. And it was unbelievably cold here too. The shade factor added to the misery.

Mahe Bridge where the road splits into two - one heading towards Tso Moriri Lake and the other to Nyoma, Loma and Hanle
Generally, as a thumb rule, the Indus river is completely frozen from Mahe and upstream into Nyoma and Loma and the rest of it in the Changthang Cold Desert. The winter temperatures here are always below minus 20 degree celsius even during the day time.

Getting photographed on the frozen Indus river
Sometimes I think…Why don’t people walk on the frozen Indus river like how they do on the Zanskar river as part of the Chadar trek. Of course, I do understand that the Chadar was then part of the winter trade route and no one lives in the Changthang Cold Desert and thus needed no frozen river trek. But, in today’s world of adrenalin junkies, I am sure the frozen Indus river trek would find a lot of takers. Considering that the terrain is much more ruthless when compared to the Zanskar valley, this place should offer a memorable experience. I am definitely kicked to do it at least once.

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Confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers

One is a shining blue river. The other is dirty green. Both of them originate in the high Himalayas. While the Indus originates in the Changthang Cold Desert, the Zanskar river originates in the Zanskar ranges. Both these Himalayan rivers join at a scenic setting near the town of Nimmu in Ladakh.


If you visit this place during the summer months, you will see a fast turgid river in Zanskar and a relatively calmer river in Indus. But, if you see it in the winter, it is just the opposite.

The Indus beginning to freeze in patches even further downstream
The Zanskar, instead of being the fast mountain river is the one that slows down and starts to freeze, thus making the flow very less, while the Indus moves relatively fast and with a lot of ice floating on it. While the Zanskar freezes completely during some part of the winter to enable the Chadar trek, the Indus keeps flowing though it too would have started to freeze in patches. Summer or winter, this confluence makes for a great sight.

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