Cycling from Kallidaikurichi to Brahmadesam: Soak in Oodles of Rustic Tamil Nadu charm
Gorgeous ancient temples, lush paddy fields, banana plantations and tuber farms, quiet village roads with cows, buffaloes and goats giving you company, the Thamirabharani river and its tributaries and smiling locals are what you will find on this rustic cycling route between Kallidaikurichi and Brahmadesam in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu. This rustic part of the country offers excellent routes for cycling if you can handle the humidity and/or if you can start early in the morning. Previously, I had written about the scenic and rustic cycling route between Kallidaikurichi and Manimuthar Dam and cycling through the backyards of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve. Both these cycling routes are closer to the mountains of the Western Ghats and the route is mostly green and full of coconut groves and paddy fields. This cycling route form Kallidaikurichi to Brahmadesam is a bit away from the mountains, though you can still see the mountains as you ride between these two villages.
The cycling route would be Kallidaikurichi –> Ambasamudram –> Gowthamapuri –> Brahmadesam. On your way back, you can either opt for a detour via Kovilkulam to see another bridge on the Gadananathi river or you can opt for the temple route of Thiruvaliswaram Valisvara Temple and Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy temple. Both these detours will take you back to Ambasamudram via two different routes and you can then return to Kallidaikurichi.
This route takes you past umpteen irrigation canals, large swathes of paddy fields, ponds, lakes, pretty little villages and colourful temples. Brahmadesam to Kallidaikurichi distance would not be more than 8 kilometers, but there are more than enough places where you can stop for a pit stop or to explore the attractions in detail.
The highlights on this route would include:
1) Kallidaikurichi Thamirabharani river banks where you can enjoy a swim and a bath
2) Kallidaikurichi paddy fields, the kannadigan canal and the Brahmin agraharams with their many temples. You can cycle through the different streets to get a flavour of the Brahmin culture and the rich agraharam houses
3) The Thamirabharani river bridge between Kallidaikurichi and Ambasamudram
4) Kasibanathaswamy temple, the Ambai Periyakoil Padithurai and the line of trees on either side of the road. This entire stretch is an extremely popular movie shoot location
5) Banana plantations at Gowthamapuri
6) 10th century Brahmadesam Kailasanathar Temple, a top attraction on this route
7) Gadananathi River banks and bridge at Brahmadesam
8) 10th century Valiswara temple at Thiruvaliswaram
9) The Magnificent 10th Century Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy Temple with an ashtanga vimana
Do carry a pair of pants or a veshti (dhoti) which you can wear over your cycling shorts in case you plan to visit any of the temples (shorts aren’t allowed in most of the temples). Most of the temples close by 9 or 9:30 AM, so you should plan your trip accordingly.
A typical plan would be to start at sunrise so that you can catch the sunrise colours at the Thamirabharani river banks or at the Thamirabharani river bridge. You can also experience the morning life of the village people with their swimming, praying, meditating and other temple activities and agriculture work. You can have a simple breakfast of idli, vadai, sambar with filter coffee at Hotel Gowri Shankar and then head towards Brahmadesam. As you have had breakfast, you can stop at all the places for photographs or for chats with locals. The Brahmadesam Kailasanathar temple closes at 10:00 AM in the morning, so if you reach by 8 AM, you will get a good couple of hours to explore the temple at leisure. Do not miss to taste the temple prasadam (usually pancha mirtham or curd rice). As the sun goes up, you can head to the Gadananathi river for a swim or just to watch the locals go about their chores.
If you plan to visit Mannarkoil temple or the Thiruvaliswara temple, make sure to have an early breakfast and reach them before 8 AM as both places close by 9 AM.
In addition to your cycling helmet, do carry a cap, a pair of sunglasses, a bottle of water or may be two bottles of water, a couple of energy bars and a spare set of pants or dhoti for your temple visits.
If you feel hot and thirsty, do indulge in some red tender coconut water (locally called sevva elaneer) and sugarcane juice (during certain months of the year). Vehicular traffic will be minimal and can be found only between Kallidaikurichi and Ambasamudram. Once you cross Ambasamudram, only the odd motorcycle, bus or tractor will cross you on the village roads.
The best season to embark on this cycling route would either be between June and August or between November and February. This is when the weather would be pleasant, the water bodies full, the farms at their active most and the terrain will be lush green.
Cycling from Kallidaikurichi to Brahmadesam is a great way to explore this offbeat part of rural Tamil Nadu and soak in all of its rustic charm. And as there is hardly any incline between these villages, people of most ages and fitness levels would be able to enjoy this cycling experience.
Other nearby tourist attractions:
1) Mekkarai to Achankovil to Konni: Heavenly motorcycle route through pristine forest
2) Mekkarai: One of Tamil Nadu’s prettiest villages
3) Kambhavurutty Falls: Scenic waterfall holiday destination of Kerala
4) Manalar Falls: The herbal jungle waterfall of Kerala
5) Achankovil Sastha Temple: Ancient healing temple located in the pristine forest of the Western Ghats
6) Rosemala View Point: Gorgeous motorcycling route inside Shendurney wildlife sanctuary, Kerala
7) Ottakkal Weir View Point: Lovely pit stop on the Thenmala – Kollam highway
8) Palaruvi Falls: Kerala’s herbal waterfall that falls like milk from the sky
9) Aryankavu Sastha Temple: Ancient temple located in the sacred forests of the Western Ghats
10) Vintage Pathimoonu Kannara Bridge: Colonial charm of the Indian Railways
11) Punalur Suspension Bridge: Historical gem of Kerala
12) Lesser Known Kerala Mountain Railways: Treat for nature lovers
13) Thenmala Dam: A monsoon pit stop view
14) Courtallam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu
15) Sunderapandiapuram: Of lovely Brahmin agraharam houses, sunflower fields, windmills and mountain views
16) Puliyarai View Point: Scenic pit stop on the Tenkasi – Kerala highway
17) Sivasailam Temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats
18) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East monsoon in India
19) 13th century Kasi Visavanathar Temple at Tenkasi
20) Sri Anantha Padmanabha Swamy Temple: World’s richest Hindu temple
21) Shanghumugham Beach: The tranquil and divine beach of Thiruvananthapuram
22) Thiruparappu Falls: Gorgeous monsoon spectacle near Kanyakumari
23) Mathoor Aqueduct and Hanging Bridge: An offbeat wonder nestled in the mountains near Kanyakumari
24) Kappil Beach: Sandy beauty hemmed in between the sea and the backwaters
25) Varkala Beach: The stunning cliff beach of Kerala where you can wash away all your sins
26) Meenmutty Falls inside Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary: A beautiful tropical jungle trail
27) Ponmudi: The offbeat hill station of Kerala with a 360 degree mountain panorama
28) Manjolai: The unknown hill station gem of India
29) Thenmala Forest: Offbeat nature and wildlife getaway
30) Nalumukku: The wettest place of India during the North East monsoon
31) Kudrevetty: The gorgeous windy station of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve
32) Manimuthar Falls: The herbal waterfall inside a tiger reserve
33) Agastyar Falls: A gorgeous waterfall on the Thamirabharani river
34) Oothu: The quaint little hill station of Tamil Nadu
35) Kakkachi: The highest point inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve
36) Scenic Iron Bridge of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve: Pristine nature overloaded
37) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep south
38) Hidden pristine waterfall inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve
39) 1000 year old Papanasanathar Temple: Where you can wash all your sins away
40) Iruttu Kadai Halwa: Icon of Tirunelveli
41) Nellaiappar Temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder
42) Pattamadai Pai: GI tagged beautiful handwoven mats from a tiny Tamil Nadu village
43) Thamirabharani River Delta: A motorcycle route full of rustic gorgeousness
44) Tiruchendur Murugan Temple: Sea shore magic
45) Garuda Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi
46) Festival of Thiruvathirai from a traditional Tamil Nadu village
47) The Festival of Karthigai Deepam from a traditional Tamil Nadu village
48) The exotic tropical fruits of Puliyarai
49) Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand cultural spectacle in rural Tamil Nadu
50) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature