Bhutan Backpacking - Be On The Road | Live your Travel Dream!
none

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Top 10 things to do in Bumthang, Bhutan

Bumthang is often referred to as the ‘Switzerland of the East’. Its wide open valleys, its snow capped mountains, its green country side, its fast flowing mountain streams and its easy paced life all give it’s a Swiss like look and feel. But, this ‘Switzerland of the East’ has more to offer through its beautiful temples and monasteries that offer a rich spiritual experience. Typically, most tourists to Bhutan visit Paro and Thimphu and if time permits they make their way to Bumthang, but if you ask me, you should definitely put Bumthang way up in your Bhutan holiday itinerary. I stayed here for 8 days on my recent backpacking trip to Bhutan and the below top 10 things to do are based on this experience of exploring different areas of Bumthang.

Kuje Lakhang
The very old and very beautiful Kurje Lakhang of Bhutan
Built in the 8th century and associated with Guru Rinpoche, this is one of the special temples of Bhutan along with Kyichu Lakhang of Paro. This beautiful temple is located by a mountain river and can be seen from the Tamshing monastery. The three temples in the Kuje complex are dedicated to the three kings of Bhutan. Facing the temples, the first one on the right is the oldest and contains the rock with Guru Rinpoche’s body imprint. The second temple was built by Ugyen Wangchuck and houses a huge image of Guru Rinpoche. The third temple is built in traditional style and blends wonderfully with the older buildings.

Jamey Lakhang
Street hawker selling her wares in front of Jampey Lakhang, Bumthang
Revered as one of the oldest temples in Bhutan, the Jamey Lakhang dates back to the 7th century. This is the place where all the famous festivals of Central Bhutan are held. It is believed that King Songtsengampo built this temple on the knees of a demoness who was occupying Tibet and threatening Buddhism.

Chumey Valley
Yatra wool being woven at Chume Valley, Bumthang, Bhutan
This is the place of the famous yatra wool of Bhutan. Today, a lot of residents of Chume Valley have become very rich due to rich cultivation of potatoes, but the place got its name first from yatra wool, which is made from the sheep living in this region. The women of Chumey dye this wool and make a lot of interesting wool products that include sweaters, blankets, bags, scarves and much more. As a tourist, one can visit some of these small scale yatra factories, see the women weaving the yarn and also buy some of the finished work products. 

Tamshing Monastery
Colourful mural inside Tamshing Monastery, Bhutan
Located across the river from Kuje Lakhang, the lovely Tamshing Monastery was built between 1501 and 1505 by Pemalingpa, the great Bhutanese Nyingmapa Lama. This private monastery contains some of the most remarkable paintings of this period in the Himalayas. Restored in the mid 20th century, this shrine is dedicated to Guru Rinpoche and his eight manifestations. When you are here, ask to see the steel mesh coast forged by Pemalingpa. It is believed that if you carry it thrice around the shrine, your sins will be washed away.

Mebar Tso
Mountain stream enroute to Mebar Tsho, Central Bhutan
Mebar Tso or Burning Lake is a holy site and pilgrimage place for the people of Bhutan. This place got a lot of negative publicity due to many tourists losing their lives here. Hence, extra caution is advised while visiting this place. This lake that is more of a gorge gets its name from a famous episode of Pemalingpa’s life. If you are not a pilgrim, the place as such does not hold a lot of spiritual importance, but the nature here is very beautiful with green countryside and a fast flowing mountain river. It takes about 40 minutes to get here from Bumthang area.

Relaxation amidst Fruit Orchards
The entire region of Bumthang is famous for its fruit orchards. Apples, pears, apricots, walnuts and more can be found here in plenty. If relaxation is on your agenda, then basking in the morning sun, reading a book with a hot cup of tea amidst fruit orchards would be an excellent idea.There are many homestays in Bumthang area that offer this experience. Personally, I indulged in this at the Swiss Guest House that is full of apple and pear trees.

Jakar Dzong
Jakar Dzong -tucked amidst pine trees
The Jakar Dzong or the fortress of the white bird was founded in 1549 by the Drukpa lam Ngagi Wangchuck. It sits on top of a hill that overlooks the Choekar town and its location offers a wide open view of the Bumthang valley. The headquarters of the Bumthang district is established here, but there are no resident monks here. This dzong can be seen from almost anywhere in the Choekar town.

Lamey Gompa
Colourful windows of Lamey Gompa, Bumthang, Bhutan
Formerly a royal monastery, but currently a forestry office, this gompa built in the 19th century cgan be visited by walk from the Choekar town. This walk provides lovely views of the Jakar Dzong and the Bumthang valley. If you are adventurous and feel like hiking, you can continue from the Lamey Gompa to Tharpaling monastery via the old Kiki La pass. A lot of local Bumthang people perform this hike on festival days to tie a prayer flag at Kiki La. Apparently, this brings in good fortune.

Kunzangdra Monastery
Kuje Lhakhang, one of Bumthang's famous temples
On the other side of the Bumthang valley and towards the Tang area, which is an agricultural region specializing in sheep rearing lies the Kunzangdra Monastery at a height of 11,000 feet. This monastery was founded by Pemalingpa in 1488 and lies opposite one of Guru Rinpoche’s meditation spots. If you are daring and have the services of a guide, you can hike from Kunzangdra monastery to Pemaling Gompa and down to the Swiss Farm to complete this trail.

Ura Valley
Line of chortens at Kurje Lakhang temple, Bumthang
The Ura valley is known for its spectacular scenery. It is on the way to the Ura valley that one can see the huge white Gangkar Punsum (23,750 feet), the highest peak in Bhutan. And in addition, there are a lot of mountain scenery to be seen before you descend into the valley that is characterized by broad sweeping slopes, clement pastures and wide fields. At the bottom is a large village with clusters of big houses linked by little alleys paved with stone slabs, a rare sight in Bhutan.

How to get to Bumthang: There are two options to get to Bumthang. One is by road from Thimphu via Wangdi Phodrang and Trongsa an d the second by air from Paro to Bumthang. Tashi air has regular flights to Bumthang from Paro. And there are regular buses that ply between Thimphu and Bumthang every day. One can also hire a luxury tour bus, SUV or car to go on this mountainous road journey. Typical road commute time to Bumthang from Thimphu is 8 to 12 hours depending on vehicle type.

Continue Reading...

Saturday, March 08, 2014

Trongsa: The Heart of Bhutan

It is in the center of Bhutan. It is the city from where the kings of Bhutan come. It has the largest dzong in the country. Unlike most of Western Bhutan, where the cities are in valleys, this city mirrors East Bhutan by setting itself on a mountain slope. It is also one of the wettest areas of Bhutan. This city is Trongsa, the heart of Bhutan and with a lot of importance to its history and royalty.

Trongsa Dzong and the Trongsa Landscape
Normally, this city is not on the tourist’s itinerary, but since it falls on the way to Bumthang, a lot of tourists spend half a day here. But, if you ask me, this town deserves much more time. The best way to begin a tour of Trongsa is by starting at the T Dzong, which has the view tower that gives stunning views of Trongsa and the Trongsa Dzong and where one can see and understand its history in the Trongsa museum.

The mighty Trongsa Dzong - the largest Dzong of Bhutan
After understanding the history of Trongsa, the next stop would be Trongsa Dzong, the largest dzong of Bhutan and one that needs a lot of effort to explore due to its sheer size. If you feel adventurous, you should try walking down from the dzong to the cantilever bridge where the mountain river flows and then back to the dzong through forests and rice fields. The hike will be tough, but will show you the natural beauty of Trongsa.

The large Trongsa Dzong of BhutanApart from these two highlights, there is nothing much in terms of man made tourist attractions, but I personally found the nature very appealing. If you are for hikes, there are many hikes up hill and down hill from Trongsa that take you to small villages where people live by farming and collecting firewood from the forests. The people of Trongsa are full of smiles and always welcome a good conversation with a traveler and hence interacting with them is a great way to understand local traditions and culture.

T Dzong as seen from Trongsa Dzong
Trongsa has a very laid back life and is perfect for those who love long walks, culture, heritage and mountain nature. One should try and stay here at least a couple of days, if not more and explore the heart of Royal Bhutan.

Continue Reading...

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Travel Photo: Bumthang Man opposite Kurje Lakhang, Bhutan

I was on my way to one of the top temples in Bhutan, the Kurje Lakhang in the Bumthang region of Bhutan, but prior to reaching this temple, I had walked for more than 10 kilometers and had a parched throat. It was cold and dry and I was on the look out for a hot cup of tea when I sighted this small shop opposite the Kuje Lakhang temple.

Bhutanese man looking out of his shop window near Kuje Lakhang, Bumthang
I did not find my hot cup of tea here, but was lucky enough to engage in some interesting conversation with the Bumthang local shopkeeper and he was kind enough to pose for me. His red lips (owing to chewing betel nut), the colourful window, my reflection in the slightly tinted window and the two telecom service provider stickers on the window glass make for a special memory for me. Even though I had no tea here, I still ended up chatting with this shopkeeper for more than 30 minutes.

Continue Reading...

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Hotel Norling: Comfortable Budget Hotel in Trongsa Town

Trongsa in Central Bhutan is a place worth staying for a couple of days as it offers a different view of Bhutan when compared to the typical valleys of the rest of the country. In a way, it is closer to East Bhutan than Central or Western Bhutan as it lies on a mountain rather than in a valley. While I was at Trongsa, I stayed in the town at a place called Hotel Norling. This review of mine is based on this recent experience of staying here for 2 nights and 3 days.

1) Hotel Norling is situated right in the heart of Trongsa town with good access to the restaurants, markets and other basic amenities.

2) It is also located at walking distance from Trongsa Dzong and T Dzong.

3) The rooms are modern, wooden rooms with a room heater, television, attached bathroom with running hot water and other basic, yet important amenities. The best part about these rooms is the beautiful view it offers of the mighty Trongsa Dzong. A cost of a room for one night (Indian rate) is INR/BTN 1200 for double occupancy.

4) The hotel is run by a family and the lady managing the day-to-day operations is extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

5) The hotel does not have any internet connectivity.

6) Hotel Norling has an in-house restaurant that dishes out some great Bhutanese and Indian dishes from 7 AM through 10 PM.

7) The place is also very close to the taxi and bus stands.

The place is ideal for those who look to stay in the heart of town, looking for decent accommodation at a budget price and wish to be in close proximity to the main tourist attractions.

Continue Reading...

Monday, January 06, 2014

Bumthang’s Swiss Guest House: Tucked amidst Apple and Pear Orchards

This is the oldest guest house in Bumthang and has prime location, but I dig this place for its amazing setting. It is set amidst lush apple and pear orchards. When I went there this winter, the orchard was dry, but I am sure it will be a sight to see during the monsoon months when the orchard is in full fruiting bloom. And I am so keen to stay here then. During my recent stay here, I stayed here for 8 days and 7 nights and the below review is based on this experience.

Swiss Guest house - Bumthang, Bhutan 
1) This place enjoys cult like status with tourists from the western world and especially Switzerland owing to its close connection with Swiss cheese and food.

2) This place is set in typical Bhutanese style a little away from the Chamkhar town and with a great view of Bumthang valley.

3) Each room is very comfortable with running hot water, a bukhari (wood based fire stove), a room heater and a complete pine wood design to keep you warm during the cold nights.

4) The people running this place are a family and take great care of their guests. They help with directions, planning, give tips and much more.

5) Most of the tourists to this place love the western styled food and wine here. In my case, I found the food a bit bland as it caters to a Western palate and not an Indian one. However, if informed in advance, they can dish out Bhutanese and/or Indian dishes, which are generally more spicy.

6) The rooms (for Indians) cost INR 1500 per night, but if you stay for longer durations, like how we did, you can pay a discounted rate of INR 1200 per night for the very comfortable room. Lunch and dinner costs between INR 350 to 500 depending on vegetarian or non-vegetarian food.

7) The guest house comes with internet connectivity that is fairly reliable and fast, which is a rare commodity in Bhutan.

8) One of the best things about this guest house are its open lawns surrounded by apple and pear orchards. This place is great to read a book with a hot cup of tea in the warm winter sun during the day time. In fact, I liked this place so much that this is what I ended up doing almost on all days.

9) If you are a dog lover, you will like this guest house as they have dogs in all sizes, about 6 or 7 in total and they give great company especially when you are in the holiday mood and feel like relaxing.

10) The only drawback of this place is that it is located a bit away from the Chamkhar town. While this is a problem if you like to go to the town often, it is a blessing if you like to be away from the hull-a-boo. Having a vehicle is advised else be ready to spend a lot of time walking like how I did.

11) The place is located close to the Cheese factory and the Red Panda beer factory as both of them are managed by the same management and it is easy to gain access to these establishments.

12) The property is also perfect for those hikers and nature lovers as it is set next to hills and lush forests.

Overall, this is one place I would love to go again and again and hopefully, I will get a chance when the orchards are in bloom. Those big orchards in bloom will be a sight to behold. I am so sure about that. I would recommend this place with many thumbs up!

Continue Reading...
Logo Credits : Jobi T Chacko. UI/UX Credits : Murugan S Thirumalai
Copyright © 2009-2025 Sankara Subramanian C (www.beontheroad.com)
Reproduction without explicit permission is prohibited. All Rights Reserved

Join the Travel Club for FREE!!
and every fortnight get in your inbox...interesting experiential and off-beat travel stories , destination guides, handy tips (travel, photography and visa) based on personal experience, global vegetarian delights with helpful survival guides and gorgeous world travel images and videos as I (the Indian traveler) trot the globe! And a lot of other travel invites and soon to be launched goodies !

* indicates required
Close