Festival of Thiruvathirai from a Traditional Tamil Nadu Village: A Photo Series

The festival of Thiruvathirai celebrates the birthday of Lord Natarajar (the dancing form of Lord Shiva). The festival is celebrated in the Margazhi Tamil month (December 15 to January 14) every year. It is a 10 day celebration that culminates on the full moon day (pournamasya) in the Margazhi month and that also happens to be the day when the moon is transiting through the Ardra nakshatra, the favourite nakshatra of Lord Shiva. During the first 9 days, rudra homam and other yagnam are done at the temple and each day the god and his consorts are decorated and taken to the streets on different vehicles (vahanam). On the final day of Thiruvathirai, festivities begin at 4 AM. All the temple gods are bathed in different spices, aromatic herbs and milk. Then, they are decorated. Then, the action shifts to a separate room in the temple, where Lord Natarajar and his consorts are given abhishekham, alangaram and maha mangalarti. The, they are taken to the streets in a large rath and they stop in front of each house so that the people of that house can give their offerings to the lord (fruits, coconut, vastram (clothes), betel leaves, etc.) and in return receive prasadam and the lord’s blessings. Somewhere during this rath yatra, the lord enacts a tandav (cosmic dance). The whole 10 days of this festival is full of intricate rituals, pomp, colour and glamour.

The cosmic dance of Shiva represents five activities – creation, protection, destruction, embodiment and release. In essence, it represents the continuous cycle of creation and destruction. This cosmic dance takes place in every particle and is the source of all energy. Thiruvathirai festival celebrates this ecstatic dance of Lord Shiva.

Kali and Thalagam is the main food offered to the lord on the festival day and it is later enjoyed by the devotees. Kali is prepared using rice, jaggery, moong dal, coconut and ghee. Thalagam is a vegetable broth that is prepared with the following vegetables – pumpkin, ash gourd, broad beans, sweet potato, potato, brinjal, colacasia, yam and plantain.

I got to experience all of this for the entire duration of the 10 day festival at the Chidambareswarar temple in the village of Kallidaikurichi in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu. This village nestled at the foot of the Western Ghats offers you a traditional experience of this fairly lesser known festival. I hope you can enjoy some flavour of these 10 festive days through this photo series. Detailed articles will follow soon.

Above photo: Lord Natarajar is taken on a goratham through the agraharam streets of Kallidaikurichi village. This is the only time during the festival that the lord graces his presence during the day. During this rath yatra, Lord Natarajar also enacts his tandav nach or cosmic dance by doing three fast rounds at the junction of two streets.



Above photo: Lord Natarajar takes to the streets of Kallidaikurichi on his favourite vrishabha vahanam (vehicle of the bull). Every evening at around 6 PM, the lord takes to the streets of the Kallidaikurichi village on the first 9 days of the festival.



Above photo: This is the final evening ratham where Lord Natarajar poses as Ganganadhanathar where he carries all the tools required for carrying out daily work and he comes along with a small vessel seeking alms from his devotees. This also happens to be the biggest evening ratham.



Above photo: Lord Natarajar at Chidambareswarar temple is all beautifully decked on the day of Thiruvathirai. As Lord Natarajar was born on this day, he is also known as Athiraiyan after the star on which he was born.



Above photo: Lord Natarajar and his consorts after the abhishekham and alangaram on Thiruvathirai festival day. Literary and historical evidence in the form of stone inscriptions state that the festival has been celebrated on this day for more than 1500 years.



Above photo: Lighting the lamps for the Mahamangalarti. Attending this festival in a small village temple allows you to see and understand all the things that go behind the scenes. Such things get missed when you are a bigger temple due to larger crowds and more noise.



Above photo: Different spices, aromatic herbs and cooling powders are added to the water prior to bathing the gods. Each of these powders make the bathing process a sight o behold as these rich colours perfectly contrast the pancha loha utsava moorthy or the black statues in the temple.



Above photo: On Thiruvathirai day, Lord Natarajar has left the temple premises on his goratham. This big rath needs a lot of people power and coordination as it makes its way through the streets of Kallidaikurichi agraharam.



Above photo: Goddess Sivagami is decked up beautifully with dry fruits, raisins, turmeric and flowers. Her face and is annointed with turmeric.Her body is made up of almonds and cashews. Her bindi, eyes, and crown (kreedam) is made of black raisins. Her ear rings and other decorative jewellery are made up of dry figs. This was all done by a skilled artisan from a nearby village.



Above photo: The beautifully decked up ratham of Lord Shiva. Once upon a time, it was pulled by bulls and hence its name ‘gau ratham’. Today, there are no bulls, but the ratham is pulled by humans. It is still called gau-ratham or goratham and the sight of Lord Natarajar on the goratham is a highly anticipated event of the year for the people of Kallidaikurichi village.

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Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand Cultural Spectacle in Rural Tamil Nadu

The Rath Yatra or the Chariot Festival is one of the best temple traditions to see in India. The Rath Yatra is actually the main event of this festival and there are key events that precede and succeed this temple chariot festival. I got to see one grand cultural spectacle in entirety at a traditional village in rural Tamil Nadu. This is the temple chariot festival of Kallidaikurichi’s Adi Varaha Perumal temple that spans 9 days and is locally called as Brahmotsavam.



Held in the Tamil month of Chithirai (April 14 to May 15), the annual festival of Brahmotsavam is the grandest festival of the temple and the entire temple and the agraharam streets surrounding the temple wear a festive look for 9 days. This Brahmotsavam is a great program of festivals extending over nine days. During this period, every morning and evening, Lord Adi Varaha perumal is taken out seated on a huge vehicle and carried through the different agraharam streets of Kallidaikurichi.



The commencement of the utsavam is marked by a ceremony called the Dhwajarohanam, or the hoisting of the flag. Prior to every start, holy water from the nearby Thamirabharani river is brought to the temple for all ablution rituals. This is followed by Sankalpam (holy declaration) , abhishekham (holy bathing), alangaram (holy decoration) and vahana seva. In this vahana seva, the lord is taken in a procession around the streets of Kallidaikurichi on different vahanas (vehicles). Each vahana has its own significance and conveys the lord’s message in its own way.



From the first day of the Brahmotsavam to the ninth day, the lord takes to the different streets of Kallidaikurichi every morning and evening in his different vahanams. Below is a day by day breakdown of the different vahanams and their true meaning. As the lord visits each street in his different vahanams, the devotees adorn the fronts of their homes with colourful homams and offer coconuts, fruits and betel leaves to the lord while admiring his new look and seeking his blessings.

Day 1: Sesha vahanam

The meaning of Sesha is ‘to serve’. Adi Sesha is a thousand-headed serpent, on whom Lord Maha Vishnu rests in his abode, Vaikuntam.

Day 2: Hamsa vahanam

Hamsa or Swan means ‘pure’. Hamsa is believed to have a high intellectual capability, and can distinguish the good from bad. It is for this very reason that Lord Brahma uses Hamsa not only as his vehicle, but also to chant the vedas (The Vedas are believed to have emanated from the soul of Vishnu).

Night 2: Aswa vahanam

Horses form one of the four wings (ratha, gaja, turanga and pada) of the military forces in the ancient times. Aswam, a symbol of energy, means ‘one who runs fast). Lord Vishnu travels on a horse when he goes for paruveta. According to Hindu mythology, the horse was born along with Sri Mahalakshmi, Airavatham and Amritham during Sheerasagaramadhanam.

Day 3: Simha vahanam

Simha (lion) is a symbol of regality and power. According to the Bhagavad Gita, the lord is the Simha among animals (mriganamcha mrigandroham). The Lord is also called Hari (which in turn means Simha) and Hari sits on Simha. In other words, we have the phenomenon of the Lord sitting on himself.

Night 3: Mutayalapandiri vahanam

In the night Oonjal seva is conducted. The deities then ride under a pearl canopy. Mutyam (pearl) is a symbol of purity and royalty.

Day 4: Kalpavriksha vahanam

Kalpavriksham is a tree that is believed to grant boons and fulfil wishes. The vehicle shaped like the Kalpavriksham signifies that the Lord grants boons and fulfils the wishes of his devotees.

Night 4: Sarvabhoopala vahanam

Sarvabhoopala means ‘all the kings of mother earth’. According to the Hindu religion, kings, like Lord Vishnu, should always protect their people (na vishnuhu prithivi patihi).



Day 5: Mohini Avatarotsavam on palaku (palanquin)

According to legend, the devatas and asuras performed Ksheerasagaramandhanam that resulted in amrit (nectar which when consumed grants immortality) and other sacred qualities. The devatas and the asuras fought for the possession of the Amrit. Lord Vishnu then assumed the form of Mohini (a beautiful woman) and procured the Amrit for the devatas.

Night 5: Garuda vahanam

According to the ancient Hindu texts, Garuda, the king of birds, is a replica of the Vedas (vedatma vihamgeswara), while Lord Vishnu is the God of the Vedas. Therefore, the lord sees himself in Garuda. In the Vaishnava Puranas, Garuda is called periyatiruvadi, meaning the first devotee. Therefore, Lord Vishnu selected Garuda as his vehicle for the most important day of the Brahmotsavam. Garuda vahanam is the greatest of all the vahanams.

Day 6: Hanumad vahanam

Hanuman is one of the greatest devotees of Sri Rama, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Hanuman served the lord so faithfully that even the lord could not thank Hanuman enough. Devotees believe that they are indeed blessed if they catch a glimpse of the Lord on Hanumad vahanam.

Night 6: Gaja vahanam

Gajam (elephant) is also called the samajam (born from Sama Veda). It symbolizes wealth (gajamtam aishvaryam). It also symbolizes the Airavatam – the vehicle of Indra, the head of the heavens in Hindu mythology). It can also be attributed to the elephant in Gajendramoksham (story from Mahabhaghavatam), which is saved from a crocodile by Lord Vishnu.

Day 7: Suryaprabha vahanam

Surya (the Sun), the son of Aditi, is another form of Lord Vishnu (Surya Narayana). Hindu mythology supports the heliocentric theory and believes that Lord Vishnu is the centre of the universe (dhyassada savitrumandala madhyavarthi).

Night 7: Chandraprabha vahanam

Chandra, means the Moon, which is considered cool and pleasant. According to Hindu mythology, Chandra is the commander of the mind (chandrama manaso jataha). He is also the king of aushadham (medicine). It is believed that riding in the Chandraprabha vahanam is a soothing experience for the lord. The Lord’s contentment will bring peace to devotees’ minds and result in a good crop.



Day 8: Big Rath Yatra

On the penultimate day, Rathotsavam is celebrated, in which the Lord is seated in a ratham (chariot) and taken in a procession in the morning. The route taken by the Lord is called the Rathaveedhi and it does a circumambulation of the Adi Varaha Perumal temple. Tens of thousands of devotees come early in the morning to offer their prayers to the lord and then hold on to the chains of the chariot to pull it through the Rathaveedhi. It is believed that those who witness Rathotsavam will not be reborn (rathotsavam kesavam dristva punarjanma na vidyate).

The idols of Daruka (the charioteer of Lord Sri Krishna) and the four horses (Saibhyam, Sugreevam, Meghapushpam and Valahakam) are placed before the decorated idols of the Lord and his consorts. This symbolizes that the lord’s charioteer is driving the chariot.

As the Ratham goes around the Rathaveedhi, one can hear chants of ‘Govinda! Govinda! and Adi Varaha! Adia Varaha!. The energy is high and devotees offer food and drinks to the people pulling the chariot. Ambulances and police are on standby in case of any emergencies. It takes close to three hours for the Rathotsavam from start of its journey to end. People from nearby villages, nearby cities and even families of people hailing from Kallidaikurichi, but living all over the world, arrive to see this Rathotsavam from close quarters. The Ratha is colourful, the energy is infectious and the festival a grand cultural spectacle.

In the evening, the lord and his consorts are taken back into the temple amidst full fanfare.

Day 9: Last Day

On the last day, Pallaki seva and Chakrasnanam mahotsavam is performed in the morning. Water from the Thamirabharani river is brought to the temple and the processional idols are bathed with it. Abhisekham, alangaram and mahamangalarti is done. Then the garuda flag is lowered. This signifies the end of the Brahmotsavam festival.




It will be a dream come true if you can experience all the nine days of the Brahmotsavam up close. The rich heritage, the amazing culture, the colourful vehicles, the powerful hymns and the infectious energy can all be experienced at once. And to top it all, you get to seek the lord’s blessings on all the days. If you cannot attend all days, then you should definitely make time for the Big Rath Yatra or the Rathotsavam, the grand annual festival of the Adi Varaha Perumal temple.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Tuticorin airport, located 75 kilometres away. Tuticorin has daily flights connecting it with Bangalore and Chennai. The other nearest airports are Madurai (180 kms away) and Thiruvananthapuram (140 kms away).

The nearest large railway station is Tirunelveli junction, which is well connected with the rest of the country. The nearest railway station is Kallidaikurichi itself, but only local passenger trains stop here.

The nearest large bus station is Tirunelveli. Regular buses ply between Tirunelveli and Kallidaikurichi throughout the day and night. Kallidaikurichi is 35 kms from Tirunelveli and a typical bus ride takes about 60 to 70 minutes.



When does this festival happen:

The Adi Varaha temple chariot festival takes place in the Chithirai month (between April 14 and May 15). The festivities span 10-12 days, with each day marked for a different activity. The big rath yatra takes place on the final day of all the festivities.



Where to stay:

Kallidaikurichi is the kind of place where you should stay at one of the agraharam homes. It will allow you to experience the true culture of this village. You could either stay with any of your local friends in their homes, at any local guest houses or at airbnbs.

If you prefer hotels, you can try the modest Bhaskar Lodge at Kallidaikurichi and the slightly better Hotel Ambai Grand at Ambasamudram. For higher quality hotels, you will have to head to Tirunelveli, about 35 kms away.

If you prefer staying in nature, try any of the forest bungalows located inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve or the farm stays or resorts near Courtallam (50 kms away).



Where to eat:

Kallidaikurichi has a few places to eat like Kannan mess where you can find tiffin items like idli, vada and dosa. For something more elaborate, try Hotel Ramanas or Hotel Gauri Shankar at Ambasamudram, two kilometers away.

If you are staying at a guest house with an in-house kitchen, then you are all set for food.

If you are staying at a house or in an Airbnb, you can try the meals and tiffin items of Varaha mess or Delhi mama. They offer a wide variety of choices and food is usually delivered to your door step.



Other famous festivals to see at Kallidaikurichi:

1) Garuda Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi

2) Maha Shivaratri

3) Karthigai Deepam

4) Pongal

5) Thiruvatharai



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Kallidaikurichi to Manimuthar Dam: A top scenic and rustic cycling route

2) Thamirabharani river at Kallidaikurichi: A great Western Ghat river to take a refreshing bath

3) The hidden gem called Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

4) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the Saaral season

5) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature

6) 1000 year old Papanasathar Temple at Papanasam: Where you can wash all your sins away

7) Manjolai: The offbeat hill station of Tamil Nadu

8) Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy Temple: Magnificent 10th century temple with a Ashtanga vimana



9) Sivasailam temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats

10) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East monsoon in India

11) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s Deep South

12) Courtallam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu

13) 10th century Kailasanathar temple at Brahmadesam

14) 10th century Valiswara temple at Thiruvaleeswaram

15) Manimuthar Falls: A great forest waterfall

16) Agastyar Falls: A great waterfall to bathe in the Western Ghats

17) Paana Theertham Falls: A hidden waterfall gem of Tamil Nadu

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The Festival of Karthigai Deepam from a Traditional Tamil Nadu Village

Most of us Indians associate only the festival of Deepavali with the festival of lights, but there is another traditional Indian festival that is also the festival of lights. This festival is called Karthika Deepam, an ancient Tamil festival that is celebrated on the Poornima (full moon) night of the Karthik month. It is also called Karthik Poornima in our country. It is mainly celebrated by the people of South India, but also celebrated in Sri Lanka, South East Asia and China. In Thailand, it goes by the name of Loi Krathong in Thailand, ‘Tazaungdaing festival’ in Myanmar, Full moon poya in Sri Lanka, Lantern festival in China and Bon Om Touk in Laos.



One of the earliest references to the festival is found in the Akananuru, a book of poems that dates back to the Sangam period (200 BCE to 300 CE). Karthika Deepam is dedicated to Lord Karthikeya (Murugan) and Lord Shiva according to two different legends. On this day, one can find all Murugan and Shiva temples to be jampacked with devotees. The most iconic scenes can be seen at the Arunachaleswarar temple at Tiruvannamalai in Tamil Nadu.

     
    
Most Indians hardly know about this festival. In Indian cities, you can see a very small number of homes lighting lamps on this day, but that is not the case in this traditional Tamil Nadu village where I saw this festival being celebrated with full vigour, pomp and fervour. The whole village was illuminated with lamps, lights and crackers.
   
     
    
Festival action begins a couple of days before the actual festival. People clean their homes, bring out all their brass and silver lamps from the lockers and clean them till they shine. On the evening of Karthigai deepam, the whole village washes the front of their houses, decorate with kolam (rangoli) either with rice powder, colours or both. They then keep the lamps on top of this rangoli facing east. Each lamp is decorated with vermilion, sandalwood and flowers.     
   
     
    
Just before sunset, the ladies of each house, come out of their homes decked in traditional attire. They then light the lamps after doing pooja and mangalarti. By now, dusk has started setting in and the lamps in front of each house shine brighter. You can hear all kinds of slogams and hymns either sung by the people or played in their electronic devices at their homes.
   
     
    
Once darkness sets in, people start bursting crackers, lighting sparklers and burning chakris. For a moment, you feel it is the festival of Deepavali all over again. While the lamps are burning bright, the whole village is sitting in front of their homes, wishing everyone a happy karthikai deepam and enjoying neighbouring gossip.    
   


As the oil in the lamps start running out, the villagers start chanting hymns and slowly extinguish the flame in the lamps. By half past seven, all the lamps have gone back inside into the house and the festive atmosphere of the evening seems to have disappeared. This is when all the villagers happen to visit the nearby Shiva, Murugan and Perumal temples to seek the blessings of the lord.

     

This evening ritual repeats itself every evening starting just before sunset for the next seven days. This is how the village of Kallidaikurichi, a traditional Brahmin agraharam celebrates the festival of Karthikai Deepam in the deep south of Tamil Nadu in India. Everything about the celebration is a joy to watch and offers a good insight into your rich ancient culture.



Have you experienced such rich celebrations of the Karthikai Deepam festival anywhere in India? Have you experienced our traditional Indian festivals in rural India? If so, do share your experiences in the comments below.

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Festival of Shivaratri from a Traditional Tamil Nadu Village

There is so much more to India’s rich festivals than wearing new clothes, eating good food and catching up with family and friends. While all of these are feel good factors of our festivals, there is so much richness and culture in our festivals. And unfortunately, this culture is not easily seen in our cities. To see this, we have to head to rural India where the people still keep this richness alive. 



Luckily for me, I was at a traditional village called Kallidaikurichi in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu a few weeks back during the festival of Shivaratri. Unlike the festival of Pongal which is very vibrant in the villages of Tamil Nadu, the festival of Shivaratri is more subtle or at least that is the case during the day time. The day starts as usual with a bath in the Thamarabharani river, offering prayers at the nearby temple and then heading home. Most people either opt to keep a full fast or at least stay on a liquid diet. The whole day is spent chanting hymns of Lord Shiva, chanting Om Namah Shivaya, writing Om Namah Shiva or just reading his stories of Lord Shiva. The idea is to celebrate Lord Shiva in any way they deem appropriate.



Shivaratri celebrations that are muted during the day, pick up speed post 8 pm. The people take their evening shower, dress up in traditional attire and head to their nearest Shiva temple. Between 9 and 10 pm, the main festivities begin. The gods, shrines and the temple is well decorated. The devotees light up the temple lamps for the night long festival.



The festivities begin with the alankaram and mangalarti during which the priest and devotees sing hymns and the temple bells keep gonging. Then, the utsava moorthy is loaded on to a chariot for a procession around the temple for 3 pradakshinams (circumambulation). Devotees follow the chariot of the utsava moorthy and sing praises to Lord Shiva. This process repeats every 2 hours till sunrise the next day, when the last mangalarti signifies the end of the Shivaratri festivities.



The whole night, the villagers stay inside the temple, reading holy verses or singing hymns dedicated to Lord Shiva. In spite of the lack of food and sleep, people are buoyant and feel joyous. There is a sense of elation after spending the entire night awake and most people who stay awake on Shivaratri at the Shiva temple have been doing it for many years.

To experience the Shivaratri festive fervour, you should spend at least a couple of hours inside the night, if not the entire night.



In addition to understanding the culture and traditions behind the festival of Mahashivaratri, you can also get to feel the energy of praising Lord Shiva, even if it is for a short while. Such is the charm of celebrating the festival of Maha Shivaratri at a traditional Tamil Nadu village. The rustic ambience, the rich culture on display and the energetic local people are just an icing on the cake.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Tuticorin international airport, about 75 kms away. You would need to hire a taxi in advance to pick you up at the airport and drop you at Kallidaikurichi.

The nearest long distance railway station would be Tirunelveli, about 35 kms away. One can either take a connecting passenger train to Kallidaikurichi or travel by road (car or bus) to Kallidaikurichi. Tirunelveli is well connected with other large Indian cities like Chennai, Bangalore and Mumbai.

Kallidaikurichi is well connected by road. The 4 lane Bangalore – Salem – Kanyakumari highway is just 30 kms away. About 50 kms towards West is the Kerala state border. Volvo sleepers, AC buses and state government buses ply these highways every day connecting major cities.



Where to stay:

It would be ideal to stay with a local family in their traditional home. If you do not have that option, try staying at Hotel Bhaskar Lodge, just a kilometer away from the Shiva temple, at the hotels in Ambasumudram a few kilometers away or at the much nicer hotels at Tirunelveli, about 35 kms away.

 

Where to eat:

If you stay with a local family, you will definitely get treated to delicious local food. If you don’t have that option, there are a few small restaurants in Kallidaikurichi that dish out local tiffin items in the morning and evening. For a much better local dining experience, head to Hotel Ramanas at Ambasamudram a few kilometers away. They offer delicious traditional lunch and a wide variety of local snacks that change every day of the week.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) 1000 year old Papanasanathar Temple: Where you can wash all your sins away

2) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep south

3) The hidden gem called Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

4) Nellaiappar Temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder

5) Thamirabharani river delta: A motorcycle route full of rustic gorgeousness

6) Tiruchendur Murugan Temple: Sea Shore Magic

7) Courtallam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu

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Festival of Pongal from a Traditional Tamil Nadu Village

You have to love India for its incredible festivals. We seem to have so many of them, but in spite of these huge numbers we still end up celebrating our festivals with gusto. And the fervour is more in the Indian countryside where we still follow the ancient traditions and cultures and the joy of celebrating the festival is very much intact and untarnished.



One such festival that I got to see at close quarters is the Tamil festival of Pongal, which celebrates the northern movement of the sun (Uttarayan), Makara Sankranthi and welcomes the first harvest of rice in the year. I know that I am about 2 months too late to get this across to you, but nonetheless it is an experience that I wanted to share with all for you to enjoy and experience in future years to come.



The village where I experienced this festival is a traditional Tamil Nadu village called Kallidaikurichi that is tucked by the fertile banks of the Thamarabarani river in the Tirunelveli district. This village located right under the towering Western Ghats, is known for its iconic saaral season, its appalams, its orthodox brahmin culture and  rich traditions, its laidback environment and its river and canals.



This village in India’s deep south happens to be my ancestral village and hence offered a comfortable base from where I could experience the largest and the richest festival of Tamil Nadu. The festival of Pongal usually lasts for four days starting with the Bhogi festival and followed by Thai Pongal, Maatu Pongal and Kaanum Pongal. Even though the actual festival is celebrated on these four days, work begins much before, some even a couple of weeks before.



Nearly all households get their entire homes thoroughly cleaned and then they ensure that their home is given a fresh coat of paint. While the modern houses get to choose from the diverse color palette offered by the paint manufacturers, the traditional houses, especially the ones located in the Agraharam, they use limestone (locally known as sunnambu) mixed with indigo as the main coat and then, they use the rust or red color for decorations, akin to the look of the traditional temples of Tamil Nadu.



The markets too are not far away from the festive action. Two to three days before the start of the festival, truck loads of colorful flowers, massive stalks of sugarcane, fresh roots of turmeric, lots of banana stems and many varieties of bananas and other traditional fruits arrive at the local market. Locals throng to the market to buy these festive essentials. The ones who buy early can drive a price bargain and those who buy on the day of the festival end up paying the price quoted by the shopkeeper as they know these items are in heavy demand.



For me, the days preceding to the festival were as vibrant and action packed like the festival itself. Early morning and late evening walks to the local flower, vegetable and fruit market would be an absolute treat to the senses. The biggest crowds would be at the textile shops where people were buying everything from sarees to shirts, dhotis and more. And the best part of the pre-festival preparation is that everyone seems to have a sparkle in their eyes and a spring in their steps. After all, this is the state’s largest festival and for four days, everything literally comes to a standstill and all people do is wear new clothes, eat good food, visit temples and have a good time with family and friends.



The day preceding Thai Pongal or Makara Sankranthi is the day of the Bhogi festival when people wake up at dawn and light up a bonfire with old clothes and belongings. This is believed to get rid of all evil and old and welcome the new. The cattle herders and farmers also paint the horns of their buffalos, cows and oxen on this day. During the day, the entire house is cleaned and decorated with flowers, banana stems and sugarcane stalks. On the night of this Bhogi festival, people keep a lot of fruits, vegetables, sugarcane stalks, banana stems and more in front of their prayer room.



The 2nd day is the main festival day. It is the day of Makara Sankranthi and also of Thai Pongal. As soon as people wake up, they are supposed to look at the fruits, veggies, sugarcane stalks and banana stems so that the rest of the year is bountiful for them. Then, everyone’s head in the household is anointed with sesame oil and they then take a bath and wear new clothes. Then, the action either shifts to the part of the house which gets direct sunlight (in the case of the Brahmins) or to the street in front of the house (in case of the other castes).



Here, the women of the household draw a colorful kollam or Rangoli on the ground and then set up the makeshift stove to cook the Pongal. Once the fire is burning, the women mount a traditional brass or stainless steel vessel on top of the stove, add milk to it and wait for the milk to boil. Once the milk starts overflowing, the women add freshly harvested rice grains to it, they blow a conch, ring a bell and then make a sound called olave while everyone shouts ‘Pongalo Pongal’. They then offer look up at the Sun god, offer him their respects and send a silent prayer hoping for a bountiful harvest all year long.



Once the prayers have been offered to the Sun God, the action shifts indoors and to the dining table where a feast consisting of Vennu Pongal (Salty and Spicy Rice Dish), Sakarai Pongal (Sweet Jaggery based rice dish), vadai, murukku and payasam has been prepared. After the delightful and delicious breakfast, the entire family make their way to the temple to offer their respect to the lord and to seek his blessings. The rest of the day is a combination of family get togethers, more delicious meals, a day trip to nearby scenic getaways and some home entertainment.



The third day of the Pongal festival is for the cattle. Called Maattu Pongal, this day is known for Jallikattu or the bull taming game. Even though a lot of animal welfare groups want this activity to be banned, the Jallikattu still takes place and is extremely popular in Madurai and nearby districts. In spite of the threat of injuries, a lot of brave men try their hand at taming the bull. The winners get cash prizes  or household items like a refrigerator, television, gas stove, blender, grinder, etc. While we all hear and see the Jallikattu on the TV, the true festival is for the cattle, where in, they are bathed, decorated with flowers and vermilion and treated to delicious fruits, sugarcane and food. In many places, people also celebrate Kanu Pidi, where the young women and girls feed crows and other birds and pray for the welfare of their brothers.



The fourth or the last day of the Pongal festival is called Kaanum or Kanni Pongal. This is the day of family excursions and get together. The idea is to for all the family to be together, be happy, eat good food and celebrate the festival together. A lot of people are also known to gamble on this day and eat non vegetarian food.



In all the four days of this festival and the days preceding it, there is vibrancy in the atmosphere and there is a lot of sumptuous food on the table. Colorful scenes, happy faces, beautiful kollam (in front of the houses), gorgeously decked ladies and a total party atmosphere is how I would describe the Tamil festival of Pongal. The experience of celebrating this festival in a traditional Tamil Nadu village just makes it a whole lot sweeter, richer and surreal. I hope you get to experience this too in the years to come!

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