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Thursday, October 17, 2013

Top 5 Favorite Destinations in Vietnam

Vietnam is one of those South East Asian countries that has beautiful tourist attractions right from the south to the north. I spent close to 40 days in this country across 2 backpacking trips and based on this experience below are my top 5 favorite destinations of Vietnam.

Hoi An
Sunset at the Hoi An Riverside
In my mind, this is Vietnam’s cultural hub. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a shopping hub, close to the yesteryears Hindu kingdom of My Son, has beaches, has tropical islands around it, has a river flowing through it and has marble mountains next to it. What more can one ask for? This place deserves the most of your Vietnam time as this place has variety, class and very friendly people. I totally dig this place, the relaxed atmosphere of having dinner at its river side restaurants, diving amidst the white corals of its offshore islands, exploring its rich cultural past and seeing true Vietnam countryside around it.

Tam Coc @ Ninh Binh
View from Hang Mua, Vietnam
This place is Halong bay on land. For some reason, I like this place more than Halong Bay. The mighty limestone karsts, the green paddy fields and the snaking river cast a scene out of a fairy tale. And the best part is that it is not as expensive or crowded as Halong Bay. And the more you stay at Ninh Binh, the more rare discoveries you make.

Halong Bay
Sunset over Halong Bay, Vietnam
If there is one place that people think of when you mention Vietnam, it has to be Halong Bay. It is a natural wonder and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The views of these limestone hills jutting out of the sea with mist surrounding them is a sight to die for. Climbing the crags and jumping into the sea from a height of 20 feet is possibly one of the best thrills of Halong. Going on a boat cruise and kayaking through the bay has to be a close second. The jungles of Cat Ba island are also a great allure.

SaPa
Scenic Hikes through the villages around Sapa, Vietnam
The mountains of north west Vietnam with its different tribes, terraced rice plantations, gorgeous mountain hikes and scenic natural beauty is very unlike Vietnam, but its beauty makes it one of Vietnam’s top attractions. It’s mountain culture, its cooler climes and its laid back atmosphere makes it special.

Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City
Vietnam Paddy FieldsThis is the bustling capital of Vietnam. It’s French architecture, it’s gory past, it’s unlimited shopping opportunities and its proximity to the Mekong delta gives it a special edge. Whether you are exploring it from the Saigon river or from inside the Cu Chi tunnels, this metropolis has a lot to offer. It’s high two wheeler population is also a sight to see, though one cannot see it for too long.

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Saturday, March 09, 2013

My Son: Hinduism in Vietnam

Today, Hinduism is a religion that is more or less limited to India, but in yester years, it had spread its wings far into the east. Sri Lanka, Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar, Indonesia and even Vietnam had prominent and successful Hindu kingdoms. The eastern most Hindu kingdom that ever existed was at My Son in Central Vietnam. It is perhaps the longest inhabited archaeological site in Indo china, but a large portion of its architecture was destroyed by US carpet bombing during a single week of the Vietnam war.

Beautiful green ruins of My Son Kingdom - a UNESCO World Heritage Site
This UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a cluster of Hindu temples in ruins that are dedicated to the worship of Lord Shiva, who was known under various local names, the most important of which is Bhadresvara. It was sometime between the 4th and the 13th centuries that this Indian Hinduism culture developed on the coast of contemporary Vietnam. This was the Champa kingdom and My Son was its religious and political capital. Today, the entire site is located in the Duy Xuyen district of Quang Nam province in Central Vietnam and is located about 50 kilometers south of the tourist hot spot of Hoi An, which is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Archaeology folks are still trying to put together the blocks of the My Son Hindu Temples
The My Son monuments are considered unique and without equal in Southeast Asia. It is an exceptional example of cultural exchange, with an indigenous society adapting to external cultural influences, notably the Hindu art and architecture of the Indian sub-continent. And the Champa kingdom was an important phenomenon in the political and cultural history of Southeast Asia, which is vividly illustrated by the ruins of My Son.

Beautiful Apsaras dancing at My Son, Vietnam
The My Son temple complex is regarded as one of the foremost Hindu temple complexes in Southeast Asia and is the foremost heritage site of this nature in Vietnam. It is often compared with other historical temple complexes in Southeast Asia such as Borobudur of Java in Indonesia, Angkor Wat of Cambodia, Bagan of Myanmar and Ayutthaya of Thailand.

Weather and War Beaten statue at My Son, Vietnam
This extinct civilization that exists today in ruins looks magnificent against the green mountains and on closer inspection makes you realize that not only the views, but the entire civilization behind it in its hey days was very grand. One can get a good idea about the place, the culture and its rich history by visiting the museum of cham culture at Danang and then the My Son temple complex to understand the depth of architecture, the influence of Hinduism and the seamless merging with the Cham culture.

Traditional Dance at My Son, Vietnam
This place, restored and resurrected by French scholars before and after the war can be viewed in different clusters. A and B form the largest of the temples in the complex and house a lot of shrines to worship Shiva, his consorts, Ganesha and more. The other smaller temples like C, D, E, F, G, H, K are still being restored or have been damaged beyond recognition. One can see a lot of bomb craters in their space.

Traditional Music at My Son, Vietnam
To enter the My Son sanctuary one needs to purchase a ticket that costs 100,000 VND or ~5 USD. This ticket allows you to explore the entire temple complex and see a complimentary dance of the Cham culture performed by the local artists living here. Days can be really warm and hence most tourists visit during the early morning or late afternoon hours. A complete visit, including the Cham dance program should take you 3 to 4 hours.

Traditional Apsara Dance at My Son, Vietnam
The sanctuary does not provide you with an audio guide, but you can hire an external guide to help you understand the history. If you are a fan of Hinduism or would like to see the remains of an ancient civilization, then you should visit My Son. After all, it is a remarkable architectural ensemble that developed over a period of ten centuries and presents a vivid picture of spiritual and political life in an important phase of the history of Southeast Asia.

Champa Kingdom Ruins at My Son, Vietnam
I would totally recommend it based on my recent visit here. The UNESCO World Heritage site that includes the temple sanctuary, the Apsara dance, the lovely countryside with paddy fields and the lush green experience makes this a must-see destination in Vietnam.

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Thursday, February 28, 2013

Hoi An: History, Beaches, Riverside, Rich Culture, Relaxed Atmosphere and Great Shopping

Hoi An is often dubbed as the best shopping destination of Vietnam. It definitely stands up to this tag, but it is not just shopping that draws hoards of tourists here. The old quarter of Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that used to be a thriving South East Asian trading port between the 15th and the 19th century. Then there are the beautiful beaches located a short ride away and the white coral islands about a 30 minute boat ride away. Then, there is the relaxed atmosphere of the ancient town with its river side, good night life and museums.

The Hoi An Old Town View
Hoi An, located about 35 kilometers south of Danang in Central Vietnam was a port and trading center of the local Sa Huynh people along the Thu Bon river as early as the 2nd century BC. This continued to expand, and by the 15th century, Hoi An was already the most important port of the powerful Champa kingdom. It continued after the Vietnamese absorption of the Champa kingdom in the same capacity, becoming one of the most important centers of mercantile, and hence cultural, exchange in South-East Asia.

Ancient House in Hoi An
It was through Hoi An that Christianity penetrated in the 17th century. It retained its role as the main port of the central region throughout the 19th century, when the Nguyen dynasty kings operated a ‘closed trade policy’. By the end of the century, the rise of other ports on the coast of Vietnam, in particular Da Nang, and silting of its harbor, led to the final eclipse of Hoi An. As a result of this economic stagnation, Hoi An has preserved its early appearance in a remarkably intact state.

Clothes and tailoring can be seen everywhere in Hoi An, Vietnam
In this intact state of Hoi An, one can see ancient houses, community houses, pagodas from the 19th century, a fine wooden bridge reminiscent of Japanese examples and many ancient tombs built in Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese styles. This architecture of Hoi An, which is built entirely of wood, if of considerable interest as it combines traditional Vietnamese designs and techniques with those from other countries, above all China and Japan, whose citizens settled there to trade and built houses and community centers to all their designs.

The famous covered Japanese Bridge of Hoi An's Old Quarter
This Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage site, one has to pay USD 5 or 90,000 VND as entrance fee to enter the key buildings of interest. However, walking by these buildings and in the town is free of cost. Since Hoi An is a small town, it retains some of the original country side charm of Vietnam with its lively markets, busy river side business center, lush green paddy fields and a very easy lifestyle.

A Shoe Shop in the old quarter of Hoi An, Vietnam
In the last few decades from the time tourism really picked up here, the people of Hoi An have started renouncing traditional lifestyles to get into the tourism market. This has led to a whole bunch of shopping areas in Hoi An where one can buy all sorts of goods in Hoi An, especially clothes and shoes. The tailoring in Hoi An is supposed to be one of the best in Vietnam. A lot of tourists come here to get their suits done for a decent price, but more importantly within 24 hours. You will get a flavor of it as soon as you arrive in Hoi An as a lot of young to middle aged women will attempt to interact with you and then finally ask you if you are interested in getting some clothes custom fitted for you.

Sunset at the Hoi An Riverside
As a town, Hoi An is very small and hence most of its charms, restaurants, river sides and countryside can either be explored on foot (I prefer walking) or on a bicycle (this is the what a lot of tourists prefer). Hoi An is best explored on either of these two as it allows you to soak in the easy and yet very cultural side of Hoi An. It is also a good way of slowly exploring the entire old quarter of Hoi An, which turns into a no-vehicle zone in the evening.

Hoi An Riverside action
In terms of places to visit nearby, there are the Cua Dai and Aang Bang beaches. Cua Dai is more a local beach that is busy every evening, while the Aang Bang is slightly more quiet with great waters for swimming and a long beach for sun bathing. Then, there is the ‘Marble Mountains’ between Hoi An and Danang. The caves systems, the line of marble shops selling up to 50 tons of carved marble and the aerial views of the azure coastline are the highlights of the ‘Marble Mountains’.

Old Women make a living by rowing boats at Hoi An
On the other side of Hoi An is the UNESCO World Heritage Site and Hindu kingdom of My Son that was the headquarters of the Champa kingdom in the 8th century. Today, the place exists in ruins (thanks to the bombings during the Vietnam-America war), but the ruins located within thick forests has a lot of archaeological importance as this is where an entire Hindu empire used to prosper. It also depicts the power India used to have in those times.

Boats at Hoi An's riverside ready to take you on a cruise
Apart from these places of interest, Hoi An has a long river system, waves of green rice paddies, beautiful country side life, swaying coconut palms and more that can be explored at leisure. The town has enough in it to keep you interested at least for a week if not more. I stayed here for 1 week and wished I could stay longer. May be, I will go fulfill that dream by returning here some time soon and stay longer.

Lush Green Hoi An, Vietnam
If you love shopping, I doubt you will ever get time to explore places around Hoi An. Such is the depth of street shopping here. You might find the fancy bags and the designer labels, but Hoi An has its own sweet way of keeping the female mind very interested.

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Thursday, February 21, 2013

Mrs. Flower’s Homestay: Comfortable and budget house for backpackers in Hoi An, Vietnam

In a city like Hoi An, one should try and stay in a local’s house than in a hotel. The reasons are plenty. The locals of Hoi An are very friendly, their houses are away from the busy area and hence quieter, you get more for a lesser price, you get to stay with a local family who don’t pester you to buy anything and you get easy accessibility to the restaurants and the happening parts of town. These are the reasons why I moved from a hotel after 1 night and stayed 6 nights and 7 days at Mrs.Flower’s Homestay on 39, Thai Phien street. Below review is based on my recent experience.

1) Mrs. Flower’s Homestay is run by a local Vietnamese lady Mrs. Flower and her husband. She lets out 3 rooms. The rooms are fairly large, accommodate a double bed, a wardrobe, a refrigerator, an air-conditioner and a private/shared bathroom.

2) The room prices vary from $10 to $12 per night depending on the size of the room. This is way less than what the hotels charge for a similar sized room.
 
3) The family living in this house are very helpful. They try and help you out with languages, directions, best times, best places to eat, cheap places, etc.

4) Mineral water bottles are kept outside each room and one pays only for the water they consume. Free wi-fi is available, but the reception is stronger in the ground floor. Tenants can also use the laundry machine for a small fee. You use it, you take it out and dry it out on the terrace concept.

5) If there is a problem with this place, it is the 11 PM tock down. Sometimes, you feel like spending a late night out with friends or being in a bar or restaurant till past mid night. This is not possible here as the doors to the house shut at 11 PM.

6) In my room, the AC was there, but it was under repair and since it was the Tet holidays no one could come to repair. May be it was my bad luck, but things happen a bit slower in the house when compared to a hotel. Thankfully, the weather was pleasant and my room had a large window thus allowing good air circulation.

7) The cheap restaurants are all close by and even the main shopping district is just a short walk away.

8) If you want to either rent a motorcycle or a bicycle, you can directly approach Mrs. Flower or go to any of the multiple shops near by. A cycle should cost you 10 to 30,000 dong depending on the condition and a motorbike between $4 and $5 per day.

9) Most of the tour booking agencies are located close by and within walking distance. Since Hoi An is a small town, everything is within walking distance. The super marts are also close by and if you want, you can store perishables in your room’s refrigerator.

10) The family staying in this house are very friendly and will always invite you for food and drinks.

11) Most of the people living in the house sleep by 11 PM and hence you will have to get into hostel mode and keep the decibel level down after 10 PM.

This place is ideal for budget travelers and couples who like to stay long durations and like to stay away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist districts. If you would like to book here, you can contact them by phone at +84 983150329 or by email at hoaflower80@hotmail.com.

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Monday, February 18, 2013

Travel Photo: Souvenir Shop in Hoi An, Vietnam

The old quarter of Hoi An is full of color. While history is all around the old quarter, today, it is more known as the shopping district of central Vietnam. Shoes, clothes, tailoring outfits, souvenir shops and many more adorn these small alleys.

Souvenir shop in the old quarter of Hoi An, Vietnam
This is one such colorful souvenir shop that I came across while walking the riverside area of the old quarter. While the smaller shops close down after sun down, the bigger ones stay up with bright lights making for a different view in the evenings.

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