Karisoolnthamangalam Chakrathalwar Temple: Scenic 1000 year old Vishnu temple located on the banks of the Thamirabharani river

This is a 1000 year old Pandya era temple that is located at a scenic location by the banks of the Thamirabharani river. Large native trees, palm trees, paddy fields and banana plantations surround this temple and this lush environment with abundant water attract lots of birds all year round. The temple is fairly small in size, but it enjoys a lot of rich history and many unique highlights. One special feature of this temple is that all the devotees who worship here get conferred with long life and a healthy body. I am talking about the Chakrathalwar temple at Karisoolnthamangalam village near Pattamadai in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu.



The presiding deity or the moolavar of this temple is Chakrathalwar (He is also believed to be the athipathy of Shukhran, making this temple a Shukra Parihara Sthalam) who is seen with 16 hands. Behind him is Lord Yoga Narasimha with four hands holding Sudarshana Chakra in each hand and no Sangu. It is said that the moolavar possesses the characters of Varaha and Narasimha avatars. The processional deity or the utsava moorthy is Venkatachalapathy with Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi. Usually in Vishnu temples, it is the moolavar who is Venkatachalapathy and here it is the opposite, which makes it quite unique and rare. The temple has sub shrines for Hanuman, Garudan and the Alwars.



As per the inscription of 1250 AD dating to the rule of Sundara Pandya II, this temple was referred to as ‘Then Thiruvengadam’ and the place itself was called ‘Kali Say Mangalam’, which over time became Karisoolnthamangalam. Romana Rishi undertook penance at this temple and performed pooja thus invoking the blessings of Lord Venkatachalapathy.



While the temple holds rich historical and spiritual significance, the Chakrathalwar temple at Karisoonlnthamangalam enjoys fabulous location. Access to the temple is only via gorgeously green paddy fields and banana plantations and sleepy villages. The road reaches a dead end at the temple and beyond lies the beautiful expanse of the Thamirabharani river that looks more like a wide lake here rather than a rocky flowing river that can seen upstream. This temple is a beautiful mix of stunning nature, rustic countryside and an ancient pilgrimage destination. And these are three top reasons to visit the Karisoolnthamangalam Chakrathalwar Venkatachalapathy temple.

Popular festivals:



1) Garudai Sevai festivals, especially the ones held on Saturdays and in the Puratassi month

2) Margazhi Vaikuntha Ekadasi Festival

Temple timings:



Morning Hours: 6 AM to 11 AM

Evening Hours: 4 PM to 5:30 PM

How to reach there:



If you are traveling from Tirunelveli direction, head on the Tirunelveli – Ambasamudram road till Pattamadai. At Pattamadai main circle, turn right and head towards Karissolnthamangalam on single lane village roads flanked by paddy fields and banana plantations.

Where to stay:



If you are looking for a simple hotel to stay, Cheranmahadevi, Kallidaikurichi and Ambasamudram would offer you a few options.

If you wish to stay in a traditional homestay inside the Brahmin agraharams, Kallidaikurichi (about 20 kms away) would be your nearest option.

If you wish for luxurious accommodation or a place with more rooms and catering to a wide range of budgets, Tirunelveli, about 20 kms away, would be your best bet.

Where to eat:



If you want basic tiffin items, tea/coffee and snacks, you can find them at Pattamadai, Cheranmahadevi and Melapalayam. For a proper sit down kind of vegetarian meals, the nearest option would be Hotel Annapoorna at Melapalayam.

For a much wider variety with different kinds of restaurants catering to different budgets and palettes, the city of Tirunelveli would be your best bet.

Other nearby tourist attractions:



1) Athalanallur Gajendra Varadharaja Temple: The location of the gajendra moksham legend.

2) Thiruppudaimarudur Naramboonathar Temple: 6th century Shiva temple located on the banks of the Thamirabharani river

3) Harikesavanallur Ariyanatha Swamy Temple: A powerful Shiva temple that is a Guru Sthalam, a Kubera Sthalam and a Maandi Sthalam

4) Cheranmahadevi Ammainathar Swamy Temple: A Nava Kailayam temple dedicated to the moon god that is surrounded by lush paddy fields and the Thamirabharani river

5) Pattamadai Pai: GI tagged beautiful handwoven mats from a tiny Tamil Nadu village

6) Manjolai: The unknown hill station gem of India

7) Sivasailam Temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats

8) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East monsoon in India

9) Nalumukku: The wettest place of India during the North East monsoon

10) Kudrevetty: The gorgeous windy station of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve



11) Manimuthar Falls: The herbal waterfall inside a tiger reserve

12) Agastyar Falls: A gorgeous waterfall on the Thamirabharani river

13) Oothu: The quaint little hill station of Tamil Nadu

14) Kakkachi: The highest point inside Kalakad Mundanthurai tiger reserve

15) Scenic Iron Bridge of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve: Pristine nature overloaded

16) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep South

17) Cycling through the backyards of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

18) Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy Temple: Magnificent 10th century temple with an ashtanga vimana

19) 10th Century Brahmadesam Kailasanathar Temple: Lesser known architectural marvel of South India

20) 1000 year old Papanasanathar Temple:Where you can wash all your sins away



21) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the saaral season

22) Iruttu Kadai Halwa: Icon of Tirunelveli

23) Nellaiappar Temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder

24) 10th Century Valiswara Temple at Thiruvaliswaram: Hidden Chola gem in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu

25) Kallidaikurichi to Manimuthar Dam: A top scenic and rustic cycling route

26) Garudai Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi

27) Festival of Thiruvathirai from a traditional Tamil Nadu village



28) Festival of Karthigai Deepam from a traditional Tamil Nadu village

29) Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand cultural spectacle in rural Tamil Nadu

30) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature

31) Kallidaikurichi’s Sannadhi Street: Prettiest hotspot for Karthigai Deepam Festival Rural Bonanza

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Pattamadai Pai: GI Tagged Beautiful Handwoven Mats from a Tiny Tamil Nadu Village

This heritage item of India was once gifted to Queen Elizabeth II by the Government of Tamil Nadu. In 2013, it received the geographical indication (GI) tag. It is an art form that is centuries old and that is unique to this region. I am talking about the absolutely gorgeous pattu pai (silk mat) and the korai pai (grass mat) from the village of Pattamadai in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu state in India. It is fondly called as ‘Pattamadai Pai’ by the locals.



Made from korai grass found abundantly on the banks of the Thamarabharani river of this region, the Pattamadai Pai started when Syed Khalifa Meeran, a preacher who belonged to the Lebbai community, settled in Pattamadai many centuries ago. Today, this Pattamadai pai, is so famous that it is seen in almost all weddings and engagements that take place in this region. Either, the wedding rituals take place on these mats or they are gifted to the bride and the groom on the wedding day. I have such a pattu pai with the names of my parents from their wedding day 42 years ago and it still exists in pristine condition and it is an absolute joy to sleep on it.



The Lebbai community started this art form to provide themselves with a supplementary source of income. They involved everyone in the household. While the men did the outdoor work, the women were in charge of the weaving. Even today, it is the elderly women of this Muslim trading community who weave the high quality silk mats or pattu pai. Unfortunately, there are only a few weavers who are keeping the tradition of weaving high thread count mats alive. Today, a lot of weaving takes place through power looms and the ones that are made via handlooms are lower thread counts.



The journey of the Pattamadai Pai begins with the harvest of the karungadukorai grass from the banks of the Thamarabharani river in the months of September and October and February and March. This korai grass then goes through processes like drying, soaking, splitting and dyeing. The grass is then further dried under the sun and polished with a stone for a smooth finish. Both natural and chemical colours are used to dye the grass.



Once you soak the grass, you can actually split it into different threads. This is what allows the weave of the high quality silk mats. These mats are soft to the touch and can easily be folded and hence demand a premium. Unfortunately, this art form is limited to a few people, especially elderly women. Hence, not only are these mats really expensive, but they also take more than three months to weave the high quality 100 thread count mat.



I waited for close to a year for these 100 thread count custom silk mats, but unfortunately could never see the final output. That is the sorry state of affairs with our GI tagged heritage products. But, luckily, I received the 52 count intricate design custom silk mats within 6 months of placing the order. You just have to hope and pray that there are no unforeseen rains during that time else the weaving process is bound to take a few more weeks.



If you don’t mind for any custom mats with your name mentioned on it, then you can find a whole lot of ready made options and you might be able to strike a bargain too. Apparently, the demand is for mats with names and dates stitched onto it. People prefer these for weddings and events and hence they cost a premium both in terms of money and time.



If you like rich Indian heritage and culture and you like rural holidays, you will definitely fall in love with Pattamadai and its silk mats. Ideally, you should start off with the government weaving center, get to know how they procure the raw materials and prepare it for weaving, see the handloom and power loom weaving take place up close and then move on to the many shops in the village. The icing on the cake would be to take back home some GI tagged Pattamadai Pai gifts for yourself and your family and friends.



Typical price of products:

1) 100 thread count handwoven pattamadai silk mat (pattu pai) (standard size is 6 feet length and 2.5 feet width): ~ INR 8000 with extra for extra length and INR 300 per line of name

2) 52 thread count handwoven pattamadai silk mat (pattu pai) (standard size is 6 feet length and 3 feet width) with intricate designs: ~ INR 3300 with extra for extra length and INR 200 per line of name

3) 52 thread count handwoven pattamadai silk mat with simple designs: ~ INR 1800 with extra for extra length and INR 200 per line of name

4) Powerloom based simple pattamadai pai: INR 180 to INR 1500, depending on quality and design

5) Handwoven silk pooja mat: INR 750 per piece

6) Bags, purses, storage boxes and/or hand fans: INR 50 to 200 depending on product and design



Health benefits of Pattamadai Pai:

1) Unlike a modern day mattress or plastic mats, the korai grass of the pattamadai pai is believed to cool down the body and hence reduces all kinds of inflammation in the body. One can either keep the mat directly on the floor or on top of a bed for full benefits.

2) Since the pattamadai pai is made of natural fabrics, it is believed that one gets good sleep on it. It is considered to be very good for toddlers and young kids.



Where to buy authentic pattamadai pai?:

1) Raziya Mat Industries – Suleiman: +91 98433 86435. They have two different shops in Pattamadai. One is inside the village and the other is on the highway from Pattamadai to Tirunelveli.

2) Aspeer Mohammad - +91 94435 07392. This shop is right at the corner where the highway meets the village road.



Items that can be bought here:

1) Pattu pai or silk mats with or without names and dates engraved onto it.

2) Regular pattamadai pai for day to day rough use

3) Pooja mats and placemats

4) Hand bags and Purses

5) Baskets and storage boxes

6) Hand fans



Best season to visit:

Pattamadai’s best season has to be between the months of October through February. April through June happen to be the hottest months and are best avoided. However, if you wish to custom order any pattamadai mats, then do keep in mind that work on handwoven mats take place only during the dry season. The moisture in the air during the wet season makes the grass strands stick together and make weaving difficult and a painstaking process.



How to reach there:

The nearest railway station and bus station would be Tirunelveli, about 22 kms away.

The nearest airport would be Tuticorin, about 60 kms away.

Pattamadai is well connected by a good road network. Buses ply regularly between Tirunelveli and Pattamadai. One can also easily find taxis for hire at Tirunelveli. Hiring a taxi/cab is best if you wish for some comfort and plan to explore other tourist attractions in this region.



Where to stay:

If you prefer creature comforts, I would recommend trying the hotels at Tirunelveli – GRT Regency, Janakiram, Aryaas.

If you wish to stay in slightly cooler weather, you should try the resorts in and around Courtrallam.

If you wish to stay in pristine nature, I would recommend that you stay at the forest rest houses in Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve.

If you care for a true rustic experience, I would recommend that you stay at any of the homestays or guest houses in Kallidaikurichi village agraharam.



Where to eat:

One can easily find basic food to eat at Pattamadai, but if you want something more elaborate, head to the nearby city of Tirunelveli for lots of options. Hotel Janakiram and Hotel Aryaas are two popular options for snacks, breakfast, lunch and dinner.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the Saaral season

2) Iruttu Kadai Halwa: Icon of Tirunelveli

3) Nellaiappar temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder

4) Thamarabharani river delta: A motorcycle route full of rustic gorgeousness

5) Karaiyar dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep south

6) The hidden gem called Kalakad Mundanthurai tiger reserve

7) 1000 year old Papanasanathar temple: Where you can wash all your sins away

8) Courtrallam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu

9) Tiruchendur Murugan temple: Sea shore magic

10) Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy temple: Magnificent 10th century temple with an ashtanga vimana

11) 10th century Kailasanathar temple at Brahmadesam

12) 10th century Valiswara temple at Thiruvaleeswaram

13) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the north east monsoon in India

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