Two mornings back, I visited the 11th century Bhaktavatsala Perumal temple by the banks of the Thamirabharani river just outside of Cheranmahadevi in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu in India. Cheranmahadevi is just 15 kms away from my ancestral village of Kallidaikurichi and a relaxed 15 minute motorcycle ride brings you to this gorgeous village that is located on the banks of the Thamirabharani river. While the town of Cheranmahadevi is bustling with growth and development, it’s countryside is pristine and is overflowing with agricultural abundance owing to the fertile plains of the Thamirabharani river and perennial water supply from the river and its canals. This photo story brings to you these countryside scenes as I made my way from the town to the Bhaktavatsala Perumal temple by the river.
Above photo: The entire landscape wore shades of gold and green. In another couple of weeks, the paddy fields will get ready for harvest. The paddy simply shone golden in the morning sun.
Above photo: The perennial Thamirabharani river is the backbone of this entire region. And Cheranmahadevi is no different. From kingdoms to today’s villages, towns and cities live off its waters. People use its waters for bathing, agriculture, cattle and so much more. A lot of ancient temples can be found by the banks of the Thamirabharani river.
Above photo: Early mornings on these country roads are nothing but pure bliss. There is a cool breeze that is blowing and the sun has just started to shine on the rich paddy and banana haven. And locals are going about their local chores of cattle herding, agriculture or washing.
Above photo: The Cheranmahadevi countryside is so pretty that many South Indian movies have been shot at its various scenic locations, including this one. The road here is flanked on both sides by golden paddy fields and at the end of the road lies the 11th century Bhaktavatsala Perumal temple and the Thamirabharani river.
Above photo: Time literally stands still here. As I made my way to the Bhaktavatsala Perumal temple, these goats and sheep blocked my way and I happily let them do it. The beauty of village life is this slow pace of life and the best way to destress is live this slow pace when you get the opportunity.
Above photo: Life is simple here. People work hard, earn less, but are very contented. You can always see them with a smile on their faces and eager to strike a conversation with you or answer your questions about them or the region.
Karthigai Deepam or Karthik Purnima, the festival of lights, is almost non-existent in urban India, but thankfully it is alive and kicking in rural India, especially in rural Tamil Nadu. The agraharams of Kallidiakurichi are a fabulous place to experience this rich festival of India. The prettiest hotspot in Kallidaikurichi for this festival has to be the Sannadhi street where right in front of the ancient Adi Varaha Perumal temple and in between two rows of pretty Brahmin agraharam homes, all the vibrant action takes place.
As the lane is narrow, the sheer number of lamps lit by people in front of their homes gives this entire street a divine aura for close to two hours in the evening.
The action begins an hour before sunset on the festival days. Maa Kolam (or rangoli made from rice batter) are drawn onto the street in front of their respective homes. Each home comes up with their unique traditional design. Some kolams can be small, while others can be quite big. The size of the kolam depends on the number of lamps that you intend to place over it. Then comes the shining brass and silver lamps that are placed upon pedestals on top of the kolam. The married ladies or the young girls of the house anoint these lamps with sandalwood and vermilion, decorate them with flowers and then light them up.
Each person of the household and the street are dressed in traditional clothes. While some of them burst crackers (especially flowers pots, sky shots, chakri or rockets), others resort to sitting in front of their homes (in their home’s thinnai), guarding their expensive lamps and watching the action unfold in the other houses. The true magnificence unfolds as darkness sets in and the light from the lamps take effect. As with most Indian festivals, there is happy vibe amongst the locals and smiling faces can be seen and happy conversations can be heard almost everywhere on the Sannadhi street.
As the street is quite narrow in width and small in length, you can walk its length and width multiple times and slowly soak in the magic of this festival through the rich culture, the beautiful lamps and the intricate kolam designs. In between, you can strike conversations with the locals or simply smile at them and congratulate them on their gorgeous lamps and kolams. And finally after your Sannadhi street sojourn is complete, you can go to the Adi Varaha Perumal temple and offer your respects to the lord. A perfect end to a colourful, vibrant and magnificent festival.
Timings to experience this festival:
One hour before sunset to one hour after sunset.
The festival is celebrated usually on two days. The day before Karthik Purnima and the day of Karthik Purnima.
How to reach there:
The nearest domestic airport would be Tuticorin airport, about 75 kms away. It has daily flights from Chennai and Bangalore. The nearest international airports would be Thiruvananthapuram international airport (about 150 kms away) and Madurai international airport (about 190 kms away).
The nearest railway station with excellent pan India connectivity is Tirunelveli Junction, about 35 kms away. Kallidaikurichi has a railway station, but long distances options are limited. However, daily passenger trains and express trains connect Kallidaikurichi with Shencottai, Tirunelveli, Kerala and Erode.
The nearest bus station is Kallidaikurichi, though superior connectivity would be found at Tirunelveli.
If you are traveling by road on your own, take the 4 lane Bangalore – Kanyakumari highway till Tirunelveli. Enter Tirunelveli city for a bit and at Melapalayam signal, turn right towards Kallidaikurichi and Ambasamudram via Pattamadai, Cheranmahadevi, Karukurichi and Veeravanallur.
Where to stay:
If simple budget hotels are your thing, you can opt for Bhaskar Lodge or JRV Residences at Kallidaikurichi or Hotel Ambai Grand at Ambasamudram.
If you wish to stay inside the agraharam, opt for homestays like Kallidai Home Stay and other traditional homes that have been turned into guest houses.
If you want much better luxury, head to Tirunelveli city, about 35 kms away.
Where to eat:
The ideal option is to opt for meals at the place where you are staying at. If that is not an option, there are small restaurants like Varaha Mess and Kannan hotel that offer simple and delicious snack items like dosa, idli, appam, puri, etc. For proper sit down meals, head to Hotel Ramanas at Ambasamudram, 3 kms away. They also have an air-conditioned branch at Agastiyarpatti.
For a much wider range, head to Tirunelveli city, about 35 kms away. Janakiram, Aryas and Marudham serve excellent vegetarian fare, while the traditional mess hotels and the suite of restaurants in Reddiarpetti serve excellent non vegetarian cuisine.
Other traditional festivals to experience at Kallidaikurichi:
1) Thamirabharani river bank for bathing and photography (both Kallidaikurichi and Ambasamudram banks are scenic places that are also popular locations for movie shoots)
2) Old Thamirabharani bridge for early morning and late evening walks and for photography
3) Adi Varaha Perumal temple, the appalam shops of Sannadhi street and the cultural vibes of Sannadhi street – the epicenter of Kallidaikurichi
4) The posh agraharam houses of Veerapuram street, Mudalipuram street and Ekambaram street – perfect for a walking tour
5) Chidambareswarar Sivagami Ambal temple, the kannadigan irrigation canal (locally called as vaykaal) and the surrounding paddy fields
6) The large bungalows near the railway station – popular movie shoot locations
7) Tilak Vidyalaya school –that has been imparting education since the late 1800s
24) Thiruppudaumarudur Naramboonathar Temple: 6th century Shiva temple located on the banks of the Thamirabharani river
25) Harikesavanallur Ariyanatha Swamy Temple: A powerful Shiva temple that is a Guru Sthalam, a Kubera Sthalam and a Maandi Sthalam
26) Cheranmahadevi Ammainathar Swamy Temple: A Nava Kailayam temple dedicated to the moon god that is surrounded by lush paddy fields and the Thamirabharani river
