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Monday, March 03, 2014

The Tribes of Dandeli: A Photo Essay

Dandeli, a small town in the Western Ghats of NW Karnataka is very popular for its tryst with the river Kali and for its adventure sports. In the second place, comes its wildlife, nature and birding. But, what a lot of people do not know is that Dandeli houses many tribes within and around the main town. On my last visit to Dandeli, I got the opportunity to meet these various people and interview them. These sessions were very interesting and helped me understand these unique cultures much better. The 4 tribes I met during this visit were the Lambani, Medar, Siddi and Gowli. While I have already written stories about the Lambani and the Medar, I am yet to write about the Siddi and the Gowli. While you wait for all the stories, I thought I should entertain you with a photo essay on the people of these four tribes.

Siddi Tribe – The African Tribe of India

This tribe came to India as slaves during the Portuguese rule (Goa and Diu) and today exist as farm laborers, construction workers and small businessmen. They live in villages outside Dandeli.
Siddi Tribal Kids pose
Siddi kids pose for the lens

Members of the Siddi tribe from near DandeliA group of families from a Siddi tribal village

A kid from the Siddi village near DandeliA Siddi Kid with his tire toy

Lambani Tribe – The Nomadic Gypsies of Rajasthan Originally from Rajasthan, these nomadic gypsies have completely embraced today’s way of living, but still follow their traditions and culture. When they came to Dandeli, they used to do odd jobs, collect firewood from the forest and make country liquor.
Colourful look of a traditional Lambani tribal womanA traditionally decked up Lambani woman

An Elderly Woman from the nomadic Lambani Tribe
An elderly Lambani woman who hardly smiled

Gowli Tribe – The Cattle Herders of South India
They are cattle herders and have more cows, buffalos and goats in their village than people. Today, most of them have taken to work in the city, but the traditional ones still sell milk, curd (yoghurt), ghee (clarified butter) and paneer (cottage cheese) for a living.

A Gowli man out on the streets of Dandeli to sell his milk

Elderly Gowli Tribe Woman near Dandeli, Karnataka
An elderly Gowli woman at a Gowli village outside of Dandeli

Elderly Gentleman from Dandeli's Gowli TribeElderly Gentleman from Dandeli’s Gowli Tribe

Medar Tribe – The Bamboo Community of West India
This tribe makes its living from making crafts and products out of bamboo. In fact, their biggest revenue generator is funeral arrangements wherein a Medar family gets the right to make the entire funeral crafts and pyre using bamboo.
Medar Community - the Bamboo craftsmen of DandeliA Medar family from Dandeli

Bamboo craftsman from the Medar community of DandeliA Medar man makes his living from making bamboo crafts
Courtesy: I organized this trip through www.dandeli.com.

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Monday, April 29, 2013

Long Necked Karen Tribal Women of Burma

It is always very fascinating to see people follow their age-old traditions and practices that you would never see in the cities. Myanmar is a land of many tribes and hence it would not be surprising to see many of these ancient habits and traditions. Such a tribe are the Long Necked Karens, who are known for their giraffe necks.

Long Necked Karen Women of Inle Lake, Burma
These tribal women live in the Shan state of Myanmar and have also sought refugee in Thailand to seek better employment opportunities. These women wear heavy brass rings that weigh as much as 2 kilograms in their neck right from a very young age. It is believed that the long necks make their women look beautiful. Today, a lot of these tribal women have stopped this practice for their children, but still follow for themselves to make some money from tourism as tourists are happy to pay to see these giraffe necked women.

The heavy bronze rings that give these women their long necks
These women spend their time weaving scarves, longyis and other clothes and design wooden crafts. I saw them living peacefully in one of the villages on Inle Lake in the Shan State of Myanmar.

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Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Maasai People in Portraits

The Maasai people are a Nilothic race in East Africa who primarily occupy the area around the Maasai Mara Game Reserve, which they call it their home. The Maasai are cattle-herders who are also known as fearsome warriors.

Traditional Maasai Attire
I got to meet the Maasai people in person at their manyattas (villages) on the fringes of the Maasai Mara Game Reserve in Kenya. Below are some portraits that I took during this meet-up.

Maasai woman carrying firewood from the forest to the village

Decked up Maasai warriors

Maasai women

Traditional Maasai dance called Adumu

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Thursday, September 06, 2012

Understanding the Samburu Tribe of North Kenya

The Samburu tribe is one of the more dominating tribes of north-central Kenya. The Samburu developed from one of the later Nilotic migrations from the Sudan, as part of their plains Nilotic movement. They are related to the Maasai, share a few traditions, but are overall pretty distinct from each other. I got a chance to meet them in their society, talk to them, interact with them and understand their culture when I was at the Samburu National Reserve in North Kenya.

Exquisite bead work on this Samburu woman
The Samburu are semi-nomadic pastoralists who herd mainly cattle, but also keep sheep, goats and camels. They live north of the equator and live in very diverse and beautiful landscapes that spans high altitude forests, open plains, semi-arid grass and bush land to complete desert.

Samburu Elders huddle together under a tree to play a game
The elders occupy a very important place in the Samburu society and all the power rests with them. They have a polygamous system where the elders decide who can marry and have how many wives. This kind of control helps keep trouble at rest or at least that is the belief.

This game played with seeds and compartments is only played by the elderly men of the Samburu tribe
In the Samburu society, the men take care of security and cattle-herding, while the women take care of things like building houses, collecting firewood and food from forest, cooking food, taking care of young and in doing craftsmanship. In their own terms, a Samburu woman is much more hard-working than a Samburu man.

The Samburu Warriors strike a pose
Since the Samburus’ practice polygynous marriage, their settlements or manyattas mirror this setup. Each manyatta might have 4 or 5 families and within each family, there might be multiple wives who live in their own house, which they build on their own using sticks, mud, dung and plastic (for waterproofing).

The colourfully decked Samburu tribals
The entire manyatta is surrounded by a acacia thorn bush fence to prevent the people and their cattle from predators. The cattle are again surrounded by a second layer of thorn fence in the center of each manyatta. One or two Samburu men would keep watch every night and protect the entire village.

Wedding dance enacted by the Samburu men and women
Traditionally, the Samburu people have completely survived off the products of their herds. However, decline in cattle numbers, less rains and increased tourism has meant the  Samburu people have gotten more into the tourism industry working with various wildlife resorts, the forest department and related companies. Some of them have also gone out to large cities such as Nairobi and Mombasa to find other sources of employment.

Beautiful Samburu Women: All you need to do is offer the chief of the tribe 2 cows and you can get any of them as your bride :-)
The Samburu people speak the Samburu language, which is a Nilo-Saharan language. Their language is more or less similar to Maa (the language that the Maasai speak). The Samburu tongue is also related to Turkana and Karamojong and more distantly to Pokot and the Kalenjin languages.

Samburu men make a fire by rubbing two types of stick over dried donkey dung
Today, a lot of them speak Swahili and English to make utmost use of the opportunities to make money. Slowly, but steadily, schools are being developed for a cluster of villages to ensure that the Samburu kids get quality education in both Swahili and English.

Both Samburu Men and Women adorn rich colour
The standard food of the Samburu is milk from their cattle, blood taken from their cattle without killing them and wild foods. During festivals and certain times of celebration, they kill some of their cattle and eat their meat. Today, they consume some agricultural products like maize too. Tea with milk and sugar is their staple diet.

A sober looking Samburu man
The Samburu clothing is something that I found real interesting. Both men and women wear extremely bright colours. This may be because they want to add some life to the otherwise barren landscape or to make their dark skin glow. They adorn themselves with necklaces, bracelets and anklets.

A rich dash of colour on all the Samburu women
The warrior men cover their head in red ochre. The elders (both men and women) were clean shaven. The women wear numerous necklaces and bracelets and these ornaments are made from colorful beads (used to be colorful seeds a long time back). It is said that the more beads or necklaces are there on a women, the more beautiful she is considered. Another point on the same line of thought is that, women were more necklaces as they get richer. Therefore, the number of beads or necklaces indicate status in society, richness level and beauty.
 
A Portrait of a Samburu Man
During my visits, most of the men wore red cloths either around their waist or over their shoulder. Women, on the other hand wore floral and pastel designs. Though, with increased tourism and westernization, the Samburu people are also slowly taking to western attire.

Samburu Women welcome the tourists into their village
The Samburu love to sing and dance, but traditionally use no instruments. They have dances for various occasions of life. The men dance jumping and high jumping from a standing position is a great sport. Most dances involve the men and the women dancing in their separate circles with particular moves for each sex, but coordinating the movements of the two groups. A lot of their dances include elaborate movements of their
chest.

A Beadwork Samburu Model
If you do get to visit them, you will come across this statement: Do you wish to marry one of our Samburu girls? All you have to do is give the chief of the village 2 cows. That is how weddings happen in the Samburu culture.

Inquisitive Samburu looks
Girls get married pretty early. Sometimes before they turn 18. Both boys and girls go through an initiation into adulthood, which involves training in adult responsibilities and circumcision for boys and clitoridectomy for girls. Ouch!! 

Women work much harder than the men in the Samburu community
The Samburu people are very homely and kind and it hurts me to see them struggle. So if you do visit them, be your generous self. Any donation, however small will help this community give good education and food to its kids while keeping its traditions intact.

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Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Upcoming Travel: Backpacking to North East India – Meghalaya, Assam and Arunachal Pradesh

I have been travelling quite a bit since the monsoons began in June. In fact, such has been the pace of my travels that I am quite behind in sharing my travel experiences here on ‘BE ON THE ROAD’. And along with these travels, I have been lucky to get some regular travel writing assignments, which again is keeping me occupied.

I am yet to start my Agumbe journals and complete my Sikkim travel diaries and all this while I am planning a three week trip (Nov 14 to Dec 5) to India’s beautiful North East states. I hope to complete all the pending journals before I pack to catch my flight this Sunday.

In case you are interested in knowing my upcoming travel itinerary, I have themed these three weeks primarily on backpacking, wildlife and tribes in that order. In Meghalaya - Shillong, Cherrapunji and East Khasi Hills District. In Arunachal Pradesh – Eagle Nest Wildlife Sanctuary, Dirang and Tawang. In Assam – Nameri National Park, Kaziranga National Park and Majuli Island.

During this trip, I intend to carry my laptop and my connectivity gear and hence will be able to provide a live update, wherever possible.

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