Sanliurfa: The Ancient Gem in South Eastern Turkey

This city has recorded history from the 4th century BCE, but it may date back at least to 9000 BCE. About 12 kms from it, is the famous Neolithic site of Gobekli Tepe, the world’s oldest known temple that was founded in the 10th millenium BCE. It is located near to the ancient Mesopotamian settlements of Harran and Nevali Cori. It is nicknamed the ‘City of Prophets’, owing to its association with Jewism, Christianity and Islam and because of the belief that it was the hometown of Abraham. I am talking about Sanliurfa, the historical city, located in South Eastern Turkey and not too far away from the Syrian border.



Known in ancient times as Edessa, the city of Sanliurfa is made up of a beautiful mix of Turks, Kurds and Arabs. Most tourists to Turkey hardly make their way down to this south eastern part of the country. May be, they are worried about border conflicts or may be it is just too far away for them. Either ways, they are missing on a beautiful Middle Eastern city with a gorgeous flavour of culture and architecture. The locals are warm, super friendly and eager to strike a conversation with you.

     
    
History, culture and local food are on the top of must-experience attractions in Sanliurfa. A Sanliurfa experience starts with a visit to the Cave of Abraham that is home to many mosques and Balikligol (a holy fish pond). It is here that you will see the Mevlid-i-Halil mosque, built next to the site where prophet Abraham is believed to have been born. And a short walk away is the 9th century Urfa castle from where you can catch a bird’s eye view of Urfa city. As you meander in different directions from the Cave of Abraham, you will pass through colourful atmospheric bazaars, Turkish baths, traditional Urfa houses, Rizvaniye mosque, Ayn Zeliha, the great mosque of Urfa, Sanliurfa museum, Golbasi garden, Urfa Armenian Protestant church, the Syriac orthodox church of St Peter and St Paul and the ruins of the ancient city walls.
   
     
    
And when you head a little but out of the city, you have the 11,500 year old temple at Gobekli Tepe, the temple of Nevali Cori (Neolithic settlement dating back to 8000 BCE), the Euphrates river, the fortress of Rumkale near the Euphrates river and Attaturk dam. If you are really into ancient history, I am pretty sure that you will unearth many other hidden gems by talking to locals or sticking with people with interest in archaeology.
   
     
    
Sanliurfa is that beautiful mix of offbeat culture, rich ancient history, authentic Middle Eastern experience and friendly locals. It takes a while to reach this part of the country and having experienced it first hand, I cannot stop recommending it to you. If you like history, lazy city walks, chatting with locals, exotic locale and vibrant markets, this place is for you!    
   

 
Best season to visit:    
    
Summers are very hot at Sanliurfa and are best avoided. The best season to visit would be the cooler months between October and February. Days can be warm even during this time, so it will be best to wear a headscarf, hat, sunscreen and sunglasses.   
   


How to reach there:

You can either fly into Sanliurfa or get in by road. Sanliurfa has daily flights from Istanbul and Ankara, but the number of flights are low. If you don’t have a lot of time at hand, you should fly. If you have time on your hand, I would recommend traveling via Mardin or via Ankara so that you can visit some of the lesser visited destinations of Turkey.   
   


Where to stay:

There are many village homestays, traditional guest houses and hotels to choose from. The Yuvacali village home stays are best if you wish to experience rustic life along with rich Kurdish hospitality.

Where to eat:

You can eat at your place of stay or at one of the many restaurants in the local bazaar. The iconic dishes to try out are cig kofte or raw kebabs, pistachio Kunefe desserts, Lahmajun (Turkish Pizza) and Liver kebabs. Zahter Kahvalti is a great place to eat some traditional local food.

When I was there at Sanliurfa, I stayed at the Aslan guest house, a traditional looking house that welcomes backpackers and that is located right in the heart of the city and close to all the main places.

There is also a Hilton in town if you wish to splurge.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Gobekli Tepe: The oldest temple in the world

2) Mardin: Gateway to Mesopotamia

3) Gaziantep: The city that is famous for the iconic baklava

4) Harran: A major ancient city in upper Mesopotamia

5) Karacadag: See rural life here that hasn’t changed much since biblical times. You can still see nomads in their yurts and this is where wheat first originated about 8,800 BCE

6) Lycian way: A 550 km long scenic trek that is home to sensational beaches, great architectural ruins, rich Greek history and stunning views

7) Kayakoy: The Ghost town of Turkey

8) Aphrodisias: Offbeat Greek culture trail in Turkey

9) Cappadocia: One of the most magical places in the world

10) Hierapolis: The ancient Greek spa city

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Mardin: Gateway to Mesopotamia

This historical city located in south eastern Turkey is the gateway to Mesopotamia. It lies at the center of the homeland of the Syriacs, an ancient race who trace their origin to the Akkadian empire, established in Mesopotamia around 2200 BCE. It also served as the capital of the Turkic Artuqid dynasty between the 12th and the 15th centuries. I am talking about the offbeat cultural gem of Mardin that lies on the southern slopes of a 3,450 feet tall highland and that overlooks extensive limestone plateaus.



A lot of you might not have heard of Mardin as it was unofficially closed for tourism throughout the 1990s due to long lasting Turkey-PKK conflict in the surrounding countryside. Things are still iffy at the borders, but Mardin is welcoming tourists these days. It is the kind of place that rewards fearless travelers with a keen sense of discovery. And this holds especially true for the Mardin old town that is officially under the protection of UNESCO. This old town is known for its fascinating architecture with forts, churches, mosques and narrow alleyways all decorated in a wide variety of stonework. Add to this its diversity in people who form a beautiful mix of Turks, Kuds, Arabs and Syriacs. And you have one charming setup.



Located near the Tigris river, a walk through Mardin’s old town gives you great views of the Mesopotamian plains in the yonder. During its glorious past, Mardin, which used to grow wheat, barley and sesame, would also act a trade hub between today’s Turkey, Iraq, Syria and Kurdistan. You can imagine all of its rich past as you walk the alleys of the old city while soaking in the local atmosphere and architecture. The ideal place to start would be the main bazaar, where you can meet the ever smiling and hospitable people selling everything from carpets, tobacco, vegetables, fruits, clothes, meta work, day to day items and more.



From the main bazaar, you could head to the citadel, from where you can catch the majestic vistas of the town and the flat plains below. You can’t enter the citadel premises as it is inside a military zone, but you can walk all the way up to the barbed wire to catch the fascinating views of the Mesopotamian plains. On the way down from the citadel, you could drop by Zinciriye Medresesi, an Islamic school built by the Artuqids in the 14th century. This madrasah is known for its beautiful wall and ceiling decorations.



The other places to see in Mardin are Kirklar Kilisesi (Church of the Forties), a Syriac orthodox church dating back to the 10th century, the intricately decorated Abdul Latif mosque, Mardin museum, the 5th century Deyruz Zafran monastery (The Monastery of St Ananias) and the 6th century Mor Behnam church.



In between all your explorations, you can try some of Mardin’s specialties, which is getting a good shave at a local barber, taking a bath at a local hamam and having conversations with locals over some delicious Turkish and Kurdish food.



As Mardin is not on the main tourist map, you will not find a lot of tourists, which could also be a blessing in disguise as you might have the entire city to yourself . This means that locals will have more time to engage in conversations with you. And knowing them, they will invite you into their homes for tea or food. This is a great way to learn more about the local culture while sharing some stories from your country too.



If you are a culture buff who like historical cities, then you will definitely find the stone architecture, bustling bazaars, narrow alleyways and Mesopotamian plain views to be very appealing. I recommend this hidden Turkish gem to all intrepid travelers. This south eastern part of Turkey is so very different from the rest of the country and is a certain treat to the senses.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport is Mardin airport, which is well connected to Istanbul by Turkish and Pegasus airlines. The airport is located about 30 minutes from the old town.

The nearest railway station is Gaziantep, located about 338 kms or 4 hours away.

The nearest bus station is Mardin. Mardin is well connected by road with the rest of the country. Regular buses ply between Mardin and Gaziantep/Sanliurfa.



Best season to visit:

Mardin experiences hot summers with temperatures staying in the high 40s degree Celsius. The best season to visit would be October through February. However, this also happens to be the rainy season. Spring and Autumn months also make for a great time to visit. If heat is not a problem, then you can visit all year round.





Where to stay:

There are quite a few hotels located in Mardin old town that cater to a wide range of budgets. Try to find a place close to the main bazaar so that you are close to all the action.



Where to eat:

Most hotels serve food too, but if you wish for some authentic local dining experience, then, you should head close to the main Mardin bazaar. The top restaurants would be Seyr-i Merdin and Damak Sofrasi. And if you have a sweet tooth, then head to Sadik Kunefe.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Sanliurfa – one of the top 10 experiences in Turkey

2) Gaziantep – the home of the baklava

3) Midyat – another offbeat gem known for its stonework architecture

4) Beyazsu – known for its waterfalls and greenery

5) Deyrulzafaran monastery – a 5th century monastery that was the seat of patriarchate of all Syrian orthodoxy until 1932.

6) Savur – a place where time stands still and that is known for its gorgeous stone houses

7) Killit – village known for its abandoned stone houses

8) Dara – an ancient Roman city

9) Tur Abdin monasteries – home to several Syriac – Orthodox (Assyrian) churches>

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Hierapolis: The Ancient Greek Spa City

Turkey is a holiday destination with amazing experiences. It’s unique location on the cusp of Europe, Asia and the Middle East makes it a melting pot of cultures, home to an amazing array of landscapes and a land of delicious food. One such gem in Turkey is the ruins of the ancient Greek city called Hierapolis. Founded in early 2nd century BCE, Hierapolis is a UNESCO world heritage site that in its hey days used to exist as a spectacular spa destination.

This ancient Greek spa city, located on natural hot springs in southwestern Anatolia, was home to spectacular baths, a massive amphitheatre, temples, grand gateways, markets, sacrophagi and much more. Today, its ruins give us a glimpse into its rich past.



It all started when the Phrygians built a temple in the first half of the 7th century BCE, which was used by the people of the nearby villages and towns. Then, in the 2nd century BCE, Hierapolis was founded as a thermal spa. It started as a healing centre, before people started to migrate here to spend their last days in relaxation and peace. With time, Hierapolis or the holy city expanded from being a health centre into a city with numerous temples. In 133 BCE, Hierapolis became the part of the Roman province of Asia after the death of King Attalus III. Then onwards a couple of earthquakes damaged the city and it was entirely rebuilt in the Roman style with imperial financial support. By now, Christianity had made its presence felt in this city.

Then came the golden era of the city starting 129 ACE when the theatre was built for a visit by the emperor Hadrian. And when the Roman Emperor Caracalla visited in 215 ACE and bestowed upon it the title of neocorus, Hierapolis entered the peak phase of this golden era. Roman baths, gymnasium, temples, fountains and markets were built. Hierapolis became one of the more prominent Roman cities in the field of art, philosophy and trade. The citizens started getting richer and the city thrived. All was well till the early part of the 7th century when the town was attacked by Persian armies and then by an earthquake. Thus began the decline of this once great spa city.



As you walk through the ruins of this ancient city, you cannot stop admiring its massive size, be its baths, amphitheatre, temples or just its building columns. Not only are the structures of Hierapolis big, but they were tastefully built with a lot of utility functions. All the remaining stones and ruins tell you a story and each vantage point gives you a majestic view of the landscape that is made up of rocks, stones and white travertines.

You can either take a taxi to Hierapolis, explore the city by foot, enjoy a dip in the thermal waters and walk your way down to the town of Pamukkale through the travertines and waterfalls or you can walk your way up from Pamukkale through the different travertines, exploring every bit of it in the cooler morning weather, then exploring the ancient Greek city of Hierapolis and then walking all the way back to Pamaukkale through a different route in the travertines. Either ways, you are bound to enjoy the ruins of Hierapolis and the travertines of Pamukkale. Throw in a paragliding adventure, a relaxed soak in the hot water springs and a deliciously cooked local meal and you have a dream Hierapolis and Pamukkale holiday experience.



As I had mentioned earlier, Turkey is a holiday destination with many amazing experiences. All you have to do is book your tickets and Turkish visa and you are all set to have a dream vacation that includes the ancient Greek spa city of Hierapolis and many other magical destinations.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport, train station and bus station would be Denizli. Mini buses or dolmus (share taxi) will take you from Denizli to Pamukkale in about 20 minutes.

The well connected and also the cheapest option to reach Denizli would be by bus.

Best season to visit:

Summers tend to be very hot at Pamukkale and Hierapolis. Hence, they can be best avoided. The rest of the year would be ideal to visit Hierapolis and Pamukkale.

Winters can be a bit challenging as you will have to walk barefoot through the freezing waters of the travertines.

Things to keep in mind:

1) Do carry with you a pair of sunglasses to protect your eyes against the heavy reflections coming from the chalky cascades

2) Do carry with you a cap/hat, sunblock, good pair of boots, a bottle of water to protect yourself from the elements

Admission fee:

The entrance fee is 80 Turkish Lira. This includes both Pamukkale travertines and the Roman ruins of Hierapolis



Where to stay:

Pamukkale would be the best place to stay as it offers close proximity to the travertines and to Hierapolis. There are many family run pensions near the travertines for those looking for something more upmarket, while the town has hotels and hostels catering to a wide range of budgets.

Where to eat:

You could either eat at your place of stay in Pamukkale or you could try the delicious street food in the city.

There are also a few restaurants near Hierapolis, where you could get some basic food.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Pamukkale: A UNESCO world heritage site known for its travertines with mineral rich thermal waters&

2) Cappadocia: One of the most magical places in the world

3) Ephesus: An ancient Greek city founded in the early 10th century BC on the west coast of Turkey

4) Aphrodisias: Offbeat Greek culture trail in Turkey

5) Kayakoy: The ghost town of Turkey
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6) Lycian way: A historic trail with sensational beaches, architectural ruins, rich Greek history and stunning views

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Cappadocia: One of the most magical places in the world

The earliest record of its name dates from the late 6th century BC. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and a place of unique historical and cultural heritage. It’s stories even feature in many Christian books and sources. It is Turkey’s most popular and most visited tourist destination. It has been featured in many Hollywood, European and Middle Eastern movies. I am talking about the mesmerizing landscape of Cappadocia in Central Turkey.



Millions of years ago, this part of Turkey used to be an active volcanic region. And it were the eruptions from these volcanoes that set the base for the rocks of Cappadocia. Wind, rain, snow and other aspects of mother nature then moulded these rocks into spectacular pillars and minarets. People then carved out churches, cave houses, monasteries and cities from this soft volcanic rock.



It is this heady combination of nature and man made creation that give Cappadocia its unique flavour. The beautiful marriage of fairy chimneys, rock-cut temples, cave houses, multi-levelled underground cities, monasteries, churches, a rich heritage and an amazing weather beaten rocky landscape makes Cappadocia one of the most magical places in the world. It is a place that would easily be a part of any travel bucket-list and one that would certainly be a highlight of a Turkish holiday itinerary. Cappadocia becomes even more magical during the winter months when the blanket of snow on these fairy chimneys and minarets gives this heritage site an out of the world look and feel. To see this surreal winter world up close, do look up JustFly, find the best deal on flights to Turkey and plan your dream winter holiday to Turkey’s Cappadocia.



Whether you experience it from above (in a hot air balloon), experience it from below (through its underground cities) or soak its charms from the ground level (through hikes, walks, treks, biking or quad biking trips), Cappadocia is bound to leave you speechless. Such is the beauty and charm of one of the most unique natural wonders in the world.



It is the kind of place that appeals to people of all ages and interests. You could be a nature lover, a culture enthusiast, an adventure junkie, a honeymooning couple or a budget backpacker, Cappadocia’s beauty is bound to keep you captivated and enthralled.



A simple walk through its heritage circuit, a hot air balloon ride at sunrise, a quad biking session through its many valley and mountains, a trek to its deepest corners, a trip to its many subterranean cities, a stay in its iconic cave houses or even a class of Turkish cooking, there are enough and more activities to keep everyone interested and involved on your Cappadocia holiday.



While most people just visit the UNESCO World heritage site, the underground cities, take a few iconic photographs and then leave, I think one has to let Cappadocia grow on you. Each valley, pillar, cave and mountain have stories to tell you. After all these rocks of Cappadocia have seen everything from the riches of Persia, the peaceful kingdom under Alexander the Great, the Lydian, Roman and Byzantine kingdoms, the time of slavery, the vast defence networks in their underground cities, the rise of the early Christian philosophy to modern day conquests by Muslim invaders.



Once these rocks start talking to you, you get to experience one of mother nature’s best creations along with a rich legacy left behind by 8000 plus years of kings, emperors, warriors, invaders, architects and churches.



While Goreme’s open air museum, Zelve open air museum, Rose valley, Pigeon valley, Monk’s valley, Derinkuyu underground city, Uchisar castle and love valley are some of the main highlights, the entire region of Cappadocia is full of some magical fairy chimneys and amazing stories. While many have been discovered, there are archaeologists who are discovering more remnants of this fantastic ancient civilization.



So, whatever your interest might be, you would have realized by now that Cappadocia with its many charms is one of the most magical places in the world and is a must-have in your international travel bucket-list. I certainly love this gorgeous place and would certainly return to it in a heart beat. What about you? Have you been there as yet? What do you think of it? Do you wish to visit it soon? Do let me know your thoughts in the comments below.



Which is the best season to visit Cappadocia:

Cappadocia looks like a dreamland in winter due to all the snow. This would be a great time to go for photography and for stunning sights. Spring would also be a great season to visit Cappadocia. Late summer months of July and August are best avoided as temperatures can reach as high as 40 degree Celsius and most places of stay do not have air-conditioning. August to December is also a good time, though it can rain from time to time.



How long should you plan to stay in Cappadocia:

Even though you can see most of Cappadocia in 2 days, I would recommend you staying here for at least 4 days. That way, you can attempt to experience multiple activities here, like hot air balloon rides, quad biking, trekking, underground cities, historical walks, cooking classes, etc.



The highlights of a visit to Cappadocia:

1) Hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia – Personally, I am not a big fan, but since everyone seems to enjoy it, I am mentioning it here.

2) Quad biking through the different valleys and mountains in Cappadocia. This allows you to experience the lay of the land from extremely close quarters.

3) Ancient multi-levelled Derinkuyu underground city – This is a must experience in Cappadocia as it shows how people of yester years lived underground and had almost all kinds of facilities.

4) Sunset at Red valley is perfect for photographers.

5) Walk through Zelve open-air museum and watch the cave houses, churches and living quarters of people who used to live here many hundreds of years ago.

6) Monks valley for some of the best rock formations in Cappadocia.

7) Love valley for a sunset view and for a view of Turkey’s tallest mountain.

8) And last, but not the least, the Aktepe white hill and Goreme open-air museum.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport to Cappadocia is either the Kayseri or Nevsehir airport. Both these airports are well connected with Istanbul and are about an hour’s drive to the main tourist attractions of Cappadocia.

Turkey also has very good buses that ply on excellent roads. If time is not an issue and if you wish to travel on a budget, opt for the comfortable VIP buses that connect Cappadocia with the rest of the country.

Kayseri would be your nearest railroad. It offers good connectivity with the rest of the country. One can take a taxi or bus to reach Goreme from here.



Where to stay:

Usually, cave hotels and cave houses are the most popular option of staying in Cappadocia. But, let me warn you that in spite of their innate charm, they can be damp, cold, musty and have very low ceilings. If you wish to opt for a cave room, do make sure that it is really top class.

There are also many Turkish homes where you can stay in Cappadocia. They give you local flavor both in terms of interactions as well as food.

As Cappadocia is one of the most popular destinations of Turkey, there is no paucity of stay options here. From luxury to budget backpacking, the options are aplenty.

The only key thing for you to decide is the location. You could opt for the popular Goreme, the city like Nevsehir, the quieter Uchisar or even Avanos and Urgup.



Other popular places to explore in Turkey:

1) The city of Istanbul that straddles Europe and Asia

2) The absolutely spectacular Lake Van near the Turkey – Iran border on the east

3) Gobekle Tepe, the oldest place of worship in the world

4) Lycian way, 550 kms of ancient trail on the southern coastline of Turkey that is made up of sensational beaches, great architectural ruins, rich Greek history, stunning views and pure trekking bliss

5) Ephesus and Aphrodisias, two ancient Greek ruins in Turkey

6) The natural hot water springs of Pamukkale

7) The islands in the Aegean sea, especially the ones off Bodrum, Marmaris and Fethiye

8) The historical town of Mardin that overlooks Mesopotamia

9) The black sandy beaches of Trabzon

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Kayakoy: The Ghost Town of Turkey

Once upon a time, there was a bustling Lycian era town in South-Western Turkey that enjoyed great maritime trade and a beautiful location. Known as ‘Karmilassos’ (Lebessos) in ancient Greek and pronounced as Livissi in modern Greek, this town of craftsmen enjoyed prosperity and happiness from the ancient Greek era, Byzantine period to the late Ottoman empire. Made up of Greek orthodox Christians and Turkish Ottoman Muslims, they lived in peace till the early 20th century when religion based cleansing took place. Around that time, either the Greeks were killed or they were forcibly converted to Islam. Those who converted to Islam and came to be known as Greek Muslims refused to stay in this village due to fear of ghosts of those who were killed. Thus, began the abandonment of this village. All that is left today is a ghost town called Kayakoy.



Much of its current streets and buildings were built in the 18th century, but they lie in a dilapidated state today. The roofs are missing, the buildings look weather-beaten and the paths worn out. Two Greek orthodox churches, fountains, cisterns and about 350 homes now sit empty in this famous ghost town of Turkey. In spite of all this, the ghost town of Kayakoy has a unique charm to it. This could be due to the eerie quietness, its grey stone buildings, its hilly surroundings or its horrendous past. But, there is something about it that begs attention and evinces interest.



I didn’t know much about this ghost town before I landed there as part of my Lycian way trek, but after seeing it up close and live, I think it deserves a visit if you happen to be exploring Fethiye, Oludeniz or trekking the ancient Lycian way route. It is not often that you come across such abandoned towns that are surrounded by stunning land and seascapes. Do not miss the trek to Oludeniz when visiting Kayakoy for those legendary aerial views of the coast.



How to get here:

The nearest airport is Dalaman and it is about 45 minutes away from Fethiye. The nearest large city would be Fethiye and it has good road connectivity with the rest of Turkey.

If you are driving from Fethiye, Kayakoy is about 15 kms or 25 minutes away.

If you wish to trek from Oludeniz, you can follow a 2.5 km trekking trail over the mountains while enjoying some stunning mountain and sea vistas.



Where to stay:

If you prefer to stay in a city, opt for any of the many accommodation options in Fethiye. If you like luxury and prefer a beach side resort, opt for Oludeniz. If you like staying with locals, opt for remote homestays on the ancient Lycian way for a truly authentic experience.



Nearby tourist attractions:

1) Oludeniz beach town

2) Lycian way trek

3) Fethiye rock tombs

4) Island hopping from Fethiye, Marmaris or Bodrum

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