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Tuesday, March 09, 2021

Sanchi Stupa: Indian Heritage Gem that gave Torana Architecture to the World

A wealth of information on the toranas of Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh

It is one of the oldest stone structures in India. It is probably the best preserved group of Buddhist monuments in India. The architecture of Rashtrapati Bhavan and many other buildings in India drew their inspiration from this Indian monument. This UNESCO world heritage site is seen on the back of the 200 Rupee Indian currency note. I am talking about Sanchi Stupa, the Indian heritage gem that gave torana architecture to the world.



Located in the heart of India in the state of Madhya Pradesh, Sanchi Stupa was originally commissioned by the emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE. It underwent many additions starting from the 3rd century BCE to the 11th century CE. The original hemispherical brick structure, pillars of Ashoka and one of the first free standing temples of India (Temple 40) were built during the reign of the Mauryan empire (3rd century BCE). During the Shunga period (2nd century BCE), they increased the size of the Great Stupa by adding stone slabs to it, added balustrade reliefs, staircases and some more small stupas. During the Satavahana period (1st century BCE to 1st century CE), the toranas or decorated gateways were built. And during the later periods of Western Satraps and the Guptas, further stupas and other religious Buddhist structures were built.

The story of Lord Buddha, King Ashoka and his followers during the light and sound show at Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh

The highlight of Sanchi Stupa has to be its four intricately carved toranas. Different aspects of Buddha’s life and of Buddhism can be seen at Sanchi Stupa, especially on these four toranas (gateways) that are located at four different directions (north, east, west, south) around the stupa. Each of these toranas are intricately carved. The work is so beautiful that you might actually think that the panels on the toranas are made out of wood, but they are made of stone and they were carved by the ivory carvers of Vidisha.

The gorgeous Sanchi Stupa of Madhya Pradesh

Different scenes from the life of Buddha, Jataka tales, miracles of Buddha, temptation of Buddha, war over Buddha’s relics, removal of the relics by Ashoka, building of the Bodh Gaya temple by Ashoka, foreign devotees and much more can be seen on the relief panels of these toranas. Each inch of the toranas are full of rich visual stories that interest all kinds of visitors. The attention to detail and the skills displayed here are beyond exemplary. These toranas are so good, that countries around the world (Japan, China, etc.) have borrowed ideas from it and installed it in their temples and buildings.



The information depicted at Sanchi Stupa is enough to fill the pages of an entire book. What is even more special is that Sanchi stupa has stood for over 2400 years and the toranas have stood for close to 2000 years. And they still look as good as new. And which is why one needs the services of a knowledgeable guide to understand the full extent of this monument’s rich heritage.

The torana that is on the back of the 200 rupee note
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The best way to explore Sanchi Stupa is first with a guide, then with a book, then with a camera and even then, you might have missed to spot a story portrayed on one of the relief panels. Personally, I prefer slow circumambulation of the Sanchi Stupa, one at the ground level and one at the first level. You might want to carry a pair of binoculars or a camera with a zoom lens to see the smaller relief panels on the top of the torana clearly. And if you do this circumambulation at leisure, you might return to your hotel with a vast amount of information on the life of Buddha, the Jataka tales, the life of King Ashoka, the trade that happened at that time and the various influences of different empires on this monument from the 3rd century BCE to the 11th century CE. And boy, this rich insight is bound to thrill the culture lover in you.

The iconic Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh

The sound and light show organized every night will also add to this pool of information, but it will provide you with a very different perspective of this UNESCO world heritage site. For all those who missed availing the services of a guide, this 35 minute show is a great way to learn about Sanchi Stupa, its history, Buddhism and more.

The famous torana of Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh

It doesn’t matter whether you a regular tourist, a history lover, a follower of Buddhism, a culture lover, a student of archaeology or one who ticks off UNESCO heritage sites from their travel bucket-list, Sanchi Stupa possesses all the ingredients to truly bowl you over with its rich visual depictions. Its tales will carry you back 2500 years back to a time of King Ashoka and the Mauryas and sometimes much further beyond than that into the world of Lord Buddha and his interesting life stories. Sanchi stupa is a rich Indian heritage gem that needs to be treasured, preserved and appreciated by all of us. Such places make us immensely proud of our ancestors and our rich lineage.

Visit Sanchi Stupa if you haven’t visited it already. May be, plan a trip this year.

The intricately carved torana at Sanchi Stupa

How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Rajabhoj international airport at Bhopal. It is well connected with the rest of the country.

The nearest railway station would be Sanchi, though the one with the best connectivity would be Bhopal. Likewise with the bus station.

Intricate carvings on the torana of Sanchi Stupa - the best of its time

Sanchi Stupa is about 50 kms from Bhopal or about one and a half hours by road. Local taxis, self drives or local buses can easily take you from Bhopal to Sanchi town.

The stunning torana of Sanchi stupa shining in the evening light

Sanchi Stupa light and sound show:

There is a sound and light show that happens every night at Sanchi Stupa between 7:30 PM and 8:05 PM. The counter opens at 7 PM, though one can book tickets in advance.

Sound and Light show at Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh

This sound and light show walks you through the rich history of this land through some great visual and voice overs.

It could be a bit chilly during the winter months. It might be prudent to carry your warm wear with you during those months.

The myriad of Buddha stories and winged lions on the toranas of Sanchi Stupa

Guide services:

A rich heritage site like Sanchi Stupa certainly requires the services of a learned and knowledgeable tourist guide. You can either hire the services of a government approved tour guide at Sanchi Stupa, hire one at your hotel , make use of the one provided by your travel agency or hire one directly.

A knowledgeable guide will make your Sanchi Stupa experience so much richer and fulfilling.

The ancient Sanchi Stupa of India

Daily timings and weekly offs:

Sanchi Stupa is closed every Monday and during the other days of the week, it is open from 8 AM to 7 PM.

If you wish to visit the Sanchi archaeological museum, then remember that it is closed every Friday and it’s daily timings are 9 AM to 5 PM.

The mythological creatures holding the load of the toranas at Sanchi Stupa

Best season to visit:

Summers tend to be a bit warm at Sanchi and can be best avoided. Monsoons, post monsoons, winter and early spring are the best months to visit Sanchi Stupa. While the rains make the bleak landscape lush and make for vibrant sights, winters are perfect for those long walks in the sun. Don’t miss to carry your woollens if you are traveling during the winters. Late evenings and early mornings can be especially nippy.

200 rupee Indian note and Sanchi Stupa

Where to stay:

If you wish to stay close to Sanchi Stupa (which is what I would recommend), you can look at the simple budget property called Gateway Retreat run by Madhya Pradesh tourism. This property offers all the basic amenities and is real close to Sanchi Stupa. If you wish for a slightly more luxurious property, look up Aaram Bagh Sanchi run by Pachar group.

If you wish to stay close to Udayagiri caves, look up the MP tourism property called Jungle Resort.

The famous toranas of Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh

Where to eat:

There are a few restaurants in Sanchi town that can dish out decent food. However, if you are a larger group, it might be prudent to order in advance.

It might also be better to plan your meals at your place of stay so that you can freshen up and eat at the same location.

There are restaurants near Vidisha in case you are headed towards Udayagiri caves.

A tropic of cancer street moment in Madhya Pradesh

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Udayagiri Caves: 5th century cultural beauty of Madhya Pradesh

2) Bhimbetka rock shelters: An UNESCO world heritage site and home to some of the oldest known rock art in the Indian subcontinent

3) Bhojpur: Home to the largest Shiva lingam in the world

The Sanchi Stupa torana that you see on the back of the 200 rupee Indian currency note

4) Taj-ul-Masajid: One of the largest mosques in Asia

5) Bhopal: The beautiful city of lakes that is known for its greenery, culture and food

6) Chanderi: The historical city famous for its sarees

7) Orchha: The hidden capital of the Bundelkhand kingdom

8) Khajuraho: The 10th century erotic art temple wonder

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Sunday, March 29, 2020

The Heritage Gem called Ellora Caves: A Photo Essay

The magnificent Kailasa temple at Ellora Caves, Maharashtra

I don’t know why the Kailasa temple at Ellora is not one of the seven wonders of the world. It’s excavation, carving and stature is unparalleled in the whole world. After all, it is the largest single monolithic rock excavation in the world.

Ellora caves is one of the largest rock-cut monastery-temple cave complexes in the world. Dating from the 6th century CE, this UNESCO World Heritage site houses monuments and artwork is dedicated to Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. Like I mentioned in my earlier photo essay article on Ajanta Caves, the 2200 year old rock cave wonder, photographs don’t allow you to experience the magnitude of its magnificence and size, but it still gives you a good idea about one of India’s best heritage sites.

The idea is to give you a sneak peek into the rich architecture, stunning sculptures, gorgeous carvings and inhuman excavation capabilities of Ellora caves through this photo essay. I hope it takes you on a virtual tour through one of Incredible India’s rich heritage gems while all of us stay indoors during the lockdown.

Above photo: Every nook and cranny of Kailasha temple is carved or sculpted with gods, goddesses, mythological stories and more. Just this one temple can take you a good half day just to see it properly.

Inside the Jain temples of Ellora

Above photo:
Each cave at Ellora looks different because it was built during a different time under a different ruler and with different artisans. This is how it looks inside the gorgeous Jain temples of Ellora, particularly Cave 32.

Admiring the view of Ellora Caves Kailasa temple - one of the top wonders of the world

Above photo: Kailasa temple was built by chiselling a mountain top down for over 200 years. One can simply stare at it and wonder with an open mouth as to how this was possible 1400 years ago with no machines or technology.

Intricate carvings on the lower deck walls of Kailasa temple, Ellora Caves

Above photo: The relief panels on the lower deck of Kailasa temple showcase mythological stories from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. And just to give you perspective, this panel is over 30 feet tall.

Carpenter's cave at Cave 10, Ellora Caves

Above photo: Cave 10 at Ellora is very similar in design to the Buddhist caves of Ajanta. Known as the Carpenter’s cave, this is a chaityagraha where Buddha is in a preaching position.

Shiva as Natarajar - Cave 15, Ellora Caves

Above photo: Learning about the life of Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvati is one of the special experiences of Ellora Caves. Each aspect of their life has been beautifully sculpted on the rock temple walls. This is Shiva as Natarajar in Cave 15.

Ellora Caves Kailasa Temple at a glance

Above photo: Kailasa temple or Cave 16, the center of all attention at Ellora Caves. This is how it looks as soon you get your entry tickets and enter the main trail.

Kailasa temple - the single largest rock excavation in the world

Above photo: Kailasa temple’s art and creativity can be experienced at the ground level, but to experience its sheer size, you will have to climb the steep trail along the sides of the temple. This trail which leads you above the temple and that makes you stand on the same hill as the temple gives you an idea of its massive size and also allows you to admire its beauty from a different perspective.

Parvati and Shiva at leisure - Rameshwar temple, Cave 21, Ellora

Above photo: Rameshwar temple or Cave 21 is one of the gems of Ellora Caves. This Hindu temple is full of gorgeous sculptures of the gods and goddesses. Here is a sculpture of Shiva and Parvati sitting in leisure at Kailasa while the devalok watches them.

The top view of Kailasa temple, Ellora

Above photo: Another top view of the Kailasa temple at Ellora shows you the attention to detail even while carving the top of the world. It feels like these 4 lions were to guide the people in the sky to the temple.

The beautiful Jain temples at Ellora, Maharashtra

Above photo: The Jain temples at Ellora might not have the size of the Buddhist temples or the grandeur of the Hindu temples, but they certainly make up through intricate and delicate carvings.

Stunning carvings on Kailasha temple, Ellora caves, Maharashtra

Above photo: A side view of the Kailasa temple at Ellora showing you the multiple levels of the temple, its carved pillars and its attention to detail.

Parvati's wedding to Shiva, Rameshwar temple, Cave 21, Ellora

Above photo: Another gorgeous sculpture from the Rameshwar temple or Cave 21. This is Parvati’s wedding to Shiva while the other gods and goddess look on.

The magical Kailasa temple of Ellora Caves, Maharashtra

Above photo: One of the best experiences at Ellora Caves is to climb to the top of the Kailasa temple. This location gives you a good lay of the land and allows you to appreciate the top down excavation of the mountain that you are standing on.

Lord Varaha killing Hiraniyakashyap - Cave 15, Ellora Caves

Above photo: Ellora caves is full of beautiful mythological stories. This is in Cave 15 where Lord Vishnu takes the avatar of Varaha to kill the demon king Hiranyakashyapa and free Bhudevi from his clutches. This fight took place in the deepest parts of the ocean.

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Friday, February 01, 2019

Rani Ki Vav: The 100 Rupee Note World Heritage Site

The stunning Rani Ki Vav finds itself on the new 100 rupee currency note of India

Post the demonetization in 2016, the Indian government have been releasing a new set of currency notes. Apart from the 2000 rupee currency note, which showcases the Mangalyaan space satellite on the back, all the other new currency notes showcase the various UNESCO World Heritage Sites of India. This is a nice way to promote our rich heritage and boost tourism. I am pretty sure that you would have noticed these heritage sites on our currency notes, but not sure if you recognize their important status in our country’s rich heritage and tourism.

World Heritage Site of Rani Ki Vav on the back of our 100 rupee currency note

The latest entry in this currency series is the purple/lavender colour 100 (One Hundred) rupee note. On the back of this 100 rupee note is the 11th century marvel of a stepwell called Rani Ki Vav or Queen’s Stepwell that is located at a small town called Patan in North West Gujarat. I happened to be holidaying in this part of Gujarat when this currency note seemed to be coming into proper circulation. So, when I did arrive at Rani Ki Vav at Patan (the erstwhile capital of Gujarat) after exploring the heritage city of Ahmedabad and the offbeat heritage town of Siddhpur, I got hold of a 100 rupee note and clicked the picture of the note and the stepwell structure. A lot of people were doing the same and it was an interesting thing to do in this absolutely gorgeous sculpted beauty.

This is what is portrayed in the new 100 rupee currency note - Rani Ki Vav, Gujarat

The picture on the 100 rupee note does not portray the true beauty of this place and hence I recommend everyone to visit this place on their next holiday to Gujarat. The intricate carvings and the sculpting here is unbelievable and the fact that this marvel of engineering and creativity served as a place of entertainment for the people while they filled their daily ration of water says volumes about the Chalukya and the Solanki dynasties that ruled Gujarat in that time. I will be writing a detailed post with a good many pictures and videos about Rani Ki Vav in my next few blog posts. So do stay tuned for that and bookmark this place for future holiday ideas.

Here is a list of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites that are on the back of the new Indian currency notes. I have explored and experienced all of them. Have you?

500 Rupee Note: Red Fort, Delhi

200 Rupee Note: Sanchi Stupa, Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

100 Rupee Note: Rani Ki Vav, Patan, Gujarat

50 Rupee Note: Vittala Temple, Hampi, Karnataka

10 Rupee Note: Sun Temple, Konark, Odisha

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Wednesday, December 19, 2018

Treebo Ambassador: Great Budget Hotel to Explore Heritage City of Ahmedabad

Colorful door at the tomb of Ahmed Shah, Ahmedabad Old City

I am the kind of traveler who loves staying close to all the action, especially if I happen to be exploring a large city. And hence when I was planning to explore India’s only world heritage city of Ahmedabad, I pretty much started looking for good hotels in the vicinity of the walled city. The requirements were simple: budget hotel, modern creature comforts and ease of access to the heritage sites.  And that is when my search took me to Treebo Ambassador Hotel, that is located near the Nehru bridge area of Ahmedabad. Treebo Hotels, which is a new chain of budget hotels across India, had good reviews and ratings and thus I took the plunge and ended up staying 2 days and 2 nights with them. This property review is based on this recent experience of mine.

Fantastic Location

The Iconic SIddi Syed Jaali work of Ahmedabad

I cannot rave enough about the location of this hotel. It is just a 4 minute walk to Siddi Syed Mosque (one of the icons of Ahmedabad’s rich heritage), about a 10 minute walk to Manek Chowk (the main market area and the evening food street) and just a couple of kilometers from the railway station, if you happen to enter or exit via Indian Railways. And the ease of access also augurs very well if you are interested in going on those early morning or late evening heritage walks in the walled city. Even the Sabarmati river front is just a stone’s throw away. All in all, Treebo Ambassador hotel enjoys fantastic location.

Quiet Rooms

One of the perils of staying in the city center, especially in an Indian city is the high level of noise owing to the busy nature of the location. I was so happy when I found out that my room in the hotel was super quiet. After a day out in the busy city, all we need is a good night’s sleep and a super quiet room goes a long way in getting that done.

Modern Comforts at a Budget Price

Its prayer time at Jama Masjid, Ahmedabad

Each room of Treebo Ambassador offers adjustable air-conditioning, satellite television, running hot showers, good quality wi-fi, comfortable mattresses and pillows, hot water kettles with coffee and tea sachets and well lit rooms. Personally, I would have preferred a little firmer and taller mattress, but otherwise it was fine. And all of this is usually available for below INR 2000 per night per room. If you catch a season discount or any co-branded cashbacks, you could potentially get it for a much cheaper price.

Complimentary Breakfast and In-House Restaurant

The in-house restaurant dishes out some good food, which I got to try a couple of times. The complimentary breakfast is simple, but tasty fare. The only suggestion would be to start breakfast at 7 AM instead of 8 AM, so that it enables all those early morning heritage walks and for those who have early morning checkouts.

Helpful Front Desk

Check-in and check-out was a breeze for me and the front desk were kind enough to help answer my various questions like, how to get here, which is best place to eat Gujarati lunch, how far is this location and so on and so forth. In this day and era of Google Maps, Uber, Ola and good connectivity, all the information is usually found on the web and we usually don’t need much guidance, but it is always nice to get a local’s perspective. And I got all of this with a smiling face, which is very much comforting when you are traveling.

Verdict

Intricate carvings on Jama Masjid walls, Ahmedabad

Overall, if you are looking for a good budget hotel in the vicinity of the heritage city of Ahmedabad, but at the same time that is not too far away from the riverfront, I would recommend you to take a look at Treebo Ambassador Hotel, a great pick of the many budget hotels in Ahmedabad. It is one of those places that offer good value for money while providing you modern day comforts.I would certainly recommend it!

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Tuesday, December 18, 2018

India’s Only UNESCO World Heritage City: Totally deserves that name tag!

The tree of life (date palm) depicted at Siddi Syed Mosque, Ahmedabad

We all know about UNESCO World Heritage sites and we know that they hold a special place in the world. But, what about UNESCO world heritage cities? What kind of importance do they hold in our history?

An Ahmedabad Heritage City walk moment

Well, the way I see it, there is a whole lot of charm associated with UNESCO world heritage cities. It is a series of sights, monuments, history and experiences that keep you in awe all throughout. It offers us the opportunity to experience the glory of our past and the near perfect destination a tourist looks for.

Teen Darwaza as seen from the top of Bhadra Fort, Ahmedabad

Some immediate examples that come to my mind are Colombia’s Quito, Laos’s Luang Prabang, Vietnam’s Hoi An, Italy’s Rome, Iran’s Isfahan, Belgium’s Bruges, Austria’s Salzburg and Israel’s Jerusalem. While all of these are fabulous cities in their own right, I was always saddened that there was no Indian world heritage city in this list. But, that changed when the walled city of Ahmedabad moved into that list last year.

Colorful Swaminarayan Temple, Ahmedabad

I had to wait for 18 months before I got the opportunity to experience India’s first and only UNESCO World Heritage City. I am talking about Gujarat’s Ahmedabad or Amdavad as locals call it. Founded by Sultan Ahmed Shah in the 15th century, this walled city located on the eastern banks of the Sabarmati river is full of architectural and technological brilliance.

Intricate carvings on Jama Masjid walls, Ahmedabad

Right from Siddi Syed Mosque’s iconic jaali work to its majestic Bhadra citadel and from its gated communities to its well entrenched systems of water harvesting and sewerage treatment, this historic city of Ahmedabad is a sight to behold. The best way to experience this walled city is to go on a Ahmedabad heritage walk either early in the morning or late in the evening when the colorful bazaars can be seen in full glory.



This heritage walk will take you from mandir (temple) to masjid (mosque) and in between, you will weave in and out of densely packed traditional houses (pols) located in traditional gated communities (puras). These gated communities have their own security systems, religious institutions, business centers, secret passages in case of attack, bird feeding systems, public wells, merchant’s havelis, oles (a building where the ground floor is the shop and the rest of the floors make the home), bullion markets and even a stock exchange.

The ancient haveli that has been converted into a homestay for tourists - Heritage city of Ahmedabad

The key points of interest on this walk are:



1) Swaminarayan Temple

2) Kavi Dalpatram Chowk

3) Calico Dome

Kala Ramji Mandir in Ahmedabad old city

4) Kala Ramji Mandir

5) Shantinathji Mandir

6) Kuvavala Khancho

7) Zaveri Vad

Colorful temple door seen during Ahmedabad Heritage Walk

8) Sambhavnath Ni Khidki

9) Chaumukhji Ni Pol

10) Doshivada Ni Pol

11) Astapadji Derasar

Elephant and Dragon in Indo Chinese architecture - A merchant house in Ahmedabad's heritage city

12) Harkunvar Shethani Ni Haveli

13) Fernandez Bridge

14) Chandla Ol

The Colorful door with the Peshwa turban man in Amdavad heritage city

15) Muhart Pol

16) Muharat Pol

17) Manek Chowk

Colorful door at the tomb of Ahmed Shah, Ahmedabad Old City

18) Rani No-Haziro

19) Badshah-No-Haziro



20) Jami Masjid

21) Teen Darwaza

22) Bhadrakali Mandir

Bhadra Fort, Ahmedabad

23) Bhadra Fort

24) Siddi Syed Mosque

A moment from Ahmedabad's heritage walk

Everything about this heritage city will be thrilling to see, experience and learn. Be it the Indo-Chinese or the Indo-European designs, the Jain architecture in Muslim monuments, the engineering advancements in terms of ventilation, earthquake proofing, flood protection, sewerage treatment, water harvesting and so on and so forth.

The ancient stock exchange of Ahmedabad

One of the most happening places in this walled city is Manek Chowk. This bullion market market during the day is actually a vegetable market in the early hours of the morning followed by an animal feeding farm before becoming a bullion bazaar. And once the bullion shops close, Manek chowk turns into a food street and then the entire cycle begins yet again. This is part of an ancient technique to ensure safety of people and goods. Manek chowk is also a great place to go for a bite after 8 pm in the night. It is also a fantastic place for photography.

The intricately carved Jama Masjid of Ahmedabad

Jama Masjid is another place where you should spend significant amount of time, especially during the prayer hours so that you can experience the routine while you soak in the divine ambience. Its pillars and main arch showcases rich Hindu and Jain designs and the tree of life is what captures immediate attention. Siddi Syed Mosque is another location that should not be missed. It is famous for its jaali or lattice work, especially the date palm or tree of life that was built from a single piece of stone. This tree of life is also part of the logo of IIM Ahmedabad and one of modern Ahmedabad’s iconic location.

Tree of life sculpted on the walls of Jama Masjid, Ahmedabad

Another must do activity is to climb the Bhadra citadel in the morning hours and see the entire hustle and bustle of the bazaars in front of Teen Darwaza from above. Do note that they do not allow you to climb to the top after noon.

Tree of Life at Siddi Syed Mosque, Ahmedabad Heritage City

Be its mosques, Hindu temples, Jain temples, bazaars, forts, gated communities, tombs, traditional homes or bird feeding sites, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Amdavad’s walled city is a must experience! It takes on a different flavor at different times of the day. And then you have the lip smacking Gujarati food and desserts to energize you during the whole experience. I certainly had a ball of time exploring and experiencing this 15th century historic city and I am pretty sure that you will be blown away too!

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