Sonda: The Lush Temple Village located in the lap of the Western Ghats

It is the kind of place where peace, spirituality and lush nature go hand in hand. It is a place where prehistoric rock art, beautiful Hindu and Jain temples and a matha established by Sri Madhvacharya exist in close proximity to each other. It is the kind of place where life seems to move at a much slower pace. I am talking about Sonda or Sodhe, the lush temple village that is nestled amidst the Sahyadri mountains and is surrounded by the dense jungles of the Western Ghats.

As a thumb rule, most tourists visit this village for the 13th century Sodhe Matha (also known as Sri Vadiraja Matha), one of the Ashta Mathas established by Sri Madhvacharya, the famous Dvaita philosopher. The main deities worshipped here are Lord Bhuvaraha, Lord Hayagriva and Sri Bhuta Raja. The brindavana of Swami Vadiraja Tirtha can also be found here. But, there is more to Sonda, than the Sodhe Matha. There is the Rama Trivikrama temple and stone chariot, built in Vijayanagara style, the Shankarnarayana temple built in Chalukyan style, the many Digambar Jain temples located in and round Sonda, the Mundigekere bird sanctuary (a breeding ground for cattle egrets and some other waterfowl), the Sahasralinga on the river Shalmala and the many Jain monasteries.

Each of these places offer rustic charm, pristine nature and oodles of peace.



So, if you happen to be in the Uttara Kannada region for a day trip, weekend trip, monsoon holiday or for a longer trip, don’t forget to add Sonda and its many attractions into your itinerary. This temple village is also the kind of place where one can stay for a much longer duration if detox, meditation and rejuvenation are on your mind. And while you are here, do remember to pay a visit to the famous waterfalls of Uttara Kannada for a waterfall bath and natural massage.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Hubli airport, about 110 kms away.

The nearest railway and bus station would be Sirsi, about 20 kms away. Regular buses ply from Sirsi to Yellapur and you can get share taxis or autorickshaws from the bus stop.

There are two to three routes to reach Sonda from Sirsi, but the easiest one is to head north on the Sirsi – Yellapur road and turn left at the Sonda deviation towards the Sodhe Mutt and then turn right at the Sodhe Vadiraja Mutt arch.

Where to stay:

There are a few simple places to stay at Sonda like the Yatrinivas at Sonda and the Sodhe Mutt. There are also many homestays in the region that can offer you a lush environment with a local experience. My personal favorite is Tavarumane homestay, a blissful rural holiday destination in Karnataka.

For something fancier, head to Sirsi.

Best season to visit:

Sonda is open all year round, but if you want to experience the lush atmosphere in all its glory, either head there during the rains or right after it/

Where to eat:

There are a few small shacks at Sonda where you can find a small bite to eat. For something more, try the restaurants on the Sirsi-Yellapur highway. For a wide variety of dining options, head to Sirsi.

If you don’t want to do the long commutes for food, it might be prudent to eat at your homestay or carry a picnic meal with you.

Other tourist attractions nearby:

1) Mundigekere bird sanctuary – great place for relaxed birdwatching

2) Shankarnarayana temple – Chalukya era temple hidden in the forest

3) Sahasralinga – home to thousands of Shiva lingas on the banks of the river Shalmala

4) Magod Falls – a colossal monsoon spectacle

5) Vibhooti Falls – Karnataka’s jungle waterfall with a natural swimming pool

6) Yana rocks and caves – magical place in the forests of Karnataka

7) Shivapura hanging bridge – a motorcyclist’s delight

8) Sathodi Falls – Karnataka’s prettiest jungle waterfall

9) Devimane ghat – monsoon beauty home to medicinal plants and herbs

10) Bilihole Falls – hidden waterfall amidst the untouched forests of Western Ghats in Karnataka

11) Unchalli Falls – stunning monsoon holiday destination of Karnataka

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Mirjan Fort: The 16th century structure that is taken over by moss during the monsoons

It was an important trading center for pepper, cassia and nutmeg between the 16th and the 19th century. It has stood the test of time in spite of countless battles. While there are many theories regarding its exact history, it is clear that it has seen the rule of Vijayanagara kings, Bijapur sultans, Keladi kings, the Marathas and the British. I am talking about the laterite rock structure called Mirjan Fort that is located by the banks of the Aghanashini river between Kumta and Gokarna in the Uttara Kannada region of Karnataka.



While this 16th century monument enjoys a rich past, I like it for its vibrant green colour that it dons during the monsoon season. The high humidity, the bright sunshine and the consistent heavy showers ensures that moss takes over this reddish brown laterite rock structure and turns it into a green paradise that is surrounded by even more greenery. The swaying coconut palms, the tropical forests and the Western Ghats in the background complete this magical green concoction.



In its hey days, Mirjan fort enjoyed a protective circular moat, high turrets on its bastions, secret passages, darbar halls, markets, water management, prayer halls, watch towers and more. Today, the structure stands tall in all its glory minus the internal structures and allows nature to decorate it the way it pleases. This decoration by mother nature is very pleasing to the eye and is the main reason for you to visit Mirjan fort in the monsoons and may be right after.

History lovers and archaeology students might see way more details in this historical structure, but to the eye of the regular visitor, it is this green world that completely mesmerizes them. I highly recommend visiting this historical gem in the monsoons.



Best season to visit:

The monsoons and the post winter months are best to see the Mirjan fort decked completely in green. They also happen to have the most pleasant weather.

One can also visit in the spring and summer months, but mostly in the cooler times of the morning and late evening. High humidity might be an issue in this season.



How to reach here:

The nearest railway station would be Kumta. The nearest airport would either be Hubli in Karnataka or Panjim in Goa.

Mirajn Fort is about 12 kms north of Kumta and 21 kms south of Gokarna. Buses playing between Kumta and Gokarna or Karwar will drop you on the NH 66 highway point that leads to the Mirjan Fort. From this point, it should be a 5 to 10 minute walk on flat land.



Where to stay:

If beach resorts are on your mind, the beach cottages at Gokarna would be your best bet. South Goa and Maravanthe beach, though a bit far away would also be good choices.

If forest stays are on your mind, you should try the homestays located in the Sirsi – Yellapur region. My favorite is the Tavarumane homestay that is located near Jajjigudde village.

If good quality budget accommodation is on your mind, try the hotels at Kumta, Sirsi or Honavara.

If luxury accommodation is what you crave, try the ones at Kundapura, Goa, Hubli, Udupi or Mangalore.



Where to eat:

The nearest place to eat would be either Kumta or Gokarna. While Gokarna might have more beach facing restaurants, Kumta has slightly larger restaurants.

If you prefer to stick to the highway, there are various highway restaurants catering to different needs of their visitors.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Gokarna: The coastal town known for its temples and pristine beaches

2) Karwar: The town on the Karnataka-Goa border known for its offshore islands, black sandy beaches and Kali river estuary

3) Apsarakonda Falls: A gorgeous waterfall located real close to the Arabian Sea

4) Sharavati river valley: The view of Shola forests surrounding the Linganamkki reservoir on the Sagara – Honavara highway

5) Jog Falls: One of the highest waterfalls of India and an iconic landmark of Karnataka

6) Yana rocks and caves: A magical place in the forests of Karnataka

7) Vibhooti Falls: Karnataka’s jungle waterfall with a natural swimming pool

8) Unchalli Falls: Stunning monsoon holiday destination of Karnataka

9) Magod Falls: One of the most magnificent waterfalls of Karnataka

10) Sathodi Falls: Karnataka’s prettiest jungle waterfall

11) Bilihole Falls: Hidden waterfall amidst the untouched forests of the Western Ghats in Karnataka

12) Sirsi Marikamba Temple: A 16th century temple dedicated to goddess Durga and that is an iconic landmark of Uttara Kannada

13) Maravanthe Beach: The highway rider’s favorite pitstop

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Magod Falls: A Colossal Monsoon Spectacle

It is one of the most magnificent waterfalls of Karnataka that becomes a thundering spectacle of water tumbling down in torrents amidst pristine forests of the Western Ghats. Add to it the persistent drizzle and/or rains, consistent mist cover, fresh green vegetation and you have a dream monsoon holiday destination.



Somewhere between Sirsi and Yellapur and surrounded by the dense forests of the Western Ghats, the Bedti river takes 3 turns and drops close to 660 feet in 2 steps to form the mighty Magod falls. The Magod falls view point is located on the opposite hill and this allows you to see the entire spectacle from different view points across different elevations. The walk between these various view points is an experience in itself as during the rains this entire trail is covered in mist and one must patiently wait for the mist to clear so that they can see the waterfall view that they could hear all along.

Each view point (there are 4 or 5 in total) allows you to enjoy the Magod waterfall from different vantage points. The walk between the view points is short, but steep and hence each view point allows you to catch your breath while you soak in the lush views. In between these view points on the opposite side of hill are some other tiny waterfalls that come alive during the monsoons and make for an interesting view too.



If you don’t mind the rains, this terrain allows you the best experience of the forests, mist, clouds, waterfalls and a monsoon walk. It is also a perfect place for a monsoon lunch, but do keep an eye out for the rowdy monkeys here. If you love monsoon holidays, this colossal monsoon spectacle should certainly feature high on your monsoon travel bucket-list in Karnataka. One of the top gems of Uttara Kannada and one of my favorite waterfalls of Karnataka.



Best season to visit:

The monsoons are the best time to see the waterfall in full flow. This is also the time when the surrounding vegetation is lush and the waterfall carries heavy volumes of water. At times, mist can cover the waterfall view during the monsoons. It is best to wait for a few minutes to allow the mist to clear.

The post monsoon season is also a great time to see the waterfall. Views are much clearer during this time and there is no threat of rain or leeches.



How to reach there:

Magod Falls lies right in between Sirsi and Yellapur.

There are two routes to reach to this waterfall:

Route 1: This is the main route with larger roads. You reach Yellapur and from Yellapur take the main road towards Kavadikere and Magod Falls.

Route 2: This is a tougher, but prettier route. It takes you through dense forests and the roads are much smaller here. At places, there might nothing more than a mud track here. When coming from Sirsi and once you cross the Bedti river bridge, you keep a look out for a left turn near Upaleshwara. This left turn will take you to Ghante Ganapati temple and from there to Chandaguli village and then onto Magod Falls.



Where to stay:

If budget accommodation is on your mind, you can try the budget hotels in either Sirsi or at Yellapur.

If you prefer a traditional experience, I would recommend staying at homestays in this region. My favorite homestay in this region is Tavarumane homestay, a simple place near Jajjigudde village that is surrounded by nature and that comes with unbelievably delicious food.

If beach resorts are on your mind, try the ones in and around Kumta, Gokarna or Karwar.



Where to eat:

The nearest place to eat would be Yellapur.

Shanbag hotel is a famous hotel for vegetarians. They also specialize in ayurvedic products of the land.

Indraprastha restaurant is also a great place to eat good food.

There are other restaurants on the main road to cater to the diverse dietary needs of the people.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Sathodi Falls: Karnataka’s prettiest jungle waterfall

2) Shivapura hanging bridge: A motorcyclist’s delight on the Kodisalli reservoir

3) Yana rocks and caves: Magical place in the forests of Karnataka

4) Kavadikere: Lake temple dedicated to goddess Durga between Magod falls and Yellapur

5) Shirley Falls: A pristine forest waterfall near Yellapur

6) Vibhooti Falls: Karnataka’s jungle waterfall with a swimming pool

7) Unchalli Falls: Stunning monsoon holiday destination of Karnataka

8) Devimane Ghat: Monsoon beauty home to medicinal plants and herbs

9) Jog Falls: One of the highest waterfalls of India and an iconic landmark of Karnataka

10) Mirjan Fort: A 16th century fort located between Kumta and Gokarna

11) Dandeli: A pretty little village known for its diverse tribes, hornbills, wildlife and adventure sports

12) Gokarna: A coastal town known for its temples and gorgeous beaches

13) Karwar: Quiet little fishing town on the Karnataka-Goa border known for its black sandy beaches, Kali river estuary and offshore islands

14) Bilihole Falls: A hidden waterfall located amidst the untouched forests of Western Ghats in Karnataka

15) Sirsi Marikamba temple: A 17th century temple dedicated to goddess Durga and an iconic landmark in the Uttara Kannada region of Karnataka

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Bilihole Falls: Hidden Waterfall amidst the untouched forests of Western Ghats in Karnataka

It is one of the last untouched stretch of forests in the Western Ghats of Karnataka. A rich and diverse ecosystem survives here completely unaware of the human civilization living beyond their jungle. Great hornbills, leopards, macaques, langurs, king cobras and even tigers are found here. Earlier, this used to be a protected forest reserve, but due to its ecological importance, it has been added to the newly formed Kali tiger reserve. This article is about a short trek to a stunning waterfall and forest view point inside this untouched forest.

This waterfall is called Bilihole falls (some people also refer to it as Keppa Jogga falls) and it looks like the trunk of Hindu god Ganesha when you look at it from far away. Surrounding it is dense jungle that can only be visited with permission from the forest department and that too only if you are visiting for research studies (species, herbs, etc.).



The trail starts near Jajjigudde village in the Uttara Kannada region of Karnataka, meanders its way through private properties, coffee plantations and forests to reach a steep cliff drop. At the edge of this steep drop is a tree and a small flat surface from where you can catch a view of the Bilihole falls and the pristine forest. If you reach this place around sunrise or sunset, you can also spot huge groups of great hornbills flying over this pristine forest.

The photographs and the video above were taken during the monsoons and hence you cannot see the mountain ranges in the background, but if you refer to this article of mine from my winter trip here, you can see spectacular sunset shots and mist covered 6 to 7 mountain ranges of the Sahyadris one behind the other. It is quite a spectacular sight at sunset with the trunk like waterfall (you can hear it too), the floating clouds, the meandering mist, the dense green forests, the mountain ranges and the setting sun. And if you get lucky, you can spot hornbills and gaurs too.

Do remember to exercise caution here as the place is extremely slippery during the rains. If you take good care of yourself, you can peacefully enjoy one of the rare sights in the Western Ghats of Karnataka.



How to reach there:

From Sirsi, you head towards Hulekal and then towards Vanalli. From Vanalli, you turn towards Jajjigudde and about 6 kilometers after the turning, turn left into a private property. At this point, someone should guide you to the view point or you might get lost.

It is best to take with you a local person or guide for safety reasons. If you are staying at Tavarumane homestay, then Mr. Padmanabha Hegde will take you to the view point.

The nearest long distance bus station would be Sirsi. Hubli would be your nearest airport and large railway station.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Unchalli falls – A massive waterfall created by a 118 meter drop in the Aghanashini river

2) Yana rocks and caves – One of the wettest places in Karnataka, Yana is known for its twin limestone rocks that tower amidst dense green jungle

3) Vibhuti falls – A beautiful jungle waterfall with a natural swimming pool

4) Devimane ghat view point – A stunning forest and mountain panoramic view point between Sirsi and Kumta

5) Sonda mutt – One of the ashta mathas established by Sri Madhvacharya, the famous dvaita philosopher

6) Magod falls – One of the most magnificent waterfalls of Karnataka

7) Sathodi Falls – Karnataka’s prettiest jungle waterfall that is located by the Kodasalli reservoir

8) Shivapura hanging bridge – A cable suspension bridge over the Kodasalli reservoir

9) Mirjan Fort – A fort from the 16th century located between Kumta and Gokarna

10) Jog Falls – One of the tallest waterfalls of India and the pride of Karnataka

11) Gokarna – A small coastal hamlet known for its temple and beaches

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The Natural Wonder called Yana Rocks: A Drone’s Eye View

One of Karnataka state’s stunning natural wonders, the Yana rocks and caves are a treat to the eyes. Towering majestically over lush green forests of the Western Ghats, these magical rocks and caves make for great jungles treks, rock climbing expeditions and fantastic monsoon holiday destinations.

In this time of lockdown, I thought I should take you on a virtual tour to this lush wonder and give you a drone’s eye view of this mesmerizing landscape.



Best explored during the rains, Yana is a place that is a mix of nature, spirituality, religion and adventure. You should either explore the landscape on foot thus appreciating the dynamic flora and fauna of this region or embark on a road trip through the forests and many waterfalls of Uttara Kannada.



Rock climbers and adventure enthusiasts will love its steep walls and cragged surfaces. Nature lovers will love the diversity of the Western Ghats and water babies can find solace in the many waterfalls nearby, especially Vibhooti Falls that is located about 9 kms away.



And while you are in the region, do not miss out on the black beaches of Kumta, the iconic OM beach of Gokarna, the Shivapura hanging bridge, the winding roads of the Arbail ghat, the magnificent waterfalls of Unchalli, Magod and Sathodi, the many river crossings, the rich wildlife and the lush countryside.



It is one of Karnataka’s nature rich regions and deserves a full-on experience by one and all. May be, it should be in your travel bucket-list for the next long weekend from Bangalore once the lockdown is over and once things return to a state of normalcy. I hope you get to see it in the monsoons as that is my favorite season to be in this region.

Note: The drone photographs and video are courtesy of Pradeep H Gowda, a dear friend, a fellow motorcyclist and monsoon chaser.

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