Maybod: Iran’s Ancient Desert City on UNESCO’s Radar

UNESCO calls it ‘A remarkable example of viability and transmission of human being’s collective thoughts from different generations to the present one’. I am talking about the historical desert city of Maybod in the Yazd province of Iran. This ancient city that goes back to the pre-Islamic era is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site tentative list. It is known for its traditional architecture that can be seen through its ancient roads, old castles and other remnants of the historical city.



Maybod was once the capital of Iran during the Mozaffarid period and is home to Narin castle, one of the oldest castles in Iran dating back to the Sassanid era. This mud-brick fort castle standing 130 feet high from its base incorporates mud bricks of the Medes, Archaemenid and Sassanid periods. Although built some 6000 years ago, it seems to have some kind of a plumbing system built into its massive walls. One can see more examples of such water works through other buildings housing underground water systems, which is a rarity in the middle of the desert in that day and time. The Narin castle is also a great place to catch a good view of the Maybod cityscape including its brown buildings. Other noteworthy historical buildings in Maybod are Chapar khaneh, Karavansaraye Abbasi and pigeon house.

Maybod is an offbeat gem on Iran’s rich archaeological trail that deserves a place in your Iran holiday itinerary. It’s desert landscape, beautiful rustic atmosphere and rich history make for a fascinating visit. I definitely recommend a visit to Maybod even if it is just a day trip from Yazd.



How to reach there:

The nearest international airport is Shiraz, about 500 kms or 6 hours away, but the airport with the better connectivity would be Tehran international airport at 542 kms or 5 hours 45 minutes away.

The nearest large city would be Yazd, about 55 kms away and Isfahan is a 3 hour drive away.

Road travel is the best option to commute between the different cities in Iran as the road connectivity is excellent and the transportation is fast. Buses between Isfahan and Yazd and Tehran and Yazd are available at periodic intervals. Hitchhiking is common and if you have the money, you can always hire a cab or personal vehicle to explore on your own.

Train travel is a possible option, but it is very slow, unpredictable and can be avoided.



Where to stay:

If you prefer the authentic desert experience and wish to stay close to the action, there are home stays, traditional hotels and budget guest houses in Maybod.

If you prefer some creature comforts and wish for a city environment, head to Yazd.

For something more luxurious, you can try the luxurious properties at Isfahan.



Where to eat:

For simple home cooked meals, try your places of stay at Maybod and other basic restaurants.

For something more exotic and for a sweet tooth craving, head to Yazd.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Yazd: Of wind towers, zoroastrianism and a sweet tooth

2) Na’in: Gateway to the Iranian Desert

3) Verzaneh: Iran’s largest sand desert and home to some of the largest sand dunes in the world

4) Isfahan: Iran’s iconic cultural hub and half the world

5) Shiraz: One of the oldest cities of ancient Persia

6) Persepolis: Jewel of Persia

7) Kashan: A desert city known for its rich Persian history, amazing creativity and fabulous architecture

8) Kharanaq: Iran’s ancient, crumbling, abandoned and photogenic mud brick village

9) Abyaneh: Where time stands still in Iran

10) Maranjab Salt Desert: A scenic pit stop on the the ancient silk road

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Na’in: Gateway to the Iranian Desert

When people think of Iran, they think of the large square and bustling bazaars of Isfahan, the ruins of Persepolis and the tea houses of Tehran. But, when I think of Iran, I think of the desert city of Na’in, the mountain village of Abyaneh and Yazd, the city of wind towers, Zoroastrianism and the one that has a sweet tooth. I think of the rich Iranian hospitality, the beautifully woven carpets, the endless conversations had over many cups of tea, the super friendly people and the ubiquitous door knockers.



In this article, I wish to talk about Na’in, one of the cities mentioned above. Located 140 kilometres east of Isfahan, Na’in is one of those Iranian cities where it feels like time has come to a standstill. It’s citadel, it’s mud houses, its gorgeous mosques and its busy bazaars transport you to a different era.

You cannot stop admiring the door knockers on its house doors as you walk past its narrow lanes. Each door has a male and a female door knocker and they came in different shapes, sizes and designs. And as you are admiring these door knockers, you will find a hospitable local inviting you into his house or shop for a cup of tea and a lovely conversation. Na’in is famous for its gaz (a marshmellow kind of candy) and hence don’t be surprised if you are given some gaz to go with your cup of tea. Iranians love their sweets, their tea and a conversation with musafirs (travelers). As your tea keeps getting topped, they will ask you about your home country, your culture, your family and so on. Sometimes, people are so kind that they even invite you for a meal and even allow you to stay in their house. That is the heart of Iranian people for you, who treat random strangers with as much respect as they treat the almighty.



Once your belly is full of gaz and tea, you will learn that Na’in is one of the top carpet weaving destinations of Iran. Their handy knot carpets woven with extremely thin wools are of a much higher quality and much different than the rest of the carpets woven in other parts of Iran. In addition to carpets, Na’in is home to fully functional qanats (an underground aqueduct designed over 3000 years ago), an outstanding monument in Jame mosque, a pre-Islamic Narej fortress, a Pirnia traditional house and a maze of a bazaar that is connected by main alleys as well as tributary passages to centres of neighbourhoods.

The Narenj citadel is a great place for photography and the bazaar is a fabulous place for carpet shopping.

if you feel like some camping, dune bashing or dune boarding, head to the sand dunes nearby.



Naein, in spite of all its simplicity is a magical little place. Its friendly people, their hospitality, their sweets and their hand woven carpets are the icing on the cake. Time stops in this place that is the gateway to the Iranian desert. It is one of my favorite places in Iran and I recommend it with multiple thumbs up.



Best season to visit:

The winter months from October through February would be the ideal time to visit Na’in. The rest of the year would get too hot to explore the outdoors.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Tehran international airport, about 453 kms or 5 hours away.

Road connectivity to Na’in is excellent. And one can either opt for a taxi or a bus. Hitchhiking is also common in Iran. Na’in has excellent bus connectivity with Isfahan and medium connectivity with Tehran, Yazd and Kashan.

One has to hire taxis to reach the sand dunes of Verzaneh or the salt flats and caravanserai of Maranjab.



Where to stay:

Simple budget accommodation run by friendly owners can be found in Na’in.

If you wish to stay close to the salt desert, I would recommend staying at the caravanserai. The facilities are basic, but the access is excellent.

If you wish to stay close to the sand dunes, I would recommend staying at Toudesk Cho village. I stayed at Taku Taku homestay, a simple village home run by a very friendly family.

If you care for creature comforts, base yourself at one of the luxury hotels in Isfahan.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) The salt desert and caravanserai of Maranjab: A scenic pit stop on the ancient silk road

2) The rolling sand dunes of Verzaneh: One of the largest sand dunes of Iran

3) Isfahan: The cultural and bustling city of central Iran

4) The desert city of Yazd, known for its Zoroastrianism roots

5) Abyaneh: The scenic mountain village famous for its fruit orchards

6) The architectural wonder city of Kashan: Famous for its mosques, houses and gardens

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Iran’s Maranjab: A Scenic Pit Stop on Ancient Silk Road

It is one of the most beautiful desert areas of Iran with a stunning combination of massive sand dunes and long stretches of salt flats. It was an integral part of the ancient silk road and is home to a 415 year old caravanserai that used to host traders and travelers during their long and arduous journey in the years gone by. I am talking about the Maranjab desert and the Maranjab caravanserai that all visitors can experience during their Iran holiday and re-live some of the ancient silk road moments.



Even after 415 years, the Maranjab caravanserai and its fortified brick walls and watchtowers still exist in all its ancient glory. May be, Maranjab, which is absolutely in the middle of the wide desert corridor of Iran, was chosen as a location for a caravanserai in order to provide food and shelter to the tired travelers and their animals and thus keep the trade on the silk road alive and kicking. Watchtowers and fortifications were built around the caravanserai to protect the travelers from bandits. In simple words, it was an important pit stop on the ancient silk road.

What is truly awesome about the Maranjab caravanserai is that travelers can get food and shelter here even today. The facilities are simple and basic (bedding is basic and water is salty), but the experiences are priceless as the caravanserai has not seen a lot of modernization. During the day, you can go about dune surfing and off-roading in the desert, while in the cold night, you can huddle around a fire drinking tea and watching the absolutely magnificent starlit desert sky. In simple words, you can literally transport yourself 400 years back and visualize yourself as a traveler traveling on the ancient silk road and stopping at this caravanserai for some well deserved in this tough desert terrain.



Some of the top highlights of this Maranjab desert tour experience are the rolling sand dunes of Maranjab desert, the shiny white Dasht-e-Kavir salt lake (similar to White Rann of the Great Rann Of Kutch in Gujarat, India and Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia), the gorgeous shrine of Hilal Ibn Ali, the Nooshabad underground city (though it located closer to Kashan and not to Maranjab) and staying at the caravanserai. Each of these top attractions of Maranjab are located about 30 to 90 minutes from each other and can only be accessed through a 4 wheel drive and a knowledgeable local guide or driver.



If you wish to pack desert adventure and ancient history together, then Maranjab is your place. It’s amazing natural habitat of sand dunes, salt deserts and shrub forests, a 400 year old caravanserai, its importance on the ancient silk road and its beautiful traditional villages on its frills are enough and more reason for a fabulous desert holiday to Iran’s Maranjab. I would recommend this place with many thumbs up!



How to reach here:

Maranjab is located right in the middle of Qom and Kashan, though it is closer to Kashan than Qom. It is located about a few hours north of Kashan, though it takes a much longer while to explore the different attractions in this desert.

The nearest airport would be Tehran. From Tehran, you can either take a bus, train or drive to Kashan. From Kashan, you can either rent a car with a driver or go with an authorized local tour operator.



Where to stay here:

If you want a taste of history and rustic life, I would recommend staying at the Maranjab caravanserai itself. Stay is basic, but you can be in the thick of things. If you crave luxury, but wish for a caravanserai experience, then you should stay at Abouzeidabad Caravanserai hotel

If you prefer homestays, Abyaneh, Na’in and Verzaneh would have plenty of options.

If you want something more upmarket and comfortable, it is best that you stay either at Kashan or Isfahan and make day trips from there.



Important things to keep in mind:

1) Maranjab has typical desert weather. So expect it to be hot during the day and cold during the night. Make sure you carry a good pair of sunglasses, enough water with you at all times and clothes that can allow you to handle the temperature extremes.

2) Phone and GPS connectivity can be non-existent in some parts of the desert and since there is a high scope of losing your way here, it is best to go in the company of a knowledgeable local guide and also have a local desert map handy just to know your bearings.

3) Usually SUVs and 4 wheel drives are preferred on this desert terrain. Do ensure that the vehicle that you use is in decent condition and has a spare tyre for emergencies.



Nearby Tourist Attractions:

1) Verzaneh sand dunes, one of the tallest sand dunes in Iran

2) Kashan, an architectural beauty

3) The mountain village of Abyaneh, where time stands still

4) Isfahan, Iran’s most culturally rich city

5) Na’in, a beautiful city located by the desert

6) Dasht-e-Kavir, a beautiful salt desert

7) Kharanaq, a photogenic mud brick village

8) Yazd, an ancient city known for its wind towers, Zoroastrianism roots and desserts

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Persepolis: Jewel of Persia

Getting out of our mundane world is one of the best perks of traveling! Don’t you agree? And while we forget the day to day humdrum, albeit for a short while, we learn to appreciate the sheer beauty of the world around us, our rich human past and amazing stories of our evolution. I experienced one such story from our evolution at Persepolis, the capital of the mighty Persian Empire, during my backpacking holiday to Iran.



This story takes you to the time of the Archaemenid empire, the first Persian empire. The time period was around the 6th century BC, which means that I am taking you back by almost 8000 years. Founded by Cyrus the Great, this massive empire ranged all the way from the Balkans and Eastern Europe in the west to the Indus valley of the Indian subcontinent in the East. It was one of the largest kingdoms to have existed on planet earth and it was a time of absolute power and amazing riches. And it was around this time that the religion of Zoroastrianism was born.



Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of this Persian empire. It was founded by Cyrus the Great and many additions were made to the city during the reign of Darius the Great, Xerxes and Antaxerxes, the future rulers. It was neither the largest city in the empire nor was it the seat of power. Rather, it was occupied seasonally most probably to celebrate Nowruz, the Persian New Year, held at the spring equinox.



For almost 200 years, Persepolis became a place to celebrate the glory of the Persian empire. It was home to mighty gates, colossal buildings, ornate palaces, majestic throne hall, exquisite living quarters and beautiful tombs. Persepolis was as majestic a capital as there could be till Alexander the Great took over the city in 330 BC and plundered it. Around the same time, a fire is believed to have started and destroyed most of the city. And thus began the fall of this mighty capital city.



Today, tucked amidst the Zagros mountains of Southern Iran, Persepolis exists as a maze of stone columns, colossal structures and beautiful designs and bas reliefs that tell us a story of the once powerful Persian empire. Most of the city is in ruins today, but thanks to the efforts of the various archaeological communities, a lot of the ruins have been re-structured to give us an inkling of an idea about the grandeur of this historic Persian city.



A lot of movies, books, documentaries and travel stories have tried portraying the beautiful past of Persepolis, but nothing comes close to experiencing it in real. Right from the time you set your eyes on the Gate of Nations and stare in awe at the griffins and the horses, a visit to Persepolis is bound to astound you at multiple levels. The Apadana palace is the true highlight of Persepolis. This palace is a stunning mix of gargantuan size and ornate beauty. Its tall columns, oak and cedar wood beams, massive stairways and walls are full of foundation tablets of gold and silver, animal sculptures, carvings and bas reliefs.



Then there is the throne hall, the imperial treasury, the Hadish palace of Xerxes I, the council hall and various other palaces, stables and quarters. Each one of these building remnants tell you a story about the glorious past. And then overlooking all of this gorgeous city are the tombs of the Persian kings themselves where they have been resting for the past thousands of years next to their prized jewel of a city.



If you love ancient stories, are a culture or history buff or simply like to experience new places, this UNESCO World Heritage Site called Persepolis is sure to keep you riveted with deep interest. After all, it is jewel of Persia for a reason!



How to get here:

The nearest international airport would be at Shiraz. Emirates, Etihad, Air Arabia and Mahan Air connect Shiraz with the UAE and India, thus making it easy for us Indians to experience this heritage site. You can also fly into Tehran and do the road trip to Shiraz.



Where to stay:

The nearest city is Shiraz, which is located about 60 kms away. One can choose from a variety of stay options in Shiraz that caters to a wide array of budgets.



Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) The Pink Mosque is a must experience. The colors will blow your mind away

2) The various gardens of Shiraz

3) Yazd and Isfahan, if you have more time at hand

And when you are in Iran, do not miss the opportunity to experience these 5 off-beat travel experiences of Iran.

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Iran’s Architectural Wonder Kashan in Pictures

Rich Persian history, amazing creativity and fabulous architecture can be seen all across Iran. While the world over knows the architectural marvels of Isfahan, Yazd, Persepolis and Shiraz, I would like to bring to you the architectural marvels of another Iranian city, Kashan. Located in the Isfahan province and between Isfahan and Tehran, Kashan, a city that has existed from the pre-historic era, is quite similar to Rajasthan’s Jodhpur. Located by an oasis and surrounded by the central deserts of Iran, Kashan is home to beautiful mosques, intricate houses of rich merchants, amazing Persian gardens, ancient archaeological sites, super hospitable people and so much more. Here are some pictures from this architectural wonder. Hopefully, they will entice you to explore it on your next holiday to Iran.

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Above photo: The 18th century Agah Bozorg mosque that towers over the city of Kashan.



Above Photo: Stunning colors, architecture and wind towers catch your eye as soon as you enter the Agah Bozorg Mosque of Kashan.



Above Photo: The rich merchants of Kashan loved soaked in their bubble baths. And that is why they splurged on their hammams. This is inside the main hammam room of a merchant’s house.



Above Photo: Colorful glasswork that we usually see in the palaces of Rajasthan or the churches of Europe can also be seen as decorating elements in the traditional houses of Kashan. This one in particular was seen inside the Abbasian House.



Above Photo: Tea is a way of life in Iran. It is offered to all guests, it is a conversation starter and it is a great way to stay hydrated in this desert atmosphere. I spotted this local enjoying his cup of tea at the Abbasian House.



Above Photo: One of the things that capture immediate attention in Kashan’s traditional houses are its open courtyard like communal eating setup. This is one fabulous way to soak in the architecture of these gorgeous homes while you relish delicious Persian food. I can vouch from personal experience.



Above Photo: Another merchant home. Another example of richness in architecture. Created with beautiful waterways, gardens, fountains, carvings and glasswork, the Tabatabaei house is one of the more beautiful traditional houses of Kashan.



Above Photo: You are never too far away from getting to know local culture in Iran. This security guard of the Tabatanaei house entertains the guests with his music. This is a traditional flute like instrument that he can be seen playing.



Above Photo: Kashan’s architecture has to do a lot with its desert environment. Most of the larger houses and buildings have wind towers designed in them to keep the rooms cool even during the peak summer months. Clay dominates most of the construction material and colors are quite rare for the building exteriors. This is how the city looks from the top of Jalali castle.



Above Photo: A lush Persian garden in the middle of the desert, the Fin garden just outside of Kashan is a treat to the eye. Not only does it show you how to harvest natural spring water to make the desert turn green, it also packs a punch with its colors and creativity.



Above Photo:Kashan is all about its traditional houses. There is no missing even one of them as each one of them is so unique and beautiful. This is the view of the Borujerdis house courtyard that you see as you enter the premises.



Above Photo: Another set of colorful glasswork. This time on the doors and windows of Tabatabaei house in Kashan.



Above Photo: In case you are wondering how the interiors of the hammams looked like. This is how it looks. As it was a place of relaxation and may be important business meetings, it oozes luxury and creature comforts. One can get a good idea of this by looking at the very intricate carvings and paintings.



Above Photo: Natural air conditioners can be seen from the Kashan rooftops. Inverted dome with air vents or even proper wind towers, the rich merchants of Kashan certainly knew how to keep themselves and their homes cool and pleasant during the hot days.



Above Photo: This is a scene from the local bazaar of Kashan. Contiguous in nature, these bazaars were designed to stay cool and allow the visitors to shop at length and in peace. It is a potpourri of action and color, especially in the spices and herbs section.



Above Photo: These are scenes that present themselves to you as you slowly amble through the mud baked narrow lanes of Kashan. As you are not allowed to photograph the Iranian women from the front, this is a far away shot.

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