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Saturday, June 15, 2019

Who makes the best Lassi of India?

The famous Jodhpur Lassi at Shri Mishrilal Hotel, Ghanta Ghar

No one in their right mind will not like the Indian Lassi! Arguably India’s most popular and famous drink, this thick and sweet yoghurt drink that comes in many flavors and thickness can send you on a dizzy path to foodie heaven. Whether it is the traditional sweet lassi, mango lassi, dry fruit lassi, elaichi lassi, zafrani lassi or any of the many other flavors, this drink is had all through the year. Some have it in the morning on an empty stomach as a daily dose of probiotic. Some have it to beat the summer heat. And some have it to digest a heavy Indian meal. And each of them enjoy the happiness quotient that comes along with it.

Freshly made Lassi on the streets of Amritsar

But, the key question here is, where to find the best lassi of India? While there are lassi shops galore in all the towns and cities of India, not everyone gives you that foodie heaven trip. I am an extremely big fan of this sweet drink and have tried it almost in every single Indian village, town, city, highway that I have visited and where it was available.

Lassi making machine at iconic Lassiwala of Jaipur, Rajasthan

There are a few that have left a long lasting effect on me. They are:

1) The simple, but fresh and thick lassi served with no sugar early in the morning on the small bylanes of Amritsar old city. It one of the top Amritsar food experiences and is definitely my favorite for its sheer simplicity, texture and taste.

2) The divinely creamy and thick Elaichi and pista lassi of Shri Mishrilal hotel at Ghanta Ghar, Jodhpur. This lassi is literally like ice-cream and is to be had with a spoon. Goes extremely well with spicy chilli bajji and kachori. A great breakfast idea in the blue city of Jodhpur and a hot favorite for those who like their lassi rich and creamy.

3) A fresh glass of thick lassi served with malai at the iconic Lassiwala of Jaipur, one of the top foodie experiences of Jaipur.  This lassi is not as rich as the Jodhpur one, but still packs quite a punch.

4) The lassi available on the highway dhabas in Delhi, Punjab and Haryana who have their own cows. This fresh lassi goes so well with the traditional Punjabi food that these dhabas dish out.

The iconic snack of Jodhpur

Well, these are my favorite places to have the best lassi experience in India. I would love to hear your lassi experiences so that I can try them out when I visit that place next. Let’s share this love for lassi!

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Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Travel Photo of the Day: Mandore Cenotaphs, India

Mandore Cenotaphs, Rajasthan, India

The ertswhile capital of the Marwar state of Rajasthan, Mandore today is famous for its Royal Cenotaphs. This area, which is called Mandore Gardens is home to cenotaphs that look pretty much like Hindu temples. Built using red sandstone, the dewal of Maharaja Ajit Singh is the most ornate. The hall of heroes and the shrine of 3 crore gods is also special. Some parts of Mandore Garden also has islamic architecture due to the Mughal influence in the later years.

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Friday, January 15, 2016

Travel Photo of the Day: Ummaid Bhavan Palace, India

Ummaid Bhavan Palace, Jodhpur India

A great looking palace and museum from Jodhpur, my favorite city in the state of Rajasthan, which is famous all over the world for its palaces, colorful bazaars, big fat Indian weddings, great food and so much more. A part of the Ummaid Bhavan palace functions as a five star hotel. So, if you have the money to spend, you could live kings and queens or princes and princesses here. This picture is of a rare rainy day in this desert city. Don’t miss out to indulge in the Halwayi breakfast while you are here.

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Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Portrait Stories from Rajasthan

The colorful state of Rajasthan offers a lot to the traveler. It has forts, palaces, beautiful bazaars, great food and lots of history. But, I connect the most with its people. I don’t want to sound biased, but sometimes I feel that they are the most hospitable state in India. The people of Rajasthan are so very nice and so eager to help people. I have been all around the state a multitude of times and have had my best people experiences in this state. The Rajasthani people have always welcomed me with both their hands and their warm hearts.

Local musician playing his music inside Jaisalmer Fort
Story: This old man with a very kind face was sitting outside the Jaisalmer Fort and playing this traditional musical instrument (Does anyone know the name of this instrument?) He seemed to be very content and happy playing his music and did not seem to be interested in receiving any money, but when our group gave him some money, he was overjoyed.

And since I like the people of Rajasthan so much, here is a short portrait story from my recent trip to Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did while I spent time with these various personalities.

Rajsthani man with big moustache in front of his silk scarf shop at Jodhpur
Story: This Rajasthani man with the big moustache sells scarves at one of the souvenir shops in Mehrangarh Fort. He speaks French, Italian, English and Spanish fluently and is quite a good salesman. He was kind enough to give me tips on how to grow moustaches like his. He even shared some of his older photos and we shared a good laugh.

A street hawker selling peacock feathers at Jaisalmer
Story: This sardarji was selling peacock feathers in the Patwon ki Haveli campus where I spotted him. I tried engaging in a conversation with him, but he was more keen on selling his peacock feathers to me.

Flute Artist at Jaswant Thada, Jodhpur
Story: This Rajasthani man has been playing the flute for more than 35 years. I met him at Jasvant Thada in Jodhpur. His flute music echoes in the inner chamber and he charges tourists if they wish to record his music. If you just want to listen, it is free, he says.

Camel Mahout and his camel at Ossiyan, Rajasthan
Story: He is a part farmer and part camel mahout. During the tourist season, he takes his guests on camel safaris in the deserts off Ossiyan and when it is lean season, he either tills his small piece of land with his sons or does some odd jobs to make ends meet.

Rajasthani guard at Mehrangarh Fort, JodhpurRays of the setting sun on the jharokas of Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur
Story: This guard at Mehrangarh Fort was kind enough to explain me Mehrangarh’s history for more than 30 minutes. He was happy to know that I am from South India and asked me questions on how I spoke Hindi so well. His entire family is associated with the Mehrangarh Fort.

Jain priest at Jaisalmer's Jain Temple
Story: I met this Jain priest at one of the Jain temples inside the Jaisalmer Fort. He was kind enough to talk about Jainism, the temple history and to pose for me.

Local Rajasthani Woman singing at Surygarh
Story: Rajasthani women are very shy and do not like to get their photo clicked. Hence, you don’t see portraits of women in this post, but this one is the exception. I saw this local village lady at Suryagarh. She was singing folk music and her voice boomed through the courtyard.

Local guard at Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur
Story: A very kind soul who noticed me on each of my visits to Mehrangarh and on my last visit, he asked me ‘ Aap pichle do din se aah rahe hain na?’. I said ‘Yes’ and began conversing with him. We spoke about his family, his work, the history of Mehrangarh, the raptor feeding tradition at Mehrangarh and much more. It was a pleasure conversing with him.

At a traditional carpet shop in Jodhpur
Story: I was with some Vietnamese girls who wanted to buy a silk carpet as a souvenir back home and they wanted me to bargain for them. While I was talking to him, I got to understand how he made the carpets sitting there with his hands and how they are 70% silk and 30% cotton and much more. The good news was that both my Vietnamese friends bought a carpet from him making him happy.

A Rawan Hatha Street Musician from Jaisalmer
Story: I met this musician in front of the Gadisar Lake. He plays the Rawan Hatha musical instrument and is from a village in the desert outside of Jaisalmer. He even showed me his Rawan Hatha music CDs that he sells to make a living. He was even kind enough to allow me to try playing his Rawan Hatha (unfortunately, I am not good with musical instruments and couldn’t get the hang of it).

At a Jodhpuri shoe shop in Jodhpur
Story: Another multi-lingual salesman, he sells Jodhpuri shoes at the Mehrangarh Fort. He was also one of those people who noticed me coming to the fort every day for the past 3 days and was curious to know why I visited every day.

Elderly Rajasthani Gentleman and the Jaisalmer view
Story: This elderly man is a guard at the Jaisalmer Fort. He was enjoying the breeze at one of the fort windows and on seeing me asked me to enjoy the breeze too. A quiet man, he obliged me to take his photograph.

Local Rajasthani boys on a holiday to Mandore garden, near Jodhpur
Story: These kids thought I was from Africa and started to practice their English with me, but when I started conversing with them in crisp Hindi, they were surprised, but warmed up quickly and started talking to me more. Typical inquisitive Indian questions and at the end of which, they wanted me to take their group picture and I happily obliged.

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Thursday, August 14, 2014

The Famous Rajasthani Mooch

It is the famous Indian Handlebar Moustache and is the pride of the men of India and especially in the land of Rajasthan. I have tried my hand at it for many months and have to say that it requires a lot of hard work, patience and maintenance. But, when you go to Rajasthan, you almost see every man sporting this moustache. They say that it is the only thing that differentiates them from the women and they take immense pride in growing and maintaining it. I laugh at their reasoning, but admire their determination.

Rajasthani Man with big moustache at Jodhpur
If you wish to grow such a Rajasthani mooch, do not cut any of your moustache hairs, comb them sideways at least 5 times a day and keep twirling them as many times a day as you can. And if you can indulge, do use some moustache wax or gel to shape it. And remember, it takes a long time to build a quality mooch. In this case, this colourful Rajasthani man has stayed at it for close to 4 years and this is the end result. His colorful turban, his accessories and his thick mooch gives me great camera presence. Have you tried growing your mooch as yet? Have you been successful with the Indian handlebar?

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Friday, August 08, 2014

Top 10 Things to do in Jodhpur, Rajasthan

As you all know, I just returned from a fantastic backpacking trip to Jodhpur where in I got to explore most of the city, its beautiful attractions and its surrounding places. This blue city has to be one of my favorite cities of Rajasthan and the city appealed to me so deeply that I wish to return to it soon. The people are eager to help, the food is top class, the shopping avenues are many and the attractions are vibrant. Below are the top 10 things to do in the beautiful city of Jodhpur that is based on this recent experience of mine. I hope they come in handy while you plan your Jodhpur holiday.

Blue View from the Top of Mehrangarh Fort

The Blue city of Jodhpur
The Mehrangarh fort is the highlight of a Jodhpur holiday and hence features on the top of my list. One of the largest forts of India, it commands a stunning view of the entire city of Jodhpur. It is from the top of this fort that you can see the famous blue houses of the city that give the city its nickname ‘The Blue City’. The Museum, the palace and the rest of the fort also make for a great dive into the rich history of the Rathore rulers. I would recommend that you opt for an audio guide as it will help you appreciate the structure better. For a totally off-beat experience at this fort, do remember to be at the top of the fort at 3:30 pm every day as this is the time when they feed the wild kites and eagles. An ancestral tradition, this feeding of meat attracts more than 200 to 200 raptors that swoop in to catch the meat in mid air.

Mirchi Vada and Samosa at Shahi Samosa

Famous Mirchi vada and Samosa at Shahi Samosa, Jodhpur
The Halwayi tradition is very much an integral part of Jodhpur’s culture and so much so that people seem to eat their favorite snacks for breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you wish to indulge in this Halwayi tradition, do try out the iconic Mirchi Vada and Kaju Samosa at the Shahi Samosa shop that is located near the clock tower (ghanta ghar). There are no seating facilities here, but you can always see a huge crowd in front of this shop for these snacks.

Mawa Kachori at Janta Sweet Home

Beautiful play of colors inside the Durbar of Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur
In continuation with the Halwayi tradition, you should try out the super delicious and sweet Mawa Kachori at Janta Sweet Home, the most famous sweetmeat shop in Jodhpur. This dish is extremely sweet, so do plan for a sugar rush. While you are here at Janta Sweet Home, you should also try out their Special Malai Lassi that is so thick that is feels like an ice cream as you dig in with your spoon. Their Matka Rasmalai is also pretty famous here.

Walk Around Sardar Bazaar at Ghanta Ghar

Rajsthani man with big moustache in front of his silk scarf shop at Jodhpur
The Sardar Bazaar is the place where all the shopping action is. The best way to get to this place is by taking the steep walking path from Mehrangarh to the clock tower. This will take you through the blue houses, the cane workers, the painters, the pottery section, the souvenir section, the vegetable, fruit and grocery market and finally to the clock tower where the rest of the market lives. Here, you can buy handicrafts, locally made embroidered cloth, local dresses, spices, jodhpuri shoes, scarves, carpets and much more. Even if you are not into shopping, this place is ideal to soak in the vibrant atmosphere and the rich colors on display.

Dal Baati Choorma at Bhavani Dal Baati
The centrally ghanta ghar of Jodhpur
Dal Baati Choorma is one of the iconic dishes of this side of the world. A trip to Jodhpur is not complete without having a Dal Baati Choorma meal. If you prefer authentic taste and wish to eat delicious Dal Baati Choorma, try them out at the Bhavani Dal Baati restaurant. If you wish for a more authentic local experience, eat at the Baati Dal Baati restaurant, where you sit on the ground like the locals and eat in simple surroundings. There are other options around Jalori gate as well. The ideal way to eat this meal is by crushing the Baati into a powder, mixing ghee, chillies, onion and dal to it and then finally add the sweet choorma to it. Then, you can eat all of it together with a local papad. Simply delicious it is!!

Desert Safari at Ossiyan

A racing camel in the deserts of Ossiyan, Rajasthan
Jodhpur’s nearest desert getaway is Ossiyan. Located 65 kms away, this desert city offers a fantastic desert safari experience into its remote villages and across its beautiful sand dunes. It’s 9th century temple is also quite a sight and it towers over the city when you look at it from the desert. A lot of people like to go on a camel safari and stay overnight inside the desert at one of the rustic desert camps.

Jodhpuri Shoes, Carpets, Silk Scarves
Colorful Jodhpuri shoes on sale at Jodhpur, Rajasthan
The colorful markets of Jodhpur offer interesting avenues for the shopaholic to indulge in and even so for the normal tourist looking to pick up some souvenirs. The most popular souvenir here is the Jodhpuri shoes (locally called mojari) that come in a myriad of colors. Even hand made cotton and silk carpets and silk scarves are quite a rage with shoppers. Spices and other handicrafts can also be bought as souvenirs or as gift items.

Architectural Beauty of Jaswant Thada

Jodhpur's Jasvant Thada in the rains
Jaswant Thada is a beautiful white marble cenotaph built in the memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. This place can be visited on the way to or on the way back from Mehrangarh fort. From here, one can see an aerial view of one part of the Jodhpur city and also see the Mehrangarh fort towering in the distance. The lake in front of this cenotaph provides quite a surreal foreground to this monument.

Luxurious Ummaid Bhavan Palace

Tuk Tuk in front of Ummaid Bhavan Palace, Jodhpur
A luxury palace hotel, a working palace and a museum, the Ummaid Bhavan Palace is a striking landmark of the city of Jodhpur. 70% of this palace is managed by the Taj group as a luxury 5 star hotel, 10% exists as a museum for the tourists and 20% is for the royal family. As tourists, we are allowed into the museum and the hotel. In the museum, you can see artifacts from the rich royal era, interesting murals on the wall of the palace, lots of richness and the various gifts and collections of the Maharaja and his queen. And while you are here, do not miss the opportunity to see some of the rarest cars of the world in the vintage cars section.

Cenotaphs of Mandore Garden

The beautiful Mandore garden outside Jodhpur
Mandore is an ancient town, located about 9 kms from Jodhpur. Once a part of the Parihar empire, today, it is famous for its Royal cenotaphs, temples, a ruined fort and other monuments all located within a very green setting that is dubbed as the Mandore Garden. Popular with the locals especially on national holidays and weekends, this place offers a good day trip from Jodhpur.

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Thursday, August 07, 2014

Travel Photo: Colorful Rajasthan

The world knows about Rajasthan and the myriad of colors it offers. There is color everywhere. The women and their colorful dresses. The markets and even the men. The pagdi (turban) is their main colorful accessory and come with a rich dash of colors that contrast so well with their plain clothes that I sometimes wonder why we don’t wear such colorful turbans as a fashion accessory.

Rajasthani man dressed in traditional attire at Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur
In this case, I befriended this guard at the Mehrangarh Fort who was dressed in traditional attire. Not only are the people of Rajasthan colorfully dressed, they are also very cordial and hospitable. I never came across a single person who was not helpful to me. Damn! I am already missing Rajasthan!

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Tuesday, August 05, 2014

Zostel: International Quality Hostel Chain in Rajasthan

I love to stay in hostels because they offer comfortable budget accommodation through an air conditioned environment with safety lockers, great wi-fi, proximity to the tourist attractions and the ability to meet like minded travelers. On my international travels, I have stayed in umpteen hostels for a significant amount of time, but never came across good quality hostels in India till I came across Zostel.

Zostel is a hostel chain that runs hostels at Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur in Rajasthan, India’s most tourist oriented state. Zostel offers quality and facilities that are on par with hostels across the world and at great budget Indian prices. On my recent trip to Rajasthan, I managed to stay for 3 days at their hostel in Jodhpur. This review is based on this recent experience of mine.

1) Unlike a typical Indian hostel, this one comes with international quality standards. Their beds, rooms, safety lockers and washrooms are all of great quality.

2) They are air-conditioned and offer great comfort in Rajasthan’s heat.

3) They have the concept of a central meet-up area where all travelers can meet, strike interesting conversations and share their stories.

4) Zostel offers free wi-fi like most international hostels. They even offer free laptop or desktop for those travelers traveling without their gadgets.

5) The one at Jodhpur is close to the airport, while the ones at Jaipur and Udaipur are located right in the heart of the city and close to all tourist attractions. Even though the Jodhpur hostel is close to the airport, it is still close to all the tourist attractions as the city is extremely small.

6) The people running the place share the love of travel and are great company for us travelers. They make sure all our questions are answered and if not, they guide us in the right direction.

7) The hostel at Jodhpur comes with a roof top view and sit out area. Between 8 pm and 9:30 pm, one can catch a good view of the lights at Ummaid Bhavan Palace from here.

8) They also offer tailor made tours for those who want a bit of planning.

9) Their washrooms are clean, airy and come with all necessary amenities.

10) And all this costs only INR 350 per person per night, which is just USD 6, which according to me fits perfectly into the world of budget travel.

I thoroughly loved my stay at Zostel – Jodhpur and would love to stay again with them at their Udaipur and Jaipur property sometime soon. If you are a budget traveler and seek the joy of hostels, I would recommend that you give them a try.

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