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Wednesday, April 23, 2025

10 Top Lesser Known Rural Holiday Destinations of Kerala

A green shola forest view near Munnar, Kerala

There is hardly anyone who has not been smitten by the charms of Kerala. Domestic and international travellers seem to prefer planning their holidays here. But, a lot of their itinerary seems to be following the popular tourist circuit’s well beaten trails. The real authentic Kerala lies in its villages that are full of friendly people practicing their rich culture, indulging in lip smacking cuisine and living amidst pristine nature and stunning landscapes. Sustainability is a way of life here. Such rural destinations are perfect for slow relaxing holidays where you get to experience a destination rather than just visit it.

Below are ten of the top lesser known rural holiday destinations of Kerala. These places, which are low on the tourist crowds are insanely beautiful that fit perfectly with Kerala’s tagline ‘Gods Own Country’. Each of these locations offer you a chance for a wholesome holiday in Kerala. For personalized travel planning, do connect with Maya, the Kerala tourism chatbot and get all your queries answered.

1) Vattavada, Idukki District

The famous vegetable farms of Vattavada

This quiet village of Vattavada, located on the Kerala – Tamil Nadu border comprises of shola forests, tall eucalyptus trees, 6000 feet plus mountains and extremely fertile soil. In addition to surreal view points, rolling views of tea estates, gorgeous mountain lakes and dams and pristine nature, Vattavada is home to vegetable farms and fruit orchards. Such is the bountiful harvest here, that it is referred to as the vegetable and fruit basket of Munnar and the rest of the region. Vattavada is the kind of offbeat hill station where you can enjoy long walks in the nature, learn the basic tricks of vegetable and fruit farming, taste some locally grown strawberry or passion fruit wine and enjoy the local cuisine cooked using locally grown raw ingredients. This offbeat mountain holiday destination is ideal to cater to the foodie in you and the mountain air and long walks will certainly help you with the appetite.

Call to fame: Vegetable and fruit basket of Munnar

You should visit for: Strawberry farms with locally made strawberry wine, offbeat hill station, nature walks

Nearest Airport: Kochi international airport, about143 kms away

2) Achankovil, Kollam District

The walkway to Kambhavurutty Falls, Kerala

The Konni-Achankovil-Mekkarai route is one of the top motorcycling holiday destinations in Kerala. It is remote and consists of a narrow highway that passes through dense jungle, steep hairpin bends, a meandering river, many gorgeous waterfalls and an important spiritual destination. It is the kind of place where you can see elephants and other wild animals on the highway itself. It is the kind of place where any pit stop is scenic and any water body becomes ideal for a swim. It’s perennial waterfalls located in the middle of lush forests are those perfect waterfall holiday destinations with family and/or friends. This hidden gem of South Kerala is one that I would recommend to all nature loving road trippers.

Call to fame: Heavenly motorcycling route through pristine forest

You should visit for: Top motorcycling route in Kerala, forest waterfalls, a mountain temple, wildlife crossings

Nearest Airport: Thiruvananthapuram international airport, about 140 kms away

3) Kanthaloor, Idukki District

Quince farming at Kanthaloor, Kerala

Kanthaloor is a sleepy hamlet that is known for its picturesque landscapes, beautiful waterfalls and lush fruit farms. It is the only place in Kerala where apple is grown. It’s orchards are filled with everything from plum, orange, blackberry, egg fruit, strawberry, peach to passion fruit and from cabbage to cauliflower. Imagine staying in one of the fruit orchards, enjoying the local produce, breathing the cool mountain air and soaking in the overall tranquil atmosphere. For all those nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts, do not miss the opportunity to trek inside the Anaimudi Shola National Park, an evergreen forest. There is a trekking trail that connects Kanthaloor with Vattavada. It is one of the most untouched trekking trails in this part of the country. For waterfall lovers, there is Kanthaloor waterfalls, Irachil para waterfalls and Thoovanam waterfalls. Each one of these waterfalls are a sight to behold during the monsoon season.

Call to fame: Only place in Kerala where apples are grown

You should visit for: Fruit orchards, offbeat hill station, remote jungle trails inside shola forest

Nearest Airport: Kochi international airport, about 150 kms away

4) Gavi, Pathanamthitta District

Spectacular nature at Gavi, Kerala

Gavi is that ecological hotspot that offers amazing wildlife and bird watching opportunities, treks into the heart of the jungle, beautiful view points and forest camping. Located deep inside the Periyar Tiger Reserve, it is listed as one of the leading eco tourism centers in India and is definitely one of the gems in the Kerala tourism circuit. The Gavi experience begins when you take the forest road from Angamoozhy towards Kakki reservoir. Only government buses and four wheelers with approved forest permission are allowed on this road and hence you get to see nature at its pristine best here. Once you reach Gavi, you can simply be one with the tranquil environment at your tree house or at your forest camping site or you can go on jungle treks, elephant safaris, canoeing or jeep safaris. Jeep safaris allow you to cover more ground, while trekking takes you into the heart of the forest. Wild elephants, gaurs, Nilgiri Tahrs, malabar pied hornbills, kingfishers, woodpeckers and close to 200 plus varieties of birds can be spotted here. For those interested in nocturnal wildlife, night safaris are also an option here. Add to this, the many plantations here, the active involvement of the tribal people and the many panoramic view points and you have a destination that is bound to cast a magical spell on each of its visitors.

Call to fame: Evergreen paradise and a nature hotspot

You should visit for: Offbeat wildlife holiday destination, birdwatching, jungle camping

Nearest Airport: Kochi international airport, about 160 kms away

5) Marayoor, Idukki District

Stone age dolmens at Marayoor, Kerala

Marayoor is a quaint hill station in the Western Ghats that is famous for its sandalwood forests, prehistoric rock paintings and muniyaras (burial chambers) that have stood the test of time for over 12,000 years. This scenic hamlet is surrounded by sugarcane fields, waterfalls, bamboo forests, dense woodlands and tall mountains with evergreen forests. It is heady mix of history, anthropology, nature, farms, rustic atmosphere, forest and wildlife. It is kind of place where you can walk amidst the fragrant sandalwood trees and then follow it up with a sweet walk through the sugarcane fields. And then you can recharge yourself with some famous Marayoor jaggery that enjoys a GI tag. Marayoor is the ideal location for an offbeat mountain holiday where you can have diverse experiences while getting close to nature and enjoying the local art, culture and food. If you have a penchant for adventure, opt for any of the many trekking routes that take you deep into the lush evergreen shola forests and high altitude montane landscapes while getting you to close to wild animals such as the Indian gaur, the Malabar giant flying squirrel, the Nilgiri Tahr and a wide variety of birds endemic to this part of the Western Ghats.

Call to fame:
Ancient dolmens and rock paintings dating back to the stone age

You should visit for: Sandalwood forests, sugarcane fields, megalithic civilization, offbeat hill station

Nearest Airport: Kochi international airport, about 140 kms away

6) Rosemala, Kollam District

Panoramic view of the Thenmala Dam from Rosemala View Point, Kerala

Rosemala is one of the less explored eco tourism spots in Kerala. It is that gorgeous destination that is tucked amidst the tall mountains of the Western Ghats and the forests of Shendurney wildlife sanctuary. Shendurney wildlife sanctuary, a part of the larger Agastyamalai biosphere reserve is known for its medicinal forests and many herbal waterfalls and water bodies. One such water body is the Thenmala dam on the Kallada river. Rosemala is the best place to catch a spectacular view of the Thenmala dam whose waters glitter amidst the dense vegetation and the tall mountains. While the village is a mix of natural forest, rubber plantations, teak plantations and basic farmland, a little bit beyond the village and you are in the middle of virgin forests. Here, you can spot rare species of butterflies, birds, animals and fishes as you get closer to the lake. The pallivasal trek experience is surreal as it takes you to the heart of the forest and takes you to the captivating meeting place of the Umayar, Shenduriniyar and Uriliyar rivers. While you might see a few tens of people at the Rosemala view point, you will notice that during your treks, there is no one except your trekking group and the forest. Such is the remote charm of this hill station.

Call to fame:
Panoramic view point of the Thenmala dam

You should visit for: Thenmala dam view, offbeat hill station, offbeat motorcycling route in Kerala, adventurous forest treks

Nearest Airport: Thiruvananthapuram international airport, about 106 kms away

7) Mankulam and Anakulam, Idukki District

Happy Elephant family at Aanakkulam, Kerala

Mankulam and Anakulam are two forest locked villages that are nestled between the Malayattor forest, Rajamalai hills and the wide expanse of tea plantations. Anakulam is the place to be if you wish to see massive herds of wild elephants that include young calves and large tuskers. Here, these elephants have been living together with the humans for centuries and they have never got in the way of each other. The elephants are apparently attracted here due to the high salt content in the waters of the Idacholayar river. And Mankulam is the place to be to see British era hanging bridges, interact with the local tribes and learn about their culture, go on forest treks, indulge in some birdwatching, experience the local food and lifestyle and get close to gorgeous waterfalls surrounded by lush greenery. Together, Mankulam and Anakulam offer you a rural experience that is a stunning mix of dense forests, rich wildlife, rolling tea estates, rich local food and culture and lots of avenues to revel in one’s adventurous spirit. Both these places are what Munnar would have looked a century ago without the construction and the commercialization.

Call to fame: The land where wild elephants congregate in large numbers

You should visit for: Wildlife sightings, waterfalls, forest treks, tribal cultures

Nearest Airport: Kochi international airport, about 86 kms away

8) Munroe Island, Kollam District

Saambranikkodi at Munroe Island, Kerala

Munroe Island or Mundrothuruthu, is a group of eight small islets located at the confluence of the Ashtamudi lake and the Kallada river. It is a beautiful island to experience the surreal views and serene pace of village life, see coir making, fishing, prawn feeding, migratory birds, coconut farms, lagoons and mangroves from close quarters while you glide through the tranquil backwaters. The island’s landscape is dotted with coconut groves, paddy fields and traditional Kerala style ‘Tharavadu’ homes, providing a serene and idyllic setting. The best way to explore and experience this island is by foot, by bicycle and by boat or canoe. Each way of exploration provides you a different perspective of the island thus making your experience richer. At one end of the spectrum, you get to see the serene beauty of Kerala’s backwaters and at the other end of the spectrum, you get to admire its diverse flora and fauna. And in between, you get to appreciate and experience the rich cuisines, art and culture of Monroe Island. Munroe Island and its backwaters provide an experience similar to the one that Alappuzha offers, but without the high costs or the large crowds. It is more laidback and totally offbeat.

Call to fame: Offbeat backwater cruise and canoe tour

You should visit for: Backwater cruises, rich cultural heritage, birdwatching, fishing

Nearest Airport: Thiruvananthapuram international airport, about 80 kms away

9) Pampadum Shola National Park, Idukki District

The beauty of Shola Forests is unparalleled - Pampadum Shola National Park, Kerala

If you feel like listening to nature’s music and cacophony and wish to revel amidst the multiple shades of soothing green, head to Pampadum Shola National Park, Kerala’s smallest national park, but one that packs a much larger punch. Pampadum Shola national park is a gorgeous tract of ancient shola forests (montane rainforests and grasslands) that is tucked somewhere in the Western Ghats between Munnar and Kodaikanal. The only way to experience this hidden gem of Kerala is by staying inside the forest at the forest properties run by the Kerala forest department and by trekking the different trails of the forest in the company of forest guards and guides. Dense shrubs, moss, ferns, waterfalls, insects, birds of paradise, butterflies, bees, lion tailed macaques, nilgiri langurs, malabar flying squirrels, elephants, gaurs and other wildlife, leeches, exotic flowers, insectivore plants, itchy plants, herbs and many other unique species from the plant and animal kingdom can be seen at Pampadum Shola national park. It is the kind of place where you sleep to the sound of cicadas, crickets and frogs and wake up to the calls and tweets of birds. At Pampadum, you don’t have to venture far to see wildlife as their forest bungalows are literally surrounded by forests on all sides. Most wildlife, especially gaurs can be seen at a stone’s throw from the forest bungalows and huts. If you are looking for a place to leave an imprint on you, then the rainforests of Pampadum Shola national park is for you. It’s pure atmosphere is bound to rejuvenate you completely and make you ready to face the fast paced lifestyle of our cities. The nature around this national park is a blessing to mankind.

Call to fame: Kerala’s smallest national park that packs a serious punch

You should visit for: Ancient British highway between Munnar and Kodaikanal, wildlife sightings, rich flora and fauna, rainforest treks

Nearest Airport: Kochi international airport, about 132 kms away
    
10) Veliyanadu, Alappuzha District

A houseboat scene from Veliyanadu, Kuttanad, Kerala

If you are looking for a magical combination of Kerala’s serene backwaters and its authentic rural lifestyle, look no further than Veliyanadu village in the Kuttanad taluk of Alappuzha district. Veliyanadu is surrounded by lush green paddy fields, coconut groves and scenic backwaters making it quintessential part of Kerala’s scenic beauty. It is the kind of place where time stands still or crawls at most at times. Even though, there is a road connecting Veliyanadu with the rest of the state, most people use boats and ferries to reach their respective destination. Here, the life of the locals revolves around agriculture, fishing and making of toddy (palm fruit wine). Unlike the Alappuzha backwater cruise that shows you the backwaters and allows you to experience life on a houseboat, Veliyanadu allows you to experience the real rural Kerala and how its people live amidst the backwaters. If you like rural experiential holidays, Veliyanadu is the place for you. A sunrise backwater cruise, followed by lunch under a coconut tree with some fresh toddy followed by an evening fishing trip are simple joys of the life here.

Call to fame:
Scenic road criss crossing the backwaters to reach the village
You should visit for: Scenic backwaters, rustic Kerala, authentic Kerala cuisine

Nearest Airport: Kochi international airport, about 107 kms away

Note: Some of the pictures in this article have been borrowed from wikipedia.org under the creative commons license. Each photograph has been linked to its host page on wikipedia.org.

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Friday, July 05, 2024

Paddy Sowing Season at Kallidaikurichi, Tamil Nadu: A Rustic Photo Series

Paddy sowing season at Kallidaikurichi, Tamil Nadu

With the onset of the South West Monsoon, the consistent pitter patter replenishes the earth, fills up all the water bodies and allows for new life to thrive. As the Papanasam and the Manimuthar Dams get filled near my village, the irrigation canals are opened and they are brimming with water. This opening of the canal signifies the paddy sowing season. The season begins with the sowing of the paddy seeds in the nursery (this is locally referred to as ‘nattu pavaradu’). It takes about 3 to 4 weeks for the seed to germinate and ready to be planted in the paddy fields. In parallel, the paddy fields are tilled with tractors/humans/cattle and animals are allowed to graze on it. Once the canal water is opened, all these fields are irrigated. And once the paddy from the nursery is ready, they are sown into the tilled fields (this is called ‘nattu nadaradu’). For about two and a half to three months depending on the species of rice, these paddy fields will don a gorgeous green colour before turning golden just before harvest.

The best part about this paddy sowing season is that I can see all of these events unfold right from my village home terrace (it is my favourite past time with my cup of coffee in the evening) and more when I cycle across my village and the other villages. Here are some photos taken from my village home terrace. More photos to come soon. Hope you enjoy this rustic photo series of the paddy sowing season from Kallidaikurichi in rural Tamil Nadu.

Above photo: The nattu nadavu season has begun at Kallidaikurichi. The rich green in the yonder is actually the paddy nursery that is the precursor to the actual sowing. In the foreground is the irrigation canal or vaykaal that irrigates these rice fields.

Paddy sowing scenes from Kallidaikurichi village, Tamil Nadu

Above photo: The actual paddy sowing work is finished within 2 to 3 days as people want to make the best use of the bright sunshine and the canal flowing full with water.

Sowing of paddy at Kallidaikurichi village

Above photo: Most of these people working in the paddy fields work other jobs and take leave from work during the sowing and/or the harvest season. Only a select few spend full time in the paddy fields.

Women sowing paddy at Kallidiakurichi village

Above photo: The paddy sowing work is intensive and gives one a serious workout. You have to stand in ankle deep slushy water for close to 6 hours in a bent position and sowing the paddy at equal intervals. Add to it, the bright and warm sun and the insects and you have a hard days work.

Paddy sowing season - the beginning of lush views in rustic Tamil Nadu

Above photo: Just before the paddy is sown, the earth wears a dull brown colour. And as the paddy is sown, it morphs into a fresh green colour. Within a few weeks, the entire horizon is shining in gorgeous green.

Local woman walking over the Kannadigan canal bridge at Kallidaikurichi village

Above photo: This is the Kannadigan canal that people use to access their paddy fields. During sowing and harvest season, people and tractors can be seen buzzing on this route. On other days, you will the locals who are heading to the Thamirabharani river for a bath and the farmers who have to access their farms for spraying pesticide or for watering their fields using the sluice gates from the canal.

Paddy sowing season - Kallidaikurichi, Tamil Nadu

Above photo: Along with paddy, some farmers also grow banana and some tubers. Usually, they plant such crops during the dry season. During the wet season, they try to plant as much paddy as possible.

Local scenes from Kallidaikurichi village Kannadigan canal

Above photo: Looking towards West, you can see the tall mountains of the Western Ghats. The Manimuthar and the Papanasam ranges of the Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve fall in the West. Kallidaikurichi is surrounded by these mountains on the south, west and a little bit of the north. This canal begins at the Kallidaikurichi anaicut where the Thamirabharani and the Manimuthar rivers join.

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Monday, January 22, 2024

Festival of Thiruvathirai from a Traditional Tamil Nadu Village: A Photo Series

Lord Natarajar on Goratham takes to the streets of Kallidaikurichi on Thiruvatharai Festival

The festival of Thiruvathirai celebrates the birthday of Lord Natarajar (the dancing form of Lord Shiva). The festival is celebrated in the Margazhi Tamil month (December 15 to January 14) every year. It is a 10 day celebration that culminates on the full moon day (pournamasya) in the Margazhi month and that also happens to be the day when the moon is transiting through the Ardra nakshatra, the favourite nakshatra of Lord Shiva. During the first 9 days, rudra homam and other yagnam are done at the temple and each day the god and his consorts are decorated and taken to the streets on different vehicles (vahanam). On the final day of Thiruvathirai, festivities begin at 4 AM. All the temple gods are bathed in different spices, aromatic herbs and milk. Then, they are decorated. Then, the action shifts to a separate room in the temple, where Lord Natarajar and his consorts are given abhishekham, alangaram and maha mangalarti. The, they are taken to the streets in a large rath and they stop in front of each house so that the people of that house can give their offerings to the lord (fruits, coconut, vastram (clothes), betel leaves, etc.) and in return receive prasadam and the lord’s blessings. Somewhere during this rath yatra, the lord enacts a tandav (cosmic dance). The whole 10 days of this festival is full of intricate rituals, pomp, colour and glamour.

The cosmic dance of Shiva represents five activities – creation, protection, destruction, embodiment and release. In essence, it represents the continuous cycle of creation and destruction. This cosmic dance takes place in every particle and is the source of all energy. Thiruvathirai festival celebrates this ecstatic dance of Lord Shiva.

Kali and Thalagam is the main food offered to the lord on the festival day and it is later enjoyed by the devotees. Kali is prepared using rice, jaggery, moong dal, coconut and ghee. Thalagam is a vegetable broth that is prepared with the following vegetables – pumpkin, ash gourd, broad beans, sweet potato, potato, brinjal, colacasia, yam and plantain.

I got to experience all of this for the entire duration of the 10 day festival at the Chidambareswarar temple in the village of Kallidaikurichi in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu. This village nestled at the foot of the Western Ghats offers you a traditional experience of this fairly lesser known festival. I hope you can enjoy some flavour of these 10 festive days through this photo series. Detailed articles will follow soon.

Above photo: Lord Natarajar is taken on a goratham through the agraharam streets of Kallidaikurichi village. This is the only time during the festival that the lord graces his presence during the day. During this rath yatra, Lord Natarajar also enacts his tandav nach or cosmic dance by doing three fast rounds at the junction of two streets.

Lord Shiva on Vrishabha vahanam - Thiruvatharai festival, Kallidaikurichi

Above photo: Lord Natarajar takes to the streets of Kallidaikurichi on his favourite vrishabha vahanam (vehicle of the bull). Every evening at around 6 PM, the lord takes to the streets of the Kallidaikurichi village on the first 9 days of the festival.

Lord Shiva as Ganganadharanathar - Thiruvatharai Festival, Kallidaikurichi

Above photo: This is the final evening ratham where Lord Natarajar poses as Ganganadhanathar where he carries all the tools required for carrying out daily work and he comes along with a small vessel seeking alms from his devotees. This also happens to be the biggest evening ratham.

Beautiful Lord Natarajar Statue at Chidambareswarar Temple, Kallidaikurichi

Above photo: Lord Natarajar at Chidambareswarar temple is all beautifully decked on the day of Thiruvathirai. As Lord Natarajar was born on this day, he is also known as Athiraiyan after the star on which he was born.

Lord Natarajar and his consorts all decked up on Thiruvatharai Festival Day

Above photo: Lord Natarajar and his consorts after the abhishekham and alangaram on Thiruvathirai festival day. Literary and historical evidence in the form of stone inscriptions state that the festival has been celebrated on this day for more than 1500 years.

Getting the Maha Mangalarti ready on Thiruvatharai festival day at Chidambareswarar Temple, Kallidaikurichi

Above photo: Lighting the lamps for the Mahamangalarti. Attending this festival in a small village temple allows you to see and understand all the things that go behind the scenes. Such things get missed when you are a bigger temple due to larger crowds and more noise.

All the powders kept reading for the abhishekham and bathing the gods

Above photo: Different spices, aromatic herbs and cooling powders are added to the water prior to bathing the gods. Each of these powders make the bathing process a sight o behold as these rich colours perfectly contrast the pancha loha utsava moorthy or the black statues in the temple.

Lord Natarajar in Goratham takes to the streets of Kallidaikurichi on Thiruvatharai Festival

Above photo: On Thiruvathirai day, Lord Natarajar has left the temple premises on his goratham. This big rath needs a lot of people power and coordination as it makes its way through the streets of Kallidaikurichi agraharam.

Goddess Sivagami decked up in dry fruits on Thiruvatharai Festival evening

Above photo: Goddess Sivagami is decked up beautifully with dry fruits, raisins, turmeric and flowers. Her face and is annointed with turmeric.Her body is made up of almonds and cashews. Her bindi, eyes, and crown (kreedam) is made of black raisins. Her ear rings and other decorative jewellery are made up of dry figs. This was all done by a skilled artisan from a nearby village.

Beautifully decked Lord Natarajar in Goratham on Thiruvatharai Festival

Above photo: The beautifully decked up ratham of Lord Shiva. Once upon a time, it was pulled by bulls and hence its name ‘gau ratham’. Today, there are no bulls, but the ratham is pulled by humans. It is still called gau-ratham or goratham and the sight of Lord Natarajar on the goratham is a highly anticipated event of the year for the people of Kallidaikurichi village.

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Thursday, November 30, 2023

Rustic Nature Views from my Village Home

Evening scenes from my village home terrace

It is that time of the year when the North East monsoon is in full effect at my village. The village and its surroundings are dressed up in lush green. The dams are getting full. The waterfalls are gushing with water and the rivers and canals have swollen in size. And you almost always wake up to the blissful cacophony of birds and that includes a few peacocks that have made my terrace and my neighbour’s terraces as its home.

When we get our North East monsoon rains, it almost always pours and getting out in the rains is tough, though the views are surreal. Sometimes, I did get drenched in the rains and ended up catching a cold. Unlike the South West monsoon, the rains of the North East monsoon are a bit cooler and it is best to avoid getting wet in the rains.

I thought why not share these village scenes with you during the monsoon season. So here goes the rustic nature views from my village home as promised in my earlier article about me moving my base to the village of Kallidaikurichi in South Tamil Nadu. More pictures and stories in my subsequent articles.

Above photo: This view from my terrace shows you the Chidambareswar Shiva temple, the Kannadigan canal (we call it vaykaal in the local parlance), the paddy fields and the cloud covered Western Ghats in the background along with the golden colours of sunset.

Golden Paddyfields of Kallidaikurichi

Above photo: Paddy turns golden. The main crop grown here, these paddy fields are getting ready for harvest. You can see the Western Ghat mountain ranges in the background.

Lush fields seen from my terrace at Kallidaikurichi

Above photo: Gorgeous green view of paddy fields, coconut trees, Western Ghat mountains and the town of Ambasamudram in the yonder.

Peacock at my village home garden

Above photo: A peacock struts its stuff at my home garden. He is a daily visitor and I almost always wake up to his calls.

Lush paddyfields seen from my village home terrace

Above photo: My terrace offers a 230 degree view of the mountains, views of the Kannadigan canal, the paddy fields, trees in the gardens of my neighbours, the agraharam streets, the local temples and more.

Sunset at Kallidaikurichi - Western Ghats in the background and peacock in the foreground

Above photo: This is a sunset view from my top terrace. The Western Ghats of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve are in the West, the terraces of my neighbours are in the foreground and somewhere between the two is this peacock that climbs to a high point every evening

The evening golden hour view of the canal and the paddyfields at my village

Above photo: This view is from the back of my village home. My home back door opens into the canal and behind that is the paddy field that is bathed in the golden rays of the evening sun. Further beyond that is the Thamirabharani river, which is not visible in this photo. And further beyond that is the village of Ambasamudram, which is visible through some tiny buildings.

The road connecting Kallidaikurichi with the Thamirabharani river

Above photo: This is the concrete road that connects my village home with the Thamirabharani river. To your left and right are swaying golden paddy fields and surrounding you on three sides are the tall mountains of the Western Ghats, especially the ones in the Manimuthar and Papanasam range.

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Friday, October 20, 2023

Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand Cultural Spectacle in Rural Tamil Nadu

The Great Rath Yatra of Kallidaikurichi makes its way through the agraharam streets

The Rath Yatra or the Chariot Festival is one of the best temple traditions to see in India. The Rath Yatra is actually the main event of this festival and there are key events that precede and succeed this temple chariot festival. I got to see one grand cultural spectacle in entirety at a traditional village in rural Tamil Nadu. This is the temple chariot festival of Kallidaikurichi’s Adi Varaha Perumal temple that spans 9 days and is locally called as Brahmotsavam.



Held in the Tamil month of Chithirai (April 14 to May 15), the annual festival of Brahmotsavam is the grandest festival of the temple and the entire temple and the agraharam streets surrounding the temple wear a festive look for 9 days. This Brahmotsavam is a great program of festivals extending over nine days. During this period, every morning and evening, Lord Adi Varaha perumal is taken out seated on a huge vehicle and carried through the different agraharam streets of Kallidaikurichi.

Big Rath Yatra of Kallidaikurichi seen from the top of my home's terrace

The commencement of the utsavam is marked by a ceremony called the Dhwajarohanam, or the hoisting of the flag. Prior to every start, holy water from the nearby Thamirabharani river is brought to the temple for all ablution rituals. This is followed by Sankalpam (holy declaration) , abhishekham (holy bathing), alangaram (holy decoration) and vahana seva. In this vahana seva, the lord is taken in a procession around the streets of Kallidaikurichi on different vahanas (vehicles). Each vahana has its own significance and conveys the lord’s message in its own way.



From the first day of the Brahmotsavam to the ninth day, the lord takes to the different streets of Kallidaikurichi every morning and evening in his different vahanams. Below is a day by day breakdown of the different vahanams and their true meaning. As the lord visits each street in his different vahanams, the devotees adorn the fronts of their homes with colourful homams and offer coconuts, fruits and betel leaves to the lord while admiring his new look and seeking his blessings.

Day 1: Sesha vahanam

The meaning of Sesha is ‘to serve’. Adi Sesha is a thousand-headed serpent, on whom Lord Maha Vishnu rests in his abode, Vaikuntam.

Day 2: Hamsa vahanam

Hamsa or Swan means ‘pure’. Hamsa is believed to have a high intellectual capability, and can distinguish the good from bad. It is for this very reason that Lord Brahma uses Hamsa not only as his vehicle, but also to chant the vedas (The Vedas are believed to have emanated from the soul of Vishnu).

Night 2: Aswa vahanam

Horses form one of the four wings (ratha, gaja, turanga and pada) of the military forces in the ancient times. Aswam, a symbol of energy, means ‘one who runs fast). Lord Vishnu travels on a horse when he goes for paruveta. According to Hindu mythology, the horse was born along with Sri Mahalakshmi, Airavatham and Amritham during Sheerasagaramadhanam.

Day 3: Simha vahanam

Simha (lion) is a symbol of regality and power. According to the Bhagavad Gita, the lord is the Simha among animals (mriganamcha mrigandroham). The Lord is also called Hari (which in turn means Simha) and Hari sits on Simha. In other words, we have the phenomenon of the Lord sitting on himself.

Night 3: Mutayalapandiri vahanam

In the night Oonjal seva is conducted. The deities then ride under a pearl canopy. Mutyam (pearl) is a symbol of purity and royalty.

Day 4: Kalpavriksha vahanam

Kalpavriksham is a tree that is believed to grant boons and fulfil wishes. The vehicle shaped like the Kalpavriksham signifies that the Lord grants boons and fulfils the wishes of his devotees.

Night 4: Sarvabhoopala vahanam

Sarvabhoopala means ‘all the kings of mother earth’. According to the Hindu religion, kings, like Lord Vishnu, should always protect their people (na vishnuhu prithivi patihi).

The beautifully decorated rath during Kallidaikurichi Brahmotsavam

Day 5: Mohini Avatarotsavam on palaku (palanquin)

According to legend, the devatas and asuras performed Ksheerasagaramandhanam that resulted in amrit (nectar which when consumed grants immortality) and other sacred qualities. The devatas and the asuras fought for the possession of the Amrit. Lord Vishnu then assumed the form of Mohini (a beautiful woman) and procured the Amrit for the devatas.

Night 5: Garuda vahanam

According to the ancient Hindu texts, Garuda, the king of birds, is a replica of the Vedas (vedatma vihamgeswara), while Lord Vishnu is the God of the Vedas. Therefore, the lord sees himself in Garuda. In the Vaishnava Puranas, Garuda is called periyatiruvadi, meaning the first devotee. Therefore, Lord Vishnu selected Garuda as his vehicle for the most important day of the Brahmotsavam. Garuda vahanam is the greatest of all the vahanams.

Day 6: Hanumad vahanam

Hanuman is one of the greatest devotees of Sri Rama, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Hanuman served the lord so faithfully that even the lord could not thank Hanuman enough. Devotees believe that they are indeed blessed if they catch a glimpse of the Lord on Hanumad vahanam.

Night 6: Gaja vahanam

Gajam (elephant) is also called the samajam (born from Sama Veda). It symbolizes wealth (gajamtam aishvaryam). It also symbolizes the Airavatam – the vehicle of Indra, the head of the heavens in Hindu mythology). It can also be attributed to the elephant in Gajendramoksham (story from Mahabhaghavatam), which is saved from a crocodile by Lord Vishnu.

Day 7: Suryaprabha vahanam

Surya (the Sun), the son of Aditi, is another form of Lord Vishnu (Surya Narayana). Hindu mythology supports the heliocentric theory and believes that Lord Vishnu is the centre of the universe (dhyassada savitrumandala madhyavarthi).

Night 7: Chandraprabha vahanam

Chandra, means the Moon, which is considered cool and pleasant. According to Hindu mythology, Chandra is the commander of the mind (chandrama manaso jataha). He is also the king of aushadham (medicine). It is believed that riding in the Chandraprabha vahanam is a soothing experience for the lord. The Lord’s contentment will bring peace to devotees’ minds and result in a good crop.



Day 8: Big Rath Yatra

On the penultimate day, Rathotsavam is celebrated, in which the Lord is seated in a ratham (chariot) and taken in a procession in the morning. The route taken by the Lord is called the Rathaveedhi and it does a circumambulation of the Adi Varaha Perumal temple. Tens of thousands of devotees come early in the morning to offer their prayers to the lord and then hold on to the chains of the chariot to pull it through the Rathaveedhi. It is believed that those who witness Rathotsavam will not be reborn (rathotsavam kesavam dristva punarjanma na vidyate).

The idols of Daruka (the charioteer of Lord Sri Krishna) and the four horses (Saibhyam, Sugreevam, Meghapushpam and Valahakam) are placed before the decorated idols of the Lord and his consorts. This symbolizes that the lord’s charioteer is driving the chariot.

As the Ratham goes around the Rathaveedhi, one can hear chants of ‘Govinda! Govinda! and Adi Varaha! Adia Varaha!. The energy is high and devotees offer food and drinks to the people pulling the chariot. Ambulances and police are on standby in case of any emergencies. It takes close to three hours for the Rathotsavam from start of its journey to end. People from nearby villages, nearby cities and even families of people hailing from Kallidaikurichi, but living all over the world, arrive to see this Rathotsavam from close quarters. The Ratha is colourful, the energy is infectious and the festival a grand cultural spectacle.

In the evening, the lord and his consorts are taken back into the temple amidst full fanfare.

Day 9: Last Day

On the last day, Pallaki seva and Chakrasnanam mahotsavam is performed in the morning. Water from the Thamirabharani river is brought to the temple and the processional idols are bathed with it. Abhisekham, alangaram and mahamangalarti is done. Then the garuda flag is lowered. This signifies the end of the Brahmotsavam festival.


The Kallidaikurichi periya ratham pulled by the devotees

It will be a dream come true if you can experience all the nine days of the Brahmotsavam up close. The rich heritage, the amazing culture, the colourful vehicles, the powerful hymns and the infectious energy can all be experienced at once. And to top it all, you get to seek the lord’s blessings on all the days. If you cannot attend all days, then you should definitely make time for the Big Rath Yatra or the Rathotsavam, the grand annual festival of the Adi Varaha Perumal temple.



How to reach there:

The nearest airport would be Tuticorin airport, located 75 kilometres away. Tuticorin has daily flights connecting it with Bangalore and Chennai. The other nearest airports are Madurai (180 kms away) and Thiruvananthapuram (140 kms away).

The nearest large railway station is Tirunelveli junction, which is well connected with the rest of the country. The nearest railway station is Kallidaikurichi itself, but only local passenger trains stop here.

The nearest large bus station is Tirunelveli. Regular buses ply between Tirunelveli and Kallidaikurichi throughout the day and night. Kallidaikurichi is 35 kms from Tirunelveli and a typical bus ride takes about 60 to 70 minutes.

Lord Vishnu on elephant vahanam - Adi Varaha Perumal Koil Brahmotsavam

When does this festival happen:

The Adi Varaha temple chariot festival takes place in the Chithirai month (between April 14 and May 15). The festivities span 10-12 days, with each day marked for a different activity. The big rath yatra takes place on the final day of all the festivities.

Adi Varaha Perumal Koil Brahmotsavam Rath Yatra, Kallidaikurichi

Where to stay:

Kallidaikurichi is the kind of place where you should stay at one of the agraharam homes. It will allow you to experience the true culture of this village. You could either stay with any of your local friends in their homes, at any local guest houses or at airbnbs.

If you prefer hotels, you can try the modest Bhaskar Lodge at Kallidaikurichi and the slightly better Hotel Ambai Grand at Ambasamudram. For higher quality hotels, you will have to head to Tirunelveli, about 35 kms away.

If you prefer staying in nature, try any of the forest bungalows located inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve or the farm stays or resorts near Courtallam (50 kms away).

Perumal returning to the temple after the Great Rath Yatra of Kallidaikurichi

Where to eat:

Kallidaikurichi has a few places to eat like Kannan mess where you can find tiffin items like idli, vada and dosa. For something more elaborate, try Hotel Ramanas or Hotel Gauri Shankar at Ambasamudram, two kilometers away.

If you are staying at a guest house with an in-house kitchen, then you are all set for food.

If you are staying at a house or in an Airbnb, you can try the meals and tiffin items of Varaha mess or Delhi mama. They offer a wide variety of choices and food is usually delivered to your door step.

The great Rath Yatra of Kallidaikurichi culminates the 10 day Brahmotsavam

Other famous festivals to see at Kallidaikurichi:

1) Garuda Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi

2) Maha Shivaratri

3) Karthigai Deepam

4) Pongal

5) Thiruvatharai

Kallidaikurichi Rath Yatra nearing the end of its journey

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Kallidaikurichi to Manimuthar Dam: A top scenic and rustic cycling route

2) Thamirabharani river at Kallidaikurichi: A great Western Ghat river to take a refreshing bath

3) The hidden gem called Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve

4) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the Saaral season

5) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature

6) 1000 year old Papanasathar Temple at Papanasam: Where you can wash all your sins away

7) Manjolai: The offbeat hill station of Tamil Nadu

8) Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy Temple: Magnificent 10th century temple with a Ashtanga vimana

10 days of Brahmotsavam culminates with this Big Rath yatra taking to the streets of Kallidaikurichi

9) Sivasailam temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats

10) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East monsoon in India

11) Karaiyar Dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s Deep South

12) Courtallam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu

13) 10th century Kailasanathar temple at Brahmadesam

14) 10th century Valiswara temple at Thiruvaleeswaram

15) Manimuthar Falls: A great forest waterfall

16) Agastyar Falls: A great waterfall to bathe in the Western Ghats

17) Paana Theertham Falls: A hidden waterfall gem of Tamil Nadu

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