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Monday, October 05, 2020

Kavaledurga Fort: 9th century historical trekking destination nestled in the lap of the Western Ghats

Surreal Kavaledurga Fort Top view

It is a slice of forgotten history amidst the forests of the Western Ghats of Karnataka. From its top point, it offers a stunning 360 degree panorama of the lush greens of the Western Ghats, its rolling hills and its various water bodies. I am talking about the 9th century Kavaledurga Fort, a multi level fort with strong fortifications, palaces, temples and that makes for a fabulous monsoon trekking destination in the Uttara Kannada region of Karnataka.



The last capital of the Keladi kingdom, the Kavaledurga fort was built in the 9th century and later renovated in the 14th century. It was a stronghold of the Nayakas of Keladi, who managed the land initially for the Vijayanagara kings and later managed it independently after the fall of the Vijayanagara kingdom. It took prominence in the 16th century under the rule of Venkatappa Nayaka who fortified the place, added a palace, temples, matha, granary, treasury, stables and ponds.

Palace ruins inside  Kavaledurga Fort

Right from the time you buy your parking ticket and walk through the narrow mud trail flanked by lush green paddy fields on both sides, you cannot stop but wonder about the size of this fort and appreciate the nature surrounding it. A wide and steep cobbled stone path leads you to the main door and that’s where the action begins. The cobbled path is wide so may be elephants used to carry stuff up to the palace. Today, there are no elephants here, but there are gorgeous views that you can soak in while you catch your breath on this steep incline. Once you enter the main doorway, there are other mini doorways that lead you to the Kashi Vishwanath temple and Lakshmi Narayana temple. These temples are defunct and mostly in ruins. You can see the structures and may be a Nandi or other statues strewn around.

Kavaledurga Fort pathway

Now, the wide cobbled pathways give way to green fields and more gateways. Past this gateway and in the fourth level of this fort lies the ruins of a palace, which in its hey days used to consists of a durbar hall, a kitchen, bedroom and bathrooms. Stepwells have been found here, which shows that they had water storage and management in those days here. Water sewerage lines have also been found here. Post the ruins of the palace lies dense vegetation and it might look like the end of the trail, but this is where the best part of the fort lies. If you look closer into this dense vegetation, you will discover an extremely steep flight of stone steps that have been completely beaten down by the sun and the rains. As you huff and pant to the top and 5th level of the fort, you will be greeted by possibly some of the best views in the Western Ghats.

The green expanse inside Kavaledurga Fort

Coupled with a stiff breeze, this view of the backwaters of the Varahi and Mani reservoirs, the rolling hills of the Sahyadris and the green carpet totally makes up for the arduous climb to the fort top. There is also a smaller temple located at the top. Called Shikareshwara, this happens to be the highest point in the fort and it offers a 360 degree view of the entire landscape that includes the backwater views, the Kashi Vishwanath temple and fort views, the village views and the entire view of the forest floor below. They say sunsets here are a specialty and offer surreal views during the winter months.

Hiking to the top of Kavaledurga Fort

A highly recommended monsoon trekking destination in the Western Ghats of Karnataka, Kavaledurga Fort would also appeal to history lovers, nature lovers and those looking for a relaxed getaway amidst pristine nature. I am sure it would look fabulous even during winter and spring, but I visited it during the rains and I felt the entire trekking experience to be magical. If you are looking for a historical trekking destination in Karnataka, this place should certainly feature in your top list. I loved its diversity, terrain and views. And I am sure you would too!

Trail through paddy fields to Kavaledurga Fort, Karnataka

Best season to visit:

The monsoons are the best time to visit if you wish for the lush green experience and if you like the idea of a monsoon trek.

The winter months would be a great time to visit for spectacular sunsets.

Summers can be best avoided as the steep climb in the heat can be extremely tiring.

My personal favorite is the monsoon season.

The doorway that leads into Kavaledurga Fort premises

How to reach there:

Kavaledurga fort is located on the highway between Mastikatte and Teerthahalli. If you are traveling from the coast, you will either take the Hulikal ghat and turn right at Mastikatte towards Teertahalli or you will take the Agumbe ghat and turn left towards Kavaledurga on the Agumbe –Teerthahalli road. If you are traveling from Sagara, you can take the route via Mastikatte and if you are traveling from Shimoga, you can take the route via Teertahalli.

The nearest airport would be Mangalore international airport, about 133 kms away (3 and a half hours one way journey).

The nearest railway stations would be Kundapura (70 kms away), Shimoga (80 kms away) and Udupi (95 kms away).

Public transportation will not take you all the way till Kavaledurga Fort, but it will certainly take you till Shimoga, Teerthahalli, Agumbe, Kundapur or Udupi.

Kavaledurga Fort main entrance

Where to stay:

If you prefer homestays, try the ones in and around Agumbe, Sringeri or Teerthahalli.

If you prefer beach resorts, try the beaches near Udupi or near Maravanthe.

If you prefer larger hotels, try Udupi, Shimoga, Mangalore and Kundapur.

The trail through dense foliage that leads to the top of Kavaledurga Fort

Where to eat:

If coffee, tea and/or light snacks are on your mind, the parking lot in front of Kavaledurga Fort have two shops that can offer you a limited choice of beverages and packaged snacks.

If you want to find a decent restaurant where you can find good local food, the hotels at Maskikatte and Teerthahalli would be your best bet.

If you want something extraordinary, you should try the bigger hotels in Shimoga or in Udupi, but they will be a bit far away from Kavaledurga Fort.

Varahi reservoir as seen from the top of Kavaledurga Fort

Things required for this trek:

1) A good pair of walking shoes or boots to give you enough traction on slippery surfaces

2) An attentive eye to make sure leeches don’t climb up your shoes. This is mainly during the monsoons and during the rains

3) A bottle of water or two to stay hydrated

4) Some snacks or high energy bars in case you plan to stay on the top for a while. There is absolutely no food or water available once you cross the parking lot

5) A pair of sunglasses if you don’t like the bright sun hitting your eyes

6) A good camera to capture the beauty of this stunning landscape

Spectacular view from the top of Kavaledurga Fort, Karnataka

Approximate time taken for the trek:

The entire return journey from the parking lot would be roughly four kilometers and it should take you about two to two and a half hours for the entire journey. The ascent is steep and will leave you gasping for breath. Thankfully, the views are so good that you will want to stop and click pictures. While, the ascent is mostly steep gradient till you reach the palace section, it turns into steep rock cut steps post that. And these are a beast, both to climb up and down. Most of the trail is under the sun, so do remember to carry a bottle or two of water with you. The terrain is very slippery during the rains. Do exercise caution.

Ruins of Kavaledurga temples and the surrounding green landscape

Other trekking destinations nearby:

1) Narasimha Parvatha, a rainforest trek connecting Sringeri with Agumbe and that takes you to Barkana Falls, pristine rainforest and more

2) Kodachadri, a forest trek that takes you through Mookambike wildlife sanctuary and takes you to the top of Kodachadri mountain where Adi Shankaracharya had done penance. This place also offers stunning views of the Linganamakki reservoir

3) Kudlu Teertha Falls, a trek through the forests of Someshwara wildlife sanctuary that takes you to the pristine Kudlu Teertha waterfalls

4) Vanakebe Falls, a trek near Agumbe that takes you to the top of Vanakebe Falls and that provides a view of the rainforest from above

5) Jogigundi Falls, a trek that leads you to a cave waterfall near Agumbe

The ancient cobbled path leading to Kavaledurga Fort, Karnataka

Other nearby tourist attractions:

1) Shivappa Nayaka fort or Nagara Fort, a fort from the 17th century that is surrounded by the forests of the Western Ghats

2) Talasi Abbi Falls, a hidden waterfall surrounded by lush green forests of the Western Ghats

3) Hulikal ghat and Hulikal Falls, one of the wettest regions of Karnataka

4) Kunchikal Falls, one of the tallest waterfalls of India

5) The rainforest village of Agumbe that is known for its sunset points, waterfall treks and king cobras

6) 8th century Sringeri Sharadamba temple that is located by the banks of the river Tungabhadra

7) Kollur Mookambika temple, an iconic 8th century temple surrounded by the forests of the Western Ghats and that provides a view of the Kodachadri peak

8) Thombattu Falls, a wide waterfall located near Hosangadi

9) Bhadra tiger reserve, a fabulous place to see river terns, tigers, leopards and many other wild animal and bird species

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Friday, May 29, 2020

5 Best Treks For Beginners In Uttarakhand

Best Treks for Beginners in Uttarakhand

In all probability, you might have heard of the iconic band 'The Beatles' and even heard their music. But you might be surprised to know they visited Uttarakhand, dubbed as the 'Land of God', to find some creative inspiration!

Well, it is not tough to gauge why they conceived Uttarakhand as a source to get their creative juices flowing. The sprawling Himalayas, dense wood, whirlwind of flora and fauna, and lastly, the treks, everything for you to delve into your creative perfection away from the noise.

Hill stations like Nainital, Mussoorie, Auli and Dehradun have always been pulling in people across the globe. The trekking enthusiasts have more reasons to visit Uttarakhand as the trails of some of the famous treks lead to this place.

We will be talking about some of them today.

1) Nag Tibba - Appreciate Nature’s Mastery

Sunset from Nag Tibba trek

Best time to visit:
Winters - October to December / Summer - April to June

Duration of Trek: 7 hours for a 10 km trek from the base camp to the hilltop

Level of difficulty: Relatively easy

Each trek takes hours of effort to get a sight of nature's brilliance forming indelible moments. Nag Tibba provides sight of nature’s mastery, but with minimum sweat work. It is an ideal weekend trek that can aptly compensate for the Himalayan trek you have been planning for months.

The trail cuts its way through the grass cover, dense jungle and heritage sites. Thus, all the way, you have something pushing you forward when you are exhausted. At the top, you have the prize waiting, a 100-degree view of the snow-capped Himalayan range, Bandarpoonch and Kala Nag peak. The sight of
Kedarnath peak in the North would itself be the sole motivator of the trek.

2) Har Ki Doon - Encounter Rare Fauna and Floor

Har Ki Doon Trek, Uttarakhand

Best time to visit:
Summer - April to June / Autumn - September to December.

Duration of Trek: Total 47 km can be covered in 6-7 days.

Level of difficulty: Moderately difficult

This trek is a part of a common folklore tale and stretches over 44 km. The highest point in the trek stands at 14,000 ft. The mesmerising views of the nearby mountain ranges in both summers and winters are a sight to behold.

The beauty of Har Ki Dun trek lies not just at the summit, the trail itself takes you through a journey in time with small settlements formed a hundred or even some thousand years ago. Amidst the woods, you might find some rare avian life along with other forms of wildlife.

This place is known for its frequent rains and most of it is concentrated in summers. The hide and seek between the sun and rain-filled clouds ready to burst make the trek even more satisfactory. But you must be properly equipped to tackle such situations.

3) Valley of Flowers – Trek amidst Nature’s Vibrant Colors

Scenic treks of Uttarakhand

Best time to visit:
July to August, the time when the flowers are in full bloom

Duration of Trek: About 6 days to complete the trek

Level of difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Close your eyes and imagine yourself standing amid more than 600 floral species, surrounded by tall mountains. Welcome, you are in a Valley of Flowers, as listed in UNESCO world heritage sites.

This place is a paradise for people who are enthralled by nature and love flowers. Not just the floral life form that is enticing here, a few kilometers into the wood and you might spot a musk deer, black bears of Asian origin, blue sheep and many other wildlife species.

As a tourer, you will find many reasons that prove why this place is listed in the UNESCO records.

4) Auli – Winter Trekking Destination

Those snow capped mountain views during a trek in Uttarakhand

Best time to visit:
November to March

Duration of Trek: 3 hours, covering 5-6 km

Level of difficulty: Moderately difficult

Auli is one of the most perfect winter destinations, away from rising mercury of the urban chaos. Trekking in Auli has the ideal mix of leisure and adventure. Such combination results from the lush green valley and snow-covered mountains that follow you throughout the trail.

Auli is one of the ideal places for a snow trekking adventure. It cultivates a sense of joy when you see snow all around you, much like a kid in a candy store. The sight of sunrise and sunset can turn anyone into a photographer.

As you complete the trek, a 360-degree view of Garhwal Himalayas and Nand Devi awaits you.

5) Kedarkantha Trek - Amidst Snow Covered Trails

Skyscape from Kedarkantha Trek, Uttarakhand

Best time to visit:
Winter - December-to-March.

Duration of Trek: 7 hours to complete the trek of 6 km

Level of difficulty: Easy-to-moderate

You might not be an expert trekker to take on hard terrain all the time, but if you want to be a part of such a pre trekking destination, the Kedarnatha trek is your place. The snow-covered trail shows you the path right to the summit. The surrounding view of the snow-covered Black peak, Bandarpoonch and Swargarohini mountain range will allure you to move forward.

The campsites are sporadic and consistent. Thus at any point in your journey, there is a campsite just a few kilometers away. These campsites would provide you the much-needed rest after long hours of trek and get your body ready for the upcoming trails.

Closing thoughts

Beginning the descent after soaking in the snow capped mountain views

In a nutshell, Uttarakhand has the trails to suit all forms of trekking enthusiasts. You just need to unpack apprehensions and dive into the adventure. You have parks, snow covered mountain ranges and rich flora and fauna reserves to keep you at your toes.

AUTHOR BIO: Amit is an avid traveler and passionate writer. His weekends are dedicated to travel and free time dedicated to writing for his blog www.realbharat.org. His passion for both these hobbies made him start realbharat.org. The blog is intended to bring out the real India and present it to the world!

All the photographs in this article are courtesy of the author.

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Wednesday, May 04, 2016

What adventures can you expect from long trek vacations?

For some people, the idea of a vacation goes no further than the idea of lounging on a beach or around a pool, soaking in the sunshine, turning off their cellphones, and taking things extremely easy. However, there are plenty of others who want their break to be an adventure that provides them with memories to last a lifetime, and wish to visit some of the most spectacular and impressive locations on the planet.

One of the main factors to take into account when seeking out this kind of trip is that often the most valued places to visit are some way off the beaten track, and that's why a long trek vacation is so popular these days. In fact, traditional “activity-based” getaways, such as a cruise or a driving vacation, are falling out of favor for many who can see both the health benefits and the added aspect of adventure that only a long trek can bring.

Off-road


Today, we are so used to being able to go everywhere by traveling in some kind of automobile, that the idea of places inaccessible to off-road four-wheel drive SUVs is often far from the mind of most people. If you take a minute to think about it though, the fact that many major attractions in the US have been developed to include easy access by road has sometimes devalued their original appeal.

By taking a walking or trekking vacation, you can go and explore places that vehicles simply can't reach. Some of the most impressive ruins and lost wonders of the world are deep in areas that can only be arrived at on foot, and this is especially true when you decide to visit destinations in countries such as China, where the Great Wall is a perfect example of a walking vacation attraction unlike any other.

Different environments


One of the biggest thrills of taking a vacation that has a sense of adventure to it is exploring environments that are alien to your everyday experience, whether that might be a desert landscape, jungle canopy, or mountain range. Obviously, this kind of getaway needs more preparation than the usual sun-seeking kind, where throwing some swimwear and a change of clothes into a bag can get you through. If you are taking a trek through a more challenging environment, you need to take into account different climates and weather patterns as well as the make-up of the landscape itself.

Clothing and equipment


For each type of adventure, you will need to be prepared with the right kit. For instance, for mountain treks or walking over rocky terrain, having the right kind of specialized footwear is essential. In hotter climates, walking any distance can cause dehydration problems, and so making sure your clothing is suitable and made from breathable fabrics is a key factor.

However, fitness levels are also important as stamina is needed for endurance, and a general healthy state is required so that you can enjoy the trek without feeling worse for wear. Of course, if you are carrying an injury or suffer from long-term muscle or joint problems, this is something you need to address. Fortunately, there are many ways in which you can prepare yourself by using specialized clothing that helps recovery and prevents further injury. You can check out the full specs of what is on offer, but specific items such as knee sleeves can really make a difference on a long walk.

Cheats and tricks


Of course, just because something is off-road doesn't mean that you can't use other tricks to get closer to your objective and cut miles from your trek. In some cases, using boats or other waterborne vehicles can cut traveling time and allow you to use your actual trekking miles to the best advantage. In some cases, a helicopter can give you access to the remotest areas and give you a head start. These aren't really cheating as they simply allow you to enjoy the unique aspects of your journey, while also adding a little extra experience into the overall mix.

Unique vacation


The wild and natural landscapes that you can discover on a trekking vacation can vary from dramatic coastal trails in temperate climates right through to a rainforest in monsoon season. The simple fact is that there is often no other way to fully experience these environments apart from by exploring slowly on foot. As long as you equip yourself with the correct outdoor kit, you can be sure that your trek will be safe and comfortable and you'll have a unique story to tell those who might not ever share those experiences.

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