Monsoon in the Western Ghats and waterfall holidays are synonymous. This wet season brings to life many waterfalls and streams and their tropical setting, lush environment and thunderous force simply absorbs all of your mental and physical stress. One such tropical waterfall is the Talasi Abbi falls that lies hidden in the Western Ghats between Mastikatte and Tirthahalli in the Malnad region of Karnataka. The place is so remote that you might lose your way a couple of times before you find the right path. And unlike the more popular waterfalls of the Western Ghats, there will be hardly any people here. At the maximum, there might be one or two groups in addition to yours. And unlike the bigger waterfalls, you can actually get close to this waterfall and enjoy a shower right under it.
To me, Talasi Abbi falls is the perfectly hidden waterfall holiday during the monsoons. The green environment, the pristine waterfall, the mountain stream, the sounds of nature, the short tropical trek, the steep climb down the slippery rocks, the water baby moments, the picnic brunch, the lack of crowds and all the other fun and frolic make it a dream come true. A waterfall holiday in the monsoons does not get any better. I would certainly recommend it to all waterfall lovers and monsoon chasers. My only request to you would be to carry every single bit of trash back with you to civilization.
Best season to visit:
Talasi Abbi Falls is best visited during the monsoons or right after as that is when the waterfall will be in full flow and the surrounding forest will be lush and refreshing.
Things to note:
1) The trail will be slippery, so do exercise caution, especially when climbing down the rocks from the top of the waterfall to the stream below
2) Leeches will be abundant during the monsoons. They are perfectly harmless, but if they bother you, do come prepared with leech socks or other preventive ideas
3) You will certainly want to bathe under the waterfall. Do come prepared with your swim wear, towels and dry clothes
4) There are hardly any places to find anything to eat or drink nearby. It would be best to carry your own picnic basket so that you can enjoy your picnic brunch in the lap of nature
How to reach there:
Talasi Falls lies on the Mastikatte – Tirthahalli road. As soon as you hit Yadur, you have to turn inside towards the waterfall. About 2 kms after the turning, there is a small parking spot where you can park your vehicle and proceed to cover the last 2 kms to the waterfall by foot. There is a good chance that you might not be able to find the parking location and the waterfall. It is best to check with locals on the right way. The trail from the parking lot will lead you to the top of the waterfall. You will have to climb down rocks to reach the bottom of the waterfall.
If you are traveling from the coast, you can take the Hulikal ghat, go all the up to Mastikatte and turn towards the Tirthahalli road. If you are are traveling from Sagara, you first reach Mastikatte and then get onto the Tirthahalli highway.
If you are traveling from Shimoga or Agumbe, you can turn at Tirthahalli and take the Mastikatte highway.
Nearest airport would be Mangalore international airport.
It is best to have your own mode of transportation.
Other nearby tourist attractions:
1) Kavaledurga Fort: A 9th century fort surrounded by the forests and mountains of the Western Ghats
2) Nagara Fort: A 16th century capital of the Keladi rulers
3) Varahi and Mani Reservoirs: Large water bodies in the Uttara Kannada region of Karnataka
4) Kunchikal Falls: One of the highest waterfalls of India
Monsoon in the Western Ghats is nothing short of a dream come true for nature, waterfall, rain. dirt biking and trekking lovers and photographers. The dark menacing clouds seem to be always forming some kind of drama in the sky. The surroundings are clean and always dressed in fresh green. The consistent pitter patter washes the air and the earth and leads to an abundance of growth from all quarters. In short, the entire view and experience is nothing short of magical.
As the monsoons have again picked up in the Western Ghats of Karnataka after a long gap, my heart yearns to be back in the Western Ghats to discover more dirt biking trails, to see more waterfalls in full flow and to enjoy the rains in one of the best places on our planet. Here are some monsoon scenes from my last monsoon trip to the Western Ghats a few weeks back. This trip was to the gorgeous countryside of Malnad. Hopefully, you will get a feel of the monsoon magic through this photo story. Can’t wait to return to the ghats!
Above photo: Beautiful monsoon atmosphere in a remote Malnad village with the Kaginahare forests in the background.
Above photo: The dirt trail that leads to Malnad home stay in Athihalli village that is tucked somewhere between Sakleshpur and Bisle Ghat.
Above photo: Muddy waters, fresh green and dark clouds – the three common spectacles of the monsoons in the Western Ghats.
Above photo:Mookanamane Falls, a hidden waterfall in the Malnad region of Karnataka.
Above photo: Indian villages and their surrounding farms are in the thick of action during the monsoons.
Above photo: Clouds form all kinds of drama on the way to the Yedekumeri railway bridge, one of the iconic railway bridges of India and part of Karnataka’s green route.
Above photo: The gorgeous Mallalli falls surrounded by lush forests and moisture laden monsoon clouds.
Above photo: The rolling hills of Kaginahare in the background and coffee and pepper plantations in the foreground.
Above photo: Dirt tracks turn to slush during the rains and offer the perfect platform for some dirt and slush biking. This particular trail leads to one of the prettiest treks of Karnataka.
It is one of India’s most iconic railway treks. It is one of the most scenic treks in the Western Ghats of Karnataka. Some people call it the world’s extreme railroad. Some refer to it as trekking paradise. Some have even dubbed this trek as the ‘Green Route’. Whatever its name might be, this mountain railway route is nothing short of a wonder. I am talking about the rail route from Sakleshpur to Kukke Subramanya that falls on the segment between Bangalore and Mangalore. Above photo courtesy: Pradeep H Gowda
Spanning 52 kms in the mountain ranges of the Western Ghats, this mountain rail route from Sakleshpur to Kukke Subramanya via Yedekumeri is made up of 57 tunnels, 109 bridges and an umpteen number of rivers and waterfalls. But, that is not it. Some of these tunnels and bridges are as long as 0.75 km and some of these bridges are 200 metres high. Mind boggling, right? Well, I forgot to mention the pristine forests that cover this entire belt and whose dense green cover gives this rail route its name, ‘The Green Route’.
15 years ago, I was privileged to have trekked on this iconic rail route. At that time, the railway tracks were undergoing modernization and hence the trains were not plying. It was a glorious, action packed and nerve wracking 2 days for the group, but all of us had a thrilling time in spite of the nagging pain in our calf muscles (due to walking on rail sleepers for 2 days). Today, this iconic railway trek is banned as trains ply on this route regularly. But, there is a way to catch a glimpse of its beauty, albeit through an alternate overland route.
Above photo courtesy: Pradeep H Gowda
This overland route is a combination of lush Malnad countryside, some off-roading (either by 4 wheel drive or two wheeler) and a bit of jungle trekking. On the road between Hongadahalla and Yedekumeri falls a dirt track that leads to the famous Yedekumeri bridge. This steep and narrow dirt track crosses plantations and forests to the railway track between tunnels 11 and 12. The tallest bridge of this rail route is here. Things are very different today compared to 15 years ago when there was no support and hand rails. Today, there are platforms and hand rails for safety. These platforms allow you to walk on the bridge easily while soaking in the lush green expanse and the roar of the water below.
Even though the walk is safe, trains can be expected at any time and that can cause some uncomfortable situations. Hence, always keep your ears open for track vibrations and train sounds. Do remember to carry a flashlight if you intend to explore the tunnels. And do remember that walking on this railway track is banned and hence use your common sense and discretion.
While this Yedekumeri forest trek takes you to tunnel 11, tunnel 12 and the tallest bridge, there is another route that allows you to experience a different side of the railway trek. This falls on the Hongadahalla – Marenahalli road route. As soon as you see the rail overbridge, climb to the railway tracks, walk left towards tunnel 1 and within 50 meters turn right at the opening to discover the hidden waterfall and river. A lot of people have lost their lives here. Hence, do exercise caution. Again, boards have been kept discouraging trespassers. Please use your judgement while going here.
These are 2 alternate ways to experience the green route as the original rail route is not possible any more. They are easier than the railway trek, but give you a different flavor of the terrain, the gorgeous Kaginahare forests, laidback Malnad countryside and a bit of the vast green expanse around the railway track. I am sure there are other hidden forest tracks leading to the railway track, but these are the ones that I came across. Full route details and words of wisdom have been mentioned below. Do give them a thorough read before embarking on this railway and forest trek.
If you are a motorcyclist, this route will give you a bit of off-roading, a bit of trekking and lots and lots of greenery. If you are a trekker, you will love walking on the plantation tracks, the forest trails and finally on the railway bridge itself. Whatever type of traveler you are and whichever route you opt for, you will definitely be blown away by the sheer prettiness f this terrain. The Yedakumari railway bridge is definitely the highlight and will give you a feeling of being lost in a green world!
How to reach here:
If arriving from Sakleshpur side…
Take Shirdi ghat road, turn left at Marenahalli, head straight on this rural highway crossing check dams and before turning left towards Hongadahalla, turn right towards Yedekumeri. About a kilometer further, there is a steep dirt track towards your right. Take this dirt track, ascend rapidly, keep to your left and stay on the steep descent till you reach the Yedekumeri bridge and the railway track. This location is right between tunnel 11 and 12 on the Donigal – Subramanya railway line.
If arriving from Kukke Subramanya, Arkalgud or Coorg side…
At Kudrasthe junction, take the road that leads to Sakleshpur via Bachalli. At Bachalli, turn left and head towards Athihally. At Athihally, turn right and continue towards Hongadahalla. At Hongadahalla, turn right and head straight towards Yedekumeri village. Ignore the road that turns right towards Marenahalli and Shirdi ghat highway. About 1 km after this diversion, turn right towards the steep dirt track. Take this dirt track, ascend rapidly, keep to your left and stay on the steep descent till you reach the Yedekumeri bridge and the railway track. This location is right between tunnel 11 and 12 on the Donigal – Subramanya railway line.
Usually, four wheel drives with experienced drivers can take you all the way to the track, but sometimes that might not be possible due to landslides. Two wheelers with good tyres, brakes and a good rider can also cover a lot of the distance if there are no landslides. No other vehicle will be able to go on this road. Do keep in mind that there is no place to reverse your vehicle till you reach the final parking area, so don’t be over enthusiastic and try to test the waters. The track is hard core dirt terrain even for proper off roaders. The rest of the way can be easily trekked.
Time taken for the trek (if vehicle is parked at Yedekumeri dirt track turning): The return journey should take you about 3 hours, including some time for relaxing and photography. The duration could be longer if you spend more time on the railway bridge.
To reach Tunnel 1 and the hidden waterfall behind it, head further on the Hongadahalla – Marenahalli road till you see the railway overbridge. Park your vehicle here and you will see Tunnel 1 to your left.
Where to stay:
If local homestays are your thing, there are a ton of options available nearby in villages such as Hongdhalla, Athihally and Vanagoor. If you prefer a bit of luxury, stay at Somwarpet or Sakleshpur. For uber luxury, head to the luxury resorts in Coorg or Chickmagalur.
Best season to visit:
All year round, but for its vibrant best, opt for the monsoon season.
Key things to keep in mind for this trek:
1) Railway treks where trains ply actively are banned in India. Hence, please use your discretion and common sense while embarking anywhere close to these railway tracks.
2) During the monsoons, leeches can be found here in plenty. Do prepare yourself for them.
3) Do carry a flashlight with you if you are planning on entering a tunnel.
4) Landslides are common here during the monsoon season. Do plan your itinerary accordingly.
5) Apart from BSNL, which is available in patches, there is no cell phone connectivity on this route. Hence, do keep someone appraised of your plan well in advance.
6) No food or water can be found on this trek. Do carry rations as needed.
7) People with fear of heights, please use your discretion prior to getting on top of the Yedekumeri bridge.
8) Elephants and other wild animals can be seen on this trail during the early hours of the morning and the late hours of the evening. It is alright to explore during the day.
Another waterfall for your upcoming monsoon holiday. It is neither a well known name nor is it the biggest, widest or tallest. It is just your simple and small waterfall that is surrounded by some of the most beautiful stretch of forests in the Western Ghats of Karnataka. But, what it lacks for in popularity, it makes for in pristine location and natural beauty.
Above photo courtesy: Pradeep H Gowda
I am referring to the Mookanamane waterfalls. Tucked deep into the countryside of Malnad and flanked by the gorgeous Bisle and Kaginahare forests on either side, this humble waterfall is a tiny bit of paradise that is as offbeat and hidden as it comes. A dirt trail, a short downhill trek and a steep riverside boulder climb lead you to this waterfall. When the water levels are low, you can easily go right under the waterfall for a relaxing waterfall shower, but during the monsoon months when the river is a raging torrent, you can sit on the many boulders near the waterfall and let the waterfall mist soak you completely. This is the kind of place to go for a full-on detox session amidst pristine nature and let the deafening roar of the waterfall stop the clutter in your head for a brief while.
If you like rural holidays, hidden destinations, offbeat trails, pristine nature and waterfalls, then this is your kind of place. A visit to Mookanamane Falls means packs water therapy, nature therapy, adventure and simply over indulgence of untouched nature.
A couple of words of advice:
1) Be safe as this terrain (the riverside boulders) are slippery and since it is a forest waterfall, water levels can increase suddenly. (It is best to stay away from the water when it is raining heavily)
2) A lot of people picnic here, which is fine, but they litter the place with their trash. Please carry back all your trash with you to the nearest trash dump and ensure that such pristine places remain clean for many years to come.
Above video courtesy: Pradeep H Gowda
How to reach here:
If coming from Sakleshpur, you could either take the Shirdi ghat road towards Mangalore, turn left at Marenahalli, turn left at Hongdhalla and finally turn left again towards the dirt trail leading to Mookanamane Falls. There is also an alternate route from Sakleshpur that connects Sakleshpur to Kudrasthe. On this route, you will have to turn right at Bachalli, turn right at Athihally and further turn right again at the dirt trail leading to the waterfall.
If coming from Bisle Ghat road, Somwarpet or Shanivarsanthe direction, turn right at Kudrasthe towards Sakleshpur. After a few kms, turn left at Bachalli and then turn right at Athihally before turning right yet again at the dirt trail leading to the waterfall.
Above photo courtesy: Pradeep H Gowda
Where to stay:
There are lots of homestays to stay in this region. My favorite homestay to stay here is Malnad homestay in the neighbouring village of Athihally.
Best season to visit:
The monsoons and the months right after the monsoons would be the ideal time to visit this waterfall.
Are you a foodie? Do most of your holidays and trips revolve around the local food experiences? Well, they certainly do for me! What better way to know a place and culture than by their local cuisine. I think food is an integral part of getting to know people and their culture and while it is extremely enlightening, it is at most times, a treat to the senses and to the palate. A beautiful combination indeed.
Every year during the monsoons, I make it a habit to visit the Western Ghats. While the consistent pitter patter, the lush green environment and the abundance of nature are the popular reasons for visiting the Western Ghats during the monsoons, I have a hidden reason. And that reason is delicious Malenadu food that is absolutely heavenly to gorge on during cold, damp and misty days.
One of my favorite places for such a rich gastronomic experience in Malenadu is a traditional home located somewhere between Bisle Ghat and Sakleshpur. They grow their own produce (vegetables, fruits, spices and greens) and even have their own poultry and cows for a healthy daily source of eggs and milk. And most importantly, the lady of this traditional home cooks an unbelievable array of lip smacking dishes that trigger happiness via each of our senses.
Be it the traditional Kadubu served with fresh coconut chutney, soft Akki roti served with kessa (a nutritious green that grows wild during the monsoons) and Kachampuli, Shavige with sweet coconut milk, young bamboo shoot salad, fermented jackfruit with coconut milk steamed (Halasanahannu hittu) and served with home made ghee, majjige huli, bas saru and rasam served with steaming hot fresh red rice, horse gram salad, fresh veggies with grated coconut or so many other dishes, this Malnad food experience keep getting richer and richer.
While the vegetarian certainly enjoys his vegetarian Malenadu fare, it is the meat lover who is absolutely spoilt for choice with an assortment of pork, chicken, fish and egg dishes. The Malnad pork like the one at Kodagu enjoys legendary status and is enjoyed during all important events and get togethers. And for evening snacks there is freshly roasted jack fruit seeds with piping hot coffee (with fresh cow milk and home grown coffee). Pure trip to heaven! What more does a foodie need?
Delicious Malnad food where the ingredients are all locally sourced along with the some of the best nature in Karnataka and my favorite season of the year makes the Malenadu region of Karnataka one of my favorite go-to destinations for a monsoon holiday. Do you have any such favorites where you go simply for the food?
